Burlap Bunting on a Brother Embroidery Machine: Two Foolproof Lettering Methods (Floating + Felt Appliqué)

If you’ve ever tried stitching letters on burlap, you already know the specific heartbreak it causes. The design looks crisp and perfect on your LCD screen, but the moment the needle starts moving, the stitches seem to vanish into the fabric’s open weave. The result isn’t a bold monogram; it reads like a "fuzzy ghost" of your intention.

You are not doing anything "wrong" technically. You are simply fighting physics. Burlap is not a unified fabric canvas; it is a grid of thick fibers and empty air. Without the right engineering, your thread has nowhere to land.

In this deep-dive guide, based on the project by Emily from Life Sew Savory, we are going to move beyond "hoping for the best." We will apply professional stabilization logic to create a seasonal bunting that looks store-bought, not homemade. We will analyze two distinct methods on a Brother touchscreen machine: a Direct-Stitch Method (best for texture) and a Felt Appliqué Method (best for readability).

Whether you call it a "bunting" or a "banner," mastering this texture is a rite of passage for the serious embroiderer.

The “Don’t Panic” Primer: Why Burlap Letters Sink (and How This Project Prevents It)

To conquer burlap, you must understand its structure. Unlike quilting cotton, which has a tight weave count, burlap is chemically and physically "springy." It has zero stability. When a standard satin stitch needle penetrates burlap at high speed (even at a moderate 600 SPM), the tension pulls the fibers apart. The thread doesn't sit on the fabric; it tunnels into the gaps.

The Engineering Fix: The Sandwich Theory Emily’s success in this project relies on a "Sandwich" technique that solves the two biggest problems of burlap:

1. The Sinking Problem: She adds a Clear Water-Soluble Topping (like Solvy). This creates a temporary "glass floor" for the stitches to rest on. The needle perforates the topping, and the thread locks against that film rather than sliding into the burlap abyss.
2. The Hoop Burn Problem: Burlap is notorious for leaving "hoop burn" (permanent crush marks) where the outer ring clamps down. The solution is Floating. Instead of clamping the thick fabric, we hoop the stabilizer and "stick" the fabric to it.

If you have heard advanced users discuss the floating embroidery hoop method, this is the textbook use case. You are using the hoop to hold the chemistry (the sticky stabilizer), while the fabric simply rides on top, stress-free.

The “Hidden” Prep That Saves the Whole Banner: Materials, Cutting, and a Stabilizer Decision Tree

In my 20 years of embroidery, I have seen more projects fail at the cutting table than at the machine. Burlap sheds dust that can clog your bobbin case, and it dulls needles faster than cotton.

The "Hidden" Consumables List (What beginners forget):

• Needles: Use a 75/11 Sharp or Embroidery needle. Avoid Ballpoint needles here; you want to pierce the thick jute fibers, not slide between them.
• Cleaning Brush: You will need to clean your bobbin area after this project. Burlap lint is abrasive.
• Precision Tweezers: For picking out topping remnants later.

From the video (Core Materials):

• Burlap bunting flags (precut or cut from yardage).
• Stabilizer (Base): Adhesive-backed Tear-away or Cut-away (often called "Sticky Stabilizer").
• Stabilizer (Top): Water-soluble topping (film type).
• Embroidery Thread: Polyester (40wt) recommended for sheen against the matte burlap.
• Felt Squares: High-quality wool-blend felt works best for appliqué.
• Scissors: Double-curved appliqué scissors are non-negotiable for Method 2.
• Brother embroidery machine with a 5x7 hoop.

Stabilizer Decision Tree: The "If This, Then That" Logic

Don't guess. Use this logic flow to determine your stack.

START: What is your desired visual outcome?

• PATH A: "I want the texture of the thread to be the main focus." (Direct Embroidery)
  • Risk: High stitch count sinking into gaps.
  • Solution: Sticky Stabilizer (Bottom) + Burlap + Water Soluble Topping (Top).
  • Note: Critical to use a denser satin stitch (0.4mm spacing) to ensure coverage.
• PATH B: "I want bold, solid letters that are easy to read from a distance." (Appliqué)
  • Risk: Burlap fraying inside the satin border.
  • Solution: Sticky Stabilizer (Bottom) + Burlap + Felt Overlay.
  • Note: The felt acts as its own stabilizer, bridging the gaps in the burlap. You generally do not need water-soluble topping here because the stitches land on the felt, not the burlap.

Prep Checklist: The Pre-Flight Safety Protocol

• Lint Check: Open your bobbin case. If there is dust from the last project, clean it now. Burlap adds lint; don't start with a dirty machine.
• Blade Check: Are your appliqué scissors sharp? If they "chew" the felt rather than slicing it, you risk pulling the fabric out of alignment.
• The "Rub" Test: Rub your burlap. If it sheds excessively, consider hitting it with a light coat of spray starch to bind the fibers temporarily.
• Layout Strategy: Mark the vertical center of your flag with a tailor's chalk or a water-soluble pen. Don't trust your eyes alone on a triangle shape.

Warning: Mechanical Safety
Burlap varies in thickness. If you encounter a thick "slub" (a knot in the weave) while stitching, your needle can deflect and break. Wear safety glasses or keep your face away from the machine during operation. Listen for a dull "thud-thud" sound—this indicates the needle is struggling to penetrate. If you hear this, slow your machine speed down to 400 SPM immediately.

Brother Touchscreen Setup That Prevents Crooked Words: Font Choice, Rotation, and Size Reality Checks

Digital setup is where you prevent physical failure. Emily demonstrates this on a Brother machine, which offers excellent on-screen editing.

1. Font Selection Psychology

For burlap, thickness is visible. A thin script font will get lost in the rough texture.

• Good Choice: Block fonts, Serif fonts with thick columns (like the "S" used in the video).
• Bad Choice: Delicate scripts, single-run sketches.

2. The Rotation and Sizing Dance

Emily rotates the text to 90 degrees to fit the vertical length of the flag.

• The Metric: In the video, the design size shows 88.8 mm x 36.9 mm.
• The Check: Measure your physical flag. Ensure you have at least a 1-inch margin from the top edge (where the twine casing will go) and the side edges. If the design hits the hem, you will break a needle.

3. Alignment Reality

Balancing a letter on a triangle is an optical illusion. If you center it mathematically, it often looks too low.

• Expert Tip: Bias the design slightly upwards (towards the wide part of the triangle) for better visual balance.

If you find yourself constantly fighting to get the flag straight on the sticky stabilizer, you are suffering from "alignment fatigue." A dedicated hooping station for brother embroidery machine can be a massive stress reliever here. It allows you to use a grid system to press the flag onto the hoop perfectly straight every time, removing the guesswork before you even get to the machine.

Setup Checklist (The "Green Light" Protocol)

• Hoop Check: Sticky stabilizer is hooped taut (drum-skin tight) paper-side up.
• Adhesive Check: Paper is peeled; adhesive is exposed. Touch it—it should be aggressively tacky.
• Fabric Placement: Burlap flag is pressed firmly onto the center. Rub it down with your palm to secure the bond.
• Topping: Water-soluble film is cut and within reach (for Method 1).
• Speed Limiter: Lower your max speed to 600 SPM. Burlap effectively adds friction; high speed causes drag and registration errors.

Method 1 — The “Puffy Letter” Win: Direct Embroidery on Burlap with Sticky Stabilizer + Water-Soluble Topping

This method relies on "loft." You want the thread to sit high.

Step 1: Hooping the "Canvas"

Hoop only the sticky stabilizer. Score the paper with a pin (don't slash the stabilizer) and peel it away.

• Why? This is the essence of a sticky hoop for embroidery machine workflow. It transforms your hoop from a clamp into a sticker.

Step 2: The Topping Hack

Place the water-soluble topping over the burlap.

• Sensory Anchor: When you place the topping, it should feel slippery. This lack of friction helps the embroidery foot glide over the rough burlap without snagging a stray jute fiber.

Step 3: The "Finger-Assist" Start

Emily gently holds the topping in place for the first few stitches.

• Technique: Keep your fingers entirely out of the "red zone" (the presser foot area). Use the eraser end of a pencil if you are nervous.
• The Goal: You are waiting for the "Tack Down" stitches—the first few movements that lock the layers together. Once you see the thread catch the topping, you can let go.

Checkpoint (Visual): Look closely at the satin stitch. Is it smooth and shiny? If it looks "split" or you can see the brown burlap through the white thread, your thread tension might be too high. Slightly lower the top tension (e.g., from 4.0 to 3.6) to allow the thread to relax over the texture.

Batching Intelligence

Emily stitches two flags in one hoop turn. This is smart manufacturing.

• The Bottleneck: The time it takes to un-hoop, peel the old stabilizer, re-hoop, and score is "dead time."
• The Upgrade: If you plan to sell these, dead time eats profit. This is the moment where professionals switch to a magnetic embroidery hoop. Unlike screw-tightened hoops which fatigue your wrists and take 60 seconds to reset, a magnetic hoop snaps shut in 2 seconds. It holds thick burlap instantly without the need for sticky stabilizer in some cases (though sticky is still safer for burlap).

Method 2 — The “Bold and Clean” Look: Felt Appliqué Letters with Placement Line + Satin Border

Appliqué is the "cheat code" for burlap. It covers the rough texture entirely with a smooth piece of felt.

Step 1: The Placement Line (The Map)

The machine stitches a single running stitch outline on the bare burlap.

• Success Metric: You should see a clear shape. If the thread sinks so deep you can't see it, your burlap is too loose. Stop and float a layer of scrap stabilizer under the hoop for support.

Step 2: The Felt Cover-Up

Place your felt square over the outline. Cover it generously—don't scrimp on margins.

• Tactile Tip: Lightly spray the back of the felt with temporary embroidery adhesive (like 505 Spray) before placing it. This prevents the felt from shifting under the pressure of the foot.

Step 3: The Tack-Down and Satin Border

The machine will sew another running stitch to lock the felt down, followed immediately (or after a stop command, depending on the file) by the satin border.

Checkpoint: Inspect the border. It should sit on top of the felt edges.

Step 4: The Surgical Trim

Remove the hoop from the machine but do not pop the fabric out. Leave it hooped.

• The Action: Use your double-curved scissors. Pull the excess felt slightly up and cut as close to the stitching as possible without cutting the thread.
• The "Angles": Angle your scissor blades away from the stitches.

Warning: The "Fatal Sniip"
Trimming is the most dangerous part of appliqué. One slip cuts the satin stitch, unraveling the whole design.
Rule: Never trim constantly. Snip, lift scissors, reposition, snip again. Do not "glide" the scissors like wrapping paper; felt is too thick and will pile up, causing a slip.

Why Appliqué Wins on Burlap

Physics. The felt acts as a shock absorber. The high-density satin stitches anchor into the felt, not the fragile burlap gaps. This method is structurally superior for items that will flap in the wind or be handled frequently.

Assembly That Doesn’t Sag: Sewing Burlap Flags to Twine

The embroidery is done. Now, the assembly. Using a standard sewing machine, Emily stitches the flags to jute twine.

The Spacing Habit: Lay the flags on the floor. Burlap flags are rarely identical in size. Visual spacing beats mathematical spacing here. If a flag is wonky, cheat the spacing slightly to make it look optical center.

Sewing Machine Settings:

• Stitch Length: Increase to 3.0mm or 3.5mm. A standard 2.5mm stitch is too short for heavy burlap plus twine; it will look messy and potentially jam.
• Foot: Use a zipper foot if your twine is very thick, so you can sew close to the cord without riding on top of it.

Troubleshooting Burlap Lettering: The "Doctor's Chart"

When things go wrong on burlap, they go wrong in specific ways. Here is your diagnostic chart.

The Magnet Warning

If you decide to upgrade to a magnetic hoop for brother to solve the "Hoop Pop" or "Hoop Burn" issues mentioned above, please note:

Warning: Magnetic Safety
Modern magnetic hoops use high-power Neodymium magnets.
1. Pinch Hazard: They snap together with enough force to bruise fingers. Handle with deliberate care.
2. Device Safety: Keep these magnets at least 6 inches away from computerized machine screens and never place them near pacemakers or insulin pumps.

The Upgrade Path: When Better Tools Equal Better Profit

The project shown by Emily is perfect for a home crafter making one banner. But if this triggers your entrepreneurial spirit and you plan to sell these on Etsy, you will hit a "pain wall." Specifically, wrist pain and time loss.

Here is how to judge when to upgrade your tools based on your volume:

Level 1: The Occasional Crafter (1-5 banners/year)

• Tool: Standard 5x7 Hoop + Sticky Stabilizer.
• Verdict: Stick with Emily's method. It’s cheap and effective.

Level 2: The "Side Hustle" (20 banners/month)

• Pain Point: "Hooping burn" on your hands; time wasted separating sticky paper.
• The Fix: Upgrade to a brother 5x7 magnetic hoop.
• Why: Magnetic hoops remove the need for sticky stabilizer in many cases (you can clamp the burlap directly without burn marks) and they are exponentially faster. You just "click and sew."

Level 3: The Production Shop (50+ banners/month)

• Pain Point: Thread changes. Single-needle machines require you to stop and swap thread for every color change (e.g., Red letter -> Green finishing stitch).
• The Fix: A Multi-Needle Machine.
• Why: SEWTECH-class multi-needle machines allow you to set up 10+ colors at once. You press "Start" and walk away to cut fabric while the machine does the work.

Before buying any upgrade, always check your machine model against the supported brother embroidery hoops sizes. Not every hoop fits every arm.

Operation Checklist: The Final Quality Assurance

• Topping Gone: All traces of the water-soluble film are removed (use a wet Q-tip for stubborn bits in corners).
• Felt Edge: Appliqué felt is trimmed smooth with no jagged "steps."
• Backside: Jump threads on the back are trimmed flush (burlap is see-through; messy backs show through to the front!).
• Drape Test: Hold the banner up. Does the burlap hang flat? If it curls, press it (with a pressing cloth) using steam to relax the fibers.

Burlap doesn't have to be a battle. By respecting the material properties and using the "Sandwich Method" or Appliqué, you turn a rough, cheap material into something offering premium rustic charm. Happy stitching

FAQ

• Q: Which embroidery needle type and size should a Brother touchscreen embroidery machine use for stitching letters on burlap bunting?
  A: Use a fresh 75/11 Sharp or Embroidery needle to pierce jute cleanly and reduce deflection.
  • Replace: Start with a new needle; burlap dulls needles faster than cotton.
  • Avoid: Skip ballpoint needles because they can slide between fibers instead of piercing them.
  • Clean: Brush out the bobbin area after stitching burlap because lint is abrasive.
  • Success check: The needle sounds crisp (not dull “thud-thud”), and stitches form without repeated deflections or breaks.
  • If it still fails… Slow the machine down to about 400 SPM when the fabric has thick slubs and try a fresh 80/12 if breakage continues.
• Q: How do I float burlap on sticky stabilizer in a Brother 5x7 hoop to prevent hoop burn and crushed marks?
  A: Hoop only adhesive-backed stabilizer, then press the burlap onto the exposed adhesive so the hoop never clamps the burlap.
  • Hoop: Tighten the stabilizer drum-skin tight with the paper side up.
  • Peel: Score the paper lightly with a pin, then peel to expose the adhesive.
  • Press: Place the burlap flag on the adhesive and rub firmly with your palm to bond it.
  • Success check: The burlap shows no hoop ring crush, and the flag does not creep when the embroidery starts.
  • If it still fails… Increase adhesion with fresh sticky stabilizer or additional temporary adhesive and reduce speed to around 500 SPM to cut drag.
• Q: What stabilizer stack should a Brother embroidery machine use to stop satin-stitch letters from “sinking” into burlap weave holes?
  A: For direct embroidery, use the sandwich: sticky stabilizer (bottom) + burlap + water-soluble topping (top).
  • Add: Place water-soluble film on top right before stitching to create a temporary “floor” for stitches.
  • Hold: Use finger-assist only for the first stitches until the tack-down catches (keep fingers out of the presser-foot zone).
  • Set: Use a denser satin stitch (about 0.4 mm spacing) so coverage stays solid on open weave.
  • Success check: The satin stitch looks smooth and shiny, and the burlap color does not show through the thread.
  • If it still fails… Double the topping layer for “ghost stitches,” and re-check top tension if the stitch still looks split.
• Q: How can Brother embroidery machine users tell if upper thread tension is too tight when embroidering white letters on burlap?
  A: If white bobbin thread shows on top or the satin stitch looks “split,” slightly loosen the upper tension.
  • Inspect: Pause and look for bobbin thread peeking on the surface of the letter.
  • Adjust: Lower top tension a small step (the blog example is moving from 4.0 to about 3.6).
  • Re-test: Stitch a small section again before committing to the full banner.
  • Success check: The top thread fully covers, with no bobbin thread visible on the front.
  • If it still fails… Confirm the topping is on (for direct embroidery) and slow the machine to reduce drag-related distortion.
• Q: How do I fix “registration loss” on a Brother embroidery machine when the burlap outline does not match the satin border?
  A: Increase fabric hold-down and reduce friction: stronger adhesion plus slower speed usually fixes misalignment on burlap.
  • Refresh: Use fresh sticky stabilizer and press the burlap down firmly; add more temporary spray adhesive if needed.
  • Slow: Drop speed to about 500 SPM to reduce drag and shifting.
  • Stabilize: If the burlap is very loose, add extra support (for appliqué, the felt layer helps bridge gaps).
  • Success check: The border lands evenly on the intended edge instead of drifting off the placement line.
  • If it still fails… Stop and re-hoop; continuing while drifting usually worsens the mismatch.
• Q: What safety steps should Brother embroidery machine users follow to prevent needle breakage when embroidering thick burlap slubs?
  A: Treat burlap as a hard, inconsistent material: slow down immediately when penetration sounds change and keep your face out of the needle path.
  • Listen: If you hear a dull “thud-thud,” the needle is struggling through a thick slub.
  • Slow: Reduce speed to about 400 SPM as soon as that sound appears.
  • Replace: Change to a fresh 75/11 or 80/12 needle if the current needle is dull.
  • Success check: The machine returns to a clean, consistent stitch sound without repeated impacts or breaks.
  • If it still fails… Reposition the design away from very thick weave knots or consider the felt appliqué method to reduce direct burlap penetration.
• Q: What magnetic hoop safety rules should Brother embroidery machine users follow when upgrading to a neodymium magnetic embroidery hoop for burlap?
  A: Handle magnetic hoops deliberately: they snap shut hard, and strong magnets must be kept away from sensitive medical devices and screens.
  • Protect: Keep fingers out of the closing path to avoid pinch injuries when the hoop snaps together.
  • Separate: Store and handle magnets away from computerized screens and keep them well away from pacemakers or insulin pumps.
  • Control: Set the hoop down before aligning fabric so the magnets don’t jump and shift the material unexpectedly.
  • Success check: The hoop closes without finger pinches, and the fabric remains aligned when the hoop is moved to the machine.
  • If it still fails… Go back to floating on sticky stabilizer for maximum control, especially on very open-weave burlap.