Table of Contents
Video reference: “Embroidery Forever Homework Never - Digitizing Part 3: The Needles” by Gentleman Crafter
A clean fill, a confident curve, and a stitch angle that looks like it was meant to be there—that’s what good digitizing delivers. In this guide, you’ll learn a precise, repeatable way to build a needle shape in Hatch Embroidery using Digitize Blocks and Tatami fill, then refine it so it sews cleanly.
What you’ll learn
- How to outline a needle element with Digitize Blocks in Hatch Embroidery
- When to use straight vs. rounded points—and why it matters
- How stitch angle follows block direction for a polished Tatami fill
- How to keep momentum with auto-movement and finish strong in reshape mode
Primer: What This Method Achieves—and When to Use It This method creates a filled needle element with a decorative Tatami texture. You build the shape from connected blocks; each block guides the stitch direction, so the fill flows naturally around curves and straightaways. It’s ideal when you want a clean, filled feature as part of a larger design.
Why it works
- Blocks carry direction: The angle of each block becomes the angle of the stitches.
- Two click types = two corner types: Left-click for straight/angular corners; right-click for rounded corners. Mix them to trace complex contours.
- Reshape after you digitize: Node edits update stitches live, so you can perfect spacing, corners, and flow.
Applies to
- Hatch Embroidery software (Digitize tab → Digitize Blocks)
- Manual digitizing workflows where accuracy and stitch flow matter
Constraint to keep in mind - You’ll work closely at high zoom (500% is used here) to place points deliberately. It takes time, but the result is worth it.
Pro tip If you also research hooping hardware for stitch-outs, you may encounter terms like embroidery hoops magnetic—use them later at the sewing stage, not during digitizing.
Prep: Files, Workspace, and View Start with your design image open in Hatch Embroidery. Hide any previously digitized layers so the needle outline is easy to see. Then zoom in for precision.
- Hide layers you won’t edit. This keeps the canvas uncluttered and reduces accidental selections.
- Zoom to 500%. This gives you a detailed view that makes accurate point placement easier. Many experts like 600%; choose what fits your display.
Quick check
- Only the target needle outline is visible.
- You can see the contour clearly at your chosen zoom level.
Prep checklist
- Original design image is open in Hatch
- Unneeded layers are hidden
- Zoom set to 500% (or your preferred high magnification)
- Mouse and canvas controls feel comfortable at this zoom
Watch out Avoid placing points at very shallow angles without zoom—tiny deviations become obvious once the fill is generated.
Setup: Tool Selection and Key Settings From the Digitize tab, choose Digitize Blocks. Set the block to create a fill (not an outline) so you generate a filled needle shape.
- Tool: Digitize Blocks
- Block output: Fill
- Stitch type: Tatami (decorative fill used here)
Why these choices
- Digitize Blocks gives you directional control: every block you add sets a local stitch angle.
- Tatami produces a textured, even fill that reads cleanly at typical sizes.
Quick check
- The Digitize Blocks tool appears active.
- Fill is selected for block output.
Setup checklist
- Digitize Blocks active
- Fill mode confirmed
- Tatami stitch selected
Pro tip If you are planning your downstream stitch-out with magnetic accessories, simply note your hoop choice now (e.g., magnetic hoop for brother or brother se1900 magnetic hoop) and set it up at the machine stage—not in the digitizing file.
Operation: Digitize the Needle in Six Passes Below is a clear sequence to create a polished needle element—from tip to shaft, to the final confirm and refine.
1) Begin the base and establish corner behavior
- Place your first point at the lower tip with a left-click to define a crisp, straight corner.
- Drag a line across the design and add points along the outline, alternating left-clicks (straight corners) and right-clicks (rounded corners) as the contour changes.
Why this matters - Straight vs. rounded corners shape how the fill will read around edges. A sharp V at the tip needs straight corners; curves near the eye or fanning sections benefit from rounded points.
Outcome to expect - A clean “V” foundation that will form the spear-like base of the needle.
Quick check
- Does the draft shape mirror the outline? Are straight corners used at sharp angles and rounded corners along curves?
2) Build connected blocks to control stitch flow
- Continue adding points as connected blocks along the lower curves.
- Keep the left/right click mix aligned with the geometry: angular at edges, rounded at curves.
Why this matters
- Each block you add carries a stitch angle. Well-placed blocks create an elegant flow in the final Tatami fill.
Watch out
- Uneven point spacing can cause wobbles in the fill edge. Keep distances balanced as you move.
3) Extend through the shaft (work faster on straightaways)
- Once on the straight shaft, fewer blocks are needed. Keep width even by placing mirrored points left and right.
- Maintain a steady rhythm of clicks to avoid unintentional wiggles.
Outcome to expect
- A uniform shaft with parallel sides and minimal blocks—fast and tidy.
4) Set Tatami fill and confirm visual direction - With Tatami selected, your connected blocks will render to a textured fill on confirmation.
- The stitch angle will follow the direction of your block sequence for a cohesive look.
Pro tip If you plan to hoop on specialty frames later (such as dime snap hoop or mighty hoop 5.5), keep consistent outer contours here; clean edges digitize best and also hoop more predictably.
5) Use auto-movement to stay in flow
- While zoomed in, move your cursor toward a screen edge and the canvas scrolls automatically.
- This saves time: you don’t need to exit the tool to pan the view.
Outcome to expect
- A continuous, uninterrupted digitizing pass—even across long sections of the shaft or into the upper curves.
6) Finalize the block - After placing your last point, press Enter to finalize. The Tatami fill appears, following the angles you established through block placement.
Outcome to expect - A fully filled needle with stitch direction bending smoothly around curves and tracking neatly along straightaways.
Operation checklist
- Lower tip defined with correct corner types
- Connected blocks placed with even spacing
- Shaft digitized with minimal, efficient blocks
- Auto-movement used to scroll during digitizing
- Enter pressed to generate the Tatami fill
Pro tip Keep a mental note of the sections where block direction changes; that’s where stitch angle transitions. Smooth transitions produce a polished appearance.
Quality Checks: What “Good” Looks Like Toggle TrueView to switch between thread simulation and wireframe. This makes it easier to evaluate both the stitch look and the underlying nodes.
What to verify
- Stitch flow: The Tatami rows follow your intended path; transitions are gentle, not abrupt.
- Edges: The silhouette is smooth with no bumps where you intended curves.
- Corners: Sharp where you chose straight clicks; rounded where you used right-clicks.
- Gaps: No unfilled slivers, especially at the lower tip or narrow transitions.
Quick check
- In wireframe, nodes align symmetrically across the shaft.
- In TrueView, textures are even and there’s no unexpected density build-up.
Watch out Over-editing nodes can distort the shape. Make small, deliberate movements and evaluate after each change.
Results & Handoff: Your Digitized Needle, Ready to Reuse When your needle looks right, it’s ready for reuse across the design. You can copy, paste, and resize to build matching elements consistently.
What you can do next
- Duplicate the needle to create a set of matched elements.
- Resize copies to fit different areas of the composition, refining node positions if proportions change.
Handoff tips
- Keep a saved version at this stage so you can revert if later edits over-tighten curves.
- Note stitch angles that work well; consistent angles across duplicates produce a harmonious fill pattern.
From the comments
- If you plan to stitch with magnetic accessories later, these are separate from digitizing decisions. Keep your file clean; choose hooping methods at the machine stage. Example terms you may encounter in research: hoop master embroidery hooping station and magnetic embroidery hoops.
Troubleshooting & Recovery Symptom: Jagged edges on curves
- Likely cause: Too many straight (left-click) points or uneven spacing.
- Fix: Replace a few straight corners with rounded (right-click) points; space nodes more evenly. Use reshape mode to adjust.
Symptom: Uneven shaft width
- Likely cause: Asymmetric node positions along the straight section.
- Fix: In reshape mode, mirror opposing nodes across the centerline and keep distances consistent.
Symptom: Gaps at the tip
- Likely cause: Nodes don’t fully close the shape at sharp angles.
- Fix: Toggle TrueView off, nudge the end nodes together in reshape mode until the fill closes.
Symptom: Abrupt stitch angle changes
- Likely cause: Block directions jump between segments.
- Fix: Add a transitional block or reposition nodes so the direction evolves gradually.
Quick diagnostic loop
- Toggle between TrueView and wireframe to isolate whether the problem is visual (stitch simulation) or structural (nodes/blocks).
- Undo stepwise if a recent change caused the artifact; re-apply edits slowly.
Recovery best practices
- Save incremental versions as you refine; it’s faster to branch than to unpick a complex set of changes.
- When experimenting, make a duplicate of the object and test edits on the copy.
Pro tip If your downstream project involves alternative hooping at the machine, note accessories you might use—e.g., magnetic embroidery hoops or magnetic hoops—but keep those decisions outside the digitizing file for clarity.
Appendix: Concept recap
- Digitize Blocks: Builds a filled shape from connected directional blocks.
- Left vs. right click: Straight corners (left) vs. rounded corners (right) for precise control.
- Tatami fill: Decorative fill with rows that follow your block angles.
- Auto-movement: Canvas scrolls when your cursor reaches the screen edge, keeping you in digitize mode.
- Reshape mode: Adjust nodes to correct edges, angles, and gaps; stitches update immediately.
Pro tip If you’re exploring machine-stage setups later, you may see references such as dime snap hoop or mighty hoop 5.5. Research and selection happen when you prepare to stitch; they don’t affect how you place nodes or blocks in this digitizing phase.
Note on brands and tools This workflow uses Hatch Embroidery by Wilcom. The same principles—thoughtful point placement, controlled stitch angles, and iterative refinement—hold across many digitizing tasks.