Fix “Goofy” Christmas Lettering in mySewnet & Premier+ 2: The -10 Gap Trick (Plus the Hidden Motif Capitals)

HOLIDAY LETTERING IS supposed to feel cozy—not like a ransom note that is slowly falling apart on your screen.

If you have ever typed “Merry Christmas” into mySewnet or Premier+ 2, hit Apply, and immediately felt a wave of confusion because the lowercase letters looked… goofy, disconnected, and amateurish, you are not alone. This is not a lack of talent on your part; it is a lack of calibration in the software’s default settings. Use the "Christmas 50–100mm" font incorrectly, and you get a mess. Use it correctly, and you get a bestseller.

In this guide, we are going to move beyond simple buttons. I will walk you through the exact workflow to fix the kerning using Letter Properties → Gap, but we will go further. We will apply 20 years of embroidery floor experience to ensure that when you take this design from the screen to a fluffy stocking or a knit shirt, it doesn't just look good—it survives the wash.

Find the “Christmas 50–100mm” font in mySewnet / Premier+ 2 without hunting for 10 minutes

Navigating embroidery software can feel like rummaging through a junk drawer if you don't use a systematic approach. Brenda’s first move is critical because it defies logic: this font is not in a seasonal folder. It is hidden under Fun.

Action Step:

1. Open the Letter tab in your software.
2. Open the Font Manager/List.
3. Scroll past the "Traditional" or "Script" categories.
4. Locate the Fun category.
5. Select Christmas 50–100mm.

This path applies to both mySewnet and Premier+ 2. The architecture is identical: you are selecting a digitized asset that has specific pre-programmed behaviors.

Pro Tip (The Asset Log): Stop relying on your memory. When you find a specialty font that works well for a specific substrate (like this one does for towels), simply write it down in a physical notebook or a digital note titled "Proven Fonts." Holiday fonts are rarely filed by season; they are filed by geometry (Decorative, Fun, Sans Serif).

The “Apply” reality check: type “Merry Christmas” and notice what’s actually wrong

Brenda types “Merry Christmas” to demonstrate the default behavior. Before you try to fix it, you must understand why it fails.

1. Default Size: It defaults to 50mm (approx. 2 inches) height.
2. Motif Behavior: The Capital letters are actually icons (more on this in the "Hidden Feature" section).

Field Test: Type "Merry Christmas" in the text box and hit Apply.

The Diagnosis: The lowercase letters look "darling" individually, but they are drifting apart. The word doesn't read as a cohesive unit. The Physics: Digitized script fonts often have "connectors" (entry and exit points). If the software's default spacing (kerning) is set to 0, it assumes standard block lettering rules. However, script requires the exit point of the "r" to physically overlap the entry point of the "y." Without this overlap, you get gaps that reveal the fabric underneath, breaking the illusion of handwriting.

The 20-second kerning fix: Letter Properties → Gap = -10 (and why negative matters)

This is the "Secret Sauce." We are going to force the software to violate its neutral spacing rules to accommodate the specific flow of this font.

The Execution Protocol:

1. Select: Click your text object (the lettering block) so the selection box appears.
2. Access: Right-click to open the context menu.
3. Edit: Choose Edit Lettering.
4. Locate: In the Letter Properties dialog, find the Gap value.
5. Adjust: Change the Gap value from 0 to -10.
6. Confirm: Click OK.

The Logic:

• Positive Numbers (+): Push letters apart (useful for bold block fonts on fluffy fabric to prevent clumping).
• Negative Numbers (-): Pull letters together (essential for scripts to create connection).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

Sensory Check (Visual): Watch the screen. You should see the letters "snap" together. The tail of one letter should visually merge into the body of the next. Experience Note: Brenda settles on -10. In my experience, -8 to -12 is the "Sweet Spot" for this specific font. Any tighter, and you risk bullet-proof density; any looser, and the illusion breaks.

Warning (Mechanical Safety): Do not aggressively set the gap to -20 or -30 just to be safe. If satin stitches overlap too heavily, the needle must penetrate the same point repeatedly. You will hear a loud, rhythmic "thumping" sound. This creates a "birdnest" underneath, can shred your thread, and even snap your needle, sending metal shards flying. Stay within the -5 to -15 range.

The “hidden feature” in this font: Caps Lock turns letters into Christmas motifs

Here is the functional surprise: This is a dual-mode font.

• Lowercase: Script lettering.
• Uppercase: A library of pre-digitized Christmas motifs.

How to audit the library:

1. Create a new lettering object (don't delete your work).
2. Engage Caps Lock on your keyboard.
3. Type: A B C D E F G.
4. Hit Apply.

You will see a Snowman (B), a Tree, Santa, and bells.

Commercial Application: If you run a monogram machine for business, these motifs are pure profit. You can combine a lowercase name with a single "Capital Letter" motif to create a custom logo without buying extra designs.

The “Hidden Prep” that prevents wasted thread: check size, stitch behavior, and fabric reality before you export

The software part is done, but 90% of embroidery failures happen after the file leaves the computer. Before you walk to your machine, you must run a "Pre-Flight Check."

Phase 1: Prep Checklist (The Digital-to-Physical Bridge)

• Font Verification: Ensure you selected Christmas 50–100mm (Fun Category). Only this font behaves this way.
• Size Check: Is the text roughly 50mm tall? If you scale this font down to 20mm, the satin columns will become too thin and your thread will break.
• Gap Confirmation: Visually inspect the connection points. Do they touch?
• Consumable Check: Do you have the right needle?
  • Knits: Ballpoint 75/11.
  • Wovens: Universal/Sharp 75/11.
• Hidden Consumables: Do you have temporary spray adhesive (like 505) or a water-soluble pen for marking placement? These are often forgotten until the moment you need them.

Why the Gap tweak works (and how to avoid the next spacing surprise)

Why do we need -10? It comes down to Push and Pull Compensation.

When a machine makes a stitch, it tightens the thread. This tension physically pulls the fabric in (narrowing the letter) and pushes the fabric out at the open ends.

• On Screen: A gap of 0mm looks like the letters are touching.
• On Fabric: That 0mm gap opens up into a 1mm gap because the stitches pull away from each other.

By setting the gap to -10, you are pre-compensating for the physics of the thread tension. You are overlapping them on screen so they merely touch on the fabric.

Fabric-to-stabilizer decision tree for blankets and shirts

Brenda mentions blankets and shirts. These are two enemy territories in embroidery. A software fix is useless if your stabilization fails. Use this logic tree to make the right choice.

Decision Tree: Stabilizer & Topper Selection

1. Are you stitching on a T-shirt or Sweatshirt (Stretchy Knit)?
   • Yes: You MUST use Cutaway Stabilizer. No exceptions. Tearaway will disintegrate during the stitch-out, causing the letters to separate and gap again.
   • Expert Tip: Don't pull the fabric tight in the hoop; float it or hoop continuously without stretching using standard machine embroidery hoops.
2. Are you stitching on a Fluffy Blanket or Towel (High Pile)?
   • Yes: You need a Water Soluble Topper (Solvy) on top. Without it, your beautiful "Gap -10" lettering will sink into the fluff and disappear.
   • Backing: Use Cutaway or tearaway depending on the blanket's stretch.
3. Are you stitching on a Woven Shirt or Cotton Apron (No Stretch)?
   • Yes: Tearaway Stabilizer is acceptable here.

Hooping reality: your software fix won’t matter if the fabric shifts mid-stitch

You have fixed the gap. You have chosen the stabilizer. But if your hooping is weak, the fabric will "flag" (bounce up and down), causing registration errors.

The Hoop Burn Problem: Holiday items like velvet stockings or plush throws are notoriously difficult. If you squeeze them into standard plastic hoops, you risk "hoop burn"—a permanent crush mark that ruins the gift. However, if you hoop too loosely, the design shifts.

The Solution Ladder:

• Level 1 (Skill): Wrap your inner hoop ring with cohesive tape (Vet wrap) to increase grip without increasing pressure.
• Level 2 (Tool): Upgrade to magnetic embroidery hoops. These use magnetic force rather than friction to hold the fabric. Ideally suited for thick holiday items, they clamp down firmly on plush fabrics without leaving the dreaded "burn ring."

Warning (Magnet Safety): High-quality magnetic hoops use industrial Neodymium magnets. They snap shut with immense force. Keep fingers clear of the clamping zone. If you have a pacemaker, maintain the safe distance recommended by your doctor and the manufacturer.

Setup that saves your wrists (and your schedule) when holiday orders pile up

If you are doing one shirt, you can wing it. If you are doing 20 shirts for a family reunion, you need a workflow. Fatigue leads to crooked hooping.

High-Volume Setup Strategy: To maintain that perfect "-10 Gap" alignment across 20 garments, you cannot eyeball it.

• The Station: Using a hooping station for embroidery ensures that every shirt is hooped at the exact same chest position. It removes the variable of "human guessing."
• The Speed Combo: Professional shops combine the station with a magnetic hooping station setup. The magnets allow you to slap the hoop on effectively in under 10 seconds per shirt, reducing wrist strain and doubling your output speed.

Phase 2: Setup Checklist (Machine Ready)

• Bobbin Check: Is the bobbin full? Running out of bobbin thread in the middle of a cursive font is a nightmare to fix seamlessly.
• Needle Freshness: If you can't remember when you last changed it, change it now. A burred needle will snag your knit fabric.
• Hoop Logic: Are you using an embroidery sleeve hoop for small items like baby onesies or cuffs? Using a hoop that is too large for the design causes excess vibration and poor stitch quality.

Troubleshooting the “goofy lowercase” problem like a pro (symptom → cause → fix)

Even with the best prep, things go wrong. Here is your rapid response guide.

The “Upgrade” mindset: when a simple software tip turns into real production speed

The gap setting of -10 is a micro-optimization. But hooping for embroidery machine success is a macro-optimization.

If you find yourself constantly fighting these battles—struggling to hoop thick items, breaking needles on dense fonts, or spending hours changing thread colors for these multi-colored holiday motifs—it might be time to audit your equipment.

• The Hobby Path: Focus on mastering software tweaks and single-needle patience.
• The Production Path: If you are producing 50+ items, the bottleneck isn't software; it's hardware. Moving to a multi-needle machine allows you to keep all your holiday colors (Red, Green, Gold, White) threaded simultaneously, while commercial-grade magnetic embroidery hoops handle the thickest stockings with zero effort.

Phase 3: Operation Checklist (The last 60 seconds)

Before you press the green button:

1. Re-Verify: Did you set the Gap to -10?
2. Visual Scan: Is the hoop straight? (Trust your eyes, not just the grid).
3. Trace: Run the trace/basting function on your machine to ensure the needle won't hit the hoop frame.
4. Listen: The first 100 stitches should sound like a rhythmic hum. If you hear a "thud-thud-thud," STOP. You are hitting something hard or your density is too high.

Now, go stitch that perfect "Merry Christmas."

FAQ

• Q: How do I fix goofy, disconnected lowercase script in mySewnet or Premier+ 2 “Christmas 50–100mm” lettering after clicking Apply?
  A: Set the lettering block Letter Properties → Gap from 0 to -10 to pull script connectors together.
  • Select the text object (the lettering block) so the selection box shows.
  • Right-click → Edit Lettering → find Letter Properties → change Gap to -10 → OK.
  • Success check: on screen, letters should “snap” together and overlap slightly at connector points (no visible white space between strokes).
  • If it still fails: try -8 to -12 for this font and re-check that the font is exactly Christmas 50–100mm (not a similar-looking one).
• Q: What Gap value range is safe in mySewnet or Premier+ 2 for the “Christmas 50–100mm” script so the design does not get too dense or break needles?
  A: Use -5 to -15 as the safe range, with -8 to -12 often working well; avoid extreme values like -20 or -30.
  • Start at -10, then adjust in small steps if letters still separate or bunch up.
  • Stop tightening the gap if satin stitches begin stacking heavily on top of each other.
  • Success check: the first stitches should sound like a smooth, rhythmic hum—not a hard “thud-thud” as the needle repeatedly hits dense stacks.
  • If it still fails: reduce the negative gap (example: move from -12 to -8) and re-check hoop stability to rule out fabric shifting.
• Q: Why does the “Christmas 50–100mm” font in mySewnet or Premier+ 2 stitch a Snowman when I typed the letter “B”?
  A: Caps Lock turns uppercase letters into Christmas motifs, so “B” can stitch as a Snowman instead of a letter.
  • Turn Caps Lock OFF and re-type the text in lowercase for script lettering.
  • If you want to preview motifs, create a new lettering object, turn Caps Lock ON, and type A B C D E F G, then Apply.
  • Success check: lowercase words display as connected script; uppercase characters display as holiday icons/motifs.
  • If it still fails: delete the affected lettering object and re-create it to ensure no mixed-case characters were carried over.
• Q: Why do gaps appear between “Merry Christmas” letters after stitching, even though mySewnet or Premier+ 2 shows the letters touching on screen?
  A: This is commonly stabilizer/fabric behavior; for stretchy knits you typically need cutaway stabilizer, and you still need a negative Gap to pre-compensate.
  • Switch to cutaway stabilizer when stitching on T-shirts/sweatshirts (stretchy knits).
  • Confirm the lettering Gap is negative (a common starting point is -10 for this font).
  • Avoid stretching the knit while hooping; keep it stable without over-tensioning.
  • Success check: on fabric, connector points should meet without revealing fabric lines between letters after the stitch-out.
  • If it still fails: add a topper for pile fabrics or reassess hooping strength to prevent fabric “flagging” during stitching.
• Q: What stabilizer and topper should I use for “Christmas 50–100mm” script on a fluffy towel or blanket so the lettering does not sink into the pile?
  A: Use a water-soluble topper on top; without it, the script can sink and lose readability.
  • Place water-soluble topper (Solvy-type) over the pile before stitching.
  • Choose backing based on the blanket’s stretch (cutaway or tearaway depending on how stable it is).
  • Keep lettering near its intended size (around 50mm); scaling too small can create stitch issues.
  • Success check: after stitching, the script edges remain visible and not swallowed by fluff; letters read cleanly at normal viewing distance.
  • If it still fails: add better hoop control (improve grip or move to a magnetic hoop) to reduce movement that pushes stitches into the pile.
• Q: What pre-flight checklist should I run before exporting mySewnet or Premier+ 2 “Christmas 50–100mm” lettering to avoid wasted thread and ruined garments?
  A: Do a quick digital-to-physical check: font, size, Gap, needle choice, and the small consumables people forget.
  • Verify the font is Christmas 50–100mm and the lettering is roughly 50mm tall (avoid shrinking to ~20mm where columns get too thin).
  • Confirm Gap is negative and connectors visually overlap.
  • Match needle to fabric: ballpoint 75/11 for knits; universal/sharp 75/11 for wovens.
  • Stage “hidden consumables” like temporary spray adhesive (e.g., 505-type) or a water-soluble marking pen for placement.
  • Success check: you can walk to the machine without needing to stop for missing needles, topper, marking, or redoing spacing.
  • If it still fails: re-open the lettering properties and re-check that the Gap change was applied to the correct text object (not a different layer).
• Q: How can I prevent hoop burn on velvet stockings or plush holiday projects while still keeping the fabric from shifting during embroidery?
  A: Increase holding power without crushing the fabric: first improve hoop grip, then consider magnetic hoops for thick plush items.
  • Wrap the inner hoop ring with cohesive tape (Vet wrap) to increase grip without over-tightening.
  • Avoid “over-squeezing” thick pile items in standard hoops where crush marks can become permanent.
  • Consider magnetic hoops to clamp thick fabrics firmly with less hoop-burn risk than friction-based tightening.
  • Success check: the fabric stays flat and stable during stitching (no flagging), and there is no permanent burn ring after unhooping.
  • If it still fails: move up the workflow ladder—skill adjustment (grip/tape) → tool upgrade (magnetic hoop) → production upgrade (multi-needle workflow if volume is high).
• Q: What safety steps should I follow to avoid needle breaks and finger injuries when dense lettering overlaps or when using magnetic embroidery hoops?
  A: Don’t force extreme overlap and keep hands clear—both needle impacts and strong magnets can cause sudden, dangerous snaps.
  • Avoid setting Gap aggressively (don’t “crank” it to -20/-30); overly dense stacks can cause loud thumping, thread shredding, birdnesting, and needle snaps.
  • Stop immediately if the first stitches sound like hard, rhythmic “thud-thud-thud” instead of a smooth hum.
  • Keep fingers out of the magnetic hoop clamping zone; magnets can snap shut with significant force.
  • Success check: the machine runs smoothly with normal stitch sound, thread feeds cleanly, and hoop handling feels controlled (no surprise snap-backs).
  • If it still fails: reduce overlap (less negative Gap) and re-run a trace/basting check to ensure the needle path is safe and not colliding with the hoop frame.