Table of Contents
Watch the video: “How to Line a Tote Bag” by Kimberbell
Give your tote a glow-up. This method lines a Kimberbell tote blank and boxes the corners for more depth, then finishes with a slim, decorative band of lining at the top edge. It’s tidy, sturdy, and surprisingly quick.
What you’ll learn
- How to measure your tote blank and cut lining to fit
- The simple, repeatable way to box corners at 2 inches
- How to leave and close the lining opening for turning
- A handle-friendly top finish that avoids bulk and looks polished
Getting Started: Materials & Measurements
Understanding Kimberbell Tote Blanks A Kimberbell tote blank arrives flat with open sides and handles at each short end. The serged side edges make it easy to embellish first, then fold and sew. This tutorial focuses on lining and boxing corners for a more dimensional base.
Pro tip: Always measure your specific tote. Dimensions can vary slightly. In the video, the tote measures about 36 inches long and 21 inches wide when laid flat.
Measuring Your Tote and Cutting the Lining
- Measure the tote length and width.
- Cut one piece of lining fabric to match those measurements (36 inches x 21 inches in the video example).
- Keep the lining folded lengthwise, then cut along the fold to create two pieces that are each about 18 inches x 21 inches.
Quick check: Do your two lining panels match in size? Identical pieces set you up for a smooth assembly later.
Watch out: If your fabric has a print, note the direction before you cut. Even with non-directional prints, aim for clean, straight cuts for easy seaming.
From the comments: One viewer asked why not keep the bottom fold on a non-directional lining and put the opening on a side seam. In this method, the bottom opening is used for turning the whole bag right side out after the lining is attached—which keeps the top edge uninterrupted and neat.
Constructing the Tote Bag
Sewing the Side Seams Fold the tote with right sides together so handles align. Clip or pin each side, then stitch both side seams with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. This forms the main tote body quickly and cleanly.
Pro tip: Keep your seam allowance consistent at 1/4 inch for every seam in this project. It helps the tote and lining nest perfectly later.
Mastering Boxed Corners for Your Tote Boxed corners add the depth that gives your tote real-life volume. To box each bottom corner:
- Pinch the corner open so the side seam runs straight down the center of a triangle.
- Measure 2 inches from the point along that center line, mark a straight line across, and stitch on the mark.
- Trim about 1/4 inch beyond the stitch line. Repeat on the other side.
Watch out: Keep the seam truly centered in the triangle before you mark. If the seam drifts, one side can end up deeper than the other.
Preparing Your Lining
Sewing Lining Panels (Remembering the Opening!) Place the two lining panels right sides together. Clip the sides and most of the bottom, but mark a turning gap of about 10 inches centered on the bottom edge. Stitch with a 1/4 inch seam allowance, leaving that gap unsewn.
Quick check: Confirm two things before you move on—side seams sewn, bottom gap open. You’ll need that opening to turn the tote later.
From the comments: Another viewer asked whether, if quilting in the hoop, a separate lining layer is necessary or if stabilizer alone would work. A reply noted stabilizer may be fine for quilting but warned that seams could show if you skip a separate lining layer. The video doesn’t specify this scenario beyond today’s lining method.
Boxing Lining Corners Repeat the exact boxing process used for the tote: - Pinch each lining corner, center the seam, mark 2 inches from the point, stitch across, and trim 1/4 inch beyond the seam. This ensures your lining base matches the tote’s base and nests neatly.
Bringing It All Together: Attaching the Lining
Securing Handles and Assembling Layers Turn the tote right side out. Clip both handles down toward the exterior so they won’t be caught in the seam. Keep the lining inside out, then place the tote inside the lining so right sides are together. Align side seams, add clips around the top edge, and make sure handles stay tucked.
Pro tip: Place extra clips around the handle areas to keep layers stacked and out of the needle path. If your machine struggles feeding multiple layers evenly, a walking foot can help.
Sewing the Top Edge Sew a 1/4 inch seam around the entire top edge to join tote and lining. Slow down over thicker handle sections to protect your needle. If your machine has adjustable speed, reduce it for those areas.
The Grand Finale: Finishing Touches
Closing the Lining Opening Pull the tote through the 10-inch opening at the lining bottom to turn everything right side out. Tuck in the raw edges of the opening by about 1/4 inch and stitch the gap closed—by machine for speed or by hand if you prefer an invisible finish.
Adding a Decorative Topstitch Nest the lining into the tote and smooth the top edge. Rather than rolling the tote edge to meet the lining, let the lining naturally roll over the tote edge by about 1/4 inch. This avoids bulky handle seams at the top and creates a charming, intentional trim. Clip all the way around, then topstitch—either stitch-in-the-ditch just below the lining edge or run a visible straight line that secures the roll.
Watch out: Keep the rolled lining consistent as you go—watch the edge, not just the needle. Slow down over the handles, and make sure they’re oriented downward during stitching so they’ll flip up naturally when you carry the bag.
Quick check: After topstitching, confirm three things—no puckers, even roll all around, and no handles accidentally caught in the seam.
Your Beautifully Lined Tote Bag
Tips for Care and Personalization
- Pressing: The video doesn’t specify pressing steps throughout, but a quick press after boxing corners and before topstitching can sharpen edges.
- Thread: Any coordinating thread works; the video doesn’t specify a type or color.
- Embellishment: The Kimberbell tote blank is designed so you can embellish the flat panel first (embroidery, painting, quilting), then finish with today’s lining technique.
From the comments
- “Thanks for the really excellent and quick tutorial!” and “You made that look easy!” were common sentiments.
- One viewer loved a zipper bag project with “All the Things” embroidery—proof that this method pairs nicely with decorative details.
- On the lining gap question: keeping the opening at the bottom is part of this turning method and keeps the top uninterrupted.
- On quilting in the hoop: Using stabilizer alone might leave seams visible; adding a lining layer can conceal them. The video focuses on the lining method shown today.
Troubleshooting & FAQs
- My corners aren’t symmetrical.
- Recheck that the side seam is centered in the triangle before marking the 2-inch line.
- I can’t sew smoothly over the handle areas.
- Slow down over bulky sections. If needed, use a walking foot; the video notes slowing speed as sufficient here.
- My top edge looks bulky.
- Don’t roll the tote edge over the lining. Let the lining roll over the tote instead. This reduces thickness at the handle joins and prevents broken needles.
Gear note: If you embellish your tote panel with machine embroidery before assembly, choose hooping tools that fit your machine. For example, many embroiderers who use Baby Lock machines like exploring accessories such as baby lock magnetic hoop for easier hooping across bulky bag panels before sewing. Choose what’s compatible with your model and embroidery field.
If you want added grip while hooping thicker fabrics, some stitchers prefer robust magnetic options. Depending on what your machine supports, you may see setups marketed as magnetic embroidery hoops for babylock or even larger-format choices like babylock magnetic hoops to help keep flat tote panels stable while stitching designs.
When quilting the bag front in the hoop (as seen on a sample in the video), stability matters. Some crafters favor framed systems—names vary by brand—so check compatibility before you invest. For instance, Baby Lock owners often compare solutions labeled magnetic hoops for babylock embroidery machines for easier placement and re-hooping between quilting sections.
If you’re working on multi-hoop designs or wide motifs on a flat tote panel, you may also hear recommendations for magnetic embroidery hoops in general, which can help when repositioning layers. As always, make sure your choice fits your machine’s specific model and safe operating guidelines.
Enthusiasts who regularly embroider bags and home décor sometimes upgrade to stiffer, high-grip systems. In user groups, you’ll see mentions like mighty hoops or brand-specific accessories. The key is simply that your hooping method should keep the tote front flat and secure before you sew the side seams and proceed with the lining.
If you like hoop-swapping speed, you might run across names such as dime snap hoop among compatible accessory ecosystems. Whether that’s right for you depends on your machine and the size and placement of your tote panel designs.
Finally, some bag-makers who stitch large continuous patterns on totes ask about oversized options. If your machine supports it, exploring magnetic embroidery frames that match your embroidery field can help align motifs across bigger areas before you construct the bag.
Project recap
- Cut two lining panels to match your measured tote size.
- Sew tote side seams and box corners at 2 inches; trim.
- Sew lining with a 10-inch bottom gap; box lining corners to match; trim.
- Clip handles down, nest tote into lining right sides together, and sew the top edge with a 1/4 inch seam.
- Turn through the lining gap, close the gap, and topstitch with a slim lining roll at the top.
That’s it—your tote is lined, structured, and ready to carry. Keep this method handy whenever you want a clean finish without bulk at the handles.