Mastering Embird Studio’s Convert Menu: Turn One Shape into Outlines, Satin Columns, Fills, and Appliqué—Fast

Mastering Curves & Object Conversions in Embird: From Digital Design to Flawless Stitch-Out

If you have ever attempted to draw a smooth circle in Embird Studio only to have it stitch out like a jagged stop sign, you know the frustration. The screen shows you one thing, but the machine delivers another. This disconnect usually happens because you are performing the "correct" mechanical clicks, but the software—and physics—are ignoring your intent.

Digitizing is not just about drawing lines; it is about engineering a path for a needle moving at 800 stitches per minute (SPM). In this whitepaper-style guide, we will break down a specific workflow: creating a shape, cutting an opening, and using the Convert menu to generate multiple stitch types (Outlines, Satins, Fills, Appliqué) from a single base object.

We will move beyond simple software buttons and discuss the stitch physics—why curves fail, how density affects pull compensation, and why your choice of hooping tools matters just as much as your node placement.

Primer: The "Donut" Workflow

We will build a "donut" (a fill object with a hole) and convert it into four distinct production-ready elements without redrawing a single line. This method is the standard for high-efficiency digitizing because it guarantees that your outlines and fills align perfectly—something that is nearly impossible to do by hand-tracing.

You will create:

1. The Base: A complex fill with a void.
2. The Spine: An outline derived from the fill (vital for placement stitches).
3. The Border: A satin column derived from the fill (vital for cleanup).
4. The Center: A new fill derived from the negative space.

The "Curve" Setting: The Difference Between Art and Geometry

When creating your base shape, a common novice mistake is ignoring the point structure. If your nodes create straight lines instead of arcs, the machine needle has to come to a hard stop at every corner, creating a jerky, loud stitch-out that lacks fluidity.

The fix is often a single checkbox: Curves.

Why this matters for the physical stitch-out: When a machine transitions through a true curve, it maintains a consistent speed (momentum). When it hits a "straight-segment" curve, it accelerates and decelerates rapidly.

• Sensory Check: Listen to your machine. A rhythmic hum means good curves. A jagged rattle-gun sound usually indicates poor node structure or stitch lengths that are too short (under 1.0mm), causing needle heat and thread breaks.

Warning: Mechanical Safety. When testing new curve densities, keep your hands clear of the needle bar. If a design has high-density nodes (too many points), the machine may slow down but the needle deflection risk increases. Never reach into the sewing field while the machine is active—a 1000 SPM needle strike can cause severe injury.

Creating Basic Shapes and Cutouts

Step 1 — Constructing the Base Geometry

We start with the Point Tool. The goal is a rough circle. Do not obsess over perfection here; in embroidery, "perfect circles" on screen often turn into ovals on fabric due to the "push and pull" of the thread.

Action:

1. Select the Point Tool.
2. Ensure the Curves checkbox is ticked.
3. Plot points clockwise. Visualize a clock face: click at 12, 3, 6, and 9.
4. Right-click and select Finish Object to close the loop.
5. Generate Stitches (Ctrl+G usually) to render the fill.

Checkpoints:

• Visual: The edge should look smooth, not polygonal.
• Data Check: Check your stitch density. For standard cotton, a density of 4.0 to 4.5 lines/mm is the "sweet spot." Anything tighter (e.g., 5.0+) may cause bulletproof stiff patches; anything looser (e.g., 3.0) may show the fabric through the thread.

Step 2 — Cutting the "Donut" Hole

We use the Hole Cutting Tool to define negative space. This is critical for reducing stitch count and preventing "bulletproof" embroidery patches that feel heavy on the chest.

Action:

1. Select the Fill object.
2. Select the Hole Cutting Tool.
3. Plot points inside the fill.
4. Press Enter to finalize.

Checkpoints:

• Visual: You should see the grid background through the center of the shape.
• Logical: Ensure the hole is at least 3-4mm away from the outer edge to maintain structural integrity of the fill.

Method 1: Converting Fill to Running Stitch Outlines

Step 3 — Generating a Placement Line

Most beginners manually trace an outline around their fill. This is dangerous because human hands wobble. By using Convert > Create Outline from Fill, you generate a mathematically perfect boundary.

Move this outline aside to inspect it.

Professional Application: This outline is rarely used as a final decorative stitch because it is too thin (single run). However, it is essential for:

1. Placement Lines: To show you where to place appliqué fabric.
2. Underlay: To tack down stabilizer before the main fill starts.

Expert Insight: If you plan to use this on a stretchy fabric (like a polo shirt), a single outline will distort. You must use a stable hooping method. This is where professional tools like a hooping station for machine embroidery become vital—they ensure the fabric is pre-tensioned correctly so the mathematically perfect outline matches the fabric reality.

Method 2: Transforming Fills into Satin Columns

Step 4 — Creating the Satin Border

A fill object is rows of stitching; a column (Satin) object is a zig-zag that covers a border. Converting a fill to a column allows you to create a clean, raised edge.

Action:

1. Select the original donut.
2. Go to Convert > Create Column from Fill.
3. Important: You must click Generate Stitches to see the result.

The Physics of Satin Columns: Satin stitches have a strong "pull" effect. They will be narrower on the fabric than they are on the screen.

• Experience Value: If your screen shows a 4.0mm width, the sew-out might be 3.5mm.
• Compensation: You often need to add "Pull Compensation" (usually 0.2mm - 0.4mm) in the settings to counteract this.

Checkpoints:

• Tactile: A good satin stitch should feel raised and smooth, not flat or loopy.
• Visual: Ensure the needle points are not penetrating the same hole repeatedly (this causes holes in the fabric).

Method 3: Automatically Filling Openings

Step 5 — Inverting the Negative Space

Sometimes you need to stitch the "hole." Instead of drawing a new circle, use Convert > Create Fill from Opening.

Use Case: This is perfect for multi-color logos. You sew the outer donut in Blue, then sew the converted center fill in White. Because they share the exact same boundary line mathematically, you reduce the risk of annoying gaps (white space) between the colors—provided your stabilization is solid.

Advanced Tip: Converting to Applique

Step 6 — The Appliqué Shortcut

Appliqué is the secret to high-profit embroidery: it covers large areas with fabric instead of expensive thread.

Action:

1. Select the Satin/Column object you created in Step 4.
2. Go to Convert > Applique.
3. Watch the properties panel change to include "Placement," "Tack Down," and "Cover" steps.

Production Reality: Appliqué requires you to stop the machine, place fabric, stitch a tack-down line, remove the hoop (usually), trim the fabric, and re-attach the hoop.

• The Risk: Every time you pop a hoop off the machine to trim, you risk shifting the calibration.
• The Solution: This is a primary trigger for upgrading to magnetic embroidery frames. Unlike traditional screw hoops, magnetic frames allow you to hold the fabric firm without ring-burn, and their flat profile often makes trimming closer and easier without popping the inner ring out.

Prep Phase: The "Pre-Flight" Check

Before you send any of these converted files to the machine, you must prepare the physical environment. Software perfection cannot fix hardware negligence.

Hidden Consumables Setup

• Needles: Use a 75/11 Ballpoint for knits or 75/11 Sharp for wovens. A dull needle will ruin a satin column.
• Stabilizer: Use Cutaway for anything you wear (stretchy). Use Tearaway only for stable items (towels/hats).
• Adhesion: Temporary adhesive spray (like KK100) is your best friend for appliqué to prevent bubbling.

Prep Checklist

• Curve Logic: Is the stitch length on curves at least 1.5mm to prevent needle heating?
• Hoop Integity: Check your hoop screw. If using a standard hoop, is it tight enough to sound like a drum when tapped?
• Bobbin: Do you have enough bobbin thread? Running out in the middle of a satin column leaves a visible "seam."
• Safety Zone: Is the design centered? Use the trace function on your machine to ensure the needle won't hit the hoop frame.

Setup Phase: Organizing for Success

The Conversion Sandbox

When you use the Convert tool, Embird often stacks the new object directly on top of the old one. This is a recipe for disaster (stitching twice). Rule: Immediately move the new object 10mm to the right or change its color so you can visually verify it.

Decision Tree: Which Conversion Do I Need?

Use this logic flow to determine your action:

1. Do you need to denote where to place a piece of fabric?
   • Yes: Use Convert > Create Outline from Fill. (Use as a placement line).
2. Do you want a thick, raised, premium border?
   • Yes: Use Convert > Create Column from Fill. (Remember to add Pull Compensation).
3. Do you need to fill the empty center with a different color?
   • Yes: Use Convert > Create Fill from Opening.
4. Are you trying to save thread count and use fabric instead?
   • Yes: Convert the Column object to Applique.

Operation: The Workflow

Step-by-Step Execution

1. Design Base: Draw the fill. Ensure "Curves" is checked. Close object.
2. Cut Hole: Use Hole tool. finalize.
3. Convert to Outline: Select Donut -> Convert -> Outline. Change color immediately.
4. Convert to Column: Select Donut -> Convert -> Column. Generate Stitches. Check density (aim for 0.45mm).
5. Convert Center: Select Donut -> Convert -> Fill from Opening.
6. Verify Order: Check your object list. Ensure outlines stitch before satins.

Operation Checklist

• Object Distinctness: Can you select the Outline separate from the Fill?
• Stitch Generation: Have you pressed "Generate Stitches" (Ctrl+G) for all new objects?
• Stitch Angles: Do the satin columns flow correctly? (Adjust stitch angles if the satin looks twisted).
• Hardware Ready: Is the machine threaded with the correct colors corresponding to your new objects?

Quality Control & Troubleshooting

Even with perfect software conversion, physical issues arise.

Troubleshooting Table

The Hoop Burn Problem

Traditional hoops require you to jam an inner ring into an outer ring, crushing the fabric fibers (hoop burn). When doing conversions for fragile items (like velvet or performance wear), this is deadly.

• Observation: If you see a shiny "ring" on your fabric after unhooping, you are damaging the garment.
• Tools: This is why professionals use magnetic embroidery hoop systems. They clamp top-down rather than in-between, eliminating hoop burn and handling thick seams (like pockets) that standard hoops cannot close over.

Conclusion

Digitizing in Embird is powerful because it allows you to manipulate geometry—turning a simple donut into patches, appliqués, and logos without redrawing. However, remember that the software is only the blueprint.

The building is constructed by your machine, your thread, and your stabilization. If you master the Convert menu but ignore the physical hooping process, you will get "mathematically perfect" files that stitch out poorly.

For those moving into production runs where efficiency and consistency are key, consider how your physical workflow supports your digital design. Terms like magnetic embroidery hoop are not just buzzwords; they represent the tool evolution necessary to gain the speed and safety that basic equipment cannot provide.

Warning: Magnet Safety. If you choose to upgrade to magnetic hoops, be aware they use industrial-strength magnets. They present a serious pinch hazard. Keep them away from anyone with a pacemaker, and keep credit cards/phones at a safe distance. Always slide the magnets apart; never try to pry them directly up.