Ricoma CHT2 Errors That Kill Production: Fix Thread Breaks, Bobbin Runouts, “No Needle,” and the 100-Degree Main Axis Fault—Then Keep Them From Coming Back

When the red light flashes on your Ricoma CHT2 in the middle of a complex design, the silence in your workroom can be deafening. It pauses more than just a stitch file—it halts your cash flow, threatens your delivery deadline, and erodes your confidence as an operator.

But here is the secret that seasoned embroiderers kno: The machine is not "broken"—it is communicating.

90% of the scary stoppages on CHT2 multi-needle machines stem from a predictable set of physical variables: Path, Position, and Maintenance. This guide transforms the panic of error codes into a calm, mechanical checklist. We will move beyond vague advice and give you the sensory cues—what to feel, hear, and see—to fix thread breaks, bobbin failures, 100-degree axis errors, and tension loops, turning you from a worried owner into a master technician.

Don’t Panic When the Ricoma CHT2 Stops—Decode the "Physical 3"

Before you touch a screwdriver or dive into complex software menus, you must categorize the problem. If your machine stops, it is almost always one of these three physical realities:

1. Path (The Highway): The thread or bobbin path is blocked, kinked, or resistant.
2. Position (The Parking Spot): The needle head isn’t centered, or the main rotary axis isn’t synchronized (the 100-degree rule).
3. Maintenance (The Friction): Lint, dryness, or debris is fighting the motor.

Adopting this mindset prevents "Panic Tuning"—the dangerous habit of randomly tightening tension knobs or forcing trims, which usually creates permanent damage out of a temporary glitch.

The "Pre-Flight" Check: Hidden Prep Steps Pros Do Before Touching a Screen

Most embroidery failures are engineered into the job before the start button is pressed. Before you chase an error code, ensure your environment isn't fighting you.

Pre-Flight Checklist (The "Must-Dos")

Run this mental scan before every job to eliminate variables.

• Zone Safety: Confirm you can access the head and hook area without leaning over mess.
• The "Floss" Check: Pull 6 inches of thread from the needle. Does it flow smoothly, or does it jerk? (Sensory cue: It should feel consistent, like unwaxed dental floss).
• Cone Orientation: Check proper seating. Is the thread pooling at the bottom of the cone? This causes "puddling" and snaps.
• Position Verification: Are you actually on Needle #1, or is the head hovering between #1 and #2?
• Consumables Prep: Have your lint brush, clear machine oil, and a new needle ready.
• The Hidden Consumable: Keep spray adhesive and temporary marking pens nearby. New operators often skip these, leading to poor fabric positioning.

Pro Insight: If your team struggles with inconsistent placement or "hoop burn" (the ring marks left on fabric), the problem is often the loading process, not the machine. Implementing a hooping station for embroidery machine standardizes the tension on the fabric, ensuring every shirt feels the same to the machine's needle.

Stop Ricoma CHT2 Thread Breaks: Auditing the Path (Visual & Tactile)

A thread break is rarely the thread's fault. It is usually a symptom of Side-Load Friction. The thread is being pulled against a guide rather than flowing through it.

The Diagnosis Protocol

1. Cone to Rack: Ensure the thread goes straight up to the first guide. If it angles sharply, the plastic cone edge becomes a knife.
2. The Pretensioner: Look at the small metal guide holes. Is lint packed in them? Floss it out.
3. Tension Disks: Verify the thread is deeply seated between the metal disks, not riding on top.
4. Needle Eye: Check for burrs. (Sensory cue: Run your fingernail down the needle tip. If it catches, throw the needle away).

The "Sweet Spot" Tension Data

New operators guess at tension. Here are the safe starting ranges (requires a tension gauge):

• Top Tension: 100gf – 130gf (Rayon/Poly).
• Bobbin Tension: 18gf – 25gf.

Expected Outcome

When you pull thread through the needle manually, you should feel steady, moderate resistance. If it feels like a loose hair, it's too loose. If it feels like a guitar string, it's too tight.

Note: If you are consistently snapping threads on thick garments (like Carhartt jackets), standard plastic hoops might be distorting the fabric, causing the needle to deflect and shred the thread. Many professionals search for hoops for ricoma specifically to find magnetic clamping solutions that hold thick material flat without the "trampoline effect."

Fix Bobbin Runouts: The "Click" and The "Drop Test"

Replacing a bobbin seems simple, yet it causes 30% of downtime issues. The CHT2 relies on precise bobbin tension to form stitches.

The Critical Steps (Video-Based)

1. Remove the Case: Pull the tab and remove the metal bobbin case.
2. Insert & Route: Drop the new bobbin in (SEWTECH pre-wounds or Ultra Bob style). Slide the thread into the slit and under the tension spring.
3. The "Drop Test" (Sensory Check): Hold the bobbin case by the thread tail. It should hang suspended. Flick your wrist gently. The case should drop 1–2 inches and stop like a yo-yo.
   • Falls to floor? Too loose. Tighten the tiny screw.
   • Doesn't move? Too tight. Loosen the screw.
4. The "Click": Reinsert the case into the rotary hook. Push until you hear a sharp, metallic CLICK.
   • No Click? The bobbin will fly out at 800 RPM, shattering the needle.
     

Hidden Danger: The "Pigtail"

If your machine has a pigtail guide on the bobbin case, ensure the thread loops through it. Missing this reduces tension by 30%, causing loops on top of your design.

The "No Needle" or Color Change Error: Finding Your Parking Spot

If the CHT2 stops and claims "No Needle" or refuses to change color, it has likely lost its orbital awareness—it doesn't know which needle is active.

The Fix

Check the control panel's needle indicator. Does it show a specific number (e.g., "3") or is it blank? Using the manual keys, move the head slightly left or right until it locks into a valid index position. Treat this like a car that isn't quite in a parking gear—you just need to nudge it until the sensor engages.

The scariest Error: 100-Degree Main Axis Fault

This error triggers a primal fear because the machine locks up. It usually happens after a "birdsnest" (thread jam) forces the machine out of mechanical sync.

Warning: Physical Safety Hazard. Always Power OFF the machine before performing the Main Axis adjustment. Your hands will be near moving gears and needles. If the machine engages while your hand is on the knob, severe injury can occur.

The Mechanical Reset

1. Power Down: Wait 10 seconds for capacitors to discharge.
2. Locate the Knob: Find the manual main axis knob (usually on the side or rear of the head).
3. The 100-Degree Rule: Embroidery machines are mechanically timed to be at rest at 100 degrees. Rotate the knob manually.
4. Sensory Check: Feel for resistance. If the knob refuses to turn, STOP. You have a physical thread jam in the hook that must be cleared first.
5. Align: Turn until the dial pointer sits exactly at 100 on the degree wheel.
6. Restart: Power on. The machine should boot into a "Ready" state.
   

Eliminating Loose Loops: Targeted Tension Tuning

"Looping" means the top thread is lying flat and loose on the fabric. It looks messy and snag-prone.

The Adjustment Protocol

1. Identify the Culprit: Which specific needle is looping? Do not adjust all knobs—only the offender.
2. The Clockwise Turn: Turn the upper tension knob Clockwise (Righty-Tighty).
3. The Increment Rule: Only turn half a number or roughly 90 degrees at a time.
4. Test: Sew a test letter "I" or specific tension blocks.

The "False Looping" Trap

Sometimes loops aren't loose tension—they are Flagging. This happens when fabric bounces up and down with the needle (flagging) because it isn't hooped tightly enough. Before tightening tension, tighten your hoop! If you are tired of wrestling with screws, looking into ricoma embroidery hoops that use magnetic force can eliminate flagging instantly.

The Maintenance Ritual: Preventing the Next Error

Maintenance isn't a chore; it's your insurance policy against downtime. Follow this schedule religiously.

The 3 Critical Zones

1. The Rotary Hook (The Heart)

• Frequency: Every 4 to 8 running hours.
• Action: 2 drops of clear embroidery oil on the race (the part that spins).
• Why: This component spins at 1000 RPM. Without oil, friction creates heat, which melts polyester thread leads to immediate snapping.
  

Warning: Never use WD-40 or silicone sprays. They gum up the electronics. Use only clear, high-grade sewing machine oil.

2. The Trimmer Knives (The Scissors)

• Frequency: Once a week.
• Action: Remove needle plate. Brush out the "dust bunny" colonies.
• Why: Dust prevents the movable knife from retracting, causing "Needle Hitting Trimmer" errors.
  

3. The Needle Bars (The Pistons)

• Frequency: Weekly.
• Action: One drop on the upper and lower sections of the reciprocator bars.
• KWD Context: While doing this, check your hoops. Damaged hoops cause vibration. Experienced shops often upgrade to mighty hoop ricoma systems because their durability matches the machine's industrial lifespan.
  
  
  

Troubleshooting Guide: From Symptom to Solution

Use this table to diagnose issues quickly without guessing.

Decision Tree: Stabilization & Hooping

Stop fighting your materials. Choosing the right "sandwich" solves 50% of machine errors.

Step 1: Identify Fabric Elasticity

• Stretchy (T-Shirt/Polo/Beanie): You must use Cutaway Stabilizer. Tearaway will fail, causing the design to distort and the machine to jam.
• Stable (Denim/Twill/Canvas): Use Tearaway or light Cutaway.

Step 2: Choose Hooping Method

• Tubular (Standard Hoops): Good for standard placements. Risk: "Hoop Burn" shines on dark fabrics.
• Magnetic (Speed & Safety): Best for production runs. To optimize workflow, using a magnetic hooping station allows you to prep the next garment while the machine is running.

Step 3: Needle Selection

• Knits: Ballpoint (BP) - pushes fibers aside.
• Woven: Sharp (RG) - pierces fibers cleanly.

The Upgrade Path: Where Tools Buy You Profit

Once you have mastered the basics, your bottleneck will shift from "fixing errors" to "speed of loading."

• Level 1: Stability Upgrade. If you struggle with hoop burn or stiff hands, magnetic embroidery hoops use magnetic force to clamp fabric automatically. This removes the variable of "how tight did I screw the hoop?"
• Level 2: Speed Upgrade. For bulk orders (50+ shirts), a single machine isn't enough. Moving to a SEWTECH Multi-Needle platform offers industrial throughput, allowing you to run jobs simultaneously.
• Level 3: Efficiency Upgrade. Bundles like the ricoma mighty hoop starter kit are popular because they solve multiple size needs instantly. However, ensure you verify compatibility with your specific arm spacing.

Warning: Magnet Safety. Magnetic hoops contain neodymium industrial magnets. They can pinch fingers with over 30lbs of force. Never place them near pacemakers, and keep fingers clear of the "snap zone."

Setup Checklist: The "Run It Like a Pro" Routine

Cut this out and tape it to your machine stand.

1. Oil Check: Did you add 2 drops to the hook today?
2. Needle Audit: Is the needle bent? Is the tip sharp? (Change every 8 running hours).
3. Thread Path: Is the thread passing through the sensor wheels, not over them?
4. Bobbin: Is it low? (Don't start a large backing fill with a low bobbin).
5. Hoop Clearance: Trace the design. Does the foot hit the hoop plastic?
6. Axis: Is the screen showing 100 degrees?

If you find yourself spending more time wrestling with plastic rings than actually embroidering, it might be time to investigate hooping for embroidery machine alternatives. Consistency in hooping leads to consistency in stitching—and that is how hobbyists become professionals.

FAQ

• Q: What pre-flight checklist items prevent Ricoma CHT2 mid-design stops before pressing Start?
  A: Use a consistent pre-flight routine to remove preventable variables before the Ricoma CHT2 ever reads an error.
  • Confirm zone safety and access to the head and rotary hook area before you begin.
  • Pull ~6 inches of top thread (“floss check”) to confirm smooth, consistent feed from cone to needle path.
  • Prepare consumables: lint brush, clear machine oil, and a new needle; keep spray adhesive and temporary marking pens ready for stable positioning.
  • Success check: Top thread pulls like unwaxed dental floss—steady and smooth, not jerky.
  • If it still fails: Move to a full thread-path audit (cone-to-needle) and inspect needle burrs.
• Q: What are safe starting tension ranges for Ricoma CHT2 top tension and bobbin tension when diagnosing thread breaks?
  A: Start with measured baseline tension, then adjust only after confirming correct threading on the Ricoma CHT2.
  • Set top tension to 100gf–130gf for rayon/poly (using a tension gauge).
  • Set bobbin tension to 18gf–25gf (using a tension gauge).
  • Verify the thread is seated between the tension disks (not riding on top) before changing any knobs.
  • Success check: Pulling thread through the needle by hand feels steady, moderate resistance (not “loose hair” and not “guitar string”).
  • If it still fails: Replace the needle and inspect guides/pretensioner holes for lint or sharp friction points.
• Q: How does the Ricoma CHT2 bobbin case “drop test” and “click” prevent bobbin runouts and needle breaks?
  A: Install the bobbin so tension and seating are correct, then confirm the Ricoma CHT2 bobbin case locks in place.
  • Route the bobbin thread into the slit and under the tension spring before inserting the case.
  • Perform the drop test: hold the case by the thread tail, flick gently, and adjust the tiny screw so the case drops 1–2 inches and stops.
  • Reinsert the bobbin case until a sharp metallic CLICK is heard.
  • Success check: The case passes the 1–2 inch drop test and you hear/feel the CLICK when seating it.
  • If it still fails: Confirm the bobbin thread is routed through the pigtail guide (if present) to avoid reduced tension and top-side loops.
• Q: How can Ricoma CHT2 operators fix a “No Needle” or color change error when the needle head will not index correctly?
  A: Nudge the Ricoma CHT2 needle head back into a valid index position so the sensor can recognize an active needle.
  • Check the control panel needle indicator to see whether a needle number is displayed or blank.
  • Use manual movement keys to move slightly left/right until the head locks into a clear indexed position.
  • Avoid forcing trims or changing random settings while the head is between positions.
  • Success check: The display shows a specific needle number (e.g., “3”) and the machine resumes normal color change behavior.
  • If it still fails: Power down and inspect for physical obstruction or thread jam affecting movement.
• Q: What is the safe way to clear the Ricoma CHT2 100-degree main axis fault after a birdnest jam?
  A: Power OFF first, clear any physical jam, then manually re-time to the 100-degree resting position on the Ricoma CHT2.
  • Power down and wait ~10 seconds before touching the main axis area.
  • Locate the manual main axis knob and rotate by hand toward the 100-degree alignment.
  • Stop immediately if the knob will not turn—clear thread jam in the hook area before continuing.
  • Success check: The pointer aligns exactly at 100 degrees and the machine restarts into a Ready state.
  • If it still fails: Recheck for remaining jam/debris in the rotary hook area and do not force rotation.
• Q: How can Ricoma CHT2 operators stop loose loops on top without over-tightening every tension knob?
  A: Adjust only the looping needle on the Ricoma CHT2, and rule out fabric flagging before chasing tension.
  • Identify which specific needle is looping; do not change all needles at once.
  • Turn that needle’s upper tension knob clockwise in small increments (about half a number / ~90 degrees).
  • Re-test using a simple “I” stitch or tension blocks after each small adjustment.
  • Success check: Loops disappear and stitches look balanced without the fabric bouncing (no visible up-down “flagging”).
  • If it still fails: Tighten hooping to reduce flagging before adding more tension, because loose hooping can mimic low tension.
• Q: When should Ricoma CHT2 shops move from technique fixes to magnetic hoops or a multi-needle production upgrade for recurring downtime?
  A: Escalate in layers: first stabilize threading/maintenance, then reduce hooping variability, then add capacity if volume demands it.
  • Level 1 (technique): Standardize pre-flight checks, verify correct threading into tension disks, and maintain hook oiling and trimmer cleaning.
  • Level 2 (tooling): If hoop burn, flagging, or thick garments keep causing inconsistent stitching, consider magnetic clamping to make fabric holding consistent.
  • Level 3 (capacity): If bulk orders (often 50+ shirts) create delivery risk even when errors are controlled, add throughput with additional production capability.
  • Success check: Downtime drops because the root cause (path/position/maintenance or hooping consistency) is removed, not “masked” by random tension changes.
  • If it still fails: Track which failure repeats (thread path friction, indexing/position errors, hook jams, or hoop strikes) and address that specific category before upgrading again.