Stop Losing Designs in Hatch: Set Up “Manage Designs” Like a Pro (Without Moving a Single File)

If you’ve ever stared at a messy embroidery folder at midnight—half DSTs, half EMBs, three versions of the same logo, and a “Downloads” folder you’re afraid to touch—you’re not disorganized. You simply haven’t established a workflow system.

In the professional embroidery world, we don't just "save files"; we manage digital assets. A disorganized library isn't just annoying; it leads to sending the wrong version to the machine, resizing a stitch file instead of an object file (a cardinal sin in digitizing), or selecting the wrong hoop size for the final garment.

Hatch Embroidery Software offers a solution called Manage Designs. Think of this not just as a file viewer, but as your digital production floor. Set it up once using the logic below, and you will stop “re-hunting” for files every time you want to stitch.

The Calm-Down Moment: “Manage Designs” in Hatch Embroidery Software Won’t Delete Your Work

When beginners first open the file manager inside Hatch, the fear is tangible: “If I click the wrong thing, will I lose my expensive designs?” Let’s establish a safety baseline before we proceed.

In the video, opening Manage Designs switches Hatch from the blank digitizing workspace into a “Library Mode.” It functions similarly to Windows Explorer but is optimized for stitch data. The critical concept to understand is that Hatch is primarily showing you indexed links to your folders. It is viewing them, not consuming them.

If you are currently researching the best embroidery machine for beginners, you often hear about hoop sizes and needle counts, but rarely about software hygiene. Yet, establishing this "digital housekeeping" is exactly what prevents a beginner machine (and a beginner brain) from getting overwhelmed once your design collection expands past the first 50 files.

Read the Directory Tree Like a Shop Owner: Embroidery Library, My Designs, and My Machine Files

The left panel is your navigational directory tree. In the video, the top level includes Embroidery Library, containing indexed sub-directories for quick retrieval.

To a professional, these folders represent different stages of production. You will typically see:

• My Embroidery (containing subfolders like My Designs and My Machine Files)
• Public Library (Hatch’s built-in assets)

The "Golden Rule" of File Separation

The most important distinction you must make—and one I teach every new digitizer—is the difference between your Working Files and your Machine Files.

• My Designs (EMB): These are your "Source Code." They contain object data, densities, and settings. You never put these directly onto a USB stick for the machine.
• My Machine Files (DST, PES, EXP, JEF): These are "Compiled Code." They are coordinate instructions for the needle. They do not scale well.
  
  Pro tip

  Never mix these in the same folder. If you accidentally edit a DST file hoping to change a font, the result is often a messy, bullet-proof patch of stitches. Keep your source (EMB) in "My Designs" and your output (DST) in "My Machine Files."

The “Hidden” Prep That Saves Hours Later: Clean Folder Naming + One Safe Master Location

Before you start linking folders and dragging files around, do the physical preparation that experienced operators treat as non-negotiable.

What to prep (so Hatch stays fast and you stay sane)

• Centralize: Decide where your “Master” design folder lives on your computer (e.g., Documents/EmbroideryMaster). Do not scatter files across Desktop, Downloads, and random USB drives.
• Standardize Naming: Use a convention like [ClientName]_[Project]_[Size]_[Date].EMB. Avoid filenames like flower_final_v2_fixed.dst.
• Quarantine New Files: Keep a “To_Test” folder. Downloaded designs from the internet should be reviewed here for jump stitches and density issues before they enter your main library.

This matters because Hatch can show thumbnails and specs instantly when organized—and because you will eventually need to locate a specific file under pressure (e.g., a rush holiday order or a client demanding a reprint).

Prep Checklist (Pre-Flight Protocol):

• Create Master Directory: Establish one main folder on your hard drive (backed up to the cloud) for all embroidery assets.
• Segregate Formats: Create subfolders specifically for “Source_EMB” and “Production_DST” to prevent editing errors.
• Audit Filenames: Rename mystery files (e.g., XC9902.pes) to descriptive names (e.g., Vintage_Rose_4x4.pes) so the thumbnail has context.
• Quarantine Zone: Establish a holding folder for new, untested downloads.

The Fastest Way to Spot the Right File: Hover for Stitch Count, Size, and Colors

In the video, hovering over Aloha-large.EMB reveals a tooltip with key specs:

• Stitch Count: 14,104 stitches
• Height: 124.81 mm
• Width: 121.53 mm
• Colors: 5

This tooltip is your first defense against production failure. In my shop, we call this the "Reality Check."

Interpreting the Data (The "Why" behind the numbers)

• Stitch Count vs. Fabric: 14,000 stitches is dense for a lightweight t-shirt but fine for denim. If you see high stitch counts (>20,000) on a small area, you know immediately you need heavier stabilizer (like Cutaway) to prevent puckering.
• Size (mm) vs. Hoop: This is critical. If your design is 124mm and your standard hoop is 100x100mm, you cannot stitch it without resizing or re-hooping.
• Color Count & Single-Needle Fatigue: On a single-needle machine, 5 colors means 4 manual stops and re-threads. If the count says "25 colors" for a simple logo, the file might be poorly digitized with unnecessary stops.

Commercial Insight: If you frequently struggle with designs that almost fit the hoop, or find yourself fighting to center a 120mm design in a 130mm standard hoop, this is where hardware limits meet software planning. Many professionals upgrade to magnetic embroidery hoops in these edge cases. They allow for faster, non-destructive adjustments without the "hoop burn" ring that traditional plastic frames leave when you over-tighten them to force a fit.

Link External Folders the Safe Way: “Add Folder to Library” (No Files Moved)

This feature prevents the classic beginner mistake: dragging folders around in Windows Explorer and breaking your own file paths.

In the video, Hatch demonstrates adding an external folder by:

1. Clicking Add Folder to Library.
2. Browsing the local disk (C: drive).
3. Selecting a target folder (example shown: “aaarandom designs”).
4. Clicking Add to Library.

The narrator makes the most important point: Hatch does not physically move your files. It creates a virtual link (an index) so you can view/manage them inside the software.

This is massive for anyone who:

• Stores designs on an external hard drive (to save space on the laptop).
• Organizes files by "Client" or "Year" on a cloud drive (Dropbox/OneDrive).
• Wants Hatch to "see" everything without destroying their existing backup structure.

Why linking beats “dumping everything into one folder”

In production shops, designs come from everywhere: professional digitizers, Etsy downloads, customer emails, and old formatting sticks. Linking lets you keep your original intake structure intact while browsing in one unified interface.

If you are already considering workflow upgrades like dedicated hooping stations to standardize physical placement, this software feature is the digital equivalent: a repeatable, standardized view that reduces handling time and error.

Setup Checklist (Before clicking “Add to Library”):

• Verify Source: Confirm the folder you are linking is the permanent location, not a temporary "Downloads" bin.
• Descriptive Naming: Ensure the folder name describes the content (e.g., “Sports Logos,” “ITH Project,” “Client_Smith”) rather than "New Folder 2."
• Library Separation: Decide if this folder belongs in your "Client Work" or "Personal Library" to keep your mental workspace clear.
• Visual Confirm: After linking, click the folder and ensure thumbnails populate correctly.

Remove the Link Without Panic: “Remove Folder From Library” Is Not Deleting

The video shows the correct way to clean up your library tree:

1. Select the linked folder in the tree.
2. Click Remove Folder From Library.

The folder disappears from the Hatch directory tree, but—crucially—the narrator confirms your original files remain touched on your hard drive. You are merely removing the "shortcut," not the data.

Warning: Data Safety Alert. Do not confuse “Remove Folder From Library” (inside Hatch) with “Delete” (right-clicking in Windows/Mac). If you delete the actual folder in your operating system, those files are sent to the Recycle Bin and can be permanently lost. Always perform file deletions from the OS file explorer, not the design software, unless you are 100% certain.

Drag-and-Drop Like You Mean It: Move or Copy Designs Without Creating a Mess

Once your folders are visible in the tree, Hatch allows you to reorganize individual designs.

In the video, the workflow is:

1. Click and hold the left mouse button on a design thumbnail (example: “The Running Club”).
2. Drag it onto a destination folder in the tree (example: “Sports”).
3. Release the mouse.
4. Choose Copy or Move when the prompt appears.

Copy vs. Move (The "Safety First" Protocol)

• Copy: Creates a duplicate in the new folder. Recommended for Beginners. It leaves the original intact as a backup. Use this when moving designs from "Downloads" to "Production."
• Move: Transfers the file and deletes the original. Use this only when you are organizing a messy folder and want to clear it out.

Expert Advice: In production environments, I always recommend Copying first. Once you have stitched the design and confirmed the organized folder system works, you can go back and delete the duplicates. It is a "measure twice, cut once" approach to data.

Warning: Precision Matters. If you are using a trackpad or working quickly, it is easy to drop a file into the wrong sub-folder (e.g., dropping a specialized logo into the generic "Flowers" folder). After any drag-and-drop session, click the destination folder and visually confirm the design is present before closing Hatch.

Sort and Group in Hatch File Manager to Find Designs in Seconds (Not Minutes)

This is where Manage Designs transitions from a filing cabinet to a search engine.

In the video, Hatch demonstrates using the dropdown menus at the top to:

• Change Group by (example shown: Date Created).
• Change Sort by (example shown: Stitches).
• Toggle Ascending and Descending.

You can also change the view mode (the video shows Extra Large Icons), which is essential for identifying subtle differences between similar logo versions.

Real-World Sorting Strategies

How you sort depends on your immediate goal:

• Production Planning: Sort by Stitches (Descending). This puts your longest, most time-consuming jobs at the top, allowing you to estimate how many hours of machine runtime you have ahead of you.
• Version Control: Group by Date Created. This is the fastest way to find "that file I edited last Tuesday" without scrolling through alphabetical lists.
• Quality Control: Use Extra Large Icons. This helps you spot "ugly" auto-digitized files or color-block errors before you even open them.

If you run multiple hoops or machines, the time saved here accumulates. Saving 5 minutes searching for a file, three times a day, saves over an hour a week. That is free productivity.

A Practical Decision Tree: How to Organize Designs Based on How You Stitch

Do not copy someone else's system; build one that matches your output. Use this decision tree:

Decision Tree (Design Organization Strategy):

1. Do you edit designs in Hatch (resize, personalize, change density)?
   • Yes: Keep a master "Editable (EMB)" folder. This is your vault. Never stitch directly from it; export from it.
   • No: You can store only machine files (DST/PES), but categorize them strictly by Project Type.
2. Do you stitch for paying customers / repeat orders?
   • Yes: Create folders by Customer Name → then by Job Type (Left Chest, Cap, Back).
   • No: Create folders by Theme (Floral, Kids, Xmas) or by Substrate (Towels, Bags, Polos).
3. Do you export to the machine frequently?
   • Yes: Maintain a specific "USB_Transfer" folder. Export files here, copy to USB, then clear the USB. This keeps the drive clean.
   • No: Export directly to media as needed, but verify filenames carefully to avoid overwriting.
4. Do you test new digitizers or free downloads?
   • Yes: Keep a "To_Test" folder linked. Stitch it on scrap fabric first. Only move it to your "Approved Library" after a successful physical sew-out.

The “Why” Behind Good File Management: It Prevents Stitching Problems You’d Blame on the Machine

File organization sounds like administrative work—until you realize that 30% of "machine errors" are actually "file management errors."

When you can instantly see the right design version and its specifications, you reduce:

• Hooping a 100mm design for a 100mm hoop (leaving zero margin for error).
• Stitching "Logo_v1" (with the spelling error) instead of "Logo_v2_Fixed."
• Exporting a PES file (for Brother) when you needed a DST (for Tajima/Commercial).
• Losing track of which design version helped stabilize stretchy fabric vs. denim.

This is also where your digital workflow impacts your physical equipment. If you are already optimizing your file selection to reduce setup time, it makes sense to look at your hardware. If you are using a hooping station for embroidery to speed up the loading of garments, ensuring your software library is equally fast means your production line never stops.

The Upgrade Path That Actually Fits: When Software Order Meets Hooping Efficiency

Once your digital library is under control, the next bottleneck usually moves to the hooping process—especially if you are doing repeat logos, team orders, or batching gifts.

If you are currently wrestling with standard plastic machine embroidery hoops and finding that your perfectly organized designs still yield crooked results or hoop burn, consider this upgrade logic:

• Scenario (The Trigger): You spend more time aligning, loosening screws, and tugging fabric than the machine spends stitching.
• Judgment Standard: If hooping delicate fabrics (like velvet or performance wear) leaves a "ring" mark (hoop burn), or if thick items (towels/jackets) keep popping out of the frame, your tools are limiting your software's potential.
• The Solution (Options):
  • Level 1 (Technique): Verify you are using the correct stabilizer backing.
  • Level 2 (Hardware Upgrade): For home and prosumer users, a magnetic embroidery hoop creates a firm hold without the "jamming" action of an inner ring. This reduces fabric stress and dramatically speeds up the changeover between items.
  • Level 3 (Efficiency): For multi-needle production, magnetic embroidery hoops (like the Sewtech series) allow you to slide garments on and off continuously, often doubling the output per hour on simple left-chest logos.

Warning: Magnetic Safety. Powerful magnetic hoops are industrial tools. Keep them away from pacemakers, implanted medical devices, and magnetic stripe cards (credit cards). Pinch Hazard: Never let your fingers get between the top and bottom frames when they snap together—the force is strong enough to cause injury.

One more “shop owner” tip

Treat your design library like physical inventory. If you sell finished goods, a clean folder system plus consistent naming is the secret to quoting faster, stitching faster, and duplicating past success without rework.

Operation Checklist (Post-Organization Standard Work):

• Data Verification: Hover over the design to confirm Size (mm) and Stitch Count matches your selected hoop and fabric.
• Safety Protocol: Use "Copy" rather than "Move" until your new folder structure is proven stable.
• Visual Confirmation: After any drag-and-drop, open the target folder to verify the transfer.
• Sorting Logic: Sort by 'Stitches' for production planning; Group by 'Date' for finding recent edits.
• Export Discipline: Keep "My Machine Files" as a clean, export-only zone. Never edit these files directly; always go back to the EMB source.
• Stock Consumables: Ensure you have backup USB drives and temporary marking pens (water-soluble) near the computer for noting file names or adjustments physically.

FAQ

• Q: Will Hatch Embroidery Software “Manage Designs” delete EMB or DST files when Hatch Manage Designs opens Library Mode?
  A: No—Hatch Manage Designs is viewing indexed links to folders, not consuming or deleting your embroidery files.
  • Open Manage Designs and treat it like a file viewer optimized for embroidery thumbnails and specs.
  • Add folders using “Add Folder to Library” instead of dragging folders around in your operating system.
  • Avoid using any “Delete” actions in Windows/Mac until you confirm you are in the correct location.
  • Success check: The same EMB/DST files still exist in the original Windows/Mac folder after closing Hatch.
  • If it still fails… check whether files were deleted in the operating system (Recycle Bin/Trash), because “Remove Folder From Library” is not the same as OS delete.
• Q: How should Hatch Embroidery Software separate EMB working files from DST/PES/EXP/JEF machine files to avoid editing the wrong format?
  A: Keep EMB “source” files and DST/PES/EXP/JEF “machine” files in separate folders so the wrong file type never gets edited or exported by accident.
  • Create two clear folders: one for EMB (editable objects/settings) and one for machine files (DST/PES/EXP/JEF output).
  • Export machine files from the EMB source folder into the machine-file folder instead of stitching from EMB directly.
  • Never mix EMB and DST/PES in the same folder when you are tired or rushed.
  • Success check: When preparing a job, the folder you copy to USB contains only machine formats (DST/PES/EXP/JEF), not EMB.
  • If it still fails… rename folders to make the purpose obvious (for example, “Source_EMB” and “Production_DST”) and re-link them in Manage Designs.
• Q: How do you safely link an external folder in Hatch Embroidery Software using “Add Folder to Library” without moving embroidery files?
  A: Use “Add Folder to Library” to create a virtual link—Hatch will not physically move the files from the drive.
  • Verify the folder you link is the permanent storage location (not a temporary Downloads folder).
  • Click “Add Folder to Library,” browse to the folder, and confirm thumbnails populate after linking.
  • Name the folder descriptively (Client/Theme/Year) before linking so it stays searchable later.
  • Success check: The linked folder appears in the Hatch directory tree, and the same folder still exists unchanged on the disk.
  • If it still fails… relink from the correct drive path (external drives and cloud paths can change), then confirm Hatch can load thumbnails.
• Q: What does “Remove Folder From Library” in Hatch Embroidery Software do, and how is it different from deleting a folder in Windows/Mac?
  A: “Remove Folder From Library” only removes the shortcut inside Hatch; it does not delete the embroidery files from the computer.
  • Select the linked folder in the Hatch tree and choose “Remove Folder From Library” to clean up the library view.
  • Delete files only from Windows/Mac file explorer when you are 100% sure you want them gone.
  • Treat Hatch removal as “unlink,” not “erase.”
  • Success check: The folder disappears from Hatch, but the files are still present in the original Windows/Mac location.
  • If it still fails… stop and check whether an OS-level delete occurred (Recycle Bin/Trash) before doing any further organizing.
• Q: How can Hatch Embroidery Software tooltips (stitch count, size in mm, color count) prevent hoop-size mistakes before stitching?
  A: Hover over the design thumbnail and confirm size (mm), stitch count, and colors before selecting a hoop or exporting the file.
  • Hover a design to read stitch count, height/width (mm), and color count.
  • Compare the design’s mm size to the hoop you plan to use before hooping (avoid “zero margin” fits).
  • Use stitch count as a red flag for density on lightweight fabrics (high stitches in small areas often need more stabilization).
  • Success check: The design dimensions clearly fit within the chosen hoop with comfortable margin, and the planned color changes match expectations.
  • If it still fails… do not force a borderline fit by over-tightening; consider re-evaluating the hoop choice and stabilizer, or use a magnetic hoop when repeated alignment and hoop burn become chronic.
• Q: In Hatch Embroidery Software Manage Designs, when should you choose “Copy” vs “Move” during drag-and-drop organization?
  A: Choose “Copy” as the safe default; use “Move” only when you are sure the destination folder is correct and you want the original removed.
  • Drag the design thumbnail to the target folder and select “Copy” to keep a backup during early organization.
  • Use “Move” only when cleaning a known messy folder and you are confident in the new structure.
  • Immediately open the destination folder after each batch to confirm items landed where intended.
  • Success check: The correct design appears in the intended folder (thumbnail visible), and no critical file “disappears” unexpectedly.
  • If it still fails… search the library by grouping/sorting (for example by Date Created) to locate misplaced files before creating duplicates.
• Q: What is the safety warning for using magnetic embroidery hoops in production, and what hazards should operators prevent?
  A: Magnetic embroidery hoops are powerful tools—keep them away from pacemakers/implanted devices and protect fingers from pinch injuries when the frames snap together.
  • Keep magnetic hoops away from pacemakers, implanted medical devices, and magnetic stripe cards.
  • Separate the top and bottom frames with control; never let them snap together with fingers in between.
  • Train anyone nearby before letting them handle the hoop (especially in fast-paced batch work).
  • Success check: The hoop closes without finger contact in the gap, and handling feels controlled—not “slam shut.”
  • If it still fails… stop using the hoop until handling technique is corrected, and switch to slower, two-handed placement to eliminate pinch risk.