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Watch the video: “Tapestry and Yarn Needle Options (Comparison and Review)” by House Square
If you’ve ever wondered, “What size tapestry needle should I use to weave in my ends?”—you’re not alone. This review puts four common options head-to-head across fingering, worsted, and bulky yarns so you can choose the right needle with zero guesswork.
What you’ll learn
- How needle size numbers work (No. 13, 17, 20) and what they mean for yarn weights
- How blunt vs. sharp points affect splitting and stitch distortion
- Which needles performed best for fingering, worsted, and bulky yarns
- Budget-friendly picks and where each brand shines
Introduction to Tapestry and Yarn Needles There isn’t just one tapestry needle size. In fact, the video host tested multiple brands and types—including Clover, Dritz plastic needles, Dritz Yarn Darners, and a popular Amazon multi-pack—to see how each handled fingering, worsted, and bulky yarn. She also demonstrated how point sharpness and eye size factor into threading and weaving neatly.
Why Choose the Right Needle? Picking the right needle makes weaving in ends smoother, faster, and cleaner. Too large, and the needle distorts your stitches. Too sharp, and it splits your plies. Too dull (for tight gauges), and it won’t slide through the stitch path you want.
Understanding Needle Sizes Tapestry/darning needle sizes run opposite of knitting needle sizes: the smaller the number, the larger the needle. In this review, the key benchmarks are:
- No. 13: largest of the tested set
- No. 17: medium
- No. 20: smallest in the Clover set
Reviewing the Clover Darning Needle Set Sizes and Features Clover’s Darning Needle Set includes three sizes—No. 13, No. 17, and No. 20—with a compact case. The largest is nicely dull; the two smaller sizes are pointier but still suitable for knitting. Price noted in the video: $4.99 for the set at the time of purchase.
Performance with Different Yarn Weights
- Fingering: No. 20 works, especially with a threader; No. 17 also works and can be threaded without a tool. No. 13 is too large—it visibly stretches stitches when tested.
- Worsted: Works well with No. 17 and No. 13.
- Bulky: Use No. 13.
The host demonstrates No. 20 for fingering on a sock sample and notes when using a threader helps.
When the fabric is delicate or densely knit, the No. 20 is nimble while still avoiding yarn splitting.
For midweight yarns, No. 17 threads easily and glides through the structure without forcing.
Pros and Cons Pros
- Useful size variety (No. 20, 17, 13) covering lace/fingering through bulky
- Points and eyes that balance precision with a low risk of splitting
Cons
- Highest price among the tested options for only three needles
- You may not need the included case
Pro tip If you’re working a tight-gauge sock or lace panel, start with the smallest size that still threads comfortably. You can always size up if it feels too fiddly.
Exploring Dritz Plastic Sewing Needles Flexibility and Usability The Dritz plastic needles are flexible and have large, rounded points. That flexibility can be a downside for precise weaving, but they are cost-effective and can move bulky yarn through looser fabrics.
Yarn Weight Compatibility
- Fingering: Works, but the point is broad and may stretch stitches if you’re not careful.
- Worsted: Threads and weaves without trouble.
- Bulky: Also works.
Cost-Effectiveness This was the least expensive option in the review and therefore an accessible backup—even if you typically prefer metal. For many crafters, plastic’s extra bend can be a feature rather than a bug.
Watch out If your fabric is delicate or your gauge is tight, test a small area first to ensure the plastic needle won’t widen or distort the stitch path.
Analyzing Dritz Yarn Darners Sharpness and Its Implications These metal yarn darners are notably pointy across the size range. That sharpness can split yarn plies easily—especially with fingering weight—making them less-than-ideal for weaving in ends on knit or crochet fabric.
Recommended Uses Beyond Weaving Ends The host suggests these might be more appropriate for tasks like quilt ties or going through multiple layers of fabric where a sharp tip is an advantage.
Why Not for Weaving In? When you’re weaving ends in knit or crochet, you want the needle to slide between or along plies—not pierce them. The darner’s sharpness increases the risk of splitting and a fuzzy, less durable finish. In the side-by-side comparison, the darner’s point is noticeably sharper than the Clover needles and more precise than the rounded plastic option.
Quick check If you see split fibers or resistance as you weave, your needle may be too sharp or too large for the gauge. Switch to a blunter tip or a smaller size.
Testing the Amazon Yarn Needle Set Variety and Affordability This budget-friendly tube holds nine needles in three lengths; it doesn’t list exact sizes (unlike Clover) but offers useful variety. A few reviewers had mentioned tube breakage; the host’s arrived intact.
Performance with Heavier Yarns
- Fingering: The smallest needle felt too dull for tight stitches and fine navigation.
- Worsted: Threads through the smallest and medium sizes well.
- Bulky: Fits through all three sizes and glides without splitting.
For midweight yarns, the duller points are an asset—less chance of snagging or splitting plies.
Limitations for Fine Yarns For lace and tight sock fabrics, these blunt points struggle to follow narrow stitch paths. As a size reference, the set’s largest needle closely matches Clover’s No. 13 in size (length comparable, diameter similar); the medium is roughly like a No. 17 in length, with a slightly thinner shaft. There isn’t a direct counterpart to Clover’s No. 20.
From the comments A viewer shared a clever fix: if a needle is too sharp and keeps splitting yarn, gently dull the tip with a nail file. The host didn’t test this in the video, but the comment notes it worked well for them. Another viewer thanked the presenter for a beginner-friendly breakdown—proof that small differences in needle specs can make a big difference in ease and results.
Pros and Cons Recap for Amazon Set Pros
- Excellent value and multiple sizes for heavier yarns
- Dull tips and large eyes reduce splitting
Cons
- Not ideal for fingering/lace
- Storage tube may be fragile
Watch out If your project uses very tight stitches (like ribbed cuffs on socks), blunt needles may feel sluggish. In that case, switch to a smaller or slightly pointier tapestry needle that still won’t split the yarn.
Final Recommendations and Size Guide Best for Lighter Yarn Weights For lace and fingering weight, the host recommends the Clover set, particularly the No. 20 and No. 17. The No. 20 navigates tight spaces with minimal risk of splitting, and the No. 17 provides a great balance of control and eye size when a threader isn’t handy.
Best for Heavier Yarn Weights For DK, worsted, and bulky projects, the Amazon multi-pack is a strong, budget-friendly pick. The dull tips and generous eyes keep plies intact and make end-weaving quick and frustration-free.
Tapestry Needle Size Chart Use these size suggestions as a practical starting point (as stated in the video):
- Fingering/lace: around No. 20
- Sport/DK/worsted: No. 17 (No. 13 can work for worsted if fabric isn’t tight)
- Bulky and above: No. 13
If a brand doesn’t list size numbers (some don’t), compare by eye size and shaft thickness. Aim for the smallest tool that threads your yarn comfortably without stretching stitches.
Troubleshooting Guide
- Needle won’t pass through the path you want: Your needle may be too large or too dull for the gauge—try a smaller size, or a slightly pointier tapestry needle that’s still blunt enough not to split.
- Yarn keeps splitting: The needle is likely too sharp; switch to a blunter tip.
- Stitches look widened: Size down; an oversized needle can distort the fabric.
- Eye is too tight: Use a threader for finer yarns, or trim and twist the yarn end neatly before threading.
Budget vs. Performance
- Clover: Best overall for precision across sizes, especially for fine yarns. Pricier for three needles, but the mix of No. 20/17/13 is practical.
- Dritz plastic: Lowest cost and flexible; works for heavier yarns and looser fabrics but can feel imprecise for tight gauges.
- Dritz Yarn Darners: Too sharp for weaving in ends on knit/crochet; better for use cases that benefit from piercing power (e.g., tying quilts through layers).
- Amazon set: Outstanding value for DK and up; not a great match for fingering.
From the comments: shopping and availability
- A reader asked about availability in Nigeria. The video doesn’t specify where the featured products ship; availability will vary by retailer. If you’re shopping internationally, consider online craft stores that ship worldwide and compare local options for metal tapestry needles with blunt tips in sizes similar to No. 13–20.
Care and Storage
- Keep needles with your stitch markers or in a simple tin—no special case required unless it helps you stay organized.
- If your plastic tube cracks, migrate needles to a sturdier container.
Practical workflow for weaving in ends
- Choose your needle by yarn and fabric: small and precise for fine, tight knits; larger and duller for thicker, loftier fabrics.
- Thread the shortest tail you can comfortably work with for control.
- Weave along the stitch architecture rather than piercing plies.
- After weaving a few directions, stretch the fabric gently to settle the yarn and check that the fabric hasn’t been distorted.
Watch out Using a needle that’s too big for the fabric can stretch stitches and leave visible tracks—this effect was seen when the largest Clover needle (No. 13) was tested on fingering.
Pro tip If you’re between sizes, test on a swatch or an inside seam area first to feel how the needle moves through the fabric and identify splitting or distortion early.
A quick note for multi-craft makers Many knitters also dabble in other fiber arts. If you hop between knitting and machine embroidery, you already know tool choice matters just as much there. For reference when you’re switching crafts, you might see terms like magnetic embroidery hoop or brand-specific options such as bernina magnetic hoops or janome magnetic embroidery hoops when browsing machine accessories. It’s the same idea: match the tool to the material and task so it supports the fabric rather than fighting it.
If you own or are exploring machines, you may also run into general categories like magnetic hoops for embroidery and entry-level hardware listed as an embroidery machine for beginners. Keeping the right accessories at hand—needle sizes for yarn work, and appropriate hoops for fabric stabilization—makes each craft more enjoyable.
From brand ecosystems to everyday practice Some crafters alternate projects using a brother embroidery machine while also knitting garments. Your hands will thank you for adopting the same principle across crafts: choose the least aggressive tool that still does the job well. In knitting, that often means a blunt tapestry needle that’s sized correctly; in embroidery, it might mean a stable hoop or a specialized system like a mighty hoop when appropriate.
Wrap-up
- For fine yarns (fingering/lace): Clover’s No. 20 and No. 17 shine.
- For medium to heavy yarns (DK/worsted/bulky): the Amazon multi-pack is a budget-friendly workhorse.
- Skip pointy yarn darners for weaving in ends on knitted fabric; they split yarn.
- Plastic needles are affordable and workable for heavier yarns, but less precise in tight gauges.
The video’s bottom line is simple and actionable: match the needle to your yarn and fabric. When you do, weaving in ends becomes faster, cleaner, and far less frustrating.