YunFu Dahao Guide: Set Up Combined Chenille (Towel) + Chain Stitch Embroidery with Accurate Laser Positioning

Introduction to Mixed Chenille and Chain Stitching: Mastering the "Duo" Effect

Mixed-technique embroidery is where industrial machines truly earn their ROI. You get the crisp, defined lines of a chain stitch alongside the raised, velvety texture of chenille (towel stitch) in a single file—without the nightmare of manually re-hooping or guessing where the chenille head will land.

However, mixed machines are intimidating. They are larger, louder, and the Dahao control panel can feel like a cockpit. Fear not. In this guide, we break down a repeatable workflow demonstrated on a YunFu multi-head machine. We will cover frame selection, mode assignment (Chain vs. Towel), loop height settings (the "fluff factor"), and the critical laser positioning trick.

What you’ll learn (and what will save you from expensive mistakes):

• The "Safety Shift": How to physically align a massive sash frame before you even touch the screen.
• The "Brain" Setup: Configuring color blocks so the machine knows exactly when to Chain and when to Towel.
• The "Needle 1 Rule": Why pros always locate position using the standard head, even for chenille jobs.
• The "Border Walk": Using border check to prevent needle strikes and ruined garments.

If you are building a production business, your goal isn't just one good shirt—it's 500 identical ones. That requires a consistent embroidery frame strategy, a standardized setup routine, and the right tools to keep your fabric stable under the heavy stitching of chenille.

Part 1: Physical Prep & Frame Selection (The "Heavy Lifting")

Before you touch the digital screen, we must address physical reality. A large sash/border frame has mass, leverage, and significant "travel." If you begin setup with the frame sitting in the wrong zone, you waste time jogging and increase the risk of the frame hitting the machine arms.

Step 1 — The Physical Shift (Safety First)

Manually push the sash frame to the left side. This brings the working area closer to the normal (flat stitch) head.

• Sensory Check: The frame should move smoothly on its rails. If you hear grinding or feel resistance, stop. Check for obstructions or thread cones fallen into the pantograph area.
• Why do this? It aligns the machine’s specific "setup zone" with the flat head, making the subsequent laser positioning practical.

Step 2 — Digital Frame Selection

On the Dahao touchscreen, select the frame icon that matches your physical setup.

Critical Checkpoint: Look for the Green Indicator Light on the normal (flat) head.

• The Expert "Why": On mixed-head machines, the computer might be "logically" ready, but if the active head isn't the one you are looking at, your laser positioning will be offset by the distance between heads (parallax error).

Warning: Crush Hazard
Keep hands, sleeves, tools, and magnetic items clear of the sash frame path before any jog, border check, or start command. Large frames move fast and possess enough torque to pinch or strike with force. Treat the machine as "live" at all times.

Part 2: Configuring Stitch Modes (The "Brain")

This is the "make-or-break" section. The machine is blind; it strictly obeys the map you set here. If you don't tell it Index 2 is "Towel," it will try to run it as a flat stitch or chain, resulting in a mess.

Step 3 — Load & Orient

Select your design file (e.g., the "Fu" design). The system will ask about Direction Change. In this demo, we skip it as no rotation is needed.

Step 4 — Assign Stitch Mode per Color Index

The Dahao system uses color indices to switch techniques. You must map these to your specific design needs.

• Index 1 (White): Set to Chain. (Crisp outline).
• Index 2 (Green): Set to Towel. (Chenille texture).
• Index 3: Set to Towel.
• The "Click" Moment: When navigating the menu, ensure you actually confirm the selection. A common mistake is highlighting "Towel" but backing out without pressing Enter/Confirm.
• Production Tip: Ensure your on-screen color sequence (A, B, C...) matches your physical thread stand. If Index 1 is White Chain, make sure the White Chain thread is threaded into the correct needle bar.

Part 3: Setting Loop Heights (The "Texture")

Loop height determines how "puffy" or raised your chenille is. It is one of the few parameters that directly changes the tactile feel of the result.

Step 5 — Enter the Magic Number "3"

• Process: For Index 1 (Chain) and Index 2/3 (Towel), the operator inputs 3.
• Expert Context: "3" is a standard Beginner Sweet Spot.
  • Lower numbers (1-2): Tighter, lower profile, less risk of snagging.
  • Higher numbers (4-6): Fluffier, more 3D, but requires significantly better fabric stability.

The Stability Factor: Chenille puts heavy drag on fabric. If your fabric isn't held drum-tight, a loop height of 3 will look inconsistent (some loops tall, some short). This is where your choice of embroidery hooping system matters. Hand-tightened hoops often loosen under chenille vibration.

Pro Tip: If you notice your loops looking "messy" or uneven despite correct settings, do not just change the number. Check your hooping. If the fabric feels loose (like a deflated balloon), you need better stabilization or a tighter grip—often a scenario where upgrading to a magnetic hoop solves the issue instantly by providing uniform clamping pressure.

Part 4: Precision Positioning (The "Laser Trick")

This is the most valuable takeaway from the video. Ignore the Chenille Head for positioning.

Step 6 — The Needle 1 Rule

Use the Dahao arrow keys to move the frame. Align the Red Laser Dot of Needle 1 (the normal flat head) with your desired starting point/center on the fabric.

• Why? The machine calculates offsets internally. If you try to eyeball position using the bulky chenille head, you will likely be off-center. Needle 1 is the universal "Zero Point" for the logic board.
• Success Metric: The red laser dot sits exactly where you want the design center.

Part 5: The "Border Check" & Execution

The "Border Check" (Trace) is your insurance policy. Never skip it.

Step 7 — Run "Check a Border"

Press the Border Check icon. The machine will trace the design's bounding box.

The Sensory Checklist:

1. Watch: Does the laser stay on the fabric/backing the entire time?
2. Listen: Do you hear any plastic-on-metal clicks? (That’s the hoop clips hitting the presser foot—STOP immediately if you hear this).
3. Check: Is there enough clearance?

Step 8 — Green Button GO

Press Start. The machine should automatically switch heads and begin stitching.

Prep (Pre-Flight Checks)

Success happens before you press start. Chenille is unforgiving of poor preparation.

Hidden Consumables & Risk Mitigation

• Stabilizer: Use a heavy cutaway for mixed media. Tearaway is rarely strong enough for chenille tension.
• Needles: Ensure you are using high-speed needles (e.g., Organ or Groz-Beckert) appropriate for the fabric weight.
• Holding Method: When comparing machine embroidery hoops, remember that slippage = ruined chenille. If you struggle to keep thick items (like hoodies) secure, standard plastic hoops may fail you.

Prep Checklist

• Physical Clean: No loose threads or tools in the sash frame area.
• Needle Check: Needle 1 is straight and sharp (run your fingernail down the tip to check for burrs).
• Thread Map: Physical thread colors match the A-F sequence on screen.
• Backing: Stabilizer is fully hooped and covers the entire trace area.

Setup (The Digital Handshake)

Make the machine's brain match reality.

Setup Checklist

• Frame selection on Dahao matches the installed frame.
• Green Light is active on the Normal Head.
• Stitch Mode Index 1 = Chain; Index 2 = Towel (verified).
• Loop Height = 3 (verified for all chenille tech layers).
• Direction/Rotation setting is correct (skipped or set).

Operation (The Pilot's Routine)

Run it like a pilot, not a gambler.

Operation Checklist

• Laser Lock: Position confirmed using Needle 1 (Red Dot).
• Border Trace: Completed fully without hitting clips or exiting fabric.
• Auditory Check: Machine started with a smooth rhythm, no grinding noises during head switching.
• Visual Check: First 100 stitches adhered correctly (no birdnesting).

Troubleshooting Guide (Diagnose & Fix)

Decision Logic: When to Upgrade Your Tools?

You can follow this guide perfectly and still struggle if your physical tools aren't up to the task of production runs.

1. The "Hoop Burn" Struggle: If you spend 5 minutes steaming out hoop marks after every job, you are losing money.

• Solution: Magnetic Hoops. They hold fabric firmly without the friction-burn of traditional plastic rings.

2. The "Thick Fabric" Fight: Chenille looks best on sweatshirts and jackets. If you are wrestling to close a standard hoop over a Carhartt jacket:

• Solution: Search for embroidery hoops magnetic compatible with your machine. The magnets self-adjust to thickness, saving your wrists and the hoop screws.

3. The Setup Bottleneck: If loading and measuring takes longer than stitching:

• Solution: A hooping station. It standardizes placement so you don't have to "eyeball" the center every time.

Warning: Magnetic Safety
If you choose to upgrade to magnetic frames, handle them with extreme care. They are industrial tools with powerful pinch force. Keep them away from pacemakers, and never place fingers between the magnets.

By mastering the Needle 1 positioning rule and securing your stitch modes correctly, you turn a complex mixed-media machine into a reliable workhorse. Happy stitching