Used Bernina 700 (B 700) Overview: The Buttons, the Yellow Bobbin Case, and the Smart Buying Checklist

If you’re shopping for a used embroidery machine, you’re usually trying to answer two questions fast: “Will it actually do what I need?” and “Will it behave when I push it?” The Bernina 700 (B 700) is a very specific kind of tool—embroidery-only—and that’s exactly why many quilters and embroidery folks love it.

In the video, Jarret from Red Roxy Quilt Company shows two serviced used B 700 units and walks through the features that matter in real use: what comes in the box, why the yellow high-tension bobbin case exists, and which buttons on the head save you from the most common placement mistakes.

Calm the Panic: What the Bernina 700 (B 700) *Is* (and What It Isn’t) Before You Spend a Dollar

The Bernina 700 looks like a Bernina you’ve seen in a shop—but it’s not a “regular sewing machine with embroidery added.” Jarret is clear: the B 700 is embroidery only, meaning it won’t do specialty zigzag stitches and similar sewing functions. Instead, it’s built around embroidery projects, including things like tiling scenes and even quilting with the quilt held in the hoop.

That distinction matters because it changes how you judge value:

• If you want one machine to sew garments and occasionally embroider, an embroidery-only platform can feel limiting.
• If you want a machine that lives in “stitch-out mode” (monograms, names on towels, quilt blocks in-the-hoop), embroidery-only can be a strength—less compromise, more focus.

One more practical note from the video: these used machines were serviced and updated with the latest firmware so they can use newer Bernina hoops.

The “Hidden” Prep Pros Do First: Inspect the Used Bernina 700 Package Like a Technician, Not a Tourist

A used machine can be a bargain or a headache—often determined by what’s included and how you verify it.

Jarret states what comes with the used B 700 package he’s showing:

• The embroidery module
• Three different sized hoops
• A high-tension bobbin case (the yellow one)

That’s the foundation. Now here’s the experienced-buyer layer: before you fall in love with the screen and the brand name, do a quick “bench check” mindset.

What I’d personally look for (general best practice—confirm with your manual and dealer):

• Hoop condition: Look for stress fractures near the tightening screw. The inner ring should be perfectly round, not oval.
• Module connection: It should seat firmly with a satisfying mechanical engagement—no wobble, no bent pins.
• Bobbin case condition: Run your fingernail along the metal edge. If you feel a catch or burr, it will shred thread.
• Needle area cleanliness: Remove the needle plate. Heavy lint buildup here hints at neglected maintenance.

If you’re comparing listings like a used embroidery machine for sale, treat “includes hoops + module + specialty bobbin case” as a meaningful value marker, because replacing missing accessories on high-end European machines adds up fast.

Prep Checklist (before you even thread it)

• Verify Identity: Confirm the machine is truly Bernina 700 (B 700) embroidery-only (not a different model number).
• Inventory Check: Verify the package includes: module + 3 hoops + yellow high-tension bobbin case.
• Electronics Test: Power on and touch the screen in corners and center to confirm responsive calibration.
• Physical Inspection: Check the hoop rings and latches for cracks or distortion.
• Burr Check: Run a cotton swab inside the bobbin hook area; if cotton snags, there is a burr.
• Service History: Ask what “serviced” included and when it was done (then follow your own service schedule).
  

The Yellow High-Tension Bobbin Case on the Bernina 700: The Small Part That Prevents Big Stitch Regrets

Jarret holds up the yellow bobbin case and explains the key point: it’s tensioned a little bit higher so you can embroider at faster speeds without the stitches “showing up” the way they might with a standard black bobbin case.

Here’s the practical translation from the shop floor:

• The Physics of Speed: Embroidery runs fast (often 600-1000 stitches per minute). At these speeds, the top thread whips violently.
• The Tension Balance: Higher bobbin tension pulls the top thread firmly to the underside. Ideally, you want to see 1/3 white bobbin thread down the center of your satin column on the back.
• The Result: This prevents "railroading" (where bobbin thread shows on top) and keeps lettering crisp.

Warning: Always power off and keep fingers clear of the needle area when changing needles, cleaning near the hook/bobbin zone, or swapping bobbin cases—needle strikes and sudden starts can cause serious injury.

Pro tip (experience-based): If your stitch balance suddenly looks “off” after switching bobbin cases, don’t chase tension blindly.

1. The "Click" Test: Insert the bobbin into the case. pull the thread. It should feel like pulling dental floss—smooth resistance, not loose.
2. The Case Seat: Ensure the case snaps into the hook race with an audible click. If it's silent, it's not seated, and you will break a needle.
   

Faceplate “Muscle Memory”: Use the Bernina 700 Light Button and Parking Buttons to Save Time (and Your Sanity)

Jarret points out something that trips up many Bernina users moving between sewing and embroidery: on the B 700, where you might expect a backstitch button, you’ll find controls that matter for embroidery workflow.

Light toggle (fast visibility control)

He highlights the light on/off button as a quick way to change brightness without digging through menus—especially helpful when you’re trying to orient a hoop and don’t want intense light blasting your eyes or reflecting off shiny stabilizers.

Parking buttons (access and repositioning)

He also shows the two parking buttons used for hoop movement—handy when you need to move the design position or get access to the bobbin area.

This is one of those “tiny” features that becomes huge in daily use: every time you avoid menu-diving or awkward reaching, you reduce mistakes and fatigue.

Pattern Check on the Bernina 700: The Button That Prevents Hoop Collisions and “It Doesn’t Fit” Heartbreak

Jarret calls out the pattern check button and explains why it matters: if your design might be larger than your hoop, the machine can trace over the entirety of the hoop area to confirm the design will fit.

In real production terms, pattern checking is cheap insurance:

• It helps you catch placement errors before you waste stabilizer, thread, and time.
• It reduces the risk of a design stitching too close to the hoop edge (or hitting the frame, which can throw off timing).

Watch out (common user mistake): People skip pattern check because they’re excited to stitch. Then they discover the design is rotated wrong, shifted, or too close to the edge—usually after the first color is already down.

Visual Anchor: Watch the needle bar (without the needle down) trace the extreme corners of your design. If it looks like it's within 5mm of the plastic hoop edge, stop and re-center.

Pinpoint Placement + Pattern Centering on the Bernina 700: Get Professional Alignment Without Guessing

Jarret points to two especially useful controls on the side: pinpoint placement and pattern centering.

These features are all about repeatability—getting the design exactly where you intended, not where the hoop “happened to land.” If you do names on towels, monograms, or quilt blocks, placement consistency is what separates “homemade” from “shop-quality.”

If you’re building a workflow around bernina embroidery machines, these placement tools are the kind of daily-use features that quietly pay you back every week by reducing the number of garments you ruin due to crooked alignment.

Quilting, Blankets, Towels on the Bernina 700: Stabilizer Choices That Keep Fabric Flat and Stitches Clean

Jarret mentions that many folks use the B 700 for quilting by putting the quilt in the hoop and quilting with it. He also mentions monogramming and embroidering names on blankets or towels.

Those substrates behave very differently under stitch stress:

• Quilts: High drag + bulk.
• Blankets: Stretch + plush pile.
• Towels: Loops that snag + sinking stitches.

Because the video implies stabilizer but doesn’t specify types, here’s a general decision tree you can use as a starting point.

Stabilizer Decision Tree (Quilts / Blankets / Towels)

1. Is the fabric thick or layered (like a quilt sandwich)?
   • Yes: Start with a firm tear-away or polymesh cut-away. The batting acts as a stabilizer, so you don't need heavy backing, just drag reduction.
   • No: Go to step 2.
2. Is the fabric stretchy, plush, or likely to shift (knits, minky, fleece blankets)?
   • Yes: You MUST use a Cut-Away stabilizer. Tear-away will result in successful stitching but distorted gaps once the stabilizer is removed. Sensory check: The hoop should feel tight like a drum, but don't stretch the fabric.
   • No: Go to step 3.
3. Is the surface loopy or high-pile (towels/terry cloth)?
   • Yes: Add a Water Soluble Topper (Solvy) on top. This acts as a platform so stitches sit on the loops, not in them. Pair with a tear-away backing for standard woven towels.
   • No: A standard tear-away may be sufficient for stable woven fabrics (like denim or canvas).

Pro tip from the field: When you see puckering, most people blame tension first. More often, it’s hooping pressure + stabilizer mismatch + fabric distortion. Fix the foundation before you touch tension.

If you’re fighting hoop marks ("hoop burn") on delicate velvet or plush towels, upgrading to a bernina magnetic embroidery hoop is often the professional solution. It uses magnetic force rather than friction to hold fabric, eliminating the ring marks that are impossible to iron out.

Setup That Doesn’t Waste Thread: Hoops, Orientation, and a Hooping Station That Actually Helps

The video confirms you’ll receive three hoops with the machine. That’s great—multiple hoop sizes let you match the hoop to the design instead of forcing everything into one frame.

Now the experienced setup layer:

• Hoop Sizing: Use the smallest hoop that fits the design. Less open fabric = less "flagging" (bouncing) = sharper stitches.
• Grid Use: Use the plastic grid template included with hoops to align your grainline before you lock the hoop.

If you do a lot of repetitive hooping (towels, blanket corners, quilt blocks), a hooping station for embroidery machine can improve consistency and reduce wrist strain—especially when you’re trying to keep grainlines straight and placement repeatable.

And if hooping is the bottleneck, many shops move toward magnetic embroidery hoops because they can be faster to load and kinder to thick or awkward items. For home single-needle users, magnetic frames can also reduce clamp marks and the “I can’t get this tight enough” struggle.

Warning: Magnetic Hazard. Magnetic hoops use industrial strength magnets (Neodymium). Keep them away from pacemakers/implanted medical devices. Keep fingers clear when snapping them together (pinch hazard), and store them away from children and sensitive electronics.

Setup Checklist (before the first stitch)

• Hoop Selection: Choose the smallest hoop that fits with a margin.
• Needle Check: Is the needle fresh? (Change every 8 hours of stitching).
• Consumables: Have you added a topper for pile fabrics? Used spray adhesive if floating?
• Mounting: Lock the hoop onto the module arm. Give it a gentle wiggle to ensure it's engaged.
• Pattern Check: Run the trace function to verify the needle won't hit the frame.
• Bobbin Check: Ensure you have enough bobbin thread to complete the color block.

Operation Rhythm on the Bernina 700: Speed Control, Start/Stop, and When to Slow Down on Purpose

Jarret notes the rest of the machine is fairly standard: semi-automatic threader, speed control, start/stop, and bobbin winder.

Here’s the operator mindset that prevents most “mystery problems”:

• The "Sweet Spot" Speed: Just because the B 700 can go 1000 SPM doesn't mean it should. For most metallic threads or delicate knits, drop to 600-800 SPM.
• Listen to the Machine: A healthy embroidery machine has a rhythmic "thump-thump-thump." If you hear a grinding, slapping, or a sharp "snap," hit STOP immediately.
• Start Slow: Set the speed slider to 50% for the first 100 stitches to ensure the thread tails are caught and the fabric isn't shifting.

This is where the yellow high-tension bobbin case earns its keep: it’s meant to support cleaner results at higher embroidery speeds, but speed is still a tool—not a requirement.

Operation Checklist (during stitch-out)

• Thread Path: Confirm the thread is not caught on the spool pin or pooling at the base.
• The First Layer: Watch the underlay stitching closely. If it buckles the fabric, stop and re-hoop.
• Sound Check: Listen for that rhythmic stitch sound.
• Access: Use parking buttons if you need to trim a jump stitch or check the bobbin.
• Emergency Stop: If placement looks wrong, stop early—re-hooping after 2,000 stitches looks messy; re-hooping after 20 stitches is invisible.

Pricing, Service Habits, and the “Red Card” Angle: How to Think Like a Shop Owner Even If You’re a Hobbyist

Jarret explains the store’s Red Card program: buying a machine (new or used) gets you a card that provides 20% off threads, fabric, kits, or Bernina accessories, with the condition that you bring the machine back every year for service to keep the card updated. He also mentions a 25% off offer on other accessories/products at the time of purchase and advises having your list ready.

He states the used B 700 price as $3,499 in the video summary (note: the transcript ends with “34.99,” a common shorthand).

My practical take (general business logic):

• A discount program only helps if you already buy consumables regularly.
• Maintenance is ROI: Embroidery machines are high-vibration devices. Screws loosen, timing slips. Annual service is not just for the discount; it ensures that when you press "Go," the machine actually goes.
  

The Upgrade Path When Hooping Becomes the Bottleneck: From Standard Bernina Hoops to Magnetic Frames (and Beyond)

Most people don’t outgrow a machine first—they outgrow their workflow.

If you’re doing occasional projects, the included hoops and the B 700’s placement tools may be all you need. But if you start doing batches (team towels, quilt labels, name sets), hooping speed and repeatability become the choke point.

Here’s a clean “tool upgrade” way to think about it: 1) Level 1 - Speed Up Loading: If hooping is slow or leaves marks, consider Bernina-compatible magnetic options such as bernina magnetic hoops to reduce clamp pressure and speed up loading. 2) Level 2 - Ease of Use: If you want the feel of a quick clamp-on frame, some users look for a bernina snap hoop style experience to simplify thick items and reduce re-hooping. 3) Level 3 - Production Scale: If you take an order for 50 shirts, a single-needle machine will become painful due to constant thread changes. This is where moving to a multi-needle platform (like SEWTECH models) becomes the logical business step—fewer thread changes, faster turnaround, and higher profitability.

If you’re the kind of buyer who often searches for embroidery hoops for sale near me, make sure you’re comparing not just price, but compatibility, hoop size range, and how the hooping method affects fabric distortion and operator fatigue.

Quick Reality Check: What This Bernina 700 Video Covers (and What You Should Test Yourself)

This video is a clear overview of the B 700’s identity and the controls that matter:

• Embroidery-only positioning
• Included module and hoops
• Yellow high-tension bobbin case purpose
• Light toggle, parking buttons, pattern check
• Pinpoint placement and pattern centering
• Store pricing and discount/service program

What it doesn’t show (so you should test before committing, if possible):

• A full stitch-out on your typical fabric (towel vs quilt vs blanket).
• How your preferred thread behaves at 1000 SPM vs 600 SPM.
• How stable your hooping method is for bulky items.

If you do those tests and build good habits around placement checks and stabilizer choices, the B 700 can be a very satisfying embroidery-only workhorse—especially for quilters who want clean, repeatable results without wrestling a “do-everything” machine.

FAQ

• Q: What should be included in a serviced used Bernina 700 (B 700) package to avoid expensive missing parts?
  A: A safe baseline is the embroidery module, three hoops, and the yellow high-tension bobbin case—missing any of these can erase the “deal.”
  • Confirm the box includes: embroidery module + 3 hoop sizes + yellow high-tension bobbin case
  • Inspect hoop rings for cracks near the tightening screw and check the inner ring is round (not oval)
  • Power on and touch-test the screen (corners + center) for normal responsiveness
  • Success check: the module seats firmly with no wobble, and the machine boots and responds consistently to touch
  • If it still fails… ask for documented service/firmware update details or plan a dealer inspection before buying
• Q: How do I inspect a used Bernina 700 (B 700) bobbin area for burrs that cause thread shredding?
  A: Do a quick burr check before stitching—tiny nicks in the hook/bobbin area can shred thread fast.
  • Remove the needle plate and look for heavy lint buildup (a neglect clue)
  • Run a cotton swab around the hook/bobbin zone where thread passes
  • Clean lint before testing tension so results aren’t misleading
  • Success check: the cotton swab glides without snagging and thread doesn’t fray during a short test run
  • If it still fails… stop stitching and have the burr addressed; continuing may break needles and worsen damage
• Q: Why does the Bernina yellow high-tension bobbin case help prevent bobbin thread showing on top at higher speed?
  A: Use the yellow high-tension bobbin case for embroidery when you want cleaner stitch balance at speed—it is tensioned higher to pull top thread to the underside.
  • Install the yellow case and avoid “chasing tension” immediately after swapping cases
  • Do the “click” test: pull bobbin thread and feel smooth resistance (not loose, not jerky)
  • Seat the bobbin case fully until an audible click so it locks correctly
  • Success check: on the design back, satin columns show a clean bobbin line centered (often described as about 1/3 bobbin thread down the middle)
  • If it still fails… re-check case seating first; an unseated case can cause needle breaks and messy stitches
• Q: How do I use Bernina 700 (B 700) Pattern Check to prevent hoop collisions and “design doesn’t fit” mistakes?
  A: Run Pattern Check every time placement or hoop size is uncertain—it is cheap insurance against frame hits and wasted stabilizer.
  • Activate Pattern Check/trace and watch the needle path reach the extreme corners of the design area
  • Stop and re-center if the trace looks too close to the hoop edge
  • Treat any near-edge trace as a placement risk before stitching color 1
  • Success check: the traced extremes stay comfortably inside the hoop boundary (if it looks within ~5 mm of the hoop edge, re-position)
  • If it still fails… switch to a larger hoop or reduce/rotate the design before restarting
• Q: What stabilizer setup is a safe starting point for Bernina 700 (B 700) embroidery on quilts vs blankets vs towels?
  A: Match stabilizer to fabric behavior first—most puckering comes from hooping pressure + stabilizer mismatch, not top tension.
  • Use firm tear-away or polymesh cut-away for quilted/layered work as a starting point (batting already adds support)
  • Use cut-away for stretchy or plush blankets (knits, minky, fleece) to prevent distortion after removal
  • Add a water-soluble topper on towels/terry so stitches sit on loops, not sink in; pair with suitable backing for the towel type
  • Success check: fabric stays flat during underlay and the finished area doesn’t ripple after unhooping
  • If it still fails… re-hoop without stretching the fabric and adjust stabilizer choice before touching tension
• Q: What is a safe operating speed approach on the Bernina 700 (B 700) to reduce thread breaks and “mystery noise” issues?
  A: Start slower and listen—speed is a tool, not a requirement, even though the B 700 can run fast.
  • Set speed to about 50% for the first ~100 stitches so thread tails are captured and fabric doesn’t shift
  • Reduce speed for metallic thread or delicate knits (often 600–800 SPM is a safer range)
  • Hit STOP immediately if you hear grinding, slapping, or a sharp snap instead of a steady rhythmic stitch sound
  • Success check: the machine sounds consistent (“thump-thump-thump”) and the first underlay does not buckle the fabric
  • If it still fails… re-check thread path snags and hooping stability before assuming tension is the cause
• Q: What safety steps should I follow when changing needles or working near the Bernina 700 (B 700) hook/bobbin area?
  A: Power off and keep fingers clear—needle strikes and sudden starts can cause serious injury.
  • Turn the machine off before changing needles, cleaning near the hook, or swapping bobbin cases
  • Use parking buttons to move the hoop to a safe access position when needed (instead of forcing your hand into tight spaces)
  • Keep your face and hands out of the needle line-of-fire while testing movement functions
  • Success check: you can access the bobbin/needle area without the machine moving unexpectedly and without forcing parts
  • If it still fails… stop and consult the machine manual/dealer for the correct access procedure before continuing
• Q: When hooping becomes the bottleneck on a Bernina 700 (B 700), how should I choose between technique changes, magnetic hoops, or upgrading to a multi-needle machine?
  A: Diagnose the bottleneck first, then escalate in levels—technique, then tools, then capacity.
  • Level 1 (technique): use the smallest hoop that fits and rely on grids + Pattern Check to reduce re-hoops and placement waste
  • Level 2 (tool): consider magnetic hoops if clamp pressure causes hoop burn or thick items are slow and frustrating to load
  • Level 3 (capacity): consider a multi-needle machine when orders/batches make constant thread changes the real time-killer
  • Success check: hooping time drops, placement becomes repeatable, and ruined items from misalignment decrease week to week
  • If it still fails… track where time is lost (hooping vs thread changes vs rework) and upgrade the step that is actually limiting output