A Clean ITH Vinyl Coin Holder on a Husqvarna Viking: Two-Hoop Method, No Hoop Burn, and a Pro Finish

vinyl ITH (In-The-Hoop) projects look deceptively simple—until you get a wavy window, a shifted seam, or that permanent “hoop burn” ring that never quite relaxes out of the material.

As someone who has overseen thousands of hours of embroidery production, I see vinyl as a "high-friction" material. It grips the needle, it heats up under friction, and it refuses to heal if you poke a hole in the wrong spot.

This coin holder is genuinely beginner-friendly, but it rewards experienced preparation. The video demonstrates a two-hoop ITH method: Hoop 1 builds the front window panel, Hoop 2 builds the back body, and then you tape the finalized Hoop 1 piece to the back side of Hoop 2 to stitch the assembly together.

The “Nothing Will Fall Out” Coin Trap: What This ITH Vinyl Coin Holder Actually Does (and Why It Works)

The geometry of this holder relies on a "coin trap" lip. Coins sit in one chamber, and when folded, the tension of the vinyl prevents them from spilling out. In the video, the maker demonstrates the "shake test"—sliding a finger into the inner lip area and tipping it; the coins catch securely in the pocket.

From an engineering perspective, material stiffness is the variable that changes the functionality here:

• Upholstery Vinyl: Soft feel, easier to fold, but requires careful stabilization to prevent stretching.
• Marine Vinyl: Stiffer, creates a tighter "trap," but is harder for domestic machines to penetrate without skipping stitches.

The Machine variable: If you’re running this on a husqvarna embroidery machine, or a similar domestic model (Brother, Bernina), you are in the "sweet spot" for hoop size, but you must manage the presser foot height. Domestic machines often have lower clearance than commercial multi-needles. If your foot drags on the vinyl, the layers will shift.

The “Hidden” Prep That Prevents Vinyl Shifting: Upholstery/Marine Vinyl + Oly-Fun + Tape

The video keeps the supply list simple, but let's break down the physics of why these specific materials work together. Vinyl is non-woven; it doesn't have a grain line to hold it straight.

The "No-Fail" Supply List:

• Vinyl: Marine Vinyl (preferred for structure) or high-quality Upholstery Vinyl. Avoid "Craft Vinyl" (sticker type) or Cricut HTV—they lack the structural integrity for a coin purse.
• Stabilizer: Oly-Fun or a specialized Poly-Mesh Cutaway. The video uses Oly-Fun because it is thin but strong. Tear-away is forbidden here—it will perforate and the purse will fall apart.
• Adhesion: Painter’s Tape (Blue or Green). Do not use clear Scotch tape (leaves residue on the needle) or Duct tape (ruins the vinyl).
• Hardware: Snaps (Size 20 or similar metal snaps), Eyelets/Grommets (with washers).
• Hidden Consumables (The things beginners forget):
  • Titanium Needles (75/11 or 90/14): Vinyl dulls steel needles instantly. Titanium resists heat and glue buildup.
  • Lighter: To seal synthetic thread ends.
  • Rubbing Alcohol: To clean the needle if adhesive gumming occurs.
    

Why Oly-Fun works here (the practical physics)

Vinyl can "creep." As the needle penetrates, the material pushes away rather than piercing cleanly. Oly-Fun acts as a friction layer. It adds grip between the vinyl and the hoop/throat plate, preventing the design from distorting into an oval.

In production terms: you are stabilizing the movement, not just the stitches.

Tool-upgrade path (when hooping vinyl starts to annoy you)

If you find yourself fighting "hoop burn" (the permanent ring left by standard hoops on vinyl), that is the trigger point to consider a magnetic embroidery hoop. In professional shops, magnetic frames are the standard for non-hoopable or sensitive materials. They clap down with vertical force rather than friction-pulling, eliminating the "burn" ring entirely.

Warning: Cutting vinyl in-the-hoop is a blade-and-fingers situation. Keep your non-cutting hand strictly out of the knife path. Always cut on a stable surface (remove the hoop from the machine, place it on a flat table). Never rush the X-Acto work—one slip can damage you and slice the stabilizer, ruining the registration for the next step.

Prep Checklist (do this before you thread the machine)

• Needle Check: Install a fresh needle. Use a 75/11 Sharp for standard vinyl or a 90/14 Topstitch for Marine Vinyl.
• Bobbin Check: Ensure you have enough bobbin thread for the entire heavy satin stitch. Stopping mid-satin stitch on vinyl leaves a visible knot.
• Blade Check: Snap the tip off your X-Acto knife. A dull blade drags vinyl; a sharp blade glides.
• Consumables: Locate your lighter and painter's tape now, not while the machine is beeping.
  

Hoop 1 on the Standard Embroidery Hoop: Build the Front Window Panel Without Wrinkles

Hoop 1 is where the window is created. This is the most delicate part of the process because any wrinkling here essentially scraps the project.

What happens in Hoop 1 (The Sequence)

1. Hoop the Stabilizer: Hoop the Oly-Fun/Cutaway drum-tight. Sensory Check: Tap it. It should sound like a dull drum (doom-doom), not a loose rattle.
2. Placement Stitch: Run Color Stop 1 directly on the stabilizer.
3. Tack-Down: Place the vinyl rectangle over the outline. Tape the corners. Run Color Stop 2.
   • Pro Tip: Smooth the vinyl from the center out before taping to ensure no air acts as a bubble.
4. Window Stitching: The machine runs the inner window die-line and the decorative border (Triple Bean).
   

Checkpoints (so you know you’re on track)

• Visual: After the placement stitch, you should see a high-contrast outline on the stabilizer.
• Tactile: After taping, the vinyl should be flat. If you push it, it should not ripple.
• Audio: Listen to the machine during the Triple Bean stitch. If it sounds laboring (thug-thug-thug), slow your speed down. Recommended Speed: 400 - 600 SPM for vinyl. High speed causes friction heat, which melts the vinyl around the thread.

Expected outcome

A neatly stitched window area with a distinct inner cut line and a heavy outer border. The vinyl should be flat, not "cupped."

The Clean Window Cut: Use the X-Acto Knife Just Outside the Inner Stitch Line

This cut determines the perceived quality of the finished goods. A jagged edge looks amateur; a smooth edge looks factory-made.

What the video does

• The project stays in the hoop. Do not pop the vinyl out.
• The cut removes the center vinyl to create the window.
  

Pro tip: The "Floating Hand" Technique

Don't press hard. Vinyl cuts easily. Hold the knife like a pen, anchor your pinky finger on the hoop frame for stability, and use light pressure. Cut 1mm inside the stitch line.

• Too close: You sever the thread.
• Too far: You leave a messy flap.

If you see fraying inside the window

The video notes that Oly-Fun or backing can fray slightly. Sensory Fix: Use the blue part of a lighter flame (the base, not the tip) to quickly pass over the fuzz. It will shrivel and disappear instantly.

Warning: If you use a lighter, keep the flame moving constantly. Vinyl softens at low temperatures. You want to "kiss" the fraying fibers, not heat the vinyl. If the vinyl turns glossy or warps, you got too close.

Unhoop and Trim Hoop 1: Cut Close, But Don’t Break the Seam

The window panel is done. Remove it from the hoop. Tear away excess stabilizer gently, but leave the stabilizer inside the stitched area for structure.

What the video emphasizes

• Step 1: Use scissors to trim the outer perimeter.
• Step 2: Crucial: Step back from the stitch line. Leave about 1/8th inch (3mm) or slightly less.
• Why? If you cut flush to the stitches, the threads will unravel when you manipulate the piece later.
  

Hoop 2 on the 80x130 Stitching Area: Build the Back Body Fast (Three Color Stops)

Hoop 2 establishes the main body of the wallet. Speed up here—this part is straightforward.

The Sequence

1. Fresh Hoop: New stabilizer in the hoop.
2. Placement Stitch: Shows you where the back vinyl goes.
3. Vinyl Placement: Tape the back vinyl (face up) over the placement line.
4. Felt Backing (Optional): The video mentions turning the hoop over to add felt on the back side for a softer interior. If you do this, tape it securely!
5. Tack-Down: The machine stitches the "peanut" shape.
   

Setup Checklist (before you flip the hoop)

• Placement stitch is clearly visible.
• Vinyl edges extend at least 1/2 inch past the placement line on all sides.
• Clearance Check: Turn the handwheel manually for one needle drop to ensure your presser foot isn't catching on the tape.
• If you added felt on the bottom, verify it hasn't curled up near the throat plate.

The ITH “Back-of-Hoop” Secret: Align Hoop 1 to Hoop 2 Without Taping Over Stitch Lines

This is the "Magic Trick" of ITH construction. You are floating the first piece underneath the active hoop.

What the video does

1. Remove Hoop 2 from the machine (keep stabilizer hooped).
2. Flip the hoop upside down.
3. Take the finished piece from Hoop 1 (Window Panel).
4. Align it Face Down (so the nice side of Hoop 1 faces away from the stabilizer).
5. Critical Alignment: Match the curved outline of Hoop 1 to the stitched outline on Hoop 2's stabilizer.
   
   
   

Watch out (The "Drift" Effect)

Gravity is your enemy here. As you carry the hoop back to the machine, the tape can slip.

• Secure Taping: Use long strips of tape. Tape the edges of the Hoop 1 piece to the stabilizer.
• No Fly Zone: Do not place tape where the final needle path will go. Sewing through tape leaves gummy adhesive on your needle, which causes thread shredding immediately.

Why alignment is so unforgiving (and how to make it easier)

If you are doing production runs of 50+ wallets, manual taping is slow and prone to error. This is where professionals use a specific workflow. A hooping station for embroidery machine allows you to jig the hoop in place while you align the bottom piece, ensuring specific x/y coordinates every time.

The Final Triple Bean Stitch: Seal the Coin Pouch and Let the Machine Do the Heavy Work

Return the hoop to the machine. Ensure the bottom piece (Hoop 1) slides smoothly onto the free arm or flatbed without catching on the feed dogs or bobbin cover.

What the video stitches

The machine runs a heavy Triple Bean Stitch around the perimeter. This sews through:

1. Top Vinyl (Hoop 2)
2. Stabilizer
3. Felt (Optional)
4. Bottom Vinyl (Hoop 1)
   

Sensory check (machine health habit)

This is a thick stack. Listen: A rhythmic "thump-thump" is normal. A sharp "crack" or "bang" means your needle is deflecting. Action: If you hear a bang, stop immediately. Check if the needle hit a snap or a thick seam. If using a domestic machine, help the vinyl feed by gently (very gently) supporting the weight of the hoop, but do not push it.

The “Between Two Stitch Lines” Cut: The One Trim That Makes the Edge Look Factory-Clean

Remove the final project. You will see two stitch lines on the outer edge.

The "Between-the-Lines" Technique

• Visual Target: Identify the 2mm channel between the inner structural stitch and the outer decorative stitch.
• The Cut: Use sharp embroidery scissors (curved tip helps). Cut exactly in the center of that channel.
• Result: This creates a sealed, burnished edge that won't delaminate.
  

Operation Checklist (before you install hardware)

• Perimeter Check: Squeeze the edges. Are there any gaps where the stitching missed the floating piece?
• Pocket Check: Slide your finger into the coin trap. Is it open? (If not, you may have taped it shut).
• Tape Removal: Use tweezers to pick out any blue tape stuck in the seams.

Snaps on Vinyl: Punch the Window Side Through One Layer Only (So You Keep the Coin Lip)

Hardware installation is where 20% of beginners ruin the project.

The Mechanism

• The Cap (Top Button): Goes on the front flap.
• The Socket (Female Part): Goes on the body.

The Critical "One Layer" Rule

For the Window/Pocket Side, you must insert the snap tooling inside the pocket. You are punching through the top layer only.

• If you punch through both layers: You stitch the pocket shut. The coin trap won't open.
  

Practical note on snap sizing

Use Line 20 or Line 24 snaps.

• Test: If the snap pulls the vinyl when you try to open it, the snap is too tight (grip is too strong).
• Fix: Use a nail file to lightly sand the male stud of the snap to make it release easier. This protects the vinyl from tearing over time.

Eyelets/Grommets That Don’t Pop Out: Washer-Backed Sets and the “Short Post” Fix for Marine Vinyl

Eyelets add a professional finish for keychains.

What the video does

1. Punch the hole through all layers at the top tab.
2. Insert Eyelet (Front) -> Washer (Back).
3. Hammer set.

Troubleshooting: " The Post is too Short!"

On Marine Vinyl, the metal post may barely stick through the thick layers.

• The Fix: Use the flat end of a pen or a specialty compression tool to squish the vinyl down around the hole before inserting the eyelet.
• The Squeeze: Squeeze the layers together with pliers (use cloth to protect vinyl) to compress the foam core of the vinyl, gaining you the extra 1mm needed for the washer to catch.
  

Quick Troubleshooting Map: Symptoms → Likely Cause → Fix

Decision Tree: Pick Vinyl Thickness and Stabilizing Strategy Before You Stitch

Use this logic flow to ensure your materials match your tools.

Step 1: Pinch your Vinyl.

• Is it thin and floppy? (Like a shower curtain?)
  • Result: STOP. This requires backing.
  • Action: Iron on rigid fusible interfacing OR spray-baste onto firm Cutaway stabilizer.
• Is it leather-like with a fuzzy back? (Upholstery)
  • Result: Good.
  • Action: Use Oly-Fun stabilizer. Float carefully.
• Is it stiff and thick? (Marine Vinyl)
  • Result: Excellent structure, hard to hoop.
  • Action: Do not force into a standard hoop. Use the clean Floating Method or a Magnetic Hoop.

The Upgrade Path When You Want Speed (or You’re Selling These): Hooping Efficiency and Repeatability

This coin holder is a perfect high-margin item for craft fairs. It uses scrap material and takes ~10 minutes. However, scaling from 1 to 100 reveals the bottlenecks: painful hooping and alignment errors.

Here is the professional progression for your studio:

Level 1: The Learner (Standard Hoop)

• Use tape and patience. Great for learning the physics of the machine.

Level 2: The Hobbyist Pro (Smart Tools)

• If you struggle with hoop burn or arthritis from tightening screws, look for a magnetic hoop for husqvarna viking (or your specific machine brand).
• Why: Magnetic hoops clamp instantly without "unscrewing/rescrewing." They hold thick marine vinyl flat without bruising it.

Level 3: The Side Hustle (Workflow)

• Alignment is time. A hoop master embroidery hooping station allows you to create a physical jig. You can hoop 10 items in the time it takes to tape one manually.

Level 4: The Production Shop (Capacity)

• When orders stack up, single-needle machines become the bottleneck because of thread changes and speed limits. This is when shops upgrade to SEWTECH multi-needle embroidery machines. These machines offer higher clearance (better for thick vinyl wallets) and faster stitching speeds, while still utilizing the magnetic frames you already invested in.

Warning: Magnetic Frame Safety. High-quality magnetic hoops use industrial Neodymium magnets. They are incredibly strong.
1. Keep them away from pacemakers.
2. Keep fingers clear of the "snap zone."
3. Never let two magnet brackets snap together without a hoop in between; they are very hard to separate.

Where to Get the Pattern and Materials (Pulled from Viewer Q&A)

• Pattern Source: The creator directed viewers to Etsy or the ThreadMode Embroidery website.
• Vinyl Source: Local fabric stores (Joann/Hobby Lobby) in the "Home Decor" section interact best with domestic machines.

By mastering this small project, you are actually mastering composite material management—a skill that applies to bags, keyfobs, and structured patches. Good luck, and keep those fingers clear of the needle!

FAQ

• Q: How do I prevent permanent hoop burn ring marks on marine vinyl when using a Husqvarna Viking domestic embroidery hoop for ITH projects?
  A: Use a floating method with tape (or upgrade to a magnetic hoop) instead of over-tightening a standard hoop on vinyl.
  • Loosen the standard hoop slightly and avoid “cranking” the screw down on vinyl.
  • Hoop only the stabilizer drum-tight, then tape the vinyl in place at the corners/edges so the hoop is not crushing the vinyl.
  • Keep tape out of the final needle path to avoid adhesive on the needle.
  • Success check: After unhooping, the vinyl surface stays smooth with no hard circular compression line.
  • If it still fails… stop hooping vinyl directly and switch to a magnetic hoop to clamp with vertical force instead of friction-pull.
• Q: What stabilizer should be used for ITH vinyl coin holders on Brother and Bernina domestic embroidery machines, and why is tear-away stabilizer a bad choice?
  A: Use Oly-Fun or a poly-mesh cutaway; avoid tear-away because it perforates and weakens the vinyl seams.
  • Hoop Oly-Fun/cutaway drum-tight, then run the placement stitch directly on the stabilizer.
  • Tape vinyl to the stabilizer after the placement stitch, not before.
  • Leave stabilizer inside the stitched area after trimming for structure.
  • Success check: The window panel and perimeter stitches stay flat (no oval distortion) and the seam feels firm when squeezed.
  • If it still fails… switch from thin/floppy vinyl to upholstery/marine vinyl, or add a stronger cutaway layer to reduce creep.
• Q: How can a Husqvarna Viking embroidery machine operator tell if the hoop tension is correct before stitching vinyl ITH steps?
  A: Hoop the stabilizer “drum-tight” and verify with a tap test before any vinyl goes down.
  • Tap the hooped stabilizer and listen for a dull drum sound (“doom-doom”), not a loose rattle.
  • Run the placement stitch and confirm the outline is crisp and easy to see.
  • Smooth vinyl from the center outward before taping corners to remove trapped air bubbles.
  • Success check: Press the taped vinyl lightly—there should be no ripples or “cupping” before the decorative border starts.
  • If it still fails… re-hoop the stabilizer tighter and reduce machine speed to lower friction heat that can distort vinyl.
• Q: What should be done if a Brother or Bernina domestic embroidery machine makes a laboring sound during a heavy Triple Bean stitch on vinyl?
  A: Slow down to reduce friction heat and needle deflection; vinyl stitches cleaner at moderate speed.
  • Reduce speed to the recommended 400–600 SPM range for vinyl work.
  • Stop immediately if a sharp “crack/bang” happens and check for a deflecting needle or a thick stack point.
  • Hand-turn one needle drop to confirm the presser foot is not catching tape or dragging layers.
  • Success check: The sound becomes a steady rhythmic “thump-thump,” and the stitch line stays evenly spaced without shifted layers.
  • If it still fails… change to a fresh needle (titanium recommended for vinyl) and re-check presser foot clearance to prevent dragging.
• Q: How do I fix sticky needle and thread shredding on a Bernina or Brother embroidery machine when stitching near painter’s tape on vinyl?
  A: Move tape away from the stitch path and clean adhesive off the needle with rubbing alcohol.
  • Re-tape using long strips on the edges only, creating a clear “no-fly zone” where the needle will stitch.
  • Wipe the needle with rubbing alcohol if adhesive has gummed up the shaft.
  • Replace the needle if shredding continues (vinyl dulls needles quickly; titanium resists heat/glue buildup).
  • Success check: Thread stops fraying mid-stitch and the needle comes up clean (no gummy residue).
  • If it still fails… confirm you are not stitching through any tape at all and reduce speed to limit heat that worsens buildup.
• Q: How do I fix white loops on top of marine vinyl when running ITH stitches on a Husqvarna Viking embroidery machine?
  A: Re-seat and re-thread the bobbin first, then slightly lower top tension because vinyl creates extra drag.
  • Remove and reinsert the bobbin to ensure it is fully seated.
  • Re-thread the top path completely with the presser foot up (a common miss is a tension disk skip).
  • Adjust top tension slightly downward only after re-threading (use the machine manual as the reference).
  • Success check: The top side shows clean stitches with no white bobbin loops, and the underside is not overly tight/puckered.
  • If it still fails… check that the thread is not snagging on tape edges and verify the bobbin has enough thread to avoid stopping mid-satin area.
• Q: What is the safest way to cut the vinyl window opening in-the-hoop with an X-Acto knife during an ITH coin holder project?
  A: Remove the hoop from the machine, cut on a flat table, and keep the non-cutting hand out of the blade path.
  • Keep the project in the hoop for registration, but do the cutting off the machine on a stable surface.
  • Use light pressure and the “floating hand” grip (hold like a pen, anchor pinky on the hoop frame).
  • Cut about 1 mm inside the inner stitch line to avoid severing the thread.
  • Success check: The window edge looks smooth and continuous, with no cut stitches or jagged flaps.
  • If it still fails… snap to a fresh blade tip; a dull blade drags vinyl and causes uneven edges.
• Q: When should a Husqvarna Viking home embroidery user upgrade from a standard hoop to a magnetic hoop or to a SEWTECH multi-needle embroidery machine for vinyl ITH production runs?
  A: Upgrade tools when hooping/alignment becomes the bottleneck: magnetic hoops for hoop burn and thick vinyl handling, and multi-needle machines when thread-change time and speed limit output.
  • Level 1 (Technique): Improve taping, floating, and alignment habits to reduce drift when carrying the hoop back to the machine.
  • Level 2 (Tool): Use a magnetic hoop if standard hoops bruise vinyl, require painful screw tightening, or struggle to hold marine vinyl flat.
  • Level 3 (Workflow): Use a hooping station if repeat alignment takes too long or varies from piece to piece.
  • Level 4 (Capacity): Move to a SEWTECH multi-needle machine when order volume makes single-needle thread changes and speed constraints the limiting factor.
  • Success check: Cycle time becomes consistent (less rework from misalignment), and finished edges close cleanly with fewer shifted seams.
  • If it still fails… verify presser foot clearance and needle choice first; many “upgrade” problems start as drag/deflection on thick stacks.