Brother PR670E Unboxing Without Regrets: The Fast, Safe Setup That Saves You Hours Later

Unboxing a multi-needle machine is exciting—and a little nerve-wracking. I’ve watched too many new owners rush, miss one hidden part, power on with packing material still inside, and then spend their first weekend troubleshooting a "grinding noise" that was 100% avoidable.

This guide walks you through the exact unboxing flow, but with the "experience-grade" checks that manual writers often assume you already know.

Keep the Carton Intact: The Locking Tabs That Prevent Disasters

The box is locked to its base with six white plastic tabs around the exterior. Do NOT cut the cardboard.

The Action: Pinch the center of the plastic tab until you feel it release, then pull the entire plug straight out. Do this for all six. Once cleared, lift the cardboard lid straight up.

Why this matters (Physics): These tabs are structural. If you try to lift the lid before removing them, the carton creates a vacuum seal against the styrofoam. Yanking it usually destabilizes the heavy machine inside.

Warning (Physical Safety): The PR670E weighs over 80 lbs (37 kg) and is top-heavy. Never lift it by the plastic tension assembly or the screen arm. Lift only from the metal handholds under the base. Dropping it here doesn't just break the case; it can shatter the casting alignment, requiring a factory reset.

The Hoop Reality Check: Frames, Drivers, and the "Key to the Car"

In the top layer of styrofoam, you’ll find the standard hoop set. Note that multi-needle hoops differ from home machine hoops—they mount onto a "driver."

Inventory Check:

• 8" x 12" (Extra Large)
• 5" x 7" (Large)
• 4" x 4" (Medium)
• 1" x 2" (Small/Pocket)
  

Critical Component: Hook Driver A The video highlights Hook Driver A (the black metal bracket arms). This is the interface that allows these flat hoops to snap onto the machine.

Expert Insight: Treat Driver A like your car keys. Without it, your machine is a paperweight for flat work. New users often misplace this when switching to cap drivers. Create a dedicated bin for it immediately.

If you are evaluating the brother pr670e embroidery machine as a step up from a single-needle, understand that this "driver + hoop" system is what gives you superior registration accuracy over consumer models.

The Hidden Bonus: Duplicate Hoops (And Why You Need Them)

One of the best surprises with this machine involves the vertical slots in the side styrofoam. Check both sides carefully.

You will find a second full set of the standard hoops listed above. This isn't just a spare tire; it's the secret to profitability.

The Commercial Logic: Parallel Workflow

In hobby embroidery, the machine waits for you to hoop. In commercial embroidery, the machine should never stop.

• Hoop A is on the machine stitching.
• Hoop B is on your table being prepped.
• Swap: The moment the machine beeps, you swap A for B.

The Pain Point: Standard hoop screws require repetitive wrist motion. If you are doing a run of 50 shirts, duplicating hoops helps, but your wrists will still burn from tightening screws. The Solution: This is where professionals often look for magnetic embroidery hoops for brother. They eliminate the screw-tightening step, snapping the fabric instantly. We will discuss when to upgrade to these later.

The "Don't Skip This" Accessory Audit

Open the translucent accessory case. Do not just dump it out. Perform a sensory audit of these critical tools.

Essential Tool Audit:

• Thread Nets: (Crucial for metallic or slippery threads).
• Oiler: (You will need this frequent—multi-needles require oiling the hook race daily or every 4-8 hours of run time).
• Touch Screen Stylus.
• Screwdrivers: (Offset, disc-shaped, and standard).
• Pre-wound Bobbins: (L-style, magnetic core or card sides).
  
  
  

Expert Fix: The "Puddling" Thread

If you see thread sliding down the spool and pooling at the bottom, it will catch on the spool pin and snap the needle. The Fix: Use the included thread nets. They add slight drag (resistance) to keep the thread coming off the spool consistently.

Hidden Consumables Strategy: The box doesn't include everything. Before your first run, ensure you have:

• Temporary Adhesive Spray (e.g., KK100 or generic 505) for stabilizing patches.
• Fresh Organ or Schmetz Needles (75/11 Ballpoint) as backups.
• Tweezers with a serrated tip (the included ones are okay, but pros buy precision ones).

The B Driver and Manuals: The Gateway to Specialty Work

On the second side of the styrofoam, locate the B Driver.

The Distinction:

• Driver A: Flat work (T-shirts, towels, jackets).
• Driver B: Specialty work (certain clamp frames, cylinder frames).

You will also find the Instruction Manuals here.

• Expert Advice: Do not throw away the "Embroidery Design Guide." It contains the color mapping for built-in fonts, which saves hours of guessing.

If getting into hats is your goal, you will soon become very familiar with terms like brother hat hoop. The manual explains the specific installation of the cap driver—read it before attempting to install the heavy driver unit.

The Advanced Cap System: Built for Speed

Under the top layer, you find the Cap Frame setup. This is a primary reason people buy the PR670E.

The Kit Includes:

• Two Cap Frames (Again, enabling parallel workflow).
• Mounting Jig (The cylinder tool you clamp to a table).
• Cap Driver (The black unit that snaps onto the machine arm).
  

Calibration Note: When using a cap hoop for embroidery machine, the physical clearance is tighter than flat hoops. Ensure your hat bill is pulled back with clips (often standard binder clips work effectively) so it doesn't strike the needle bar case.

The Bobbin Winder: Separation of Church and State

The PR670E includes a standalone bobbin winder.

Why separate? On a single-needle machine, you stop sewing to wind a bobbin. Here, you wind bobbins while the machine is making money. It runs on its own power cord. Set this up on a side table.

The Two-Person Lift: Moving from Base to Bench

The Action: With a helper, lift the machine. Position it on a solid table. Sensory Check: The table must not wobble. If the table shakes when you nudge it, the embroidery will suffer from registration errors (outlines not matching fill) at 1000 stitches per minute (SPM).

The Aerial Mast: The Umbrella of Tension

The thread stand (mast) comes folded.

1. Loosen the locking nut on the center column.
2. Raise the white tree fully until it stops.
3. Sensory Check: Tighten the nut until you feel firm resistance. The mast needs to be rigid.
4. Unfold the metal thread guides.
   
   
   

The Physics: The distance between the spool and the first thread guide smooths out the "memory" (curls) in the thread. If the mast is too low, the thread snaps.

The Blue Tape Hunt: Removing the "Kill Switches"

Manufacturers use blue tape and cardboard spacers to lock stepper motors during shipping. The Hunt: Remove every piece of blue tape. Pay special attention to the cardboard insert under the needle bar case.

Why: If you power on the machine with the needle bar block in place, the motor tries to find its "home" position, hits the cardboard, and grinds. This can strip gears instantly.

Screen Ergonomics

Rotate the LCD screen to your eye level.

Expert Tip: Adjust this so you don't have to hunch. Commercial embroidery is an endurance sport; save your neck.

Phase 1 Checklist: The "Pre-Flight" Inspection

• Base: All 6 shipping tabs fully removed?
• Clearance: Cardboard block removed from under/behind needle bars?
• Lubrication: Verify oil bottle is present (you will need 1 drop on the hook race).
• Inventory: Hook Driver A located and separated from Cap Driver components.
• Stability: Table is rock solid (no vibration transfer).

Decision Tree: Choosing the Right Tool for the Job

Your PR670E comes with excellent standard hoops, but as you scale, you may hit bottlenecks. Use this logic to decide when to upgrade.

Scenario A: "I'm doing 10 custom T-shirts, all different names."

• Tool: Standard Included Hoops (5x7" or 4x4").
• Reason: You need precision placement for each unique name. The standard screws allow fine-tuning.

Scenario B: "I have an order for 50 Polos with the same Left Chest Logo."

• Problem: Hoop burn (shiny rings from the plastic frame) and wrist fatigue from tightening 50 screws.
• Solution: This is the trigger to upgrade to a brother 5x7 magnetic hoop.
• Why: You just place the shirt and let the magnets snap. It is 3x faster and leaves almost no marks.

Scenario C: "I'm doing thick Carhartt jackets or bags."

• Problem: You cannot physically tighten the screw enough to hold the thick fabric without popping the inner ring out.
• Solution: A heavy-duty magnetic embroidery hoop excels here because the magnets hold through localized thickness where friction hoops fail.

Warning (Magnetic Safety): Magnetic hoops (like Sew Tech or Mighty Hoops) use industrial Neodymium magnets. They are incredibly strong. Keep fingers strictly on the handles. If you get skin caught between the magnets, it will cause significant injury. Do not use if you have a pacemaker.

The "Why It Works" Summary: Tension & Physics

Embroidery quality is 90% prep.

• Standard Hoops: rely on friction and screw tension. Good for thin, stable fabrics.
• Magnetic Hoops: rely on vertical magnetic force. Better for thick, slippery, or delicate fabrics to prevent "hoop burn."

New owners often search for things like a brother 4x4 magnetic hoop once they realize how much time they spend fighting with small pocket items or onesies using standard frames.

First Stitch Strategy

Now that you are unboxed:

1. Oil the hook. (One drop. Do not drown it).
2. Wind a fresh bobbin using your sidebar winder.
3. Thread Needle 1. (Follow the path: up, down, around the tension disc. Sensory Check: Floss the thread into the tension disc. You should feel it "click" or seat fully).

Final Operation Checklist:

• Oil: Hook race oiled?
• Tension: Upper thread seated firmly in tension discs?
• Hoop: Fabric sounds like a drum when tapped?
• Clearance: Nothing touching the wall behind the machine?

You are now ready to stitch. The PR670E is a workhorse, but it treats you exactly as well as you treat its setup. Welcome to multi-needle embroidery.

FAQ

• Q: How do I prevent a Brother PR670E grinding noise on first power-on after unboxing?
  A: Remove every piece of blue shipping tape and the cardboard spacer under the needle bar case before powering on.
  • Action: Inspect the needle bar area and remove the cardboard insert under/behind the needle bars.
  • Action: Check the entire machine for blue tape used as shipping locks and remove all of it.
  • Success check: When powering on, the needle bar unit can move to its home position without hitting anything or making a grinding sound.
  • If it still fails: Power off immediately and re-check for any remaining packing material blocking moving parts.
• Q: Where should a Brother PR670E be lifted from during unboxing to avoid damage?
  A: Lift a Brother PR670E only from the metal handholds under the base, ideally with two people.
  • Action: Keep hands off the plastic tension assembly and the screen arm when lifting.
  • Action: Use a two-person lift and place the machine on a solid, non-wobbling table.
  • Success check: The machine sits stable and level, and the table does not shake when nudged.
  • If it still fails: Move the machine to a sturdier bench before stitching to reduce vibration-related registration issues.
• Q: What is Brother PR670E Hook Driver A, and what should be checked if the flat hoops cannot mount?
  A: Brother PR670E Hook Driver A is the black metal bracket interface that allows flat hoops to snap onto the machine.
  • Action: Locate Hook Driver A in the packaging and store it in a dedicated bin so it does not get mixed with cap driver parts.
  • Action: Confirm the correct driver is installed for flat work (Driver A, not the cap driver).
  • Success check: A standard flat hoop snaps on securely and releases normally.
  • If it still fails: Re-check that Driver A is present and not misplaced; without it, flat hoops will not attach correctly.
• Q: How do I stop Brother PR670E embroidery thread from sliding down the spool and “puddling” at the bottom?
  A: Use the included Brother PR670E thread nets to add light drag and keep the thread feeding consistently.
  • Action: Put a thread net over the spool, especially for metallic or slippery threads.
  • Action: Watch the spool during slow stitching to confirm the thread is not pooling at the base.
  • Success check: Thread unwinds smoothly without pooling, and the needle does not snap from snagging on the spool pin.
  • If it still fails: Re-seat the thread path and verify the thread is feeding through the guides cleanly without catching.
• Q: What is the correct Brother PR670E upper thread “tension disc seating” check when threading Needle 1?
  A: Floss the upper thread into the Brother PR670E tension discs until it seats fully.
  • Action: Follow the threading path carefully (up, down, and around the tension area).
  • Action: Pull the thread firmly into the tension discs so it “clicks” or feels fully seated.
  • Success check: You can feel distinct resistance/engagement at the tension discs, not a loose free-pull.
  • If it still fails: Re-thread Needle 1 from the spool again and repeat the floss-in step; mis-seating is common on first setup.
• Q: How do I know fabric is hooped correctly on a Brother PR670E before the first stitch?
  A: Hoop the fabric so it is tight enough to sound like a drum when tapped.
  • Action: Tighten and adjust until the fabric is evenly tensioned across the hoop area.
  • Action: Avoid over-cranking if the fabric is delicate; aim for even, firm tension.
  • Success check: Tapping the hooped area produces a drum-like sound and the surface looks flat without ripples.
  • If it still fails: Re-hoop and focus on even tension; uneven hooping is a common cause of poor registration.
• Q: When should Brother PR670E owners upgrade from standard hoops to magnetic embroidery hoops for production work?
  A: Upgrade to magnetic embroidery hoops when repetitive screw-tightening causes wrist fatigue, hoop burn, or when thick items will not hold securely in standard hoops.
  • Action: Use standard hoops for small custom runs needing fine placement adjustments (often best for one-offs).
  • Action: Switch to magnetic hoops for repeated left-chest logos or batch work to reduce hoop burn and speed up loading.
  • Success check: Hoop loading becomes faster and the garment shows fewer shiny hoop rings after stitching.
  • If it still fails: If the workflow still bottlenecks or orders outgrow the setup, consider a higher-capacity production plan (generally: more hoops first, then tool upgrades, then machine upgrades as demand proves it).
• Q: What are the safety rules for using magnetic embroidery hoops with a Brother PR670E workflow?
  A: Treat magnetic embroidery hoops as an industrial pinch hazard and keep hands on the handles only.
  • Action: Keep fingers strictly on the hoop handles when closing magnets; never place skin between magnetic faces.
  • Action: Do not use magnetic hoops if the operator has a pacemaker.
  • Success check: Hoops snap together without any finger contact near the magnet edges and without unexpected “slam” contact.
  • If it still fails: Stop and reset hand position before trying again; do not force magnets to close while fingers are near the pinch zone.