Four Patch Methods on a Tajima Embroidery Machine: Felt, Blank Patches, Tackle Twill Templates, and All-Thread (Without the “Potato Chip” Curl)

Patches are the "gateway drug" of the embroidery business. One minute you are making a single morale patch for a friend, and the next, you are staring at a purchase order for 500 company logo patches. To the uninitiated, they seem simple—small surface area, limited colors. But as a veteran embroiderer, use this truth to ground yourself: A patch is a high-stress engineering event. You are forcing thousands of stitches into a confined space, often on unstable plastic or felt.

When a beginner pulls a patch off the machine and it curls up like a potato chip, they blame themselves. They think, "I'm not good at this." Stop. That curl is physics, not failure. It is the result of thread tension fighting against substrate memory.

In this white-paper-level guide, we will deconstruct the four industry-standard methods shown on a Tajima machine: Felt, Pre-made Blanks, Tackle Twill, and All-Thread. We will move beyond the basic "how-to" and give you the sensory cues (what it should feel like), safe data ranges (numbers you can trust), and the commercial logic that turns a hobby into a production line.

The Calm-Down Truth About Patch Making on a Tajima Embroidery Machine (Yes, Wavy Happens)

Let’s address the elephant in the room immediately: The "Potato Chip" Effect.

When your patch comes off the hoop and curls, do not panic. This is a predictable reaction to stitch density. A dense satin border acts like a cinched belt around a waist; it naturally pulls the center material inward.

The Physics of the Curl: Embroidery thread has elasticity. During stitching, it is stretched. When you cut it, it wants to snap back to its original length.

• The visual cue: The edges lift, creating a bowl shape.
• The tactile cue: The patch feels rigid and "nervous" (under tension), rather than pliable.

The host in our source video reaches for an iron immediately. This isn't just to make it look pretty; it is heat setting. By applying heat (approx. 260°F - 300°F), you are effectively "relaxing" the polyester molecules into their new shape. Treat heat pressing as a mandatory manufacturing step, not a cosmetic afterthought.

Warning: Mechanical Safety
Scissors and seam rippers are the deadliest tools on your table. When trimming a patch border while it is still hooped:
1. Never "snip blind" behind the hoop.
2. Keep fingers parallel to the cutting path, never in front of it.
3. Safety Zone: If using a seam ripper on the back, ensure the hoop is on a flat table, not balanced on your lap, to prevent a slip-and-stab injury.

The “Hidden” Prep Pros Do Before They Hoop Anything (Stabilizer, Film, Adhesive, and Heat Tools)

Success is determined before you even touch the machine. Rookies rush to hoist the hoop; Pros obsess over the "Stack."

The "Hidden Consumables" Checklist: Beyond the obvious thread and fabric, you need these specific tools in your armory to prevent failure:

• Needles: Titanium coated 75/11 Sharp needles (ballpoints will struggle to perforate crisp film cleanly).
• Consumable 1: RipStitch #20 Crisp Heavy Tear Away (2.0 oz). This is your structural foundation.
• Consumable 2: Madeira Super Film (100 micron). Heat-activated. This is the magic layer for "floating" patches.
• Consumable 3: Odif 505 Spray. A temporary adhesive. It must be tacky, not gummy.
• Consumable 4: Thermoseal & Fuse-n-Bond. For sealing the back (waterproofing) vs. adhesive application (iron-on).

The Hooping Physics: Patches act like magnifying glasses for hooping errors. If your film is loose, the needle will push it down before penetrating (flagging), causing bird's nests.

• The Tactile Standard: When you tap the hooped film, it should sound like a tight drum skin—a high-pitched thump, not a dull thud.
• The Friction Problem: Traditional screw hoops often slip on slick badging film. This is where professionals researching hooping for embroidery machine technique often pivot to magnetic solutions. A magnetic hoop creates a 360-degree clamp that locks plastic film instantly without the "tug-and-screw" distortion of standard frames.

Prep Checklist (do this before you touch the hoop)

• Needle Check: Run your finger down the needle shaft. If you feel any burr, replace it. A burred needle will shred film.
• Stabilizer Match: Confirm you have the correct base. (Felt = Tear Away; Blank/Twill/Thread = Super Film).
• Bobbin Audit: Ensure you have a full white bobbin. Running out mid-patch is a disaster for alignment.
• Adhesive Plan: Decide now: Is this sew-on (Thermoseal) or iron-on (Fuse-n-Bond)?
• Scissor Test: Cut a scrap of fabric. If the scissors "chew" rather than slice, sharpen them or get a new pair.

Method 1: Felt Patch + Tear Away Stabilizer—The Fastest Win When You Need a Clean Edge

Felt is the "training wheels" of patch making—safe, stable, and forgiving. Because felt is non-woven, it does not fray, meaning you don't need a perfectly sealed heat-cut edge.

The SEWTECH Advantage: For this method, a magnetic hoop is superior because felt is thick. Standard hoops require you to loosen the screw significantly, often leading to "hoop burn" (crushed fabric marks). A green magnetic hoop snaps over the felt thickness without crushing the fibers.

What the video does (foundation steps)

1. Stack: RipStitch Tear-away (Bottom) + Felt (Top).
2. Hoop: Clamp them together in the magnetic frame. Sensory Check: Ensure the felt cannot be pulled or shifted.
3. Run: Stitch the design.
4. Trim: Cut the felt manually.

The expert “why” that prevents ugly borders

The "Lean" Phenomenon: If your felt is not secured tight (drum-tight), the push-pull compensation of the machine will distort the circle into an oval. The satin border is a tug-of-war.

The Trimming "Sweet Spot": The standard instruction is "trim close." Let's be precise:

• Target Distance: 1.5mm to 3mm (approx 1/16" to 1/8").
• Too Close (<1mm): You risk cutting the bobbin lock knots.
• Too Far (>4mm): The patch looks amateur and cheap.
• Angle Trick: Tilt your scissors slightly outward (away from the center). This creates a beveled edge that looks professional.

Operation Checklist (felt patch)

• Speed Limit: Set machine to 600-700 SPM for the satin border. High speed causes rim vibration.
• Trim Sequence: Finish the entire stitch-out before removing the hoop (unless doing applique style).
• Scissor Angle: Angle scissors away from the thread to prevent accidental snips.
• Heat Set: Press from the back side. Pressing the front flattens the 3D texture you just worked hard to create.

Method 2: Blank Patch + Madeira Super Film—The “Appliqué Mindset” That Makes Placement Easy

Many of you buying pre-made blank patches struggle with one thing: Alignment. How do you get the design exactly in the center?

This method uses "Floating." You hoop only the film, and stick the patch on top. This is safer for your machine (no thick patch jammed in the hoop) and easier on your hands.

Why the Round Hoop? In the video, a round magnetic hoop is used. For those searching for magnetic hoops for tajima embroidery machines, the round shape is crucial here because it distributes tension radially. Square hoops can have loose corners where film sags, causing the patch to shift during the high-speed satin stitch.

What the video does (foundation steps)

1. Hoop: Two layers of Super Film (Sensory Check: It should feel thick, like cardstock).
2. Placement Run: Stitch a "bastard" outline directly on the film.
3. Adhesion: Spray Odif 505 on the back of the blank patch.
4. Align: Stick the patch inside the stitched circle. Visual Metric: You should see the placement thread evenly around the patch rim.
5. Secure: Run a tacky basting stitch.

Removing basting stitches (the clean way)

Do not pull the basting thread from the top like a ripcord.

• The Technique: Flip the hoop. Use a seam ripper on the bobbin side. Slice the white bobbin thread every 4-6 stitches.
• The Release: Flip it back over. The top thread will lift off effortlessly with tweezers. This prevents "fiber pull" or distortion of the blank patch.

Removing Super Film without stressing the satin

The "Rip" is the moment of truth.

• Risk: Pulling too hard distorts the satin border, making it look wavy.
• The Fix: Support the stitches with your thumb while tearing the film with your other hand. Tear toward the stitching, not away. Tear one layer at a time. The sound should be a sharp "zip," not a slow plastic stretch sound.

Setup Checklist (blank patch on film)

• Double Layer: Always use TWO layers of Super Film. One layer will perforate and your patch will pop out mid-stitch.
• Spray Distance: Hold Odif 505 can 8-10 inches away. If the patch back looks wet or gummy, you used too much.
• Placement Audit: Before hitting start on the design, trace the perimeter. If the needle comes within 1mm of the patch edge, stop and re-align.
• Tear Direction: Tear film towards the embroidery to minimize stress on the satin edge.

Warning: Chemical Safety
Temporary spray adhesive is airborne glue. It settles on machine rails, encoder strips, and your lungs.
* Never spray near the machine. Steps away to a dedicated box or trash can.
* Clean the hoop: Adhesive buildup on magnetic hoops reduces clamping force. Clean with citrus-based remover regularly.

Method 3: Tackle Twill Patch Using a Stitched Template—How to Get Perfect Circles Without Guesswork

Tackle Twill is the professional standard for sports jerseys. It offers a high-gloss finish and durability. But cutting perfect circles of twill by hand is nearly impossible.

The "Template Hack": The video demonstrates creating a physical template using tear-away stabilizer.

1. Hoop stabilizer.
2. Stitch the circle.
3. Remove and cut on the line.
4. Use this "hole" or the "cutout" to trace onto your Twill fabric.

What the video does (foundation steps)

1. Trace & Cut: Use the template to get a twill circle.
2. Hoop Film: Switch back to Super Film in the hoop.
3. Float: Spray adhesive on the twill, stick it to the film.
4. Appliqué Sequence: Placement Stitch -> Stop -> Place Twill -> Tack Down Stitch -> Design -> Final Satin Border.

The expert “why”: why satin last is non-negotiable

The Perforation Peril: A satin stitch punches hundreds of holes per inch. If you run the satin border first, you are effectively cutting a "stamp" out of the film. The patch will become loose and unstable while the machine tries to fill the center.

• The Golden Rule: The Satin Border is the final punctuation mark.
• Tool Tip: Using a magnetic embroidery hoop here is vital. Because twill is stiff and film is slippery, magnetic clamping ensures the "sandwich" doesn't slide when the heavy tack-down stitches hit.

Method 4: The All-Thread Patch on Super Film—Digitizing Choices That Stop Pre-Perforation

This is the "Ferrari" of patches—100% thread, no fabric base. It creates a flexible, premium badge. However, it is the most technically demanding because you are balancing structure on thin plastic.

The Digitizing Secret Sauce: Unlike standard embroidery, you need a structural mesh.

1. Layer 1: Tatami fill at 45 degrees.
2. Layer 2: Tatami fill at 135 degrees.
3. Layer 3: Final visible fill.

• Purpose: This cross-hatching creates a "thread fabric" that supports the final design. If you skip this, the film will stretch, and gaps will appear.

Comment-based pro tip: “How do I avoid overlapping needle penetrations on the satin border?”

The "Cookie Cutter" Effect: If your needle hits the exact same hole three times, it cuts the film.

• The Fix: Digitize the fill background slightly wider (approx 0.5mm) than the underlay. This forces the needle to penetrate fresh film, distributing the stress load.

The expert “why”: what’s really happening with pre-perforation

Pre-perforation isn't just annoying; it causes "Bird's Nests" (giant tangles of under-thread) because the film loses tension and flags up/down with the needle. By varying stitch angles and using adequate underlay, you create a self-supporting web that holds the film together until the very last second.

The “Potato Chip” Patch Fix: Pressing Isn’t Optional, It’s Part of the Process

Back to the curl. When you take the patch off, it will look distressed.

The Recovery Process:

1. Heat: Set iron to Synthetic/Silk setting (approx 270°F).
2. Barrier: Use a Teflon sheet or cotton cloth. Never iron directly on thread (it will shine/melt).
3. Pressure: Press firmly for 10-15 seconds.
4. Cooling: Crucial Step—Place a heavy book or flat weight on the patch while it cools. The "memory" of the plastic/thread is set during the cooling phase, not the heating phase.

Finishing the Back Like a Pro: Thermoseal vs Fuse-n-Bond (And Why Your Patch Gets Flatter)

A raw patch back is messy. You need to seal the bobbin threads.

Option A: Thermoseal (Waterproofing/Sew-On)

• Function: Turns the back into a smooth, shiny plastic surface. Ideal if you are sewing the patch onto a jacket later.
• Feel: Rubbery/Smooth.

Option B: Fuse-n-Bond (Iron-On)

• Function: Turns the patch into a sticker.
• Feel: Paper-backed until peeled, then sticky glue.

Thermoseal application (foundation steps)

1. Cut: Trim film 1mm smaller than patch edge.
2. Orient: Texture side down (touching patch).
3. Press: 265°F - 280°F for 15-20 seconds.
4. Peel: Wait until cold. If you peel hot, the glue lifts.

Fuse-n-Bond application (foundation steps)

1. Orientation: Film side onto the patch back; paper side facing you.
2. Press: Same temps (265°F - 280°F).
3. The Reveal: Once cool, peel the paper. The back of your patch is now shiny adhesive, ready for heat application to a garment.

Warning: Magnet & Health Safety
If upgrading to magnetic hoops, be aware they use industrial-strength Neodymium magnets.
1. Pinch Hazard: They snap shut with incredible force. Keep fingers clear of the contact zone.
2. Medical Devices: Keep magnetic embroidery hoops at least 6 inches away from pacemakers or ICDs.
3. Electronics: Do not place phones or credit cards directly on the magnet bars.

A Simple Decision Tree: Which Patch Method and Backing Should You Choose?

Use this logic flow to stop guessing and start stitching.

Step 1: What is the desired Look & Feel?

• "I want a soft, matte finish." → Method 1 (Felt). Best for vintage style / kids' gear.
• "I want a glossy, pro sports look." → Method 3 (Tackle Twill). Best for jerseys/jackets.
• "I want a complex shape with no fabric border." → Method 4 (All-Thread). High end, high stitch count.

Step 2: Are you sewing or ironing it on?

• Sewing it on later? → Use Thermoseal. Seals threads, keeps it flexible.
• Ironing it on later? → Use Fuse-n-Bond. stiffens the patch, makes it "ready-to-wear."

Step 3: What is your production volume?

• < 10 Patches: Manual hooping is fine.
• > 50 Patches: Consider upgrading tools (see below).

Troubleshooting: Symptoms → Likely Cause → Fix (Straight From the Patch Table)

The Upgrade Path: When Better Hooping and Production Tools Pay for Themselves

If you survived the tutorial above and thought, "That seems like a lot of steps," you are right. Embroidery is labor-intensive. When you move from "hobbyist" to "business owner," your focus must shift from how to stitch to how to stitch faster and safer.

Level 1: Stability Upgrade If you struggle with film slipping or hoop burn on delicate fabrics, magnetic embroidery hoops are not a luxury; they are a quality control necessity. They self-adjust to any thickness (from thin film to thick felt), removing the "guesswork" of tightening screws.

Level 2: Workflow Upgrade If you are producing 50+ patches a day, alignment becomes your enemy. Using a hooping station for machine embroidery allows you to prep the next hoop while the machine is running the current one. This non-stop cycle doubles your output. For Tajima users, integrating tajima magnetic hoops into a hoop master embroidery hooping station workflow creates a seamless production line.

Level 3: Capacity Upgrade Finally, if your single-needle machine is taking 45 minutes to run a complex 4-color All-Thread patch (because of 20 thread changes), you are losing money. Commercial profitability begins with SEWTECH multi-needle embroidery machines. The ability to set 15 colors and walk away while the machine handles the complexity is what allows you to scale from a "craft room" to a "warehouse."

Final Checklist (before you call a patch “done”)

• Trim Quality: Edges are clean, no "hairy" felt or twill sticking out.
• Basting Removal: Check the back—ensure no trapped visible threads.
• Film Residue: All Super Film is torn away (use tweezers for tiny gaps).
• Flatness: Patch lays flat on the table (passed the Potato Chip test).
• Seal: Backing (Thermoseal/Fuse-n-Bond) is fully adhered to the edge of the satin border to prevent unraveling.
• Cool Down: Store flat for at least 30 minutes to permanent set the shape.

FAQ

• Q: On a Tajima embroidery machine, why does a finished patch curl into a “potato chip” shape after unhooping?
  A: This is common—high stitch density (especially a satin border) pulls the patch inward, so heat-pressing is the normal fix.
  • Press: Set the iron to Synthetic/Silk (about 270°F) and use a Teflon sheet or cotton cloth as a barrier.
  • Set: Press firmly for 10–15 seconds, then place a heavy flat weight on the patch while it cools.
  • Avoid: Do not iron directly on thread to prevent shine/melting.
  • Success check: The patch cools down and lays flat on the table without the edges lifting.
  • If it still fails: Reduce stitch density about 10% in digitizing and consider slightly loosening bobbin tension (follow the machine manual).
• Q: For Tajima patch making, what is the “drum-tight” hooping standard for Super Film or patch film to prevent flagging and bird’s nests?
  A: Hoop film so tight it behaves like a drum skin; loose film causes needle flagging and under-thread tangles.
  • Hoop: Clamp the film so there are no soft spots or sagging (two layers are recommended for Super Film setups).
  • Tap-test: Tap the hooped film before stitching.
  • Correct: Re-hoop immediately if the film shifts or can be pushed down easily.
  • Success check: The tap sound is a high-pitched “thump,” not a dull thud.
  • If it still fails: Replace a burred needle and verify the thread path is seated correctly before changing tensions.
• Q: On a Tajima embroidery machine, why does Super Film “pop” or tear out mid-stitch when making floating patches?
  A: The most common cause is using only one layer of film or stitching with a damaged/burred needle.
  • Upgrade: Use TWO layers of Super Film (one layer can perforate and release mid-run).
  • Replace: Switch to a fresh 75/11 sharp needle if there is any burr on the shaft.
  • Inspect: Stop if the film starts to perforate early and re-hoop before continuing.
  • Success check: The film stays stable through the satin border without the patch breaking free.
  • If it still fails: Review digitizing for excessive perforation on borders and ensure the hooping tension passes the drum-tight tap-test.
• Q: On a Tajima embroidery machine, what causes white bobbin thread to show on top of a patch, and what is the safest first adjustment?
  A: White bobbin showing on top usually means top tension is too tight or bobbin tension is too loose; start with a small bobbin adjustment only after checking the thread path.
  • Clean: Check the thread path for lint and confirm top thread is seated in the tension disks.
  • Adjust: Tighten the bobbin screw slightly (about 1/8 turn).
  • Re-test: Stitch a small sample before restarting production patches.
  • Success check: The top surface shows clean top thread coverage with no white bobbin peeking through.
  • If it still fails: Re-check threading from spool to needle and confirm the bobbin is correctly installed and unwinding smoothly.
• Q: When using Odif 505 spray for floating patches on a Tajima embroidery machine, how do you prevent adhesive gunk on the needle and hoop?
  A: Use less spray and keep it away from the machine—most needle gunk comes from spraying too close or applying too much.
  • Spray: Hold the can 8–10 inches away so the backing looks tacky, not wet or gummy.
  • Relocate: Spray inside a dedicated box or trash can area, not near machine rails or encoder strips.
  • Clean: Remove adhesive buildup from magnetic hoop contact surfaces using a citrus-based remover as needed.
  • Success check: The needle stays clean and stitches smoothly without sticky residue or thread drag.
  • If it still fails: Wipe the needle with an alcohol swab and reduce spray volume further on the next setup.
• Q: What scissor and seam ripper safety rules prevent hand injuries when trimming patch borders while the patch is still hooped on a Tajima embroidery machine?
  A: Don’t trim blind—most serious cuts happen when cutting behind the hoop without clear visibility and stable support.
  • Position: Keep fingers parallel to the cutting path, never in front of the blades.
  • Stabilize: Place the hoop flat on a table when using a seam ripper on the back (never on a lap).
  • Control: Avoid “snip blind” behind the hoop where the tip can slip through.
  • Success check: Trimming is controlled with full visibility and no sudden tool slips.
  • If it still fails: Remove the hoop from the machine and reposition lighting and the hoop angle before continuing trimming.
• Q: What are the key safety precautions for industrial-strength magnetic embroidery hoops used on Tajima machines?
  A: Magnetic hoops can snap shut with high force, so treat them like pinch-hazard tools and keep them away from sensitive devices.
  • Protect: Keep fingers out of the closing zone when seating the magnetic ring.
  • Separate: Keep magnetic hoops at least 6 inches away from pacemakers or ICDs.
  • Store: Do not place phones, credit cards, or similar electronics directly on magnet bars.
  • Success check: The hoop closes without pinching fingers and stays clamped without needing re-seating.
  • If it still fails: Slow down the closing motion, confirm surfaces are clean (no adhesive buildup), and re-seat the hoop evenly.
• Q: For Tajima patch production, when should patch makers upgrade from standard screw hoops to magnetic hoops, and when does a multi-needle machine become the better solution?
  A: If patches slip, show hoop burn, or alignment wastes time, upgrade hooping first; if thread changes dominate runtime, upgrade machine capacity.
  • Level 1 (Technique): Improve hooping tension, use correct film/tear-away stacks, and slow down satin borders to 600–700 SPM.
  • Level 2 (Tool): Move to magnetic hoops when screw hoops slip on slick film, distort thick felt, or cause hoop burn.
  • Level 3 (Capacity): Move to a multi-needle setup when complex multi-color patches take too long due to repeated manual thread changes.
  • Success check: Patches stay round (not oval), borders stay clean, and repeat runs require minimal re-alignment.
  • If it still fails: Add a hooping station workflow so the next hoop is prepped while the machine is running.