PE-Design 10 Stitch Types That Actually Sew Well: Change Fill, Motif, Cross Stitch & More Without Wrecking Your Design

If you’ve ever clicked a stitch type in Brother PE-Design 10 and thought, “That looks cool… but will it actually sew clean?”—you’re in the right place. And you are right to be skeptical.

Embroidery is an "experience science." What you see on a high-resolution monitor is a mathematical ideal; what happens under the needle is a physical battle between thread tension, fabric grain, and hoop stability.

In this comprehensive guide, we are analyzing a workflow by Erica from Nanadees Embroidery. She demonstrates the stitch library inside Brother PE-Design 10 using a monkey-face design. We will take her demonstration and add the "Chief Engineer" layer—the critical parameters, safety checks, and sensory details you need to ensure your machine doesn't just finish the job, but creates a sellable product.

We will cover two specific workflows:

• Global Changes: Changing stitch types for the entire design (fast, but high-risk).
• Selective Editing: Changing stitch types for specific parts (the professional standard for texture).

You will learn to interpret the Sewing Attributes panel (Density, Direction, and Pull Compensation) not as abstract numbers, but as physical commands that dictate how your machine behaves.

Don’t Panic: PE-Design 10 Stitch Types Are “Preview-Safe,” Not Always “Sew-Safe”

PE-Design 10 makes stitch changes feel harmless because the screen preview updates instantly. That’s great for creativity—but it can trick beginners into thinking every stitch algorithm is equally stable on fabric.

Here is the calm truth from the production side: The screen is a lie. The software shows you a perfect render. It does not show you the "push" of the fabric as the needle penetrates, nor does it show the "pull" as the stitch tightens. A stitch that looks gorgeous on-screen can sew out with gaps, puckering, or thread stress if the density, direction, or compensation doesn't match the physical reality of your material.

If you’re new to this, you’re not behind—you’re just missing the “shop-floor” context that software tutorials don’t always say out loud.

The Golden Rule of Digitizing: Your digital file is only as good as your physical setup. Clean digitizing on a poorly hooped garment will fail. Poor digitizing on a perfectly hooped garment will fail. You need both.

The “Hidden” Prep: What to Check in Sewing Attributes Before You Touch Stitch Type

Before you start clicking different textures, you must establish your "base physics." Erica opens the Sewing Attributes panel by double left-clicking the object (the monkey face).

When that panel appears on the right, you are looking at the engine room of your embroidery file. The key settings displayed include:

• Density: 4.5 line/mm
• Direction: Manual 0 deg
• Pull compensation: 0.2 mm

Those numbers are not just decoration—they’re the guardrails that keep your texture experiments from turning into distortion.

Why these three settings matter (the part experienced digitizers obsess over)

To move from "hobbyist" to "pro," you need to understand what these numbers feel like:

• Density (4.5 line/mm shown):
  • The Theory: This controls how close the rows of stitching are.
  • The Reality: Standard 40wt rayon/polyester thread covers well at 4.0 to 4.5 lines/mm. If you go higher (e.g., 5.0 or 6.0), the fabric will feel stiff, like cardboard (bulletproof embroidery). If you go lower (e.g., 3.0), the fabric color will peek through.
  • Sensory Check: A 4.5 density should feel flexible but solid. If it feels like a hard patch, reduce density.
• Direction (Manual 0° shown):
  • The Theory: The angle at which the thread lays.
  • The Reality: Fabric stretches more across the grain than with the grain. Professional digitizers often set stitch direction against the detailed axis of the design to prevent distortion. Changing direction changes how light hits the thread—this is how you create "shine" without changing thread colors.
• Pull compensation (0.2 mm shown):
  • The Theory: This adds extra length to the ends of stitches to counteract the thread tightening.
  • The Reality: Without this, your circles will look like ovals and your squares will look like bowties.
  • The Standard: 0.2mm - 0.3mm is the "Sweet Spot" for stable fabrics (cotton/twill). For stretchy knits (polo shirts), you may need 0.4mm or more.

If you are researching the term hooping for embroidery machine tutorials, understand this connection: The better your hooping, the less "Pull Compensation" you need. If your hooping is loose (drum-skin test fails), no amount of software compensation will save the design.

Prep Checklist (do this once per design session)

The Stitch-Type Menu in PE-Design 10: What Erica Scrolls Through (and What Each One Is Good For)

Erica opens the stitch-type dropdown and previews multiple stitch algorithms on the same shape. This allows you to see how the software re-calculates the pathing for the needle.

Here are the stitch types shown in the dropdown during the demo, decoded for their practical use:

• Satin Stitch: The "Glossy" stitch. Long, floating threads. Use for narrow columns (text, borders). Risk: Snags easily on velcro or jewelry.
• Fill Stitch (Tatami): The "Structural" stitch. Short, interlocking runs. Use for large areas. Benefit: Very durable. Risk: Can be stiff.
• Progressive Fill Stitch: A variation of Fill where density fades out. Great for shading.
• Piping Stitch: Follows the contour of the shape.
• Motif Stitch: Uses small patterns (hearts, stars) to fill an area. High Risk: High stitch count.
• Cross Stitch: Mimics hand embroidery. Low stitch count, vintage look.
• Concentric/Radial/Spiral Stitch: Great for circles/suns. Moves the eye to the center.
• Stippling Stitch: Meandering path (quilt looking). Very low stitch count.
• Net Fill: Mesh-like pattern. Backgrounds.
  

Practical “shop” notes on these stitch types (so you don’t waste time)

These aren’t extra facts about the video—this is how these stitch families often behave when you actually sew them:

• Fill Stitch: Erica calls this her go-to. In production, it’s the most predictable. If you are doing a run of 50 patches, use Fill. It rarely breaks thread.
• Motif Stitch: Adds personality, but check the stitch count. A Motif fill can sometimes have double the stitches of a standard fill, doubling your machine runtime.
• Cross Stitch: Because the stitches are long and open, small distortions are very visible. Your hooping must be perfect.
• Net Fill / Zigzag Net Fill: Visually "airy," but requires a matching bobbin thread or backing color, as the gaps are intentional.
  

Warning: Speed Limits & Safety
Some stitch types (like Satin or long-stitch Motifs) create long jumps. If you run your machine at max speed (e.g., 1000 SPM), the sudden deceleration for a long stitch can cause thread shredding or needle deflection.
* Standard Fill: Safe at 800-1000 SPM (Stitches Per Minute).
* Motif / Satin: Safe at 600-700 SPM.
* Sensory Check: Listen to your machine. A rhythmic "thump-thump" is good. A harsh "slap-slap" or whipping sound means you are going too fast for the stitch length—slow down immediately to prevent a needle break.

The Fast “Global Change” Trick: Apply One Stitch Type to the Whole Design (and When Not To)

Erica demonstrates a bulk edit workflow:

1. Use the Select tool.
2. Highlight/select the entire design.
3. Right-click to open the context menu.
4. Choose a stitch type to apply it to everything.

She notes that the menu may initially show “not sewn” if the selected objects currently have mixed settings.

Expected outcome

When you do this correctly, the entire monkey design (ears, face, tail, body) updates to the same stitch texture.

When global changes are useful

• Drafting/Mockups: Quickly showing a client, "Here is what it looks like as a Cross Stitch style."
• Simple Silhouettes: If the design is one single shape type.

When global changes backfire

• Detail Loss: Tiny details (like the monkey's eyes) cannot support complex Motif stitches. They will turn into a ball of thread.
• Physics Mismatch: Applying a heavy "Fill Stitch" to a delicate outline will cause the outline to shift.

Pro Tip: Global changes are best treated as a preview tool, not a final production decision.

The Sewing Order Pane: The One Click That Turns PE-Design 10 Into a Real Digitizing Workflow

To change only certain parts (like ears or body), Erica uses the Sewing Order pane on the left. This is arguably the most important panel in the software for quality control.

1. Go to the left pane.
2. Click the plus (+) sign to expand the design tree.
3. You’ll see individual components/layers listed.
   

Expected outcome

The left panel expands into a vertical list of design components. This allows you to surgically select the "Ears" layer without touching the "Face" layer.

This is the moment where beginners usually level up. By treating the design as "layers" (similar to Photoshop) rather than a flat image, you gain control over the sewing sequence and texture assignment.

The Money Move: Change Ears to Cross Stitch, Body to Motif Stitch (Selective Editing That Looks Intentional)

Erica demonstrates the core lesson: Mixing textures creates depth.

1. In the expanded Sewing Order tree, select the Ears layer.
2. Right-click the selected object and change the stitch type to Cross Stitch.
3. Select the Body segment.
4. Change the body stitch type to Motif Stitch.
   

Expected outcome

Only the ears change to Cross Stitch (vintage, hand-sewn look) while the face remains a smooth Fill Stitch; the body changes to a patterned Motif Stitch (visual interest).

Managing Stability in Mixed Textures

This selective approach is how professional designs are made. However, it introduces a physical challenge: You now have a design with different densities pulling on the fabric in different ways.

The Fill Stitch face is pulling the fabric tight; the Cross Stitch ears are loose. This differential tension can cause ripples. This is why standard plastic hoops sometimes struggle—they clamp the edges but allow the center to slip. Many professionals switch to high-quality machine embroidery hoops that offer higher clamping force to keep the grainline straight, ensuring that these mixed textures align perfectly during the sew-out.

The “Why It Warps” Lesson: Density, Direction, and Pull Compensation Aren’t Optional When You Change Stitch Types

When you swap stitch algorithms, you’re not just changing appearance—you’re changing the mechanics of the sew-out.

The Physics of Stitch Changes

• Fill Stitch: High penetration count. Pushes fabric forward (in the direction of sewing) and pulls fabric in (narrowing the shape).
• Cross Stitch: Low penetration count. Minimal push/pull.
• Motif Stitch: Variable. Can create "hot spots" of high density where the pattern overlaps.

The Symptom: If your outline (satin stitch border) doesn't line up with the fill (the monkey's face spills over the line), it is usually because the Fill Stitch pulled the fabric inward more than the software predicted.

The Fix:

1. Software: Increase Pull Compensation on the Fill Stitch (e.g., from 0.2mm to 0.4mm).
2. Hardware: Improve stabilization. If you are struggling with "hoop burn" (the ring left by traditional hoops) or find yourself re-hooping constantly to get the tension right, consider investing in magnetic embroidery hoops. These frames use strong magnets to clamp the fabric without forcing it into a recession, reducing fabric distortion and eliminating hoop burn on sensitive items like velvet or performance wear.

Warning: Magnetic Safety
Magnetic frames contain powerful neodymium magnets.
* Pinch Hazard: Keep fingers clear when snapping the frame shut. It happens instantly and painfully.
* Medical Devices: Keep at least 6 inches away from pacemakers or insulin pumps.

The Stitch-Type Reality Check: Why Stippling Looked Bad (and How to Decide Faster)

Erica previews Stippling Stitch and notes it doesn’t work well for that specific shape.

That’s a common experience: Stippling is designed for large, open quilting blocks. When forced into a small, complex shape like a monkey face, the algorithm cannot complete the meandering path, resulting in ugly jumps and gaps.

Quick decision rule (so you don’t spiral for an hour)

If you have to zoom in 400% to see if the texture looks good, it will look like a mistake on the real garment. Texture should be visible from arm's length.

Decision Tree: Choosing a stitch type based on shape + goal

Use this logic flow to stop guessing:

1. Is the object smaller than a dime (10mm)?
   • YES: Use Satin Stitch (if narrow) or Standard Fill (if round). Avoid Motif/Cross stitch.
   • NO: Proceed to step 2.
2. Do you need high durability (Workwear/Uniforms)?
   • YES: Use Standard Fill. It wears the best.
   • NO: Proceed to step 3.
3. Do you want to mimic a specific style?
   • Quilt Look: Stipple / Cross Stitch.
   • Vintage Look: Cross Stitch.
   • Modern/Tech Look: Net Fill / Spiral.
   • Decorative/Girly: Motif Stitch (Hearts/Flowers).

Setup That Saves Your Sew-Out: How to Think About Hooping When You’re Testing New Textures

Even though this video is software-focused, your stitch-type experiments only become “real” when you stitch them. When you are doing multiple test sew-outs to compare textures, your biggest hidden time cost is the setup.

If you are using a hooping station for embroidery, you are already ahead of the game regarding placement repeatability. However, simply getting the garment in and out of the machine can be a bottleneck during testing.

For users of Brother home machines (like the SE1900 or PE800) who want easier loading, using a magnetic hoop for brother pe800 allows you to slide stabilizers and fabric in and out much faster than the traditional screw-tighten mechanism. This speed encourages you to run that extra test sew-out, leading to better final quality.

Setup Checklist (Pre-Flight)

• Fresh Needle: Is your needle sharp? Burred needles cause thread shreds on dense fills.
• Bobbin Check: Do you have enough bobbin thread for a dense Motif fill? (Motifs consume ~30% more thread).
• Stabilizer Match:
  • Stretchy Fabric: Cutaway Stabilizer (Absolute requirement).
  • Stable Fabric: Tearaway is okay.
• Hoop Tension: Drum skin tight. Tap it. It should sound distinct, not thudding.
• Consumables: Have your applique scissors and embroidery snips ready.

Operation: A Clean Workflow for “Play Around With It” Without Losing Control

Erica’s advice is simple: play around and see what looks best. That’s correct—but professionals “play” within a system so the file stays controllable.

Here’s a reliable workflow that mirrors what she demonstrates:

1. Isolate: Preview stitch types on one object (like the face) using Sewing Attributes to check density impact.
2. Verify: Avoid committing globally. Check the "Sewing Order" pane.
3. Assign: Apply texture where it adds value (Ears = Cross Stitch for contrast), and keep stable fills where you need clean coverage (Face = Fill).
4. Version: Save your file as Monkey_CrossStitch_v1.pes before you stitch. Never overwrite your original.
   

Operation Checklist (End-of-Session)

• Visual Scan: Are there any narrow columns designated as "Fill Stitch"? (Change them to Satin).
• Visual Scan: Are there any huge areas designated as "Satin Stitch"? (Change them to Fill, or the loops will snag).
• Simulate: Run the slow-motion simulator in PE-Design. Watch for weird jumps.
• Export: Ensure you are exporting to the correct version for your specific machine age.

Quick Troubleshooting: When a Stitch Type Looks Bad, Here’s the Fix That Actually Works

Use this table to diagnose issues after your test sew-out.

The Upgrade Path (Without the Hard Sell): When Tools Matter More Than Tweaks

Once you start mixing stitch types like Erica shows—Cross Stitch ears, Motif body, Fill face—you’ll naturally do more test sew-outs. That’s where workflow upgrades pay for themselves.

We often see beginners struggling not with their software skills, but with the frustration of mechanics.

• The Frustration: "I hate re-hooping for every test."
• The Search: Many users search for how to use magnetic embroidery hoop videos because they want to snap fabric in quickly without adjusting screws.
• The Solution: If you are staying on Brother home machines, a brother magnetic hoop removes the friction from your testing process. It keeps tension even across the mixed textures you just created.

When to consider a Machine Upgrade: If you find yourself rejecting jobs because your single-needle machine takes too long to change colors for these complex, multi-textured designs, or if you need to produce 50+ items a week, that is the trigger to look at SEWTECH multi-needle machines. They allow you to keep widely different stitch types running smoothly with dedicated needles for each color, drastically cutting down production time.

And if you’re the commenter asking “how to digitize with PE 10”—this stitch-type lesson is a perfect first building block. Digitizing is a big topic, but learning to control Sewing Attributes and Sewing Order is one of the fastest ways to stop feeling lost and start making designs that look intentional.

FAQ

• Q: In Brother PE-Design 10, what Sewing Attributes must be checked before changing stitch type to avoid gaps, puckering, or distortion?
  A: Check Density, Direction, and Pull Compensation first—those three settings decide whether the new stitch type will be sew-safe.
  • Open: Double-click the object to show the Sewing Attributes panel.
  • Verify: Keep Density in a typical 4.0–5.0 lines/mm range for standard 40wt thread as a safe starting point.
  • Set: Use Pull Compensation around 0.2–0.3 mm for stable wovens; knits often need more (follow machine/material guidance).
  • Success check: The preview should look clean and the test sew-out edge should stay aligned (no fill spilling past the outline).
  • If it still fails: Improve hooping/stabilization first, then increase Pull Compensation on the fill areas.
• Q: In Brother PE-Design 10, when should the “Global Change” stitch-type method be avoided for an entire design selection?
  A: Avoid Global Change when the design has small details or mixed functions (outline vs fill), because one stitch type will break the physics somewhere.
  • Use: Global Change only for quick mockups or very simple silhouettes.
  • Avoid: Applying heavy Fill or complex Motif stitches to tiny parts (eyes/details) where they turn into a thread ball.
  • Check: After any global change, review the Sewing Order tree and visually scan for narrow columns mistakenly set to Fill or huge areas set to Satin.
  • Success check: Each area still matches its job (details stay crisp, large areas stay stable).
  • If it still fails: Revert and switch to selective editing per layer in the Sewing Order pane.
• Q: In Brother PE-Design 10, how do you selectively change stitch types for only the ears or body using the Sewing Order pane?
  A: Use the Sewing Order tree as “layers” and change stitch types only on the selected component, not the whole design.
  • Expand: Click the plus (+) in the left Sewing Order pane to reveal individual components.
  • Select: Click only the target layer (example: Ears), then right-click and choose the new stitch type (example: Cross Stitch).
  • Repeat: Select another component (example: Body) and assign a different stitch type (example: Motif Stitch).
  • Success check: Only the chosen layer changes texture while the rest of the design stays unchanged.
  • If it still fails: Confirm the correct layer is highlighted in the Sewing Order list before right-clicking.
• Q: When changing stitch types in Brother PE-Design 10, how do you prevent needle breakage or thread shredding caused by speed vs stitch length?
  A: Reduce machine speed for long-stitch types (like Satin or certain Motifs) to prevent harsh deceleration and needle deflection.
  • Slow down: Run Standard Fill at a typical higher range, but run Motif/Satin slower (as a safe practice) when long stitches appear.
  • Listen: If the machine sound turns from steady “thump-thump” to harsh “slap/whip,” stop and reduce speed immediately.
  • Inspect: Replace a questionable needle—burrs often show up first during dense or long-stitch testing.
  • Success check: Stitching sound stays rhythmic and controlled, with no repeated thread shredding or needle strikes.
  • If it still fails: Change to a stronger needle size/type appropriate for the fabric and revisit stitch choice (shorter, more stable fills).
• Q: What does “drum-skin tight” hooping mean for machine embroidery, and how can you tell hoop tension is correct during stitch-type testing?
  A: “Drum-skin tight” means the hooped fabric is evenly taut so it won’t shift when different stitch densities pull in different directions.
  • Tap: Tap the hooped fabric—aim for a distinct, higher-pitched “drum” sound, not a dull thud.
  • Stabilize: Match stabilizer to fabric (cutaway is required for stretchy knits; tearaway is often fine for stable fabrics).
  • Recheck: After loading the hoop, lightly press the fabric surface; it should feel firm and even, not loose in the center.
  • Success check: The sew-out stays registered (outline aligns with fill) without ripples forming as stitch types change.
  • If it still fails: Increase stabilization and consider higher-clamping-force hoops/frames to reduce slipping during mixed textures.
• Q: After testing a stitch type from Brother PE-Design 10, how do you fix “gaps between outline and fill” on the actual sew-out?
  A: Treat outline/fill gaps as fabric pull first—tighten hooping and then adjust Pull Compensation on the Fill Stitch.
  • Check: Re-hoop with firm, even tension and confirm stabilizer matches fabric behavior (especially knits).
  • Adjust: Increase Pull Compensation on the fill object (example: 0.2 mm toward 0.4 mm) and re-test.
  • Verify: Keep density in a reasonable range so the fill isn’t over-pulling the material.
  • Success check: The satin outline lands cleanly on the fill edge with no fill “spilling” past the border.
  • If it still fails: Reduce the stress by choosing a less aggressive fill style (avoid overly dense or hotspot-heavy patterns).
• Q: What magnetic embroidery hoop safety rules should be followed when using magnetic frames for faster re-hooping during test sew-outs?
  A: Treat magnetic hoops as pinch hazards and keep them away from certain medical devices.
  • Protect: Keep fingers clear when closing—magnetic frames can snap shut instantly.
  • Separate: Keep magnetic frames at least 6 inches away from pacemakers or insulin pumps.
  • Control: Close the frame deliberately on a flat surface instead of “letting it jump” into place.
  • Success check: The hoop closes smoothly without finger pinches and the fabric remains evenly clamped without hoop burn on sensitive materials.
  • If it still fails: Slow the handling process and confirm the fabric/stabilizer stack is not too thick for the frame to seat evenly.