Stop Wasting Fabric: Build a Reversible Christmas Tree Garland on a Brother Dream Machine with My Design Center (and a Cleaner Floating Setup)

If you have ever looked at a cute sewn bunting tutorial and thought, “I can embroider that—but I’m not hooping a whole fat quarter just to stitch a 6-inch shape,” you have found your solution.

This project is a masterclass in controlled efficiency. It is a reversible Christmas tree bunting piece made entirely in-the-hoop (ITH). You will draw the tree in Brother My Design Center, convert it to stitches, and then stitch it onto a “sandwich” (front fabric + batting + back fabric) that is floated over a hooped tearaway stabilizer.

The result is clean, fast, and remarkably professional. However, success in embroidery is usually 80% preparation and 20% stitching. Follow this order of operations to ensure your fabric doesn't shift and your edges remain crisp.

Calm the Panic: My Design Center Won’t “Save” Your Work Unless You Do This One Thing

My Design Center is powerful, but it has a specific memory architecture that catches beginners off guard. Think of the Design Center as a "scratchpad" (RAM), not a hard drive (ROM). When you move from Design Center into Preview/Set (turning the shape into stitch data), the machine wipes the scratchpad.

Here is the operational rule: Treat your Design Center drawing like a temporary draft.

Once you are satisfied with the outline and stitch properties, you must convert it to an embroidery pattern by pressing Set. Immediately after, save the embroidery pattern to the machine’s memory. Only then can you retrieve it to add more trees, duplicate, rotate, and batch them in the hoop.

That single button press is the difference between making one cute ornament and producing a commercial-quality garland without re-drawing a single line.

Draw a Christmas Tree in Brother My Design Center Using Triangle Shapes (Outline Only)

In the video, the tree starts as stacked triangle outlines. This is a lesson in geometric construction. We are not drawing freehand; we are assembling primitives.

What to select first

1. Open My Design Center.
2. Navigate to the Shapes menu.
3. Choose the Traingle shape.
4. Confirm the line type is Outline only (ensure the Fill region is turned off/grayed out).

That “outline only” choice is critical because this project relies on a clean perimeter stitch that acts as your raw-edge applique finish.

Build the stacked triangle structure

• Create a small triangle for the top tier.
• Duplicate the triangle (this ensures consistent angles) rather than selecting a new shape.
• Resize using Proportional Controls (the arrows pointing outward) to make the next tier larger.
• Stack the triangles manually to form the tree silhouette.

Mel demonstrates starting with a top triangle about one inch high, then progressively enlarging the lower tiers so the tree widens toward the base.

Pro tip (Production Digitizing Standard): When stacking primitives, aim for clean, moderate intersections. You need enough overlap to erase the seams later, but not so much that the lines become a tangled knot. Visualizing the final shape as a single silhouette helps you place the components correctly.

Get a Single Clean Perimeter: Merge Triangles with the Square Eraser (Zoom Is the Secret)

Once the triangles are stacked, you will see internal horizontal lines where the shapes overlap. If stitched as-is, the machine would sew those lines, ruining the effect. You must surgically remove them.

Mel’s method is reliable because it focuses on precision.

• Select the Square Eraser.
• Zoom In to at least 200% or 400% at the intersections.
• Adjust the eraser size to the smallest setting.
• Erase only the internal horizontal lines.
  

Two details that save you from rework

1. Zoom dictates accuracy. If you attempt to erase while zoomed out, your finger or stylus creates a "blind spot," and the eraser tool acts blunt. Zooming in makes the eraser act sharp.
2. Undo works in strokes. The machine records one "undo" step every time you lift your stylus. Erase in short, controlled strokes. If you make a mistake, you only lose the last two seconds of work, not the whole intersection.

Watch out: If you accidentally slice through the outer contour, do not try to patch it by drawing a line back in. It will rarely match perfectly. It is faster to hit Undo and re-erase with a steadier hand.

Add the Trunk: Use a Rectangle Shape, Then Erase the Inner Seam Line

A Christmas tree outline requires a trunk to look grounded.

Mel executes this addition follows:

1. Return to the Shapes menu.
2. Select a simple rectangle.
3. Resize to trunk proportions (narrow width, short height).
4. Align it to the bottom center of the tree.
5. Zoom In and erase the seam line where the trunk overlaps the bottom branches.

Conceptually, this is identical to merging the triangles. You are removing the barrier between the trunk and the tree to allow the embroidery thread to travel continuously without cutting or jumping.

Choose the Right Outline Stitch: Set Line Property to the Double-Run (Not a Bean/Triple)

The structural integrity of this project depends entirely on the outline stitch type. Choosing the wrong stitch here can cause the fabric to shred or pucker.

In the video, Mel navigates to Line Properties and selects a Running Stitch (specifically a Double-Run).

• Double-Run: Stitches around the shape once, then tracks back over itself. This provides definition without bulk.
• Triple/Bean Stitch: Goes forward-back-forward on every stitch. Avoid this. It creates heavy density that can perforate the stabilizer and pucker floating fabric.

She then changes the line color to green and uses the Bucket Tool to touch the outline.

Why change the color? This is a visual confirmation check. When the black outline turns green, you confirm that the machine recognizes the entire tree as one closed loop. If only the top triangle turns green, you know you have a gap in your line connection that needs fixing.

Expert Insight (Physics of "Float" Stitching): A double-run outline exerts minimal "pull compensation" force on the fabric. Since we are floating the fabric (not hooping it), we must keep stitch density low to prevent the layers from shifting under the presser foot.

Size It Like a Pro: Use the On-Screen Dimensions Before You Convert

Mel verifies the physical dimensions on-screen. Numbers don’t lie.

The video references these specific dimensions:

• Original Final Size: 6.11" x 4.53"
• Resized Target: 5.89" x 4.44"
  

If you use this for bunting, exact sizing is less important than relative consistency. Pick a size that allows you to fit at least two trees in your largest hoop while leaving a 0.5" cutting margin between them.

Batch More Trees Per Hoop: Save, Set, Duplicate, Rotate (and Leave Cutting Room)

Efficiency is the difference between a hobby and a hustle. After converting the drawing to an embroidery pattern, Mel saves it, then re-opens the file to lay out a batch.

She demonstrates:

• Loading the saved tree file.
• Importing a second instance of the tree.
• Rotating the second tree 180° to nest them together (like Tetris).
• Duplicating to fill the available hoop area.
  

Spacing Rule (The "Thumb Width" Standard): Do not place designs closer than 0.75" (approx. 2cm) apart. You need room for your pinking shears to navigate between the trees without accidentally slicing into the stitching of the neighbor tree.

The “Floating” Sandwich That Saves Fabric: Hoop Tearaway Only, Then Use a Basting Box

Here lies the core workflow: The Float Method. This prevents "hoop burn" on your nice fabric and saves material.

Mel adds a Basting Box in the embroidery edit screen logic:

1. Enter the Embroidery Edit screen.
2. Select the Basting/frame option (flower icon inside a square box on many Brother models).
3. Set the margin to keep the basting stitch close to the design.

The Physics of Stability: You stitch the basting box directly onto the hooped stabilizer first. This creates a visible template. You then place your fabric over this template. This is the heart of the floating embroidery hoop method—your fabric alignment is determined by the stitched box, not by guessing where the center of the hoop is.

The “Hidden” Prep: Consumables & Tension

Floating creates a risk: fabric shifting. To counter this, you need friction.

• Stabilizer: Use a medium-weight Tearaway. Hoop it drum tight. Tap it with your finger—it should sound like a drum (thump-thump). If it sounds loose (flap-flap), tighten it.
• Adhesive: A light mist of temporary spray adhesive (e.g., 505 Spray) or a few strips of painter’s tape are essential to hold the batting smooth.

Prep Checklist (Do this before touching the screen)

• Stabilizer: Tearaway hooped tight; no wrinkles.
• Fabrics: Batting, Front, and Back fabrics cut 1 inch larger than the design on all sides.
• Adhesives: Blue painter's tape or embroidery tape ready.
• Needle: Fresh 75/11 or 80/12 Sharp needle (Ballpoint is okay, but Sharps pierce batting better).
• Safety: Scissors and loose items cleared from the embroidery arm path.

Build the Reversible Stack: Batting + Front Fabric on Top, Back Fabric on the Underside

Mel’s sandwiching order is specific to hide the stabilizer inside the tree, not on the back.

1. Front of Hoop (Inner Ring side): Place Batting down first inside the basting guidelines.
2. Place Front Fabric on top of batting, Face Up.
3. Tape the corners securely to the stabilizer.
4. Flip the Hoop over.
5. Underside of Hoop: Place Backing Fabric so the "Right Side" (Pattern side) is facing Outward.
6. Tape the backing fabric corners securely to the underside of the stabilizer.
   

Expert Tip: Use the same color thread in the bobbin as you use in the top needle (e.g., Green Top / Green Bobbin). Since both sides are visible, standard white bobbin thread will look messy on the back of the bunting.

Decision Tree: Stabilizer + Sandwich Choices

Use this logic to prevent puckering based on your materials:

• Scenario A: Standard Quilting Cotton (Stable)
  • Action: Use Tearaway Stabilizer + Tape + Float method.
• Scenario B: Stretchy Knit or Slippery Satin (Unstable)
  • Action: Do not float. Hoop a Cutaway stabilizer, use spray adhesive to secure the fabric, or use a clamping system. Floating slippery fabric on tearaway often causes drag-lines.
• Scenario C: High Volume Batching (50+ Trees)
  • Action: Tape is too slow. Upgrade to a magnetic frame system (see Upgrade section).

Stitch in the Right Order: Baste First (Again), Then Run the Tree Outline

Once the sandwich is taped, return the hoop to the machine.

1. Run the Basting Stitch again. This stitches through all three layers (Front, Batting, Back), effectively stapling them together so they cannot shift.
2. Run the Tree Outline.

Operational Speed Limit: Because you are floating multiple layers which creates drag, slow your machine down. If your machine runs at 1000 SPM (Stitches Per Minute), lower it to 600 SPM. This reduces the momentum that causes layers to creep or shift.

Warning: Keep your fingers clear of the needle zone when smoothing the fabric. Do not “chase” a wrinkle with your finger while the machine is stitching perfectly. Use the eraser end of a pencil if you must hold fabric down.

Setup Checklist (Right before you press Start)

• Top thread and Bobbin thread match in color.
• Sandwich is taped and lies flat (no bubbles).
• Hoop is locked securely into the carriage.
• Machine speed reduced to ~600 SPM.

Cut Without Regret: Remove Tearaway Before You Pinking-Shear the Edge

Mel’s finishing sequence prevents the headache of picking white fuzzy bits out of zigzag cuts.

The Strict Finishing Sequence:

1. Remove the projects from the hoop.
2. Remove all tape.
3. Rough cut the trees apart with standard scissors (leave 1 inch margin).
4. Tear away the stabilizer. Grip the tree firmly and tear the stabilizer away from the stitching.
   • Crucial Step: You must remove the stabilizer from between the layers before final trimming.
5. Pinking Shears: Now, trim the final edge with pinking shears, staying about 1/8" to 1/4" away from the stitch line.
   
   
   

If you pinking-shear before removing the stabilizer, the zigzag teeth will trap tiny paper fibers that are impossible to remove, leaving your ornament with a messy white fuzz halo.

Operation Checklist (The Finish Line)

• Stabilizer completely removed from the perimeter.
• Basting stitches removed (if visible).
• Inspect for loose thread tails and trim flush.
• Check the back side for loopies or tension issues.

Hanging the Garland: Ribbon Loop, Sewn Loop, or Hot Glue (Pick Your Reality)

To turn the trees into bunting, you need a mechanism to string them.

• The Purist Way: Sew a small folded ribbon loop to the top peak of the tree using a sewing machine.
• The Fast Way: Hot glue a small loop of twine or ribbon to the back.
• The Mel Way: As mentioned in the video, she sewed hers directly to the garland string using decorative gold thread.

The Two Mistakes That Waste the Most Time (and How to Fix Them)

Even without comment data, the physics of this process reveals common failure points.

Symptom 1: The "Jagged Trunk"

• Visual: The connection between tree and trunk looks stepped or jagged, not seamless.
• Likely Cause: Erasing while zoomed out, or using an eraser tool that was too large.
• Quick Fix: Don't try to fix it with thread. Go back to Design Center, zoom to 400%, and refine the eraser cut.
• Prevention: Always zoom in fully before erasing intersections.

Symptom 2: Fabric Pucker or "Bubble" inside the Tree

• Visual: The fabric isn't flat; it bubbles up inside the stitched outline.
• Likely Cause: The floating layers shifted because the tape gave way or the basting box was skipped.
• Quick Fix: Unfortunately, you cannot iron this out. You must unpick or discard.
• Prevention: Use a light spray adhesive (505) between batting and fabric layers to unite them into one unit before floating.

When Tape Starts Feeling Like a Job: Upgrade Your Holding Method for Speed

If you plan to make these garlands for a craft fair or holiday gifts, the "Tape, Flip, Tape" routine will become the bottleneck. It is hard on the wrists and slows down production significantly.

Consider upgrading your toolset based on your volume:

• Trigger: You are dreading the setup process, or your tape residue is gumming up the needle.
• Criteria: If you are producing more than 20 items, the time saved by a better clamping system pays for the tool.
• Level 1: Better Consumables. Switch from painter's tape to specific embroidery residue-free tape.
• Level 2: Tool Upgrade. For Brother owners, switching to a magnetic hoop for brother dream machine creates a massive workflow improvement. These hoops hold the sandwich firmly without the need for adhesives or tape on the underside. The magnets clamp the layers instantly.
• Level 3: Large Format. If you are using a top-tier machine, look for magnetic hoops for brother luminaire. These allow you to hoop larger batches (e.g., 6 trees at once) with zero hand strain.

Warning: Magnetic hoops contain powerful neodymium magnets. They can pinch fingers severely if they snap together unexpectedly. Persons with pacemakers should consult their doctor before handling high-strength magnetic embroidery accessories.

Commercial Efficiency Note

For hobbyists, time is free. For sellers, time is cost. A repeatable hooping system—often used with hooping stations—ensures every tree is perfectly vertical and centered without measuring. This "assembly line" approach is how profitable Etsy shops operate. You layout the next hoop while the current one stitches.

If You Want to Sell These: Batch Layout + Tool ROI

The beauty of this project is its low thread cost. Your investment is almost entirely labor.

To make this profitable:

1. Batch: Fit as many trees as possible into one hoop (using the rotation method).
2. Stabilize: Use a rigid tearaway to allow for faster cutting.
3. Speed Up Hooping: If you find yourself fighting the hoop screw or dealing with "hoop burn" marks on velvet or corduroy trees, embroidery hoops magnetic are the industry standard for fast, mark-free hold.

When you upgrade to a defined workflow like a hoop master embroidery hooping station combined with magnetic frames, you eliminate the variable of "human error" in alignment.

The “Why” That Keeps This Project Looking Crisp: Controlled Friction

Let’s summarize the physics of success for this reversible bunting:

• Double-Run Outline: Keeps density low to prevent distortion.
• Basting Box: Anchors the floating "sandwich" so it acts like hooped fabric.
• Tearing Order: Eliminates the "fuzzy edge" problem.

If you are running a Brother machine and want to eliminate the taping struggle entirely, investing in magnetic embroidery hoops for brother transforms this from a tedious chore into a rapid-fire production line. Happy stitching!

FAQ

• Q: Why does Brother My Design Center lose the drawing when switching to Preview/Set, and how does Brother machine memory saving prevent re-drawing the Christmas tree outline?
  A: Brother My Design Center treats the drawing as temporary, so press Set and then save the embroidery pattern immediately before doing any duplicating or batching.
  • Convert: Press Set to turn the drawing into stitch data.
  • Save: Store the embroidery pattern to the machine’s memory right away.
  • Reload: Re-open the saved file, then duplicate/rotate for batching.
  • Success check: The saved tree design can be reloaded and duplicated without the screen returning to a blank draft.
  • If it still fails… Repeat the workflow from the draft screen and confirm the file actually appears in the machine memory list after saving.
• Q: How do Brother My Design Center “Triangle Shape + Square Eraser” steps prevent internal overlap lines from stitching when merging stacked triangle outlines into one Christmas tree silhouette?
  A: Zoom in and erase only the internal seam lines with the smallest Square Eraser so the final outline becomes one clean perimeter.
  • Zoom: Increase to at least 200%–400% before touching any intersections.
  • Reduce: Set the Square Eraser to the smallest size.
  • Erase: Remove only the internal horizontal overlap lines (not the outer contour).
  • Success check: Only one continuous outer outline remains visible, with no internal horizontal lines across the tree.
  • If it still fails… Use Undo (short strokes help) and re-erase; do not “patch” the outer contour by drawing a new line.
• Q: Which Brother My Design Center line property should be used for a floating ITH Christmas tree outline, and why does a Triple/Bean stitch cause puckering on floated fabric?
  A: Use a Double-Run running stitch for the outline; avoid Triple/Bean because the heavier density can pucker and distort floated layers.
  • Select: Set Line Properties to a Running Stitch (Double-Run).
  • Verify: Change the outline color (e.g., green) and bucket-fill the outline as a connection check.
  • Inspect: Fix any gaps if only part of the outline changes color.
  • Success check: The entire tree outline changes to the selected color as one closed loop.
  • If it still fails… Return to the intersections and refine eraser merges until the outline is continuous.
• Q: How does the “floating embroidery” method with hooped medium-weight Tearaway stabilizer and a Brother basting box stop fabric shifting for a reversible tree bunting sandwich?
  A: Stitch a basting box onto hooped tearaway first, then float and secure the sandwich so alignment comes from the stitched box—not guessing the hoop center.
  • Hoop: Hoop medium-weight tearaway drum tight before anything else.
  • Bas­te: Stitch the basting box on stabilizer first as a placement template.
  • Secure: Use light temporary spray adhesive or tape to prevent batting/fabric creep, then baste again through all layers.
  • Success check: Tapped stabilizer sounds like a drum (“thump-thump”), and the sandwich stays flat with no bubbles after the second basting pass.
  • If it still fails… Re-hoop tighter and do not skip the second basting stitch through all layers; shifting usually means the hold-down method wasn’t strong enough.
• Q: What is the correct layer order for a reversible floating embroidery “sandwich” (batting + front fabric + back fabric), and how does matching bobbin thread color keep both sides clean?
  A: Place batting and front fabric on the hoop front, tape, then flip the hoop and tape backing on the underside, using matching top and bobbin thread because both sides will show.
  • Place: On the hoop front, lay batting first, then front fabric face up within the basted box.
  • Flip: Turn the hoop over and place backing fabric with the right/pattern side facing outward, then tape corners.
  • Match: Use the same color in bobbin and top thread when both sides are visible.
  • Success check: The back side does not show contrasting white bobbin lines and looks intentionally finished.
  • If it still fails… Re-check the backing orientation before stitching and re-thread with a matching bobbin if the back looks messy.
• Q: What causes “fabric pucker or bubble inside the tree” during floating ITH stitching, and what is the fastest prevention method using basting and light adhesive?
  A: The layers shifted because the hold-down failed or basting was skipped; prevent it by uniting layers with light adhesive and basting through all layers before the outline.
  • Add: Use a light spray adhesive between batting and fabric layers to create friction and unity before floating.
  • Bas­te: Run the basting stitch again through all three layers after taping.
  • Slow: Reduce speed to about 600 SPM to reduce drag-related creep.
  • Success check: The stitched outline lies flat with no trapped “bubble” areas inside the perimeter.
  • If it still fails… Increase hold-down (more secure tape/adhesive) and confirm the stabilizer was hooped drum tight; floating slippery/stretch materials often needs a different stabilization approach.
• Q: What is the safest way to prevent finger injuries when smoothing fabric during Brother embroidery stitching, and what should be used instead of fingers near the needle zone?
  A: Keep hands out of the needle zone while the machine runs; if fabric must be held, use a tool (like the eraser end of a pencil) and slow the machine down.
  • Stop: Pause before adjusting any fabric near the needle path.
  • Reduce: Lower stitching speed (about 600 SPM for this layered float setup).
  • Use: Hold fabric with a non-hand tool if needed, not fingertips.
  • Success check: No hands enter the embroidery arm/needle area while the machine is moving.
  • If it still fails… Re-tape or re-baste instead of “chasing” wrinkles during stitching; chasing usually creates the safety risk.
• Q: When does taped floating embroidery become too slow for production, and what is the upgrade path from better embroidery tape to magnetic embroidery hoops to SEWTECH multi-needle machines?
  A: When “tape, flip, tape” becomes the bottleneck (or leaves residue), move from consumable upgrades to magnetic clamping, then consider multi-needle capacity if batching demand keeps rising.
  • Level 1: Switch to residue-free embroidery tape when painter’s tape slows setup or leaves buildup.
  • Level 2: Use magnetic embroidery hoops/frames to clamp layers quickly and reduce repeated taping for higher volume runs.
  • Level 3: Upgrade to SEWTECH multi-needle embroidery machines when output goals require faster batching and less stop-time for thread handling.
  • Success check: Setup time per hoop drops noticeably, and fewer pieces are lost to shifting or inconsistent placement.
  • If it still fails… Standardize the process with a repeatable hooping workflow (often via a hooping station) so alignment is not dependent on manual measuring.