Hatch Cross Stitch Essentials: Set Fabric Count, Control Density, and Save EMX Files Without Regrets

Cross-stitch digitizing often looks deceptively simple—until your first test stitchout comes back looking like a disaster. You might see "stripes" of missing thread, gaps where fabric peaks through, or a design so dense and stiff it feels more like a piece of cardboard than embroidery.

If you are feeling that distinct spike of panic because your machine is making a grinding sound trying to push through a bulletproof patch of thread—good. That panic means you have high standards.

Hatch Cross Stitch operates in its own unique environment for a reason: it uses distinct stitch logic and a completely different method of measuring size and density compared to standard tatami or satin digitizing. Once you understand the "Holy Trinity" of Cross Stitch digitizing logic—Fabric Count (SPI) + Thread Count + Stabilization—you will stop guessing and start predicting exactly how your machine will behave.

Keep Hatch Embroidery Open: Launching Hatch Cross Stitch the Right Way (So Nothing Breaks Mid-Session)

Hatch Cross Stitch runs as a standalone application window, but it is tethered deeply to the main Hatch Embroidery architecture. It must be accessed from the Hatch Embroidery File menu, and the main Hatch Embroidery program must stay open in the background while you work in the Cross Stitch window.

The first time you do this, it might feel counterintuitive to have two windows open, but this is the standard operating procedure.

When the Cross Stitch window opens, you will encounter two primary modes. Understanding the clear distinction between them is critical to avoiding frustration:

• Design Mode: This is where you place stitches, edit thread colors, and refine patterns.
• Picture Mode: This is strictly for manipulating your backdrop image (no stitches are editable here).

Think of these as two transparent layers you toggle between:

• In Picture Mode: You have full control to load, rotate, skew, resize, and dim the bitmap image.
• In Design Mode: The picture is locked (protected) so you don't accidentally drag it out of alignment while placing stitches.

Cognitive Check: If you ever feel like the software is "frozen" or "locked" because you can't click an image, stop. Check your tab. You are likely in Design Mode.

Warning: When testing new cross-stitch designs, keep hands and extraction tools strictly away from the needle area while the machine is running. Cross-stitch patterns involve rapid X-Y movement; if a needle breaks due to density issues, shards can fly. Always hit STOP before reaching into the hoop area.

The “Hidden” Prep Pros Do First: Manual Access, Visual Contrast, and a Workspace That Doesn’t Lie to You

Before you place a single cross, you need to set up a digital environment that highlights potential problems rather than hiding them.

Find the reference manual inside the software

Hatch Cross Stitch includes a specific reference manual within the Help menu. Do not ignore this. Use it as your safety net to clarify what specific icons represent.

Set contrast so your eyes don’t get tricked

The video demonstrates changing the background color or even selecting a fabric texture from the Hatch folder. This is not just for aesthetics; it is a critical quality control step.

• The Trap: If you digitize white thread on a white background, you cannot visually judge density or spacing gaps.
• The Fix: If you plan to stitch on dark denim, set your software background to dark grey. If stitching on white linen, set the background to a soft blue or grey to create visual contrast.

Prep Checklist (Complete Before Digitizing):

• Software Check: Confirm Hatch Embroidery remains open in the background.
• Reference Ready: Locate the Cross Stitch manual in the Help menu.
• Contrast Check: Change the background color so your theoretical thread pops visually against the screen.
• Hoop Strategy: Decide your hoop size now. Do not wait until the design is finished to realize it doesn't fit your commercial or home hoop.
• Asset Management: Create a specific project folder. Save your source image and your future .EMX file here immediately.

Make the Grid Work for You: Major Grid Spacing “10” and Color Tweaks That Speed Up Placement

In standard embroidery, we measure in millimeters. In cross stitch, the "Grid" is your absolute ruler. The software measures everything in squares per inch.

Action: Configure your grid for speed.

1. Right-click the grid icon to open settings.
2. Set Major Grid Spacing to 10 (meaning 10 squares per major grid line).
3. Adjust Colors: Change major and minor grid lines to colors that contrast sharply with your background image.

Why "10"? The number 10 is the industry "Sweet Spot." It matches the counting logic used in traditional hand cross-stitch patterns. It is large enough to count visually at a glance (Preventing eye strain), but small enough to keep your place when tracing a complex floral motif or geometric border.

Lock in the Hoop Boundary Early: Using the 150×150mm Hoop to Prevent Surprise Resizing

The instructor demonstrates using a 150 × 150 mm hoop to visualize the design boundary. This is your reality check. The digital canvas is infinite; your physical machine is not.

Action: Set your constraints.

• Navigate to hoop options, or Right-click the hoop tool and strictly select the hoop you own.
• Ensure "Display Hoop" is toggled ON.

Why does this matter instantly? Cross-stitch designs are rigid. Unlike satin stitches which can be scaled down 10-20% with density compensation, cross-stitch designs do not scale gracefully. If you digitize a pattern that is 155mm wide, and your hoop is 150mm, you cannot simply "shrink it" later without changing the Fabric Count (which changes the texture) or cutting the design (which risks alignment errors).

Fabric Count (Stitches Per Inch) Is Your Size Dial: 14 vs 10 vs 18 Without the Confusion

This is the concept that confuses non-cross-stitchers. In Hatch Cross Stitch, Fabric Count = Size.

The Software measures this in SPI (Stitches Per Inch).

• Go to Settings > Fabric Count.
• Standard (Beginner Safe Zone): 14 SPI. This mimics standard Aida cloth. It provides a balanced look—not too chunky, not too fine.
• The "Zoom In" Effect: Change settings to 10 SPI. The software puts fewer crosses in an inch, meaning each cross must be physically larger. The design grows in size.
• The "Zoom Out" Effect: Change settings to 18 SPI. The software packs more crosses into an inch, meaning each cross must be physically smaller. The design shrinks.

The Golden Rule: Changing Fabric Count changes the physical size of the X, NOT the number of X's in the pattern.

• Low SPI (e.g., 10-12): Great for heavy threads (12wt or 30wt) and thick fabrics like sweatshirts. The large X allows room for the thread to breathe.
• High SPI (e.g., 16-18): Creates high-detail, "photorealistic" shading. However, beginners beware: tiny X's accumulate bulk rapidly if you use standard 40wt thread.

Thread Count (2/4/6) Is Your Density Lever: How Many Passes Each “X” Really Gets

Once you chose the size of your X (Fabric Count), you must choose the thickness of the X. This is the Thread Count.

In the bottom toolbar (Stitch and Color Bar), select Fills, then use the dropdown to choose 2, 4, or 6 threads.

What this actually controls: This setting tells the machine how many times to re-trace the legs of the X.

• 2 Threads: Light coverage. Good for high SPI (18+) or delicate fabrics.
• 4 Threads: Standard coverage. The industry default for 14 SPI.
• 6 Threads: Heavy coverage. Creates a raised, 3D effect, but significantly increases stitch count (and run time).

The Data Reality: Look at the stitch count explosion on a simple flower motif:

• 2 threads: ~1,400 stitches.
• 4 threads: ~3,200 stitches.
• 6 threads: ~5,000 stitches.

Production Reality: Jumping from 4 to 6 threads nearly doubles your run time and stitch stress. If you are running high-stitch-count productions, the stability of your framing becomes the difference between profit and disaster. Professional shops often rely on robust magnetic hoops for embroidery machines to clamp fabric firmly without the "hoop burn" or slippage that often occurs when a 5,000-stitch design starts pounding a small area of fabric.

Picture Mode vs Design Mode: Load, Rotate, Skew, and Resize a Bitmap Without Fighting the “Protected” Layer

The workflow in the video is disciplined. Follow this sequence to avoid the "Why can't I click this?" frustration.

1. Switch Tab: Click Picture Mode.
2. Import: Click Load Picture.
3. Visual Audit: Is the image clear?
4. Transform: Use the handles to Resize, Rotate, or Skew (straighten) the image.
5. Precision: Right-click the image to enter exact numeric dimensions (e.g., locking width to 92mm).
6. Lock it down: Switch to Design Mode.

Why this separation exists: Once you switch to Design Mode, the software "protects" the image. You can see it (dimmed), but you cannot touch it. This is a safety feature to ensure your stitch grid remains perfectly aligned with your source art, even if your mouse slips.

Setup That Prevents Stripes and Pull: Stabilization Choices for Stitch-Intensive Cross Stitch

The instructor issues a crucial warning: Stitch-intensive designs create "Pull".

The Symptom: You finish a beautiful design, take it off the machine, and see vertical white lines (gaps) between your crosses. It looks like a retro TV screen with scan lines.

The Physics: Cross stitch creates thousands of needle penetrations in a strict grid. Each stitch tugs the fabric slightly inward. Over 10,000 stitches, that microscopic tug accumulates, distorting the fabric so the next row of stitches lands slightly "off," creating a gap.

The Decision Tree: Matching Fabric to Stabilizer

You cannot stop physics, but you can stabilize against it.

1. Stable Woven Fabric (Denim/Canvas):
   • Risk: Moderate.
   • Rx: Medium-weight Tear-away (if stitch count is low) or lightweight Cut-away. Hooping must be "drum-tight" (listen for the thump).
2. Unstable Fabric (T-Shirts/Knits):
   • Risk: High. The grid will distort.
   • Rx: No-Show Mesh Cut-away (Poly mesh) + Temporary Spray Adhesive. Do not rely on tear-away alone; the perforations will tear prematurely during the high-impact cross stitching.
3. Production/Slippery Fabric (Performance Wear):
   • Risk: Severe. Fabric slips in the hoop.
   • Rx: Heavy Cut-away + High-Friction Hooping. This is a classic scenario where upgrading to a hooping for embroidery machine technique involving magnetic clamping can save the garment. Magnets distribute pressure evenly across the frame, preventing the "hourglass" distortion common in traditional screw-hoops.

The "Stripes" Fix: If you still see stripes, do not just increase density. Check your stabilization. 90% of cross-stitch gaps are caused by fabric shifting, not software settings.

The Bulk Trap: Why High Fabric Count + 6 Threads Can Turn Beautiful Detail Into a Brick

Novices often think: "I want maximum quality, so I will choose the highest SPI (18) and the highest Thread Count (6)."

The Result: Bulletproof embroidery. The patch will be so dense it stands up on its own. If this is on a T-shirt, it will feel like a heavy plastic badge against the skin.

The Expert Balance: You must trade off Size vs. Density.

• If using High SPI (16-18): Drop Thread Count to 2. The small crosses provide enough coverage naturally.
• If using 6 Threads: Drop SPI to 10-12. The thick thread needs the larger physical space to lay flat without piling up.

Tile View vs Stitch View: The Fastest Way to Place Stitches Like a Pattern, Not Like a Painting

Hatch offers two essential view toggles:

• Stitch View: Shows simulated thread texture.
• Tile View: Shows flat colored blocks.

Workflow Hack: Use Tile View for the heavy lifting of digitizing. It removes the visual noise of thread direction and lets you focus on the pattern logic—"Does this green square touch this red square?"

Switch to Stitch View only for the final aesthetic check—"Does this color blend look too chunky?"

Read the Status Bar Like a Technician: Stitch Count and Zoom Are Your Early Warning System

Train your eyes to scan the bottom status bar frequently.

• Coordinates: Where is my mouse?
• Zoom Factor: Am I too close to see the big picture?
• Stitch Count: The danger metric.

Why Stitch Count Matters: If you design a small 3-inch logo and the status bar reads "18,000 stitches," stop immediately. You have likely combined High SPI with High Thread Count. A design that small should likely be 5,000-8,000 stitches. An 18k stitch count on a 3-inch logo will likely bore a hole in your fabric or break needles.

Save EMX Like Your Future Self Depends on It: “Stitches-Only” Editing and the No-Autosave Reality

Crucial Warning: Hatch Cross Stitch does not auto-save. If your computer crashes, your work is gone.

File Logic:

• Native Format: .EMX. This is your "Master File."
• Characteristics: It is a machine-file format (stitch based), yet Hatch maintains its editability as long as you keep the EMX file.
• Workflow: Save as .EMX immediately. Update the save every 10 minutes.

Compatibility Note: You can open an .EMX file inside the standard Hatch Embroidery software to combine it with lettering. However, you should generally open it as a "stitch file" (leave it as stitches) rather than converting it to objects, to preserve the precise cross-stitch texture. You cannot save an .EMX file from the main Hatch window. You must be in the Cross Stitch window to save your master.

Production-Minded Upgrade Path: When Better Hooping Tools Beat “More Settings”

Software settings are powerful, but they cannot fix physics. When you move from hobby stitching to doing runs of 10 or 20 items, user fatigue and framing inconsistency become your biggest enemies.

Diagnose your pain point:

• Wrist Fatigue/Slow Setup? Traditional screw hoops require repetitive loosening and tightening. This slows you down.
• Hoop Burn? Leaving permanent rings on delicate velvet or performance wear guarantees a ruined product.
• Inconsistent Alignment? If every shirt has the logo in a slightly different spot.

The Solution Ladder:

1. Level 1 (Technique): Use better stabilizers and temporary spray.
2. Level 2 (Tooling): Switch to a magnetic embroidery hoop. Magnetic frames snap fabric into place instantly. They adjust automatically to different fabric thicknesses (from thin cotton to thick fleece) without needing to adjust a screw. This consistency dramatically reduces the "fabric pull" that causes cross-stitch gaps.
3. Level 3 (Scale): If you are spending 50% of your time hooping, utilize a specific hooping station for machine embroidery alongside your magnetic frames to standardize placement across every garment.

Warning: Commercial magnetic frames (especially MaggieFrame or similar heavy-duty brands) utilize powerful neodymium magnets. Pinch Hazard: They damage fingers instantly if handled carelessly. Safety: Keep them away from pacemakers, heart monitors, credit cards, and smartphones.

Operation Checklist: A Clean “First Stitch” Routine That Prevents Most Beginner Mistakes

Run this checklist mentally or physically before every export.

Operation Checklist (Pre-Export):

• Mode Check: Ensure you are in Design Mode (image locked).
• Physical Check: Hoop boundary is set to 150x150mm (or your actual hoop).
• Size Logic: Confirm Fabric Count (Standard 14? Chunky 10?).
• Density Logic: Confirm Thread Count (Standard 4? Heavy 6?).
• Safety Check: Glance at the Stitch Count. Is it realistic for the fabric size?
• Preservation: Save the Master .EMX file now.

Quick Troubleshooting: Symptom → Likely Cause → Fix You Can Actually Test

The Real Win: Predictable Cross Stitch Digitizing That Stitches Clean

If you take only three habits from this lesson, make them these:

1. Set hoop and grid early so you are designing inside reality.
2. Treat Fabric Count as Size and Thread Count as Density—never confuse the two.
3. Stabilize for Pull: Cross stitch is stressful on fabric. If you aren't sure, use a magnetic frame and stronger backing.

The detailed, hand-stitched look is one of the most profitable styles in machine embroidery because it carries a high perceived value. By mastering these setup steps, you ensure that value transfers from your screen to your fabric without the headache of trial and error.

FAQ

• Q: Why does Hatch Cross Stitch let me load a bitmap image but I cannot click, move, or resize the picture in Hatch Cross Stitch Design Mode?
  A: Switch to Hatch Cross Stitch Picture Mode to transform the bitmap, then return to Design Mode to place stitches (the image is intentionally “protected” in Design Mode).
  • Click the Picture Mode tab and use Load Picture
  • Resize/rotate/skew using handles, or right-click the image to type exact dimensions
  • Switch back to Design Mode to stitch (expect the image to look dim/locked)
  • Success check: The bitmap moves only in Picture Mode, and stays fixed when placing stitches in Design Mode
  • If it still fails: Confirm Hatch Cross Stitch was launched from the Hatch Embroidery File menu and keep the main Hatch Embroidery window open in the background
• Q: Why does Hatch Cross Stitch show vertical “stripes” or gaps between rows after stitching, even though the Hatch Cross Stitch screen preview looks filled?
  A: Treat vertical “stripes” as fabric pull/shifting first, and upgrade stabilization before changing density settings.
  • Choose stabilizer by fabric: use No-Show Mesh Cut-away (poly mesh) + temporary spray for knits; use Cut-away (or medium tear-away for low stitch counts) for stable wovens
  • Hoop firmly so the fabric is “drum-tight” and does not creep during dense cross-stitch movement
  • Avoid “density band-aids” like increasing Thread Count until stabilization is proven
  • Success check: After stitchout, the grid stays aligned and the fabric does not show consistent vertical gap lines
  • If it still fails: Re-check hooping friction and fabric slip (performance wear often needs heavier cut-away and higher-friction hooping)
• Q: In Hatch Cross Stitch, how do Fabric Count (SPI 10/14/18) and Thread Count (2/4/6) cause a design to stitch like a stiff “brick” and make the embroidery machine sound like it is grinding?
  A: Reduce density by balancing Fabric Count (size) and Thread Count (passes) instead of maxing both.
  • If using high SPI (16–18), drop Thread Count to 2 to avoid bulk buildup
  • If using 6 threads, drop SPI to 10–12 so each X has physical room to lay flat
  • Watch the status bar stitch count as an early warning (very high stitches in a small design usually signals over-density)
  • Success check: The stitchout feels flexible (not cardboard) and the machine runs without heavy needle drag sounds
  • If it still fails: Slow the machine speed (SPM) and change to a sharper/larger-eye needle such as Topstitch 75/11 or 80/12 (verify against the machine manual)
• Q: What is the safest way to run first test stitchouts for dense Hatch Cross Stitch designs to avoid injury if a needle breaks?
  A: Keep hands and tools away from the needle area during high-speed X-Y motion, and stop the machine before reaching into the hoop zone.
  • Run the first test at a controlled pace and stay ready on the STOP control
  • Do not use tweezers, snips, or fingers near the needle path while the design is running
  • Investigate density/stabilization if the machine begins to struggle, rather than “helping” near the needle
  • Success check: No reaching into the hoop area while stitching; any adjustment happens only after the machine is fully stopped
  • If it still fails: Treat repeated needle stress as a density/stabilization issue and reduce Thread Count or adjust SPI before re-testing
• Q: Why does Hatch Cross Stitch resizing feel “wrong,” and why does changing Fabric Count (SPI) change the design size instead of changing the number of X’s?
  A: In Hatch Cross Stitch, Fabric Count (SPI) is the size dial: changing SPI changes the physical size of each X, not the stitch pattern count.
  • Set Fabric Count in Settings > Fabric Count (a safe starting point is 14 SPI)
  • Use 10 SPI when larger, chunkier X’s are needed; use 18 SPI when smaller, finer X’s are needed
  • Decide SPI early because cross-stitch designs do not scale gracefully later without changing the look/texture
  • Success check: Switching from 10 → 18 SPI visibly shrinks the design on-screen while the pattern layout remains the same
  • If it still fails: Re-check hoop boundary first—an oversized design often triggers “last-minute resizing” mistakes
• Q: How do I prevent “surprise resizing” by setting the correct hoop boundary early in Hatch Cross Stitch (example: 150×150 mm hoop)?
  A: Turn on the hoop display and select the exact hoop size you own before digitizing so the design stays within real physical limits.
  • Right-click the hoop tool (or use hoop options) and select the correct hoop (e.g., 150 × 150 mm)
  • Toggle Display Hoop ON and keep it visible while placing stitches
  • Commit to hoop strategy before finishing the design (cross stitch does not shrink nicely after the fact)
  • Success check: The entire design fits inside the displayed hoop boundary with margin, without needing late-stage scaling
  • If it still fails: Redesign to fit the hoop boundary rather than shrinking; changing SPI to “make it fit” will also change the cross-stitch texture
• Q: What is the fastest “production-minded” way to reduce hooping fatigue, hoop burn, and inconsistent placement when stitching dense cross-stitch designs (technique vs magnetic hoop vs equipment upgrade)?
  A: Use a step ladder: stabilize and hoop better first, then upgrade hooping tools if the problem is consistency and speed—not software settings.
  • Level 1 (Technique): Improve stabilization (cut-away where needed) and use temporary spray to reduce fabric shift
  • Level 2 (Tooling): Consider magnetic embroidery hoops when repeated dense stitchouts cause slippage, hoop burn, or slow screw-hoop setup (magnetic clamping often improves consistency)
  • Level 3 (Scale): If hooping time dominates production, standardize placement with a hooping station and scale output with a multi-needle workflow
  • Success check: Setup time drops and repeat placements land consistently with fewer pull-related gaps
  • If it still fails: Re-audit stitch count and density choices—tooling helps physics, but extreme density can still overpower any setup
• Q: What magnetic hoop safety precautions should operators follow when using commercial magnetic embroidery frames with strong neodymium magnets?
  A: Treat magnetic frames as pinch-hazard tools and keep them away from sensitive devices and medical implants.
  • Keep fingers clear when closing magnets; control the snap and set magnets down deliberately
  • Keep magnetic frames away from pacemakers/heart monitors and away from credit cards and smartphones
  • Store magnets so they cannot slam together unexpectedly
  • Success check: No finger pinches during mounting/unmounting, and no magnets snapping uncontrolled across the worktable
  • If it still fails: Switch to a slower, two-handed handling routine and review shop safety rules before continuing use