Hatch Embroidery 2 Auto-Digitizing That Actually Stitches Well: Instant Results, Smarter Sequencing, and Towel-Ready Auto Fabric

Digitizing often feels like walking a tightrope. On one side, you have the artwork you love; on the other, the physical reality of needle, thread, and fabric. One wrong step, and you end up with "bulletproof" patches, sunken stitches, or a machine that shreds your favorite t-shirt.

But here is the truth experienced embroiderers know: Digitizing is not magic; it is engineering. And Hatch Embroidery 2’s Auto-Digitizing features are not "cheating"—they are power tools. When used with a structural mindset, they get you 90% of the way there.

In this guide, we are rebuilding Linda Goodall’s demonstration into a production-grade workflow. We will move beyond simply clicking buttons and dive into the physics of why settings matter—covering thread mapping, the critical "Auto Fabric" rules for towels, and the hardware upgrades that stop beginners from quitting.

The "Don't Panic" Primer: Engineering vs. Guesswork

Auto-digitizing is a shortcut, but shortcuts only work if you know the destination. If you blindly click "Auto," Hatch will guess. Sometimes it guesses right; often, it creates a file that looks great on a screen but fails in the real world.

Your goal is to use auto-digitizing to build the structure, then apply your human judgment to manage the variable that software can’t feel: Texture.

The Software Reality

As clarified in the comments by Hatch, you need at least Hatch Embroidery Composer to convert images to stitches. If you are on the fence, know that this level allows you to build competent files without needing to manually plot every needle penetration.

Phase 1: The "Hidden" Prep (Do This Before You Click)

Amateurs start by importing image files. Pros start by checking their constraints.

1. Artwork Hygiene: Clean Pixels = Clean Stitches

Linda’s demo uses a vector-style PNG of a seashell. This is crucial. Auto-digitizing relies on edge detection.

• High Contrast: Good.
• Solid Colors: Good.
• Gradients/Fuzzy Edges: Bad. These force the software to create thousands of tiny "confetti" stitches that cause thread breaks.

If your artwork is messy, no amount of software tweaking will save it. You don't need a drawing tablet (a common misconception), but you do need clean inputs.

2. Legal Hygiene

A quick note on rights: Just because you can right-click and save an image doesn't mean you can stitch and sell it. Ensure you own the usage rights.

3. The Physical "Pre-Flight" Check

Before you digitize a single stitch, define your reality.

Pre-Flight Checklist
* Image Source: Is it a crisp PNG/JPG with solid color blocks?
* Background Strategy: Do you want the white square behind the logo? (99% of the time: No).
* Thread Inventory: Do you actually own the colors on screen?
The "Texture" Factor: Are you stitching on a flat fat quarter or a fluffy towel? (This changes everything*).
* Consumables Check: Do you have the right stabilizer? (e.g., Water Soluble Topping for towels).

Phase 2: The Setup

Open the Auto-Digitize toolbox in Hatch Embroidery 2.

1. Click Insert Artwork.
2. Select your prepared PNG.

Sensory Check: Zoom in on your artwork. If the edges look like a blurry staircase, the software will struggle. If they are sharp, you are green-lit.

Phase 3: The Fork in the Road (Instant vs. Controlled)

Option A: The "Instant" Gambit (Risky)

Linda demonstrates Auto-Digitize Instant Embroidery.

1. Select Artwork.
2. Click the button.
3. Result: Hatch makes every decision for you.

Why avoid this? Unless your background is transparent, Hatch often stitches a giant white square behind your design. This turns a flexible embroidery design into a stiff "patch."

Option B: The "Controlled" Professional Method (Recommended)

This is the workflow that gives you sellable results.

1. Undo the instant attempt (Ctrl+Z).
2. Select Auto-Digitize Embroidery.
3. The Critical Step: In the color assignment screen, locate the background color (usually white).
4. Click Omit.

The Sequencing Rule: In the same dialog, look at the stitch order. Linda moves the black outline to the very bottom of the list.

• The Physics: Embroidery distorts fabric. If you stitch the outline first, by the time the fill stitches generate, the fabric has shifted (pushed/pulled). The outline won't match.
• The Fix: Stitch the outline last. It covers up the rough edges of your fill stitches and creates a crisp border.

Phase 4: Thread Mapping (The "Inventory Reality")

Your screen can display 16 million colors; your thread rack probably has 40.

Linda maps her design to the Hemmingworth chart.

1. Click Select Thread Charts.
2. Remove defaults (like Madeira Classic) if you don't use them.
3. Add your actual brand.

Why this matters: It prevents the "Thread Chicken" panic. You know exactly which spool to grab before you start.

Phase 5: The Physics of "Auto Fabric" (Crucial for Towels)

This is the single most important technical concept in this guide.

Look at the Status Bar (bottom blue line). It likely says Fabric: Pure Cotton. If you stitch a "Pure Cotton" file onto a fluffy towel, the stitches will sink into the loops. The design will look like it is drowning.

The Fix: Tell the Software the Truth

1. Go to the Customize Design toolbox.
2. Select Auto Fabric.
3. Change from Pure Cotton to Terry Towelling.

What actually happens? (The Data):

• Underlay: Hatch adds a heavy "grid" or zigzag underlay used to trample down the towel loops, creating a flat foundation.
• Compensation: It adds Pull Compensation (often increasing from 0.17mm to ~0.3mm or more) to account for the fabric restricting the thread.
• Stitch Count: You will see this jump. This is good. It means protection is being added.

The Hardware Bottleneck: Hooping Towels

Digitizing for towels is easy with Hatch. Hooping towels is where people rage-quit. Towels are thick. Forcing them into a standard plastic hoop requires immense hand strength and often leaves "hoop burn" (crushed fibers) that never washes out.

• The Friction Point: If you are fighting to close your hoop screw, or if the inner ring pops out mid-stitch, your tool is the problem, not your skill.
• The Production Solution: This is why professionals switch to magnetic embroidery hoops. They clamp thick items like towels automatically without "unscrewing" or forcing, instantly removing the variables of fabric crush and hand strain.

Warning: Magnetic Safety
Magnetic hoops are powerful industrial tools.
* Pinch Hazard: Keep fingers away from the clamping zone. Snap-down is instant.
* Medical Safety: Keep magnets away from pacemakers and implanted devices.

Phase 6: The "Digital Twin" Simulation

Never send a file to the machine without watching it run virtually.

1. Zoom out (Press 0).
2. Run the Stitch Player.

What to look for:

• The Logic Flow: Does it stitch all red areas, then all blue areas? Or is it jumping back and forth? (Excessive jumps = excessive trims).
• Effectiveness: Does the outline cover the edges?

Note on Trims: A commenter noted getting "56 trims." This is a sequencing failure. Use the Stitch Player to identify where color blocks are fragmented, then group them in the Resequence docker.

Phase 7: Texture Refinement

You can change the "feel" of the design by changing stitch types.

• Satin: Shiny, smooth, sits high. Good for text and outlines. (Limit: Stitches over 7mm-8mm become loose "snags").
• Tatami (Fill): Flat, matte, durable. Good for large areas.

Linda demonstrates changing a fill to Tatami in Object Properties. This is a tasteful edit that adds visual depth.

Decision Tree: The Fabric Strategy

Use this logic flow to ensure your digital file matches your physical setup.

• Hidden Consumable: For towels, you must use a Water Soluble Topping (Solvy). Even with the best Auto-Fabric settings, the topping prevents the needle from snagging loops.

Troubleshooting: When It Goes Wrong

Even with perfect digitizing, machines can be fickle.

**Symptom 1: Gaps between outline and fill.**

• The Cause: "Push/Pull Compensation." Stitches pull fabric in.
• The Fix: In Hatch, increase Pull Compensation (try 0.3mm - 0.4mm).
• The Hardware Check: Is your hoop tight? Tap the fabric; it should sound like a drum (thump-thump). If it's loose, the fabric moves, and gaps appear.

**Symptom 2: "Hoop Burn" or marks on the fabric.**

• The Cause: You tightened the standard hoop screw too much to hold thick fabric.
• The Fix: Steam the fabric to remove marks.
• The Prevention: Use terms like how to use magnetic embroidery hoop to research clamping systems that hold by vertical force rather than friction, eliminating burn marks entirely.

**Symptom 3: Placement is crooked.**

• The Cause: Human error during the manual hooping process.
• The Fix: Create a template. For repeated orders (like 10 left-chest logos), consider a hooping station for embroidery. This ensures every shirt is hooped in the exact same spot, every time.

**Symptom 4: "My Brother SE600 preview looks weird."**

• The Check: As noted in the comments, small screens render lines poorly. Trust the Hatch Stitch Player simulation over the low-res screen on entry-level machines. Many users searching for a brother se600 hoop upgrade are actually hitting the limits of the included 4x4 hoop, not the machine itself.

Operation Checklist: The Final "Go/No-Go"

Before you press the green button:

1. Thread Path: Is the foot up? (Always thread with the presser foot UP).
2. Bobbin: Is the texture correct? (You should feel slight resistance, like flossing teeth).
3. Needle: Is it a sharp, new needle? (Ballpoint for knits, Sharp for wovens).
4. Clearance: Does the hoop arm move freely?
5. Safety: Are your hands clear?

Warning: Machine needles move at 600-1000 stitches per minute. Never place your hands inside the hoop area while the machine is active.

The Growth Path: Moving to Production

Auto-digitizing gets you the file. But efficiency comes from your workflow.

If you find yourself spending more time changing threads and hooping shirts than actually stitching, you have hit a "Productivity Ceiling."

• Level 1 Upgrade: Magnetic Hoops. Solves the "hoop burn" and thick fabric struggle immediately.
• Level 2 Upgrade: Hooping Stations. Solves the crooked placement and frustration.
• Level 3 Upgrade: Multi-Needle Machines. If you are tired of babysitting thread changes on a single-needle machine, looking into SEWTECH multi-needle solutions is the logical next step for profitability.

Master the software first—let Hatch handle the math. Then, master your environment. That is how you turn a hobby into a craft.

FAQ

• Q: In Hatch Embroidery 2 Auto-Digitize Embroidery, how do I remove the unwanted white background square so the design does not stitch like a stiff patch?
  A: Omit the background color during Auto-Digitize Embroidery color assignment so Hatch Embroidery 2 does not generate stitches for the white block.
  • Open Auto-Digitize Embroidery (not Instant) and go to the color assignment screen.
  • Click the background color (often white) and choose Omit.
  • Run Stitch Player to confirm there is no large rectangular fill being stitched first.
  • Success check: the stitch simulation shows only the intended objects (no big “white square” area) and the finished sample stays flexible.
  • If it still fails: undo, re-run Auto-Digitize Embroidery, and verify the artwork background is truly removed/transparent before importing.
• Q: In Hatch Embroidery 2 Auto-Digitize sequencing, why should the black outline stitch last, and how do I set the stitch order correctly?
  A: Move the outline object to stitch last so it covers edge distortion caused by earlier fill stitches.
  • In the Auto-Digitize dialog, locate the stitch order list and drag the black outline to the bottom.
  • Use Stitch Player to confirm fills stitch first and the outline finishes the design.
  • Success check: the outline visually “frames” the fill cleanly instead of looking offset after stitching.
  • If it still fails: increase Pull Compensation slightly in Hatch Embroidery 2 and re-test on the same fabric and stabilizer.
• Q: In Hatch Embroidery 2 Auto Fabric, what setting should be used for terry towels to prevent stitches from sinking into towel loops?
  A: Change Hatch Embroidery 2 Auto Fabric from “Pure Cotton” to Terry Towelling so the file is built for towel texture.
  • Go to Customize Design and select Auto Fabric.
  • Switch the fabric preset to Terry Towelling and accept the changes (expect stitch count to increase).
  • Add a water-soluble topping (Solvy) on top of the towel before stitching.
  • Success check: the stitched design sits on top of the towel pile and remains readable, not “drowning” in loops.
  • If it still fails: confirm the Status Bar shows Terry Towelling, then re-check hooping tightness and stabilizer coverage.
• Q: When hooping thick terry towels, how do I prevent hoop burn and inner ring pop-out with a standard plastic embroidery hoop?
  A: Reduce crushing force and stabilize the hold—hoop burn usually comes from over-tightening the screw to control thick fabric.
  • Hooping action: tighten only enough to hold securely; avoid forcing the inner ring so hard that fibers crush.
  • Post-fix: apply steam to help remove hoop marks after stitching.
  • Upgrade option: consider a magnetic embroidery hoop to clamp thick items without aggressive screw pressure.
  • Success check: the fabric surface shows minimal ring marks after unhooping and the hoop does not loosen mid-stitch.
  • If it still fails: switch hooping method (sticky/support technique) or move to a clamping-style system because the limitation is often the hoop tool, not the digitizing.
• Q: In Hatch Embroidery 2, how do I reduce excessive trims (for example “56 trims”) caused by poor sequencing in Stitch Player?
  A: Use Hatch Embroidery 2 Stitch Player to find fragmented color blocks, then group and reorder them in Resequence to reduce unnecessary jumps and trims.
  • Play the design in Stitch Player and note where the machine keeps jumping between areas/colors.
  • Open the Resequence docker and regroup objects so same-color areas run together logically.
  • Re-run Stitch Player before exporting to confirm trims and jumps are reduced.
  • Success check: the simulation stitches larger continuous sections per color with fewer stop-trim-start cycles.
  • If it still fails: re-check that auto-digitizing did not create “confetti” objects from blurry/gradient artwork edges.
• Q: What are the correct threading and bobbin checks before starting an embroidery run to prevent shredding and avoidable stitch issues?
  A: Do a quick operational pre-flight: thread with presser foot up, confirm bobbin feel, and start with a new needle matched to fabric.
  • Threading action: thread the machine with the presser foot UP to seat thread correctly in tension.
  • Bobbin action: test bobbin resistance—it should feel like flossing teeth (slight, consistent drag).
  • Needle action: install a new sharp needle (ballpoint for knits, sharp for wovens).
  • Success check: the thread feeds smoothly with consistent tension feel and the machine starts without immediate looping or snapping.
  • If it still fails: stop and re-thread completely, then verify the hoop clearance so the hoop arm moves freely.
• Q: What needle safety rule should be followed during embroidery machine operation to prevent hand injuries at 600–1000 stitches per minute?
  A: Keep hands completely out of the hoop area whenever the machine is running, because the needle cycles too fast to react safely.
  • Before starting: confirm hoop arm clearance and remove tools/fingers from the stitching field.
  • During stitching: never reach inside the hoop to “help” fabric or trim threads while the machine is active.
  • Pause first: stop the machine before adjusting thread, fabric, or hoop position.
  • Success check: all adjustments happen only when the machine is fully stopped and the needle area is clear.
  • If it still fails: review the machine manual safety section and slow down the workflow—rushing causes most injuries.
• Q: What is the safe upgrade path when towel hooping frustration and thread changes become a productivity ceiling in embroidery production?
  A: Use a tiered fix: optimize technique first, then upgrade tools (magnetic hoops/hooping stations), then upgrade capacity (multi-needle) if thread changes and hooping time dominate.
  • Level 1: refine setup—use correct Auto Fabric (Terry Towelling), correct stabilizer + Solvy topping, and verify tight “drum” hooping.
  • Level 2: upgrade the tool—use magnetic hoops for thick items to reduce hoop burn and struggle; add a hooping station to prevent crooked placement on repeat orders.
  • Level 3: upgrade capacity—move to a multi-needle machine when thread-changing babysitting becomes the main bottleneck.
  • Success check: measured time shifts from “hooping and redoing” to “stable stitch runs” with fewer restarts and less operator fatigue.
  • If it still fails: identify which step consumes the most time (hooping, trims, thread changes) and upgrade that constraint first rather than changing everything at once.