Melco DesignShop Pro+ Lettering Connection Type: Stop Tiny Text Dimples Without Ruining Big-Letter Layering

Small lettering is the ultimate litmus test for any embroiderer. It is where the "theory" of digitizing collides violently with the "physics" of thread and fabric.

If you have ever stitched a name on a polo shirt only to end up with a blurry mess, "bird nesting" underneath, or ugly little "pimples" (thread tails) poking out at the ends of letters, you are not alone. This is not just a font problem. It is usually a misunderstanding of how your machine and software negotiate the space between the letters.

In my 20 years on the shop floor, I’ve learned that achieving crisp, legible text under 1/3 inch (8mm) isn't luck. It's a combination of physical stabilization and software logic.

This guide rebuilds the workflow for Connection Types in Melco DesignShop Pro+, but with a critical layer of "shop-floor experience" added. We will cover the specific settings to use, the sensory checks to perform, and the tools that prevent your hard work from shifting in the hoop.

The "Don't Panic" Primer: The Physics of Connection Types

Before clicking buttons, visualize what your machine is actually doing. Connection Type tells the machine how to travel from the end of Letter A to the start of Letter B.

Here is the sensory reality of the two main options:

• Trim (Scissors): The machine stops, cuts the thread, moves, and ties in again.
  • The Sound: A rhythmic "Chunk-Chunk-Whirrr."
  • The Risk: On tiny letters, the knots (tie-ins) are larger than the letter strokes. This causes "bulges" or "dimples."
• Run (Connector): The machine drags the thread to the next letter without stopping.
  • The Sound: A continuous, smooth "Hummmmmm."
  • The Risk: Visible thread lines connecting the letters (like a spiderweb).

The Whitepaper Rule: The smaller the text, the less room you have for knots and trims. Therefore, for text under 0.30" (7-8mm), we often choose Run (Connectors) over Trim, provided we can hide the thread.

Prep Phase: The "Hidden" Variables Before Software

You cannot software-fix a physics problem. If your fabric creates a "trampoline" effect in the hoop, small columns will distort.

1. Fabric & Stabilizer Pairing

For small text, stability is everything.

• Knits/Polos: ALWAYS use Cutaway stabilizer. Tearaway leaves fuzzy edges that ruin definition.
• Wovens/Caps: Tearaway is acceptable, but verify stiffness.
• Hidden Consumable: Use a light mist of Temporary Spray Adhesive (like 505) to bond the fabric to the stabilizer. This prevents the "shifting" that makes letters look drunk.

2. The Hooping Factor

This is where 80% of beginners fail. Traditional screw-hoops force you to pull fabric to remove wrinkles, causing "hoop burn" (permanent rings) or distortion.

• The Sensory Check: Tap the hooped fabric. It should sound like a dull drum (thump-thump), not a high-pitched snare (ping-ping). Over-tightening distorts the weave; under-tightening causes registration errors.
• The Tool Upgrade: If you struggle with this balance, this is the trigger to investigate Magnetic Hoops. Because they clamp straight down without friction, they hold specific tension without the "bungee cord" effect. For Melco users, finding compatible melco embroidery hoops that use magnetic clamping can instantly improve text clarity on slippery performance wear.

Prep Checklist (Physical):

• Needle Check: Are you using a 65/9 or 75/11 needle? (Standard 90/14 needles are too fat for small text).
• Bobbin Check: Is the tension correct? (Drop test: hold the bobbin case by the thread; it should hold just barely or drop 1 inch when shaken).
• Stabilizer: Is Cutaway selected for stretchy garments?
• Hooping: Is the fabric neutral (not stretched, not loose)?
  

The Small-Text Rescue Move: "Closest Point" Logic

Now, let's look at the software. When your lettering is Standard Small (approx. 0.30" to 0.40" or 8-10mm), the default "As Digitized" setting often creates long travel stitches.

The Fix: Switch Connection Type to Closest Point.

Why it works:

1. It calculates the shortest distance between the exit of Letter A and the entry of Letter B.
2. It buries this short travel stitch inside the natural serifs or under the upcoming letter.
3. It eliminates the need for a trim, keeping the machine running smooth and fast.

This is the setting that separates "amateur" files from "pro" files. Amateur files have jump stitches all over or massive knots at the ends of tiny "i"s. Pro files look clean because the connections are hidden in plain sight.

The "Actual Size" Reality Check

Never judge small text while zoomed in at 600%. On your screen, a 1mm connector looks like a steel cable. In reality, it is thinner than a hair.

Action:

1. Apply "Closest Point."
2. Press 1 (or your software equivalent) to view at 1:1 Actual Size.
3. Visual Check: Lean back 2 feet from your monitor. Can you see the connectors? If not, the thread will likely sink into the fabric pile and be invisible.
   

Micro-Adjustments: Pull Offset & Kerning

Changing the connection type is Step 1. Step 2 is ensuring the letters physically survive the sewing process. Thread pulls inward; it wants to make columns skinnier.

1. Pull Offset (Boldness)

For text under 0.25", the needle penetrations can shred the fabric if the column is too thin.

• The Sweet Spot: Add 1-2 points (or 0.010" / 0.25mm) of Pull Offset.
• The Result: This makes the letter slightly "bolder" on screen, which counteracts the thread shrinking during sewing.
  

2. Kerning (Spacing)

"Kerning" is the space between letters. To hide connectors effectively using "Closest Point," the letters need to be cozy, but not touching.

• The Adjustment: Reduce spacing by 5% to 10%.
• The Trap: If you go too tight, the letters merge into a blob.
• Success Metric: You want a visible "valley" between letters, but short enough that the travel stitch is buried.
  

Warning (Safety): When testing small text, keep your hands away from the needle bar! Beginners often lean in close to see the detail. A 1000 SPM needle moves faster than your reflex. Always use a barrier or keep hands on the table edge.

The "Bottom Connect" Trap (The Letter "TOY" Problem)

Intermediate digitizers often discover "Bottom Connect" and think it is the Holy Grail. It forces all connections to run along the bottom baseline.

The Failure Mode: Look at the letters T, V, Y, A. They have significant negative space at the bottom corners.

• If you use Bottom Connect on the word "TOY," the software forces a thread from the center stem of the "T" across the empty space to the "O."
• Result: A massive, ugly jump stitch that you cannot hide.

The Solution: Use Closest Point for these geometric letters. It will find the mid-point or top-point connection that is shorter and less visible.

The "Large Text" Architecture: When to Revert Settings

Do not leave "Closest Point" on permanently.

When text gets large (1.00" / 25mm+), the priority shifts from "hiding connectors" to "structural integrity."

• The Scenario: A large Serif font (like Times New Roman).
• The "Closest Point" Error: The software might try to connect the top of an "E" to the bottom of an "X" by sewing the "E" in reverse order. This ruins the beautiful mitered corners and layering that the digitizer designed.

The Rule: For large text, use "As Digitized." We want the machine to jump and trim if necessary, because the quality of the letter shape is more important than saving a trim command.

Operational Decision Tree: The "Logic Gate"

Print this and tape it to your monitor.

START: Assessment

1. Is the text SMALL (< 0.40" / 10mm)?
   • YES: Go to Step 2.
   • NO: Use As Digitized. Ensure Trims are ON.
2. Step 2: Connection Strategy
   • Switch to Closest Point.
   • Action: Check "T, Y, V, A, L" combinations.
   • Check: Do you see exposed lines?
     • No: Good to sew.
     • Yes: Tighten Kerning (Spacing) by 5%.
3. Step 3: Physical Verification
   • Fabric Type: Knit/Polo? -> Use Cutaway.
   • Needle: 75/11 or smaller.
   • Hoop: Can you drum on the fabric?

Troubleshooting: The "Why is this happening?" Guide

The Shop-Floor Reality: When Software Can't Fix It

Sometimes, your software settings are perfect (Closest Point, Pull Comp, nice density), but the sew-out still looks terrible.

This is usually a hardware limitation. Small text requires the fabric to be held in a "vice grip" without being stretched. Traditional friction hoops often fail here—they leave "hoop burn" marks on sensitive fabrics (like performance polos) or they slip slightly during the thousands of needle penetrations required for text.

• Level 1 Solution: Use better stabilizers and spray adhesive.
• Level 2 Solution (Tooling): If you are doing production runs of 50+ shirts, fighting hoop screws and registration issues is costing you money. Shift to a hooping station for machine embroidery to ensure every logo is placed identically. Pair this with a magnetic clamping system.
• The Pro Insight: Advanced users of Melco machines often move away from standard plastic hoops for difficult garments. They search for melco fast clamp pro alternatives or magnetic frames. Why? Because reducing the "flagging" (bouncing) of fabric instantly sharpens small text.

Warning (Magnet Safety): Industrial magnetic hoops are incredibly powerful. They can pinch fingers severely (blood blister risk) and disrupt pacemakers. Always slide magnets apart—never pry—and keep them away from sensitive electronics and children.

The Scaling Path: From Hobby to Profit

As your skills improve, your bottleneck moves from "quality" to "speed."

1. Hobbyist: Stick to the Connection Type rules above. Focus on learning specific hooping tensions.
2. Side Hustle: You need consistency. If you struggle with tricky placements (like caps), stop fighting a flat hoop. Investigate a dedicated melco hat hoop or a specialized cap driver system. Cap embroidery is notoriously unforgiving on small text because the center seam pushes needles astray.
3. Production Shop: Time is currency. If you are swapping hoops 4 times an hour, screw-hoops are slowing you down. Look into embroidery hoops for melco that offer magnetic quick-change capabilities.

Final Operation Checklist

• File: Text < 0.3" set to "Closest Point"?
• File: Pull Offset added (+0.010")?
• Physical: Fresh 75/11 needle installed?
• Physical: Bobbin checks out (1/3 white center visible on test sew)?
• Physical: Fabric is "drum tight" but not stretched?
• Safety: Hands clear?

Mastering small lettering is less about "art" and more about "engineering." By respecting the physics of thread connection and securing your fabric foundation, you can turn the most frustrating part of embroidery into your competitive advantage.

FAQ

• Q: In Melco DesignShop Pro+, what Connection Type should be used for small lettering under 0.30" (7–8mm) to avoid knots and “pimples”?
  A: Use Run connectors with Closest Point logic and avoid frequent trims for tiny text—this is common and usually fixes the “pimple” knots.
  • Switch Connection Type to Closest Point for small text runs.
  • Turn OFF trims when tiny letters are getting bulky tie-ins.
  • View the design at 1:1 Actual Size before deciding a connector is “too visible.”
  • Success check: Letter ends feel smoother to the touch and the stitchout shows fewer raised “dimples.”
  • If it still fails… Re-check hooping stability and bobbin/needle setup before changing fonts.
• Q: How can Melco DesignShop Pro+ users judge connector visibility correctly when “Closest Point” looks messy at high zoom?
  A: Judge connectors at 1:1 Actual Size, not at extreme zoom—zoom makes tiny travel stitches look worse than they sew.
  • Apply Closest Point to the lettering object.
  • Switch the view to Actual Size (1:1) using the software’s actual-size view (often the 1 key).
  • Lean back about 2 feet and evaluate visibility like real-world reading distance.
  • Success check: At 1:1, connector lines are hard to see on-screen and typically sink into fabric pile during sewing.
  • If it still fails… Adjust kerning slightly tighter (5–10%) so the connector can be buried.
• Q: What is the correct stabilizer choice for small text on polo shirts or knit garments to prevent blurry, unreadable lettering?
  A: For knits/polos, use cutaway stabilizer and reduce fabric shifting—tearing stabilizer often leaves fuzz and hurts definition.
  • Choose Cutaway stabilizer for stretchy polo/knit fabrics.
  • Lightly apply temporary spray adhesive (e.g., 505) to bond fabric to stabilizer and reduce shifting.
  • Hoop the garment neutral (not stretched, not loose) before sewing.
  • Success check: Letters stay crisp instead of “drunk”/wavy, and columns don’t spread or blur during stitching.
  • If it still fails… Move to a clamping-style hooping method (often magnetic) to reduce flagging and slip.
• Q: How tight should fabric be hooped for small lettering, and what is the “drum test” success standard?
  A: Hoop fabric drum tight but not stretched; use the tap-sound check to avoid both distortion and registration slip.
  • Tap the hooped fabric and listen for a dull drum “thump-thump” rather than a sharp “ping-ping.”
  • Reduce over-tightening that causes weave distortion and hoop burn rings.
  • Avoid under-tight hooping that allows shifting during dense small lettering.
  • Success check: The fabric feels stable, sounds like a dull drum, and the stitchout holds alignment without wobble.
  • If it still fails… Consider switching from screw-hoops to a magnetic clamping hoop to hold tension without friction pulling.
• Q: What needle size and bobbin tension checks help prevent bird nesting when stitching small lettering on an embroidery machine?
  A: Use a 65/9 or 75/11 needle and confirm bobbin tension with the drop test—bird nesting is often setup-related, not a font issue.
  • Install a 65/9 or 75/11 needle (avoid bulky 90/14 for tiny text).
  • Perform the bobbin drop test: hold the bobbin case by the thread; it should barely hold or drop about 1 inch when shaken.
  • Rethread the machine if nesting starts suddenly.
  • Success check: The machine runs smoothly without grinding sounds and the underside shows controlled bobbin thread instead of a tangled mass.
  • If it still fails… Re-check hoop tightness with the drum test and stabilize the fabric more aggressively (cutaway + light spray).
• Q: Why does “Bottom Connect” create long exposed threads on words like “TOY,” and what should Melco DesignShop Pro+ users do instead?
  A: Avoid Bottom Connect for geometric letters like T, Y, V, A; switch to Closest Point so the software chooses a shorter, hideable path.
  • Identify letter pairs with bottom negative space (e.g., T–O, O–Y).
  • Change the Connection Type from Bottom Connect to Closest Point for that lettering sequence.
  • Tighten kerning slightly (about 5%) only if the connector still lands in open space.
  • Success check: No long “spiderweb” line appears across open areas between letters after sewing.
  • If it still fails… Revert that section to As Digitized and allow trims where the shape quality matters more.
• Q: What safety rules should beginners follow when test-stitching small lettering at 1000 SPM on an embroidery machine?
  A: Keep hands away from the needle area during tests—small lettering makes people lean in close, and the needle moves faster than reflexes.
  • Keep hands on the table edge or use a physical barrier instead of guiding near the needle bar.
  • Stop the machine before inspecting or trimming thread tails near the needle area.
  • Maintain a clear workspace so fabric or sleeves can’t snag and pull hands inward.
  • Success check: Inspection happens only when the machine is stopped, and hands never enter the needle bar zone while running.
  • If it still fails… Slow down the process operationally (pause/stop more often) until safe habits are automatic.
• Q: When should an embroiderer upgrade from stabilizer tweaks to magnetic hoops or a multi-needle machine for consistent small lettering on polos?
  A: Upgrade in levels: first optimize stabilizer + spray, then switch to magnetic clamping hoops for slip/hoop burn issues, and consider a multi-needle machine when production volume makes rehooping and inconsistency too costly.
  • Level 1 (Technique): Use cutaway + light spray adhesive, confirm needle 75/11 or smaller, and use Closest Point for small text.
  • Level 2 (Tooling): Move to magnetic hoops if screw-hoops cause hoop burn, inconsistent tension, or fabric flagging on performance polos.
  • Level 3 (Capacity): Consider a multi-needle system when frequent hoop changes and repeated fixes are limiting throughput.
  • Success check: The same small text sews cleanly across multiple shirts with fewer rehoops and fewer registration-related failures.
  • If it still fails… Add placement control with a hooping station approach and reassess fabric movement (flagging) as the root cause.