Beat the “Color Blocks Must Be Cut” Pop-Up: Split Big SewWhat-Pro Designs for a Brother PE770 5x12 Repositionable Hoop (Without Ruining Satin Stitches)

When you’re staring at a beautiful tall design and your Brother PE770—or any similar single-needle machine—is basically saying “Nope,” the frustration is visceral. You feel that tightness in your chest because you know the design physically fits the plastic frame, but the machine software acts like a stubborn gatekeeper.

As an embroidery educator who has walked thousands of students through this exact "panic phase," I can tell you: this isn't a dead end. It’s a rite of passage.

This post rebuilds the exact workflow from the video: taking a 3.16 x 9.42 inch design and splitting it for a 5 x 12 repositionable hoop using SewWhat-Pro. We will use manual cuts to clear the dreaded “color blocks must be cut” warning. But beyond the software clicks, I’m going to include the "studio secrets"—the tactile, physical adjustments that keep your split design from looking like a Frankenstein experiment when you stitch it out.

The Calm-Down Moment: What a Brother PE770 5x12 Positional Hoop Can (and Can’t) Do

First, let's recalibrate your expectations to avoid heartbreak later. A repositionable hoop is a powerful tool, but it is not magic. It does not expand your machine’s physical arm or stitch field into one continuous 5x12 area.

Think of a repositionable hoop not as a panoramic window, but as three separate, overlapping snapshots. You are essentially tricking the machine into stitching a large design by feeding it three smaller bites:

1. Top (Position 1)
2. Middle (Position 2)
3. Bottom (Position 3)

That’s why projects using a repositionable embroidery hoop succeed or fail on one non-negotiable detail: every continuous object (color block) must live entirely inside a single position zone.

If a dense satin heart, a scrolling vine, or a border line crosses a boundary line—even by a single millimeter—SewWhat-Pro will refuse to generate the files. Why? Because you cannot physically pause a satin stitch, move the hoop, and resume it seamlessly without a visible scar. You must cut that object into separate pieces where the eye won't notice the break.

The “Hidden” Prep Pros Do Before Touching SewWhat-Pro (So You Don’t Split Twice)

Amateurs rush to the "Cut" tool. Professionals start with a physical and mental audit. Before you make a single digital cut, we need to reduce the chance of two classic embroidery disasters:

1. Slicing through dense foundation stitches (creating a "bullet hole" look in your fabric).
2. Cutting in a sector that is stabilizing-nightmare (where alignment is physically impossible).

Here’s the mindset I teach: you’re not “chopping a design.” You’re acting like a surgeon, choosing where the design can tolerate a scar. Open spaces, gaps between elements, and areas of low density are your friends.

Prep Checklist (Physical & Mental):

• Dimensional Check: Confirm the design size (video example: 3.16 x 9.42 inches). Does this leave room for the presser foot?
• The "Seam" Strategy: Visualize where you want the split to happen. Ideally, this is in open background space (fabric only), never through a satin column or lettering.
• Consumables Audit:
  • Fresh Needle: A dull needle causes drag, which ruins alignment on split designs. Use a fresh 75/11.
  • Stabilizer Match: For a split design, stability is king. If using knit, create a "sandwich" with cutaway.
  • Temporary Spray/Tape: You will need extra hold to prevent shifting during the long stitch time.
• The Master File Rule: Always Save As immediately (e.g., Design_Working_Copy.pes). Keep your original unsplit file sacred. If you mess up the cutting, you need a clean slate to return to.
  

Set the Hoop Correctly in SewWhat-Pro: Brother 5x12 “Jumbo Overlap” and the P1/P2/P3 Zones

In the video, the user navigates to Options > Hoops and selects the Brother 5x12 (Jumbo Overlap) hoop. This specific profile is critical because it accounts for the unique attachment mechanism of the Brother mounting arm.

Once selected, SewWhat-Pro displays three colored overlays. Memorize these, as they are your "safe zones":

• Position 1 (P1) = Red (Usually the top)
• Position 2 (P2) = Green (The middle/overlap)
• Position 3 (P3) = Blue (The bottom)

These colors are not decoration—they are "legal stitching territory." You must toggle the position visibility so you can clearly see where your design crosses these invisible electric fences.

If you’re upgrading from a smaller setup like a standard brother 5x7 hoop, this requires a mental shift. You are no longer asking “Does the whole design fit?” You are asking “Does this specific heart fit entirely inside the Red zone, or entirely inside the Green zone?”

Trigger the Problem on Purpose: “The Following Color Blocks Must Be Cut” Is Your Roadmap

Don't fear the error message; invite it. Do exactly what the video does: try to Save As immediately, before you've done any work.

SewWhat-Pro will throw a warning pop-up listing specific color blocks (e.g., 1, 2, 3, 4, 5) that "Must be cut." This pop-up, which causes so much anxiety for beginners, is actually your best friend. It is a precise diagnostic checklist.

If you’ve ever looked at a screen and thought, “But it looks like it fits,” this message is the mathematical proof that at least one continuous block is spanning across the P1/P2/P3 lines. Take a screenshot or write down those numbers. That is your to-do list.

The Clean Cut Method: Using “Select Points” So You Don’t Slice Satin Columns

This is the technical heart of the tutorial, and where "feel" becomes important.

Open the Cutting Toolbar, then choose Select Points. While the software allows you to drag a crude square box to cut, that acts like a cleaver. We want a scalpel. Select Points allows you to draw a custom shape around an object to isolate it.

Here is the Golden Rule of Splitting:

Cut in the air, not the thread.

You want your cut line to travel through the empty fabric space between objects, not through the objects themselves. If you slice a satin column, the thread will unravel, and you will see a frayed gap forever.

In the video, the instructor zooms in heavily—this is key. You need to see the individual stitch penetrations. Click points to form a polygon "lasso" around the element you want to separate (e.g., the top heart).

Warning: Machine Safety & Stitch Quality
Never place a cut point directly on top of a "Running Stitch" or "Underlay" if you can avoid it. If the software forces a cut through thread, ensure the stitch type isn't a long satin. Cutting dense satin can create a "bird's nest" (tangle) underneath the throat plate, potentially jamming the machine or breaking the needle. Always Zoom In to 400% before clicking.

Expected outcome after the first cut

When you click Cut Pattern, you might not see a dramatic explosion. You should see a subtle visual separation in the object list. The design now has more color blocks than when you started. This is good—it means the bridge has been burned, and the object is now independent.

Second Cut, Same Discipline: Isolating the Bottom Heart Without Creating a Mess of Jumps

The video repeats the Select Points process for the bottom heart. The discipline here is patience. You click around the bottom element, navigating that narrow river of empty space between the heart and the scrollwork.

Crucially, you must close the loop. You must click back on your very first starting point to complete the shape.

After the cut, the instructor notes the color change count jumps (e.g., to 15 color changes). Do not panic. You have created new "layers" in the digital file.

About jump stitches after cutting

When you split a continuous block into two, SewWhat-Pro may automatically insert a "Jump Stitch" (a long thread connector) to get from point A to point B.

• The Rookie Cleanup: Many users leave them and trim them with scissors after stitching.
• The Pro Move: Use the Eraser Tool in the software to remove long jumps before stitching. This prevents the presser foot from catching on a long loop during the high-speed travel of the machine.

The Verification Ritual: Proving Every Block Lives Inside P1, P2, or P3

Now, perform the "Click-Through" ritual. Cycle through every single color block in the right-hand panel. As you highlight each one, look at the Red, Green, and Blue overlays.

• Block 1: Is it fully inside Red? Yes.
• Block 2: Is it fully inside Green? Yes.

This visual confirmation is where the "Almost Got It" crowd fails. If one tiny single-running stitch tail crosses a boundary line, the error persists. In the video example, we confirm the heart segment is safely in P2 (green) and the other is in P1 (red).

Save Once, Save Smart: Generating _P1, _P2, _P3 Files (and Protecting Your Master)

When the logic holds up, File > Save As will finally work. You will feel a rush of relief.

SewWhat-Pro will display a success message indicating it is splitting the file. It will generate distinct files labeled with suffixes: _P1, _P2, and _P3.

Crucial Workflow Note: Treat these P-files as "Read-Only" print files. Never try to edit the P1 file directly. If you need to change the size or density, go back to your Master Unsplit File, make the change, and re-split.

You can now verify the files in your Windows Explorer. You are ready to move to the machine.

The Alignment Reality Nobody Likes: Why P2 Often Looks “Slightly Off” After P1

Even if your software split is mathematically perfect to the micron, physics will introduce chaos. This is what we call the "Reality Gap."

Embroidery stitches create Pull. As the needle penetrates thousands of times, it pulls the fabric inward (like tightening a corset). By the time you finish the top section (P1), your fabric has physically shrunk slightly in the hoop. When you move the hoop to stitch P2, the fabric is not in the exact same state of tension it was 20 minutes ago.

This is the practical physics behind hooping for embroidery machine mastery:

• The hoop holds the perimeter.
• The stitches distort the center.
• Repositioning requires fighting this distortion.

So, alignment isn't just about lining up a cursor; it’s about managing fabric tension.

The Basting Box Trick (Use It Carefully on Designs with Boundary-Crossing Elements)

The instructor shows adding a basting stitch (a long running stitch rectangle) around the pattern. This serves two purposes:

1. It physically staples the stabilizer to the fabric (preventing shifting).
2. It gives you a visual "box" to check alignment against.

However, the instructor wisely cautions: in a design like this, where hearts sit near the edge, a basting box might run through the design if you aren't careful.

My Pro Tip: If you can't use a basting box, use temporary spray adhesive (e.g., Odif 505) between your stabilizer and fabric. It acts like thousands of tiny hands holding the fabric still while the hoop moves.

Marking Centers Like a Pro: The Low-Tech Habit That Saves High-Stress Rehoops

The video’s most valuable "real world" advice is analog: mark your centers.

Use a water-soluble pen or chalk to mark a crosshair on your fabric that corresponds to the center of P1, P2, and P3. When you slide the hoop mechanism to the next set of pegs/slots, you shouldn't just trust the machine's "beep." Key visual checks:

• Does the needle drop exactly on your marked line?
• Is the fabric square, or has it twisted?

Comment-based watch-out (common confusion)

Beginners often panic because the specific "Position Tabs" in the software don't look like their screen. The instructor clarifies: Zoom Out. If you are zoomed in too close, the P1/P2/P3 labels on the hoop perimeter often disappear.

Decision Tree: When to Split in Software vs. When to Upgrade Your Hooping Workflow

Struggling with alignment is part of the learning curve, but at a certain point, the struggle costs more than the equipment upgrade. Use this logic path to decide.

Start here: What is your primary pain point?

1. "My design is just physically larger than my 5x7 field."
   • Path A (Hobbyist): Continue using SewWhat-Pro to split files. Choose designs with "open air" gaps (floral vines, text) rather than solid blocks to hide seams.
   • Path B (Business): If you are turning down orders because of size, you are losing money. This is the trigger to look at a machine with a native 8x12 or larger field.
2. "The fabric slips/puckers when I move the hoop to the next position."
   • Path A (Technique): Switch to "Cutaway" stabilizer (not tearaway) and use more spray adhesive.
   • Path B (Tool Upgrade): This "slippage" is often caused by the "Hoop Burn" mechanism of standard plastic hoops. Many users switch to a magnetic embroidery hoop system. The magnets clamp the fabric straight down without the "tug-and-screw" distortion, making multi-position stitching significantly more accurate.
3. "I spend 40 minutes hooping and 10 minutes stitching. My wrists hurt."
   • Path A (Physical): Take breaks. Use a silicone mat to grip the hoop screw.
   • Path B (Production): This is the classic "Single-Needle Bottleneck." If you are doing volume (50+ shirts), the manual splitting and re-hooping workflow is unsustainable. A multi-needle machine (like the SEWTECH models) allows you to hoop once and stitch oversized designs without the splitting headache, drastically increasing your profit-per-hour.

The Upgrade Path (No Hard Sell): Tools That Remove the Most Pain Per Dollar

Once you’ve successfully split and stitched a few designs, you will realize that software isn't the bottleneck—physics is. Here is how professional shops eliminate the friction points discussed in this tutorial.

1. If Repositioning is your nightmare

A dedicated hooping station for machine embroidery keeps your garment square and flat while you adjust the frame. It acts as a "third hand," ensuring that when you slide from Position 1 to Position 2, your grainline remains perfectly straight.

2. If "Hoop Burn" (those shiny rings) is ruining garments

Standard hoops require you to jam fabric between two plastic rings. This friction creates the dragging that messes up split designs. Professionals often opt for magnetic embroidery hoops for brother pe770 (ensure compatibility with your specific mount).

• Why it helps here: You can lift the magnet, smooth the fabric to relieve the tension caused by P1 stitching, and snap it back down for P2 without un-hooping the entire garment.

Warning: Magnetic Safety
Professional magnetic hoops use industrial-strength neodymium magnets. They can pinch fingers severely. Keep them away from pacemakers, insulin pumps, and credit cards. Never leave them near children.

3. If you are scaling to production

When you are splitting designs daily, you are paying for the machine's limitations with your own labor time. Moving to a multi-needle platform (like SEWTECH) isn't just about "more needles"—it's about larger, continuous stitching fields that delete the need for this entire splitting tutorial.

Setup Checklist (Pre-Flight)

• Hoop Selection: SewWhat-Pro set to Brother 5x12 (Jumbo Overlap).
• Zone Visibility: P1/P2/P3 overlays are toggled ON.
• Diagnostic: "Color blocks must be cut" warning reviewed and noted.
• Surgical Cut: Used Select Points (not box select) with 400%+ zoom.
• Stitch Hygiene: No cuts performed through satin columns or lettering.
• Verification: Cycled through every single color block confirm it is 100% inside a Red, Green, or Blue zone.
• File Safety: Master file saved separately from generated _P1 files.

Operation Checklist (At the Machine)

• Load Order: Load _P1 first, then _P2, then _P3. Do not mix them up.
• Center Check: Before hitting "Start" on P2/P3, drop the needle by hand wheel to ensure it hits your marked center crosshair.
• Pull Mgmt: Expect P1 to pull the fabric. Check for puckering before starting P2.
• Sensory Check: Listen for the "thump-thump" of the needle. If it sounds like a sharp "crack" or "slap," the fabric is too loose in the frame—stop and tighten immediately.

Quick Troubleshooting: Symptoms → Likely Cause → Fix

The Takeaway: Split With Intention, Then Align Like You Mean It

The method in the video works because it respects two realities: the software logic (objects must be contained) and the stitching physics (fabric moves).

Once you master the Select Points tool, you gain a superpower: you can stitch designs that look impossible on your machine. But remember, if you find yourself doing this purely for production orders, listen to the friction. That struggle is your business growing faster than your tools. Whether you solve it with a magnetic hoop or a bigger machine, your time is the most expensive thread in the room. Treat it that way.

FAQ

• Q: Why does SewWhat-Pro show “The following color blocks must be cut” when saving a Brother PE770 design to the Brother 5x12 (Jumbo Overlap) repositionable hoop?
  A: The warning means at least one continuous color block crosses a P1/P2/P3 boundary and must be separated before SewWhat-Pro can generate _P1/_P2/_P3 files.
  • Trigger the list on purpose: Click File > Save As early and write down the block numbers SewWhat-Pro names.
  • Toggle zones ON: Keep the Red/Green/Blue overlays visible and locate where each listed block crosses a boundary line.
  • Cut only the crossing objects: Use Cutting Toolbar > Select Points to isolate the part that must stay in one zone.
  • Success check: After cutting, each highlighted block sits 100% inside one color zone and Save As completes without the warning.
  • If it still fails: Zoom in and look for a tiny tail/running-stitch end that barely crosses the line, then re-cut or trim that segment.
• Q: How do I split a tall 3.16 x 9.42 inch design for a Brother PE770 using SewWhat-Pro and a Brother 5x12 (Jumbo Overlap) repositionable hoop without slicing satin columns?
  A: Use SewWhat-Pro “Select Points” like a scalpel and place cut paths through empty fabric space, not through satin or lettering.
  • Set the correct hoop profile: Go to Options > Hoops and choose Brother 5x12 (Jumbo Overlap).
  • Zoom before cutting: Work at 400%+ so individual penetrations are visible.
  • Draw the cut in open air: Click points around the element (e.g., top heart), close the loop back to the first point, then Cut Pattern.
  • Success check: The object/color block list increases and the separated element can be highlighted fully inside a single P-zone.
  • If it still fails: Undo and redraw the polygon farther away from dense underlay/running stitches, then re-verify block-by-block.
• Q: What prep steps prevent alignment problems when stitching Brother PE770 _P1/_P2/_P3 split files from SewWhat-Pro on a repositionable 5x12 hoop?
  A: Stabilize and control fabric movement before the first stitch, because pull distortion builds after P1.
  • Replace consumables: Install a fresh 75/11 needle and start from a clean working copy using Save As to protect the master file.
  • Strengthen stability: Use a stabilizer choice that prioritizes control (cutaway is commonly used for challenging repositioning) and add temporary hold (spray/tape as needed).
  • Mark reference points: Draw center crosshairs for P1/P2/P3 on the fabric with a water-soluble pen/chalk.
  • Success check: Before starting P2/P3, a hand-wheel needle drop lands exactly on the marked crosshair and the fabric remains square (not twisted).
  • If it still fails: Increase holding power (more adhesive/support) and re-check that each color block truly stays inside a single P-zone.
• Q: How do I verify every SewWhat-Pro color block is fully inside P1, P2, or P3 for the Brother 5x12 (Jumbo Overlap) hoop before saving _P1/_P2/_P3?
  A: Do a full “click-through” inspection: every single block must live entirely inside one colored zone.
  • Cycle blocks: Click each color block in the right panel one-by-one while watching the red/green/blue overlays.
  • Look for boundary offenders: Check start/end points and tiny running-stitch tails that sneak across a line.
  • Leave margin when possible: Place cut lines so the stitched edges stay a little away from the zone boundary.
  • Success check: No highlighted block touches/crosses another zone line, and SewWhat-Pro saves and generates _P1, _P2, _P3 files successfully.
  • If it still fails: Zoom to 600% and inspect the smallest segments near the boundary; re-cut only the offending micro-section.
• Q: What should I do if SewWhat-Pro adds jump stitches after cutting a design for Brother PE770 5x12 repositionable hoop files?
  A: Remove or control long jump connectors before stitching so the presser foot does not snag loops during travel.
  • Identify the jumps: After cutting, inspect areas where a single block was split into separate islands.
  • Clean in software: Use the Eraser Tool to remove long jumps when appropriate before saving the final split.
  • Plan trimming strategy: If leaving jumps, plan to trim cleanly after stitch-out rather than letting loops build up.
  • Success check: The stitched result does not have long loose loops that catch during high-speed moves, and travel lines are manageable to trim.
  • If it still fails: Revisit the cut placement—cuts made through dense areas can force ugly connectors; re-cut through open space instead.
• Q: What safety steps should I follow if the Brother PE770 needle hits the plastic frame when using a 5x12 repositionable hoop and split _P1/_P2/_P3 files?
  A: Stop immediately and confirm the correct hoop/file pairing before restarting to prevent needle breakage and machine jams.
  • Hit Emergency Stop: Do not “push through” a frame strike.
  • Verify file order: Load _P1 first, then _P2, then _P3 (mix-ups are a common cause of out-of-bounds stitching).
  • Confirm hoop recognition: Ensure the machine is set up for the attached hoop and trace/check the boundary before stitching.
  • Success check: A boundary trace/preview stays safely inside the hoop opening and the needle path clears the plastic at all extremes.
  • If it still fails: Re-check SewWhat-Pro hoop selection (must be Brother 5x12 (Jumbo Overlap)) and re-export the split files.
• Q: When should a Brother PE770 user stop relying on SewWhat-Pro splitting and upgrade technique, magnetic embroidery hoops, or a multi-needle embroidery machine for large designs?
  A: Upgrade in layers: optimize technique first, then reduce hoop slippage with magnetic hoops, and move to a larger-field multi-needle machine when time and rehooping become the bottleneck.
  • Level 1 (Technique): Choose designs with open gaps for seams, use stronger stabilization + adhesive, and mark centers for consistent repositioning.
  • Level 2 (Tool): If fabric slips or hoop burn distortion ruins alignment during repositioning, a magnetic embroidery hoop can clamp fabric more evenly and make P1→P2 moves more consistent.
  • Level 3 (Production): If splitting/rehooping dominates your time (e.g., long setup vs short stitch time) or volume work is growing, consider a multi-needle machine with a larger continuous stitch field.
  • Success check: The workflow change reduces visible P1/P2 gaps and cuts hooping time without increasing rejects.
  • If it still fails: Treat the symptom as a diagnosis—persistent pull/shifting usually means stability/hooping method needs improvement before pushing more complex splits.