Digitize & Stitch an ITH Zipper Coin Purse (4x4 Hoop): From Microsoft Paint to a Clean Turned Finish

Designing vector Shapes in Microsoft Paint for ITH Embroidery: The Comprehensive Guide

If you have ever bought one too many In-The-Hoop (ITH) files and thought, "I understand the mechanics—I should be able to make a simple zipper template myself," you are ready to graduate. This project is the perfect bridge between "I can stitch a purchased file" and "I can engineer my own designs."

We will create a basic square coin purse for a 4x4 machine workflow, using Microsoft Paint to draw clean guide shapes that become separate stitch steps. While MS Paint seems rudimentary, it teaches you the fundamental logic of digitization: shapes equal steps, and colors equal stops.

What you will master (The "Why" behind the "How")

• Pixel-Perfect Precision: How to draw a true square in Paint by monitoring pixel dimensions to prevent distortion later.
• Color-Stop Logic: Using different colors as "step separators" so software like Sew Art recognizes exactly when to pause for fabric placement.
• The ITH Workflow: Understanding the non-negotiable sequence: Die Line (Placement) → Zipper Tack-down → Fabric Tack-down → Final Seam.
• Collision Avoidance: How to engineer your file to prevent the two classic ITH disasters: the fabric folding under itself, and the presser foot striking the zipper pull.

Part 1: The Digital Blueprint (Designing in Paint)

In this phase, we act as architects. Your screen is the drafting table. The key here is not artistic flair, but geometric discipline.

Step 1 — Draw the Main Square (Final Seam Path)

In Paint, start by drawing one large square. This is not just a box; physically, this line represents the final seam that holds your entire project together.

The Expert Nuance: Do not eyeball it. Look at the status bar in Paint (usually bottom left). You want a true square (e.g., 510 x 510 pixels). If you draw a rectangle now, your final pouch will be skewed, and your zipper won't sit perpendicular to the edges.

Checkpoint: Visually confirm the lines are crisp (single pixel width is ideal). Ensure the pixel width and height match exactly.

Expected Outcome: A clean, single-color square outline that defines the perimeter of your pouch.

Step 2 — Add the Zipper Placement "Die Line" Box

Switch to a distinctly different color (e.g., Red). Draw a thinner rectangle inside the top third of your square.

• Purpose: This defines the "safe zone" for your zipper tape.
• Dimensions: It should be wide enough to accommodate the zipper teeth plus the tape, but not so wide it hits the top seam.
• The Center Line: Draw a line straight down the middle of this box. This is your visual anchor for centering the zipper teeth during the physical stitch-out.

Checkpoint: The zipper box is centered horizontally. The different color is crucial—if it’s the same color as the square, the machine won't stop, and you won't be able to place your zipper.

Expected Outcome: A clear "landing strip" for your zipper.

Step 3 — Add Zipper Stitch-Down Lines

Choose a third color. Add parallel lines inside the zipper placement area, flanking the center line.

Expert Insight: Beginners often over-complicate this by adding complex zigzag patterns or too many lines. The creator notes that adding extra lines "closer and closer" becomes pointless. You need just enough grip to hold the zipper tape to the stabilizer. Two straight parallel lines are sufficient.

Checkpoint: Ensure these lines are inside the zipper box. If they act as the tack-down, they must land on the fabric/tape, not in the air.

Expected Outcome: A stitch-down zone that secures the zipper without perforating the tape so much it tears.

Step 4 — Add Fabric Tack-Down Rectangles

Using a fourth color, create rectangles that define where the fabric panels will be placed. These usually mirror the top and bottom sections of the pouch.

The Logic: These rectangles tell the machine: "Stop here so the human can place the fabric." Without this color change, the machine stitches continuously, and you have no opportunity to build your layers.

Checkpoint: Your tack-down steps align perfectly with the zipper area. Gaps here mean holes in your coin purse later.

Expected Outcome: Clearly defined "stops" that orchestrate the construction sequence.

Optional — Add a Simple Applique Shape

The video demonstrates adding a shape (like a star) as a decorative element.

Part 2: From Drawing to Data (Processing in Sew Art)

This is the translation phase where "pixels" become "stitches." This process requires cleaning the image to prevent the machine from reading noise as stitches.

Step 1 — Paste and Crop Aggressively

Paste the Paint artwork into Sew Art. Immediately crop as close as possible to the border.

Why this matters: Excessive white space around your design "steals" usable hoop area. A 4x4 hoop is small; you cannot afford to waste 0.5 inches on empty canvas.

Checkpoint: Zoom in. Is the border perfectly intact, but touching the edge of the crop zone?

Expected Outcome: Maximum design size relative to the canvas.

Step 2 — Resize with Aspect Ratio Locked

Set the design to the maximum usable safety limit for your 4x4 hoop.

• Standard Limit: 3.90 inches (99mm). Going to full 4.00" often triggers a machine error.
• Lock Aspect Ratio: Checked.

Checkpoint: After resizing, look at the lines. Did they blur? If lines disappeared, your original drawing lines might have been too thin.

Expected Outcome: A 3.90" square design that fits your hoop without triggering "Design Too Large" errors.

Step 3 — Reduce Colors (The Cleanup)

The video demonstrates reducing the color count (e.g., down to 5 colors).

The "Why": Images often contain "anti-aliasing"—faint gray pixels between black lines and white backgrounds. The machine interprets these gray pixels as a separate color step, causing unnecessary thread changes. Reducing colors forces the software to make a clear choice: stitch or don't stitch.

Checkpoint: Your key construction colors (Outline, Zipper, Tack-down) must remain distinct.

Step 4 — Select Stitch Types for Durability

This is the most critical technical decision. For the structural seams (the outline and centerline), the video suggests:

• Stitch Type: Bean Stitch (also known as Triple Run).
• Length: 2.0 mm to 2.5 mm.
• Height/Density: ~25.

Expert Explanation: A standard "Run Stitch" (single pass) is too weak for a pouch that will be turned inside out and stuffed with coins. A Bean Stitch goes forward-back-forward, creating a thick, rope-like seam that withstands stress.

Checkpoint: The preview should look bold and solid, not like a dotted line.

Expected Outcome: A seam that survives the "birthing" process (turning the bag inside out).

A Practical Note on "Hooping Stations"

The creator points out that software steps don't always match physical reality. If your stitch placement consistently drifts off-center, the issue might not be the file, but your hooping. If you struggle with maintaining straight lines across multiple items, the term hooping station for machine embroidery refers to tools designed to standardize this alignment, helping you diagnose whether an error is digital (file) or physical (hands).

Part 3: The Setup (Physics & Safety)

This project is stitched on a 4x4 machine using stabilizer, a zipper, and fabric. The physical setup is where 90% of ITH failures occur. We must control two physical forces: Shear (side-to-side shifting) and Lift (fabric flagging).

The "Hidden" Consumables List

Beyond fabric and thread, have these ready to prevent frustration:

• Tape: A high-quality embroidery tape or painter's tape that holds firm but peels clean.
• Scissors: One pair for fabric, one dedicated pair for cutting stabilizer/zipper teeth (don't ruin your fabric shears!).
• Needle: Size 11/75 or 14/90. Since we are stitching through zipper teeth and multiple layers of tape/cotton, a standard needle might deflect.
• Water Soluble Pen: For marking center points on your fabric.

Warning (Safety): Keep fingers, loose sleeves, and dangling threads away from the needle area. When placing fabric, keep hands at the perimeter of the hoop. Never try to hold fabric near the needle while it is moving.

Warning (Equipment): If you choose to upgrade your tools, be aware that many magnetic embroidery hoops use powerful industrial N52 magnets. They can pinch fingers severely. Do not use high-power magnetic hoops if you have a pacemaker without consulting a doctor.

Stabilizer and Hooping Strategy

The video shows stabilizing the hoop and "floating" materials.

The Physics of Hooping: The stabilizer acts as the foundation. It should feel taut, like a drum skin. Tap it—you should hear a distinct thump, not a dull rattle.

The Upgrade Path: Traditional screw hoops often cause "hoop burn" (permanent creases) on delicate fabrics because they rely on friction and extreme pressure. For frequent ITH projects involving thick zippers, magnetic embroidery hoops generate clamping force vertically. This secures the "sandwich" without the distortion caused by forcing an inner ring into an outer ring.

Zipper Orientation (Critical Failsafe)

• Face Up: Zipper teeth visible.
• Pull Outside: The zipper pull must be outside the stitching area initially.
• Tape: Tape the ends flat.

Checkpoint: Run your finger over the zipper. It should lie flat against the stabilizer with no arching or buckling.

Prep Checklist

• Needle Check: Is it new? Pass the finger test (no burrs).
• Bobbin: Do you have enough thread for the whole project? (Running out mid-seam is a nightmare).
• Stabilizer: Drum-tight test passed.
• Zipper: Aligned to center, pull moved to the perimeter.
• Tape: Strips pre-cut and stuck to the machine edge for quick access.

Part 4: The Stitch-Out (Execution)

We now execute the code. The video emphasizes a "Stop and Go" rhythm. Do not walk away from the machine during an ITH project.

Step 1 — The Map (First Outline)

Run the first color step directly onto the stabilizer.

Sensory Check: Look at the lines. Are they rectangular? If the square looks like a rhombus, your stabilizer was hooped crookedly or is too loose.

Expected Outcome: A stitched blueprint on your stabilizer.

Step 2 — Zipper Placement

Align your zipper exactly between the stitched guide lines. Tape the top and bottom ends generously.

Checkpoint: Zipper is centered; tape is secure.

Step 3 — The Anchor (Zipper Tack-Down)

Stitch the tack-down lines.

Sensory Check: Listen to the machine. It should sound rhythmic. If you hear a "thud-thud-thud," the needle might be struggling to penetrate the zipper tape glue or heavy weave.

Concept: This step transfers the load from the tape to the thread. The zipper is now mechanically locked to the stabilizer.

Step 4 — Fabric Placement (The Sandwich)

The video uses cotton folded in half to create a finished edge.

• Align the folded edge with the zipper teeth (or your guide line).
• Tape the corners securely.

The Layering Challenge: As you add layers, the hoop gets heavy and the fabric thick. A standard screw hoop might pop open if the screw isn't tightened with a screwdriver. This is a scenario where a brother 4x4 magnetic hoop shines—it adjusts automatically to the changing thickness of the stack without needing re-adjustment.

Step 5 — The Danger Zone (Move the Pull!)

CRITICAL STEP: Before the final seam, you must unzip the zipper about 2/3 of the way.

1. Why Open? If you stitch it closed, you cannot turn the bag inside out. You will have created a sealed fabric envelope.
2. Why Move the Pull? The presser foot will collide with the bulky zipper pull if it is in the stitching path. Move the pull to the center-ish area where no stitching will happen, or carefully gauge where the foot travels.

Step 6 — Final Seam

Place your backing fabric face down over the entire stack. This covers the zipper and the front fabric. Tape all four corners. Re-run the final outline stitch (Bean Stitch).

Checkpoint: Watch the machine closely as it crosses the zipper teeth area. This is where needle deflection is most likely.

Operation Checklist

• Zipper tack-down stitches landed ON the zipper tape (not beside it).
• Fabric edges are folded and aligned straight.
• CRITICAL: Zipper is unzipped 2/3 of the way.
• CRITICAL: Zipper pull enters the "Safe Zone" (not in the needle path).
• Backing fabric covers the entire design area completely.

Part 5: Finishing (The Reveal)

Finishing turns a "stitched rag" into a professional product. The difference between amateur and pro is often in the trimming.

Step 1 — Cut the Turning Opening

Remove the project from the hoop. Turn it over to look at the stabilizer side. Carefully cut the stabilizer (only the stabilizer!) along the zipper teeth to reveal the opening.

Tactile Tip: pinch the stabilizer away from the zipper teeth before snipping to ensure you don't cut the zipper tape webbing.

Step 2 — Trim and Square

Trim the perimeter.

• Seam Allowance: Leave about 1/4 inch (6mm) around the seams.
• Corners: Clip the corners diagonally (without cutting the stitch) to reduce bulk when turned.

Commercial Insight: If you plan to sell these, consistent trimming is key. If you are mass-producing, repeated manual trimming and hooping can lead to Repetitive Strain Injury (RSI). Upgrading your workflow with ergonomic tools or hoop master embroidery hooping station systems helps standardize placement and reduce physical strain during the prep phase.

Step 3 — The turn

Reach through the zipper opening and pull the bag right-side out. Use a chopstick or point-turner to gently push the corners out square.

Checkpoint: Do the corners look sharp? Does the zipper run smooth?

Optional: Ribbons and Tags

If you want a ribbon loop, it must be placed inside the sandwich (loop facing in, tails facing out) before the final seam step.

Quality Control & Decision Tree

Run these checks immediately after turning.

The "Stitch & Fabric" Decision Tree

Use this logic to avoid puckering (the enemy of ITH projects):

1. Is your fabric stable (Quilting Cotton)?
   • Yes: Use Tearaway (Standard) or Medium Cutaway (Best for longevity).
   • No (Stretchy/Knit): STOP. You must use Cutaway stabilizer + Fusible Interfacing (brand name shape-flex, etc.) on the fabric. If you use tearaway on knit, the zipper will pull the fabric apart.
2. Are you stacking thick layers (Vinyl + Zipper + Lining)?
   • Yes: Use a sharp needle (Size 90/14). Slow the machine speed down (e.g., from 800 SPM to 600 SPM).
   • Optimization: If the hoop pops open, switch to a magnetic clamping system to handle the bulk.

Troubleshooting Guide

Final Thoughts

You have now moved from a passive user to an active creator. You have designed a vector file, processed it into machine language, and engineered a physical object.

For hobbyists, careful taping and a standard hoop yield great results. However, if you find yourself making 50 of these for a craft fair, the friction points—re-hooping time, finger strain, and alignment consistency—will become obvious. That is when tools like alignment stations and magnetic hoops transition from "luxuries" to "profit generators."

Final Delivery Standard

• Zipper operates without snagging stabilizer.
• Corners are distinct and square.
• No raw edges visible inside or out.
• Structural seams (Bean Stitch) hold firm when tugged.