Hatch Basics, Made Practical: Organize Designs, Convert Formats, and Customize Stitch Settings Without Costly Stitch-Outs

Introduction to Hatch Embroidery Basics

If you are new to Hatch (by Wilcom), or simply new to the intersection of digital design and physical stitching, here is the most important lesson from 20 years on the production floor: The machine only does what the software tells it to do.

The fastest way to improve your stitch-outs isn’t buying more designs—it’s learning how to manage, pre-check, and engineer the files you already have. Machine embroidery is an "experience science." It relies on the feel of the fabric, the sound of the machine, and the precision of your preparation.

In this "White Paper" level guide, we will move beyond basic button-pushing. You will learn how to:

• Eliminate "File Fatigue": Build a clean, searchable design library so you stop hunting and start stitching.
• Bulk Process: Convert multiple embroidery files into machine-ready formats (PES, DST, JEF, etc.) in a single pass.
• Engineer for Reality: Use the Customize Design toolbox to preview fabric/stabilizer needs, reduce puckering risk, avoid catastrophic hoop collisions, adjust density, and simulate the stitch order.

Every setting you touch in Hatch determines the physical outcome: how stable your fabric feels (is it drum-tight?), whether your needle survives the run, and whether your garment looks professional or puckered.

Managing Your Design Library Efficiently

The tutorial begins by switching into the Manage Designs toolbox.

Why this matters: Cognitive load. If you spend 15 minutes frustratedly clicking through folders to find a file, you bring that frustration to the machine. Hatch changes the interface depending on your task, making file-management tools (sorting, searching, thumbnails) front-and-center.

Step-by-step: Access the Manage Designs toolbox

1. Action: Click Manage Designs on the left sidebar.
2. Visual Check: Confirm the screen layout changes:
   • A directory tree appears on the left.
   • A thumbnail viewer (your "Visual Gallery") appears in the center.
   • The top toolbar transforms into file-management mode (view, sort, search).

Checkpoint: Browse your PC folders from the left pane. If you see your files as images rather than just names, you are ready.

Expected Outcome: You can visually scan designs instantly. No more guessing what "Flower_01.exp" looks like.

Create an “Embroidery Library” (Mental Mise-en-place)

If you have thousands of files, drilling down through C:UsersDocumentsMy Designs... every time is a waste of mental energy. The video demonstrates a "Link" method to pin your folders.

1. In the system tree, right-click the actual folder where your embroidery files live.
2. Hover over Include in Library.
3. Select Embroidery.

Checkpoint: Look at the top of the navigation pane under the Embroidery Library header. Your folder should now be listed there permanently.

Expert Insight: Do not store designs on your desktop. Create a master folder structure (e.g., Embroidery > Year > Category) and link that master folder. Organized data leads to organized stitching.

Customize your viewing style (Speed comes from visibility)

The host demonstrates changing icon size (switching to Large icons) and toggling the folder view to maximize screen real estate.

Pro Tip (Production Workflow): If you are doing volume work—perhaps running a fleet of machines or using a SEWTECH multi-needle machine for small business orders—time is money. Choose a view mode that lets you identify color changes and stitch counts at a glance. The goal is fewer clicks and zero "wrong file" errors.

How to Convert Embroidery File Formats in Bulk

One of the most valuable features for growing embroiderers is Convert Selected Designs.

The Use Case:

• You upgraded from a home machine to a prosumer model (e.g., Brother to Janome, or Single-needle to Multi-needle).
• You seek the efficiency of .DST files for commercial machines.
• You sell designs and need to provide every format package.

Step-by-step: Bulk format conversion

1. Select: In Manage Designs, highlight the design(s) you need to export.
2. Action: Click Convert Selected Designs.
3. Config: In the dialog, check the boxes for the machine formats required (e.g., .PES for Brother, .DST for Commercial/Tajima, .JEF for Janome).
4. Execute: Click Export.

Checkpoint: Ensure the output folder is correct so you don't lose the new files.

Expected Outcome: One click, five formats.

Expert Warning: Converting formats is like translating a language. A .PES file (smart) converted to .DST (dumb/stitch-based) loses color data. Always keep your original .EMB (Hatch working file) as your "Master," and treat the machine files as "Prints."

Using the Customize Design Toolbox

After organizing, we move to Customize Design. This is where we bridge the gap between digital pixels and physical thread.

Open a design (The Entrance)

• Double-click a thumbnail to open it.
• Alternatively: Single-click to highlight, then select Open Selected.

The toolbar will shift again. You are now in "Editor Mode."

Check Design Information (The Pre-Flight Check)

Before you even look for your hoop, you must check the flight data. Open Design Information. This tab reveals the DNA of your design: stitch count, color sequence, dimensions, and extensive fabric data.

Checkpoint: Verify the dimensions. If the design is 3.84 in x 3.85 in, it fits a standard 4x4 (100mm) hoop. If it is 4.1 in, it will not fit, and your machine will likely reject it or hit the frame.

Expected Outcome: You can immediately judge if this design matches your intended garment (e.g., a heavy 15,000-stitch design is suicide on a flimsy t-shirt without heavy stabilization).

Customize background and preview

The host shows how to change the background color.

Why this is critical: Contrast. If you plan to stitch white text on a black hoodie, change the background to black on screen. It prevents the "Invisible Thread" mistake where you accidentally pick a thread color that disappears into the fabric.

Optimizing Auto Fabric and Stabilizer Settings

This is the most scientifically important section: Auto Fabric. Software algorithms adjust stitch density (spacing) based on the material logic you select.

Step-by-step: Use Auto Fabric

1. In Customize Design, open Auto Fabric.
2. Change the fabric setting from Default to your actual material (e.g., Pure Cotton or Knits).
3. Watch closely: The Required Stabilizers field upgrades automatically.

In the example, selecting "Pure Cotton" prompts Hatch to recommend:

• Backing: Tear Away x 2

Checkpoint: The fabric type is set. You have a "Recipe" for your stabilizer.

The "Physics of Stitched Fabric" Decision Tree

Software gives you a recommendation; your hands give you the truth. Use this logic flow:

• Scenario A: Stable Woven (Cotton/Denim)
  • Software says: Tear Away.
  • Reality: Correct. Use two layers if the design is dense (>10,000 stitches).
• Scenario B: Stretchy Knit (T-Shirts/Performance Wear)
  • Software might say: Cut Away.
  • Reality: Mandatory Cut Away. Tear away will fail, causing the design to distort into a ball.
• Scenario C: Napped Fabric (Towels/Velvet)
  • Reality: Requires a Topper (Water Soluble) to prevent stitches from sinking, regardless of what the backing is.

Connecting Software to Hardware: The Hooping Variable

Hatch tells you how to stabilize (e.g., "Tear Away x 2"). But can you physically hoop it?

The Pain Point: Two layers of backing plus thick cotton can be a nightmare to hoop in standard plastic frames. You have to unscrew the ring, shove it down, tighten it, and pray you didn't stretch the fabric (which causes "Hoop Burn" or puckering).

Trigger for Tool Upgrade: If you find yourself struggling with consistent tension during hooping for embroidery machine tasks, or if your wrists hurt from wrestling plastic hoops, you have hit a hardware limit.

The Solution Ladder:

1. Level 1 (Technique): Use "Floating" (hoop the stabilizer, stick the fabric on top).
2. Level 2 (Tool): Upgrade to Magnetic Embroidery Hoops.
   • Why: They clamp using vertical magnetic force, not friction. No "hoop burn," no adjusting screws, and they handle thick Stabilizer x 2 sandwiches instantly.
   • Professional shops rely on these to maintain production speed.

Warning (Mechanical & Magnet Safety):
* Needles: Always keep fingers clear when the machine is moving. A 1000 SPM needle is invisible to the eye.
* Magnets: Magnetic hoops are industrial-strength. They can pinch fingers severely. Keep them away from pacemakers and sensitive electronics.

Safety First: Setting Auto Start and End Points

The video covers a step that saves needles and frames: Needle Positioning.

Step-by-step: Auto Start and End

1. Open Auto Start and End.
2. Select Maintain automatically.
3. Choose a grid position (usually Center).

The Logic: Commercial machines usually start in the center. Some home machines start at the edge. If you resize a design but leave the start point at the old edge coordinates, the needle might travel outside the new safe area and strike the plastic hoop. Bang. Broken needle, ruined hoop, timing off.

Checkpoint: Use the visual grid to confirm the crosshair is exactly where your machine expects it (usually center).

Visualizing Colors and Stitch Simulation

We avoid wasting thread and garments by simulating reality first.

Adjust Stitch Spacing (Density Control)

If Auto Fabric sets the density, but you know your specific thread is thicker (e.g., 30wt vs 40wt), you need manual control.

1. Select the object.
2. Click Adjust Stitch Spacing.
3. Use the slider to adjust percentage.

Sensory Check:

• Too Dense: The fabric feels like cardboard or "bulletproof." Vectors of tension pull the fabric inward (puckering).
• Too Loose: You see the fabric color peeking through the stitches.
• The Sweet Spot: Solid coverage, but the fabric remains pliable.

Color Wheel (Harmonious Recolor)

• Change Design Color: Open the palette sidebar to swap specific threads.
• Color Wheel: Select multiple objects and rotate the wheel. This shifts the entire color harmony (e.g., changing a "Spring" palette to "Autumn" tones) instantly without losing contrast ratios.

Checkpoint: Colors update in real time. Use this to match the thread cones you actually own.

Layout Planning (Insert Design)

You can combine designs (e.g., a Logo + a Monogram) in one file.

Checkpoint: Ensure the combined size does not exceed your maximum hoop limit.

Stitch Player (The Virtual Run)

The TrueView button toggles between "CAD view" (math) and "Thread view" (reality). The Stitch Player is your time machine.

Step-by-step:

1. Click Stitch Player.
2. Adjustment speed. Watch the "needle" draw the design.

Visual Check: Look for "Long Jumps." Does the machine jump from the top left to the bottom right and back? That’s inefficient and leaves long thread tails. If you see this in simulation, you can fix the sequence before stitching.

Prep

Before you stitch, we must establish "Shop Discipline." Software preparation means nothing if the physical environment is chaotic.

Hidden Consumables & The "Go-Bag"

Beginners often focus on thread but forget the adhesives and needles.

• Needles: Have a fresh needle (Ballpoint for knits, Sharp for wovens). A dull needle causes birdnesting.
• Adhesion: Temporary adhesive spray (like KK100) or a glue stick for applique.
• Marking: Water-soluble pens for centering.

We also mentioned the physical act of hooping. To ensure the design lands straight every time, many users upgrade to a hooping station for embroidery. This ensures that the "Center" you set in Hatch aligns with the "Center" on the chest of the shirt.

PREP CHECKLIST

• Data: Master design folders are linked in the library (not scattered).
• Hardware: Thumb drive acts as the bridge (if not using WiFi).
• Visuals: Hatch thumbnails are visible and scannable.
• Safeguard: Exported files are renamed (e.g., Design_V2_Cotton.pes) to preserve the original.
• Inventory: You have the specific stabilizer (e.g., Tear Away x2) demanded by the Auto Fabric tool.

Setup

Set your environment once, and every session becomes faster.

Workspace Configuration

• Manage Designs: Set to "Large Icons" for visibility.
• Customize Design: Enable "Show Hoop" to visualize physical boundaries.

Commercial Context: If you own a specific frame, like a hoop for brother embroidery machine (e.g., the SA440 5x7), select that exact hoop in Hatch’s hoop list. This adds a visual "No Fly Zone" to your screen.

SETUP CHECKLIST

• Library: Key folders pinned to Embroidery Library.
• Interface: Icon size set to Large.
• Info: "Design Information" tab is accessible.
• Boundaries: Hoop capability overlay is turned on.
• Simulation: You know how to launch Stitch Player.

Operation

This is the execution phase. The "Design Readiness" workflow.

The Standard Operating Procedure (SOP)

1. Locate: Find design in Library.
2. Audit: Check Design Info (Size, Stitch Count).
3. Material: Set Auto Fabric (e.g., Pure Cotton -> 2x Tear Away).
4. Density: Adjust Stitch Spacing if necessary (reduce for knits).
5. Safety: Set Auto Start/End to Center.
6. Simulate: Run Stitch Player to verify order.
7. Output: Bulk convert to your machine format (e.g., .PES/.DST).

Production Tip: If you are performing this workflow for 50 shirts, your bottleneck will move to the physical hooping. This is where a hoopmaster hooping station combined with magnetic frames pays for itself by reducing setup time from 3 minutes per shirt to 30 seconds.

OPERATION CHECKLIST (Pre-Button Push)

• Fabric Match: Auto Fabric setting matches the actual garment.
• Recipe: You have physically laid out the recommended stabilizer layers.
• Safety: Start/End point is Centered (or matches machine logic).
• Density: High-stitch count designs have been scaled or density-reduced.
• Color: Thread colors are staged in order.
• Dry Run: Stitch Player showed no awkward jumps or crashes.

Quality Checks

Connecting the digital input to the analog output.

1. The "Drum Skin" Tactile Check

When hooped, tap the fabric. It should sound like a drum (thump-thump). If it is loose, the software's density settings won't save you from puckering. Solution: Re-hoop or use a Magnetic Hoop.

2. The Start/End Confirmation

When the machine initializes, does the needle move to the center (or your planned start point)? If it moves to the edge, STOP. You have a coordinate mismatch. Re-check the "Auto Start/End" setting in Hatch.

3. The Underlay Observation

Watch the first few stitches (the Underlay). If the underlay is pulling the fabric inward immediately, your stabilizer is too weak, or your density is too high. Stop and add a "floating" layer of stabilizer underneath.

Troubleshooting

Real solutions for the problems seen in the video.

Comment-Driven FAQs

• "Can I change the color of a purchased design?" Yes. Hatch allows full recoloring via the Palette or Color Wheel.
• "Can I digitize my own logo?" Not in "Organizer" or "Personalizer" basics. You need the Hatch Creator or Digitizer tier to turn JPEGs into stitches.
• "Is puckering my fault?" Usually, it is a combination of hooping tension (physics) and stitch density (software). Solve physics first using magnetic hoops or better stabilizer, then solve software.

Results

By adopting this "White Paper" workflow, you transition from a hobbyist guessing at settings to an operator executing a plan.

• Organized: Your files are a library, not a junk drawer.
• Safe: You have mathematically minimized the risk of needle strikes using Auto Start/End.
• Optimized: You are using the correct stabilizer recipe (e.g., Pure Cotton = 2x Tear Away) derived from data, not guesswork.
• Efficient: You can convert files for any machine in seconds.

If you master the software but still find your production slowed down by the physical struggle of loading garments, remember that specific tools—like standard hoop for brother embroidery machine upgrades or professional magnetic frames—are the final piece of the efficiency puzzle. Many professionals search for how to use magnetic embroidery hoop videos specifically to solve the tension and hoop-burn issues that software alone cannot fix.