Hatch Create Outlines & Offsets: Custom Basting, Clean Towel Monograms, and Appliqué-Friendly Edges

Understanding the Create Outlines & Offsets Tool

If you digitize in Hatch long enough, you’ll notice a pattern: the designs that stitch “effortlessly” usually have extra structure that you don’t see at first glance—support lines, controlled offsets, and smart underlayers that keep fabric stable and edges clean.

In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to use Hatch Embroidery Digitizer Level’s Create Outlines & Offsets layout tool to:

• Build outline vectors from an existing object (like a large satin letter).
• Generate multiple offset rings (inside or outside) and choose the best one.
• Convert a chosen outline into an appliqué shape.
• Create a light, open mat-down (knockdown) layer to tame terry cloth loops.
• Add a final outline that follows the edge of stitches for a crisp finish.

A key mindset shift: this tool isn’t “just for adding outlines.” It’s a fast way to create production control—the kind that prevents shifting, reduces rework, and makes towel monograms look professionally finished.

Why You Need Custom Basting Stitches

A standard basting box from a machine is usually a simple square. On diagonal or irregular designs, that square leaves open space at corners—exactly where fabric can creep, rotate, or ripple during stitching.

The video shows a clear example: a diagonal design (like a tennis racket) where a square basting box leaves too much “free” area, increasing the chance of shifting. A custom-shaped basting line that hugs the design reduces that risk because it distributes holding force closer to the stitch field.

From a shop-floor perspective, this matters even more when you’re floating items (staking the item to the stabilizer/backing rather than hooping both together). If you are setting up a floating embroidery hoop scenario, a custom basting outline is often the only thing standing between a perfect design and a crooked disaster.

Why it works (practical physics, not theory):

• The Pull Force: Fabric shifts when the needle penetrations and thread tension repeatedly pull in one direction (the "Push-Pull" effect).
• The Hinge Effect: Open corners act like hinges; the fabric can pivot slightly with each stitch cycle.
• The Fix: A basting line that follows the design perimeter acts like a custom clamp, neutralizing that pivoting space.

Tool-upgrade path (when basting alone isn’t enough):

• The Pain Point: If you’re constantly fighting slippage, struggle with "hoop burn" (shiny rings left on fabric), or find the hooping process physically exhausting for production runs (e.g., 50+ shirts).
• The Solution: Consider magnetic hoops (like those from SEWTECH). Unlike screw-tightened hoops, they clamp evenly using vertical magnetic force, reducing fabric distortion and eliminating hoop burn on delicate items.

Warning: Needle Safety. Keep fingers clear of the needle area and moving parts during test runs. Ensure you use a sharp, straight needle. A dull needle creates a "thumping" sound and pushes fabric down into the plate, causing registration loss.

Step-by-Step: Creating Mat-Down Stitches for Towels

This walkthrough reproduces the video’s workflow: starting with a large built-in letter, then using outlines/offsets to convert it into an appliqué-ready shape with a knockdown layer for terry cloth.

1) Start with the letter and check size

The instructor uses a built-in letter (Flare Script) and checks its height.

• The letter is shown as 75 mm tall in Object Properties.
• The design height is also referenced as about 76.2 mm (≈ 3 inches).

Why this matters: Very large satin stitches are risky specifically on towels. Long satin stitches are loose and can snag on fingers or jewelry. Plus, without a foundation, terry loops poke through.

2) Open Create Outlines & Offsets

With the design selected:

• Go to the Create Layouts toolbox on the left.
• Click Create Outlines & Offsets to open the dialog.

3) Configure the Object Outline (perimeter line)

In the dialog:

• Check Object Outlines.
• Select Single Run.
• Select a distinct color (e.g., Green) for easy visibility.
• Select the center placement icon so the outline traces the object’s perimeter exactly.

Sensory Check: You should see a clean perimeter outline that sits "skin tight" right on the edge of the original stitches.

4) Configure Offset Outlines (multiple rings)

Still in the dialog:

• Check Offset Outlines.
• Set Offset count to 4.
• Set Offset distance to 2.00 mm.
• Select Rounded Corners.

The instructor also explains the direction rule:

• Positive offsets go outside the object.
• 0 places another outline on the perimeter.
• Negative offsets go inside the object.

Sensory Check: After clicking OK, look for the "ripple effect"—one green perimeter outline surrounded by multiple red offset rings.

5) Choose the best offset and delete the rest

The video shows that some inner offsets can create undesirable "dips" or jagged artifacts in tight curves.

Action Plan:

• Review: Zoom in and look at the red offset lines. Identify the one with the smoothest flow.
• Select: Use the Sequence Bar to select the specific red ring groups.
• Delete: Remove the rings that are too tight or irregular.

Expected outcome: You end up with one clean, closed outline that represents the ideal "patch shape" for your appliqué or knockdown.

6) Hide (don’t rush-delete) the original letter

Instead of deleting the original letter immediately, the instructor hides it:

• Right-click → Hide Selected.
  
  Pro tip

  Keeping the source object hidden is a "safety net." If you ruin your offsets, you can simply unhide the original and start again without reloading.

Configuring Offset Count and Spacing

Offsets are not “set-and-forget.” The count, distance, and corner style determine whether your outline is production-friendly or a nightmare to trim.

Offset count: why “4” can be useful

In the video, generating 4 offsets at 2.00 mm intervals creates a menu of options.

• Inner rings might be too tight, following every tiny imperfection of the letter.
• Outer rings smooth out the shape, making it better for trimming or appliqué coverage.

This strategy is crucial for script fonts where curves and joins behave unpredictably.

Corner style: rounded vs sharp vs cut

The instructor chooses Rounded Corners for a satin letter shape.

Decision Guide:

• Use Rounded: For script, floral, or organic shapes. It prevents "thread buildup" at sharp turns.
• Use Sharp: For block letters or geometric logos.
• Use Cut: To reduce bulk in extremely tight angles (advanced use).

Spacing for mat-down: intentionally open

For the knockdown layer, the video sets:

• Tatami stitch spacing = 1.80 mm (Standard is typically ~0.40mm, so this is very wide).
• Underlay = off

The Physics: This creates a light "net" that traps the terry loops down without creating a stiff, bulletproof patch. If you are building towel monograms as a product, this is the #1 way to improve perceived quality without adding minutes to your run time.

Converting Vector Outlines to Embroidery Objects

Once you have a clean closed outline, you can turn it into functional stitch objects.

A) Convert the outline into appliqué

The instructor uses the Appliqué Toolbox:

• Click Convert to Appliqué.

This answers the common question: “How do I add a placement line so I know where to put the fabric?” In Hatch, the Appliqué tool automatically generates:

1. Placement Line: Shows you where to put the fabric.
2. Tack-down: Secures the fabric so you can trim it.
3. Cover Stitch: The final satin edge.

Note: If you don't see the "Create Outlines & Offsets" tool, check your software tier. It is located inside the Digitizer Level under Create Layouts.

B) Create mat-down stitches (knockdown) behind the appliqué

The video’s workflow:

• Select the remaining outline object.
• Change from Outline to Filled.
• Choose Tatami.
• Set Spacing to 1.8 mm.
• Set Travel to Travel on the edge.
• Underlay: Go to the Stitching tab and turn off Underlay.
• Reorder: Move this object behind the appliqué in the Sequence Bar.

Sensory Check: The mat-down should look like a loose mesh on your screen—not a solid block of color.

Expected Result: The terry loops are depressed, creating a flat surface for the embroidery to sit on.

C) Add a final outline that follows the edge of stitches

The instructor demonstrates a detail for a "crisp" look:

• Open Create Outlines & Offsets again.
• Uncheck Offset Outlines.
• Check Object Outlines.
• Choose Triple Run.
• Color: Black (for contrast).

Result: A distinct Triple Run that sits exactly on the edge of the satin column, framing the design.

Prep

Even though this is a software lesson, your results depend significantly on the physical prep work—especially for towels.

Hidden consumables & prep checks

Beginners often focus on the machine and forget the "chemistry" of embroidery.

• Topping: Use a water-soluble topping (like Solvy) on top of the towel. This prevents the needle from pulling loops upward.
• Backing: Heavy towels need medium-to-heavy cutaway or tearaway stabilizer.
• Needles: Use a Sharp or Ballpoint 75/11 needle. A dull needle will push the towel pile down rather than cutting cleanly, causing registration issues.
• Adhesive: Use a temporary spray adhesive (e.g., 505 Spray) to bond the towel to the stabilizer prevents "shifting during floating."

Workflow Upgrade: If you are doing volume production, manual hooping is slow and inconsistent. Using a dedicated hooping station for embroidery ensures that every towel is placed at the exact same position on the hoop, reducing rejects.

Decision tree: towel + appliqué + knockdown

Use this logic to avoid guessing:

1) Is the towel thick/high-pile (e.g., Bath Towel)?

• YES: MUST use a knockdown texture (1.8mm spacing) AND water-soluble topping.
• NO: (e.g., kitchen tea towel): Knockdown is optional; satin might be enough.

2) Are you hooping or floating?

• Hooping: Ensure the hoop is "tight like a drum."
• Floating: Requires strong spray adhesive or a custom basting box (as learned above).

3) Are you looking for speed?

• Traditional Hoops: Slow, risk of hoop burn.
• Magnetic Hoops: Fast, minimal strain.

Tool-Upgrade Path: If you start receiving bulk orders (e.g., 100 towels for a gym), the repetitive motion of screwing traditional hoops can cause wrist strain (Carpal Tunnel). A magnetic hooping station combined with magnetic hoops turns a minute-long struggle into a 5-second "click."

Prep Checklist

• Software: Confirm Create Outlines & Offsets is unlocked in your Hatch level.
• Design: Check design size; excessively large satin stitches (>7mm) without split satin will snag.
• Consumables: Fresh needle installed? Solvy topping ready? Backing cut?
• Tools: Sharp scissors for appliqué trimming.
• Safety: Bobbin area cleaned of lint (towels shed aggressively).

Setup

Setup distinguishes the hobbyist from the pro. It’s about creating a controlled environment for the needle.

Software setup checkpoints

• Selection: Object must be selected before opening the tool.
• Outline: Set to Single Run, Center/Perimeter placement.
• Offsets: Count = 4, Distance = 2.00mm, Rounded corners to prevent sharp artifacts.
• Cleanup: Delete the "bad" rings; keep the "good" ring.
• Knockdown: Tatami, 1.8mm spacing, Underlay OFF.

Real-world setup: controlling towel distortion

Towels are compressible. When you hoop them in standard rings, you often have to over-tighten the screw, which "crushes" the loops and leaves a permanent ring mark (hoop burn).

The Professional Fix: Professionals often use magnetic embroidery hoops.

• Benefit: They hold thick towels firmly without crushing the fibers because they rely on vertical magnetic force rather than friction/distortion.
• Compatibility: Ensure the hoop fits your specific machine arm width.
• Alignment: Use an alignment system similar to the hoopmaster concept to ensure your magnetic hoop is perfectly straight every time.

Warning: Magnetic Safety. Powerful magnetic hoops can snap together with crushing force. Pinch Hazard: Keep fingers clear of the mating surfaces. Medical Hazard: Keep magnets away from pacemakers, insulin pumps, and credit cards.

Setup Checklist

• Offsets: Verify you have a clean, closed shape (no weird overlaps).
• Structure: Confirm Appliqué tack-down is present.
• Knockdown: Confirm spacing is 1.8mm (too dense = bulletproof patch; too loose = useless).
• Order: Sequence is: Knockdown (Bottom) → Appliqué → Final Outline (Top).
• Test: Always stitch a test on a scrap towel.

Operation

This is the execution phase. The goal is flow.

Step-by-step workflow (Condensed)

1) Select Object: Highlight your main letter. 2) Tool: Create Layouts → Create Outlines & Offsets. 3) Outline: Object Outlines ON (Single Run). Offset Outlines ON (Count 4, 2.00mm, Rounded). 4) Evaluate: Click OK. Visual check the red rings. 5) Refine: Delete the tight/jagged rings. Keep the smooth outer ring. 6) Hide: Hide the original letter. 7) Convert: Turn the chosen ring into Appliqué. 8) Knockdown: Copy the ring, convert to Fill (Tatami, 1.8mm, No Underlay). Move it to the start. 9) Finish: Add a Triple Run outline if desired using the tool again.

Efficiency note (Scale & Profit)

If you are doing one-offs, standard tools are fine. If you are scaling a business, time is inventory.

• Hooping Time: Can be cut by 50% using hooping stations.
• Machine Speed: If your single-needle machine takes too long for color changes, consider the ROI of a multi-needle machine (like SEWTECH models) which auto-changes colors, dramatically reducing downtime.

Operation Checklist (Pre-Flight)

• Lock: Ensure the correct outline is locked or selected.
• Hide: Is source object hidden?
• Layering: Is Knockdown definitely behind the Appliqué?
• Underlay: Is Knockdown underlay OFF? (Crucial!).
• Stitch-out: Listen for the "rhythm." A smooth thump-thump is good. A harsh bang usually means the needle is hitting the hoop or a tangle.

Quality Checks

How do you know if you succeeded? Use your senses.

Visual checks

• Edges: The appliqué edge should be framed cleanly by the Triple Run. No "hairy" fabric poking out.
• Pile: No colored towel loops should be visible through the satin stitching.
• Registration: The outline should not drift off the edge of the design (gap).

Touch checks

• Flexibility: The monogram should be pliable, not a stiff shield.
• Texture: Run your hand over it. It should feel smooth, not scratchy.

Process checks

• Drift: If you see the design shifting (gapping), your stabilization is weak.
• Hoop Burn: If you see a crushed ring on the towel, you over-tightened the hoop. Consider upgrading to a magnetic embroidery hoop to eliminate this instantly.

Troubleshooting

Symptom: Fabric shifts on diagonal designs

• Likely Cause: Physics. The machine pushes and pulls fabric at angles a square basting box can't support.

Symptom: Terry cloth loops poke through satin stitches

• Likely Cause: No Knockdown layer, or the satin density is too low.

Symptom: “I don’t have Create Outlines & Offsets”

• Likely Cause: Wrong software tier (Digitizer Level required) or wrong toolbox selected.

Symptom: Tool options are greyed out

• Likely Cause: No object selected.

Symptom: Offset lines look jagged or have weird loops

• Likely Cause: Mathematical artifacts from complex curves.

Results

By the end of this workflow, you generally move from "Hobbyist" to "Pro" status on towels.

• The Structure: A converted appliqué letter (durability).
• The Foundation: A light Tatami mat-down layer (1.8mm spacing) to suppress loops.
• The Finish: A crisp triple-run outline.

The bigger win is repeatability. Once you master offsets for towels, you apply the same logic to patches, key fobs, and heavy jackets. And remember: the best digitizing in the world can't fix a bad hoop job—so invest in your physical tools (stabilizers, magnetic hoops) just as much as your software skills.