HoopSisters at Houston Quilt Market: Quilt-in-the-Hoop Navigator Blocks, Foam-Structured Bags, and the Hooping Tricks That Keep Them Flat

If you’ve ever watched a beautiful in-the-hoop project stitch out perfectly on someone else’s machine and thought, “Mine would pucker, shift, or turn into a thread nest,” you’re not alone. Thick quilt sandwiches and foam-structured bags are where hooping and stabilization stop being “basic” and start being the whole game. This is where the physics of friction and drag take over.

At the 2022 Houston Quilt Market, Linda and Annie from HoopSisters showcased exactly the kind of projects that expose weak hooping techniques: the Navigator heirloom quilt blocks (made quilt in the hoop), plus structured bags like the Twisted Tote and the convertible Versatote, with a snap-in Versa Wallet accessory.

First, Breathe: Quilt-in-the-Hoop and ITH Bags Look Scary Because the Hoop Is Doing the Heavy Lifting

When you’re stitching a quilt block and quilting it at the same time—or building a bag body directly on foam—your hoop isn’t just “holding fabric.” It’s acting like a temporary worktable that must keep multiple layers aligned while the needle repeatedly punches and drags thread.

That’s why these projects feel pricey or “high commitment” to many stitchers: one slip in hooping or stabilization can waste premium materials fast. If the stabilizer isn't drum-tight, the foam bounces, the needle deflects, and you get gaps in your satin stitching.

Here’s the good news: you don’t need magic settings. You need a repeatable hooping system and the right stabilizer strategy for thickness.

The Navigator Heirloom Quilt: HoopSisters “Navigator” Block Sizes and What “Quilt in the Hoop” Really Means

HoopSisters introduced their Navigator quilt as part of their heirloom quilt collection. Annie explained that it’s a shop exclusive for 2023, meaning you’d get it through a local shop rather than treating it like a casual impulse download.

The key construction detail: each block is completed in the hoop, meaning the embroidery and quilting happen while the block is hooped—then blocks are assembled afterward.

Navigator block sizes shown in the video:

• 5 inch
• 6 inch
• 7 inch (the sample shown was seven-inch blocks)
• 8 inch
• 9 inch
• 10 inch
  

What experienced stitchers notice immediately

When a design is offered in multiple block sizes, the “same” motif can behave differently at 5" versus 10". Stitch paths, density distribution, and fabric drag scale differently.

• The Physics: Smaller blocks generally feel more stable because there is a smaller unsupported center area. Larger blocks (like the 9" or 10") introduce more "flagging"—where the fabric bounces up and down with the needle.
• The Golden Rule: If you plan to sell these, pick one size and perfect your tension for that specific hoop size. Don't jump between sizes until you have dialed in your stabilizer recipe.
  

The Battilizer Workflow: Hooping Battilizer First So Your Quilt Block Builds Cleanly on Top

Annie held up Battilizer, describing it as a combination of batting and stabilizer. The workflow she described is simple but biologically genius for reducing frustration:

1) Hoop the Battilizer in your embroidery hoop. 2) Build the quilt block directly on top of the Battilizer while stitching in the hoop.

In other words, you’re not trying to “marry” separate batting and stabilizer layers yourself—Battilizer is presented as the all-in-one base.

The “hidden” physics: why hooping the base layer first reduces shifting

In thick projects, top fabric layers creep. This happens because the needle penetrations coupled with top thread tension create tiny micro-tugs in the direction of the stitch. When the base layer is hooped tight (think: tight enough to tap securely, but not warped), it acts as an anchor.

However, traditional screw hoops struggle here. To hold a thick layer like Battilizer, you often have to unscrew the outer ring significantly, and retightening it can distort the fibers near the screw, causing an "oval" shape instead of a circle.

If you are struggling to get this base layer tight without hand strain, this is where magnetic hoops for embroidery machines provide an immediate mechanical advantage. Because they clamp straight down rather than pulling the fabric sideways (like a screw hoop does), you get even tension across the entire Battilizer surface without the physical wrestling match.

Warning: Mechanical Safety
Keep fingers well clear when the machine is running. On thick projects, needles are more prone to deflection and breaking. A flying needle shard can cause serious injury. Always stop the machine completely before reaching in to trim threads.

Prep Checklist (Do this before threading the needle)

• Verify Hoop Size: Confirm your hoop is the correct size for the chosen block (don't use a 10" hoop for a 5" block; the excess space causes vibration).
• Tactile Check: Run your hand over the Battilizer. It should be free of creases.
• Bobbin Strategy: Wind enough bobbins for the full block layout. Running out of bobbin thread in the middle of a dense quilting pattern creates visible tie-offs.
• Needle Audit: Install a fresh needle. For quilting layers, a size 90/14 Topstitch or Quilting needle is often the sweet spot to penetrate the bulk without shredding thread.
• Clear the Deck: Do a quick "hand sweep" around the hoop arm to ensure no pins or scissors will obstruct the movement.

The Twisted Tote + HoopShape: How Foam Stabilizer Creates Structure Without Turning Your Hoop into a Wrestling Match

Linda introduced the Twisted Tote project and noted it comes in two sizes (a smaller size and a large “huge” size). She also explained they use HoopShape, described in the video as a foam stabilizer, to build structure into the bag—stitching embroidery directly on top of that foam base while in the hoop.

What foam changes (and why hooping gets harder)

Foam adds three complications to the mix:

1. Compression: It squishes under the hoop frame.
2. Rebound: It tries to expand back, creating pressure against the inner ring.
3. Friction: It grabs the fabric, preventing micro-adjustments.

Generally, the best results come from even compression, not maximum compression. Over-tightening a standard hoop on foam can permanently "crush" the cells of the foam, leaving a flat, shiny ring that won't steam out.

This is a scenario where magnetic embroidery hoops shine. They distribute holding force around the entire perimeter rather than concentrating it at the screw mechanism. This minimizes the "crush ring" effect and prevents the foam from popping out of the frame mid-stitch.

Setup Checklist (Dial in your hooping system for foam)

• Relax the Foam: Place HoopShape flat and let it breathe for 1 hour; do not hoop it immediately after unrolling from packaging.
• Grain Alignment: Align grain/print direction before you magnetize or clamp. Once foam is compressed, you cannot tug it straight.
• Clearance Check: Do a slow hand rotation or "Trace" function. Ensure the foot doesn't drag on the lofty foam during travel moves.
• Speed Limit: For your first foam bag, cap your machine speed at 600 SPM. High speeds on foam can cause the foot to bounce, leading to skipped stitches.
• Tool Prep: Keep a dedicated pair of "junk snips" for cutting foam. Foam dulls precision embroidery scissors quickly.

The Versatote Demo: Converting a Tote to Backpack to Crossbody Without Rebuilding the Bag

Annie demonstrated the Versatote and why it’s named “Versa”: it’s designed to be worn multiple ways.

In the video, she showed three configurations: 1) Standard tote carry. 2) Pulling straps through the grommets to convert it into a backpack. 3) Adjusting it to wear as a cross-body bag.

Pro tip from the comment section (turned into a practical move)

Several viewers reacted with enthusiasm ("That bag looks like a must"), but enthusiasm often leads to rushing. When dealing with hardware like grommets and convertibility, layout is critical.

If you are running repeated bag orders for an Etsy shop or boutique, consistency is your currency. You cannot afford to have one bag's strap placement differ by half an inch. A magnetic hooping station solves this by providing a fixed template. You place the hoop, slide the stabilizer to the stops, and clamp. It reduces the "eyeballing it" time and ensures every Versatote comes off the machine identical to the last.

The Versa Wallet: The Snap-In Accessory That Lets One Small Piece Serve Multiple Bags

Linda showed the Versa Wallet, a smaller embroidered pouch with interior pockets. She demonstrated that it has snaps so it can attach inside the larger tote, and she also noted it can be moved between different bag sizes—snapping into the Versatote or onto the straps of the Twisted Tote.

Why this matters for selling (not just making)

From a studio owner’s perspective, modular accessories are a smart product ladder:

• The wallet is a reachable entry price point.
• The tote is the premium investment.
• The “bundle” increases average order value.

If you are trying to make your embroidery hobby pay for itself (perhaps saving for a SEWTECH multi-needle machine), this ecosystem approach supports upsells naturally.

The “Hidden” Prep Pros Use on Thick ITH Projects: Stabilizer Choices, Hooping Pressure, and Repeatability

The video highlights consumables like Battilizer and HoopShape because they simplify the layer stack. However, your success depends on matching the stabilizer to the physical demands of the project.

A simple decision tree: choose your stabilizer strategy

Use this logical flow to determine your base (always confirm with designer instructions):

Decision Tree (Project Goal → Base Choice)

1. Must be soft & drape (Quilts)? -> Choose Battilizer (Batting + Stabilizer mix).
2. Must stand up on its own (Bags)? -> Choose Foam (HoopShape or similar).
3. Is the fabric stretchy (Knits/T-shirt quilts)? -> Add a layer of Fusible No-Show Mesh to the back of the fabric before layering on batting/foam.
4. Is the pile deep (Velvet/Terry)? -> Add a Water Soluble Topping to prevent stitches from sinking.

Watch out: hoop burn and edge crush

We mentioned the "crush ring" earlier. On delicate fabrics or velvets, standard hoops create "hoop burn"—a permanent marring of the fibers.

To solve this, many professionals switch to a magnetic embroidery frame. Because the magnets hold significantly stronger than friction alone, you don't need to over-torque the fabric. The result is a secure hold with zero burn marks.

Warning: Magnetic Field Safety
Magnetic hoops use powerful Neodymium magnets.
* Health: Keep at least 6 inches away from pacemakers or insulin pumps.
* Pinch Hazard: They snap together instantly and with force. Keep fingers clear of the mating surface.
* Electronics: Do not rest them on laptops, phones, or near standard credit cards.

Troubleshooting the Stuff That Ruins ITH Quilts and Bags: Symptoms → Likely Cause → Fix

The video inspires you to start, but it doesn't show you what happens when things go wrong.

The Upgrade Path That Actually Makes Sense: When to Change Consumables, When to Change Tools, When to Change Machines

Not every problem needs to be solved with a credit card, but recognizing when your equipment is the bottleneck is key to growth.

If your pain is “My wrists hurt and I hate the struggle”

• Trigger: You physically dread the hooping process more than you enjoy the result.
• Solution Level 1: Use temporary spray adhesive to help position layers before hooping.
• Solution Level 2: Upgrade your workflow to SEWTECH Magnetic Hoops. By replacing the screw-tightening motion with a simple "Click-Snap" action, you reduce wrist strain and get better tension instantly.

If your pain is “I can’t produce these fast enough to sell”

• Trigger: You have orders for 20 totes, but your single-needle machine requires a thread change every 2 minutes.
• Solution: This is a capacity issue. SEWTECH Multi-Needle Machines allow you to set up 10+ colors at once. When combined with the larger throat space intended for bulky bags, you move from "crafter" to "manufacturer."

If you are researching systems like hoopmaster, you are already looking for consistency. Remember that the "system" includes the station, the hoop, and the machine. Integrating magnetic hoops into this workflow is the modern standard for efficiency.

Operation Checklist (The “Don't Ruin It At The Last Minute” List)

• Lock Verification: Ensure the hoop is fully seated and the attachment arm is locked. Listen for the "Click."
• Tail Management: hold the top thread tail for the first 5-10 stitches to prevent it from being pulled into the bobbin case creates a "bird's nest."
• Clearance Audit: visually check that the bag straps or excess quilt fabric are not tucked under the hoop.
• Relaxation: After unhooping, let the foam or quilt block sit flat on a table for 15 minutes to relax before trimming or sewing together.
• Consumable Check: Do you have Spray Adhesive (like Odif 505) and a Water Soluble Pen? You'll need the pen for marking center points on the foam.

If you’re excited by these HoopSisters projects, start small. Pick the 5" Navigator block or the Versa Wallet. Master the "sandwich," get the tension right, and then scale up. The stitch file provides the art, but your hands and your hoop provide the engineering.

FAQ

• Q: How do I hoop Battilizer for HoopSisters Navigator quilt-in-the-hoop blocks to prevent shifting and wavy blocks after unhooping?
  A: Hoop the Battilizer drum-tight first, then build the quilt block on top so the hooped base acts like an anchor.
  • Hoop: Place only the Battilizer in the hoop first; remove all wrinkles before tightening.
  • Float: Add the top fabric layers on top while stitching, using light temporary spray adhesive if needed.
  • Stabilize: Stick to one Navigator block size until the stabilizer “recipe” is consistent.
  • Success check: Tap the hooped Battilizer—surface feels evenly firm with no loose side opposite the screw and no visible ripples.
  • If it still fails: Slow the machine and review perimeter tension; uneven tension is a common cause of “wavy” blocks.
• Q: How do I prevent crushed white hoop rings and hoop burn when hooping foam stabilizer (HoopShape) for HoopSisters Twisted Tote and Versatote ITH bags?
  A: Use even compression instead of maximum tightening, because over-tightening on foam can permanently crush the cells and mark fabric.
  • Rest: Lay HoopShape flat for about 1 hour before hooping so it relaxes.
  • Align: Set grain/print direction before clamping; once compressed, foam won’t “tug” straight cleanly.
  • Limit: Cap speed to 600 SPM on the first foam bag to reduce foot bounce and shifting.
  • Success check: After hooping, the foam looks evenly compressed with no shiny flat ring or bright “crush” outline.
  • If it still fails: Re-hoop with less pressure and confirm the presser foot clears the loft during a trace/slow travel.
• Q: What is the safest way to prevent needle breaks when stitching thick quilt sandwiches and foam-structured ITH bags on a home embroidery machine?
  A: Slow down, use a fresh needle suited for bulk, and keep hands clear—thick layers increase needle deflection and break risk.
  • Replace: Install a fresh needle; a 90/14 Topstitch or Quilting needle is often a safe starting point for bulky layers (verify with the machine manual).
  • Reduce: Lower speed (600 SPM for early foam runs; go slower if seams are thick).
  • Clear: Stop the machine completely before trimming threads or reaching near the needle area.
  • Success check: Stitching runs without repeated “tick” sounds, skipped stitches, or visible needle wobble at travel points.
  • If it still fails: Avoid stitching directly over the thickest seam intersections and re-check the layer stack for unexpected bulk.
• Q: How do I stop top thread tails from causing a bird’s nest in the bobbin area at the start of an ITH quilt block or ITH bag panel?
  A: Hold the top thread tail for the first 5–10 stitches so it cannot get pulled down and tangled underneath.
  • Hold: Keep gentle tension on the thread tail at startup, then trim once the first stitches lock.
  • Verify: Confirm the hoop is fully seated and the attachment arm is locked before pressing start.
  • Inspect: Make sure excess quilt fabric, straps, or lining is not tucked under the hoop where it can snag.
  • Success check: The design begins with a clean, flat lock-in and there is no thread “puff” or knot forming under the hoop.
  • If it still fails: Stop immediately, cut away the nest, rethread, and restart—continuing usually worsens the jam.
• Q: How do I choose stabilizer layers for HoopSisters quilt-in-the-hoop quilts versus foam-structured ITH bags so satin stitches don’t gap or pucker?
  A: Match the base to the project goal: Battilizer for soft quilt drape, foam for stand-up bag structure, and add specialty layers only when fabric demands it.
  • Choose: Use Battilizer when the finished piece must stay soft (quilts); use foam when the piece must hold shape (bags).
  • Add: Fuse a no-show mesh to the fabric first when the fabric is stretchy (knits/T-shirt quilts).
  • Top: Use a water-soluble topping when the fabric pile is deep (velvet/terry) so stitches do not sink.
  • Success check: Satin columns look filled (no “gaps”) and the fabric around dense quilting stays flat when still in the hoop.
  • If it still fails: Reduce speed and improve layer control (light spray adhesive can help), then re-check hoop tension consistency.
• Q: What magnetic-hoop safety precautions should I follow when using a magnetic embroidery frame for thick ITH quilts and foam bags?
  A: Treat magnetic hoops like power clamps: keep medical devices and fingers safe, and keep magnets away from sensitive electronics.
  • Distance: Keep magnetic hoops at least 6 inches from pacemakers or insulin pumps.
  • Protect: Keep fingers off the mating surfaces—magnets can snap together instantly and pinch hard.
  • Isolate: Do not rest magnetic hoops on laptops, phones, or near standard credit cards.
  • Success check: The hoop closes under control (no uncontrolled “slam”), and hands stay clear throughout clamping and removal.
  • If it still fails: Slow down the hooping motion and separate/seat magnets one section at a time to maintain control.
• Q: For selling repeat ITH bags like HoopSisters Versatote and Twisted Tote, how do I improve consistent panel sizing: technique changes vs magnetic hoops vs upgrading to a multi-needle machine?
  A: Fix consistency in layers: start with repeatable hooping and measurement, then consider tools for repeatability, and only upgrade machines when the bottleneck is color-change capacity.
  • Level 1 (Technique): Measure and align carefully before stitching; use a consistent hooping routine so panels are not stretched differently.
  • Level 2 (Tool): Use a hooping station approach for fixed placement so every panel lands identically instead of “eyeballing.”
  • Level 3 (Capacity): Move to a multi-needle setup when orders outpace single-needle thread-change time and thick-bag throat space becomes limiting.
  • Success check: Multiple panels from separate runs stack evenly with matching edges and hardware placement lines up without forcing.
  • If it still fails: Audit hoop tension and layer creep first—uneven hoop pressure is a common root cause of mismatched panel sizes.