Table of Contents
Materials Needed for ITH Ornaments
This project is a beginner-friendly In-The-Hoop (ITH) ornament that finishes as a neat, double-sided felt “patch” with sparkling windows and a ribbon hanger. Unlike traditional embroidery where you stitch onto a piece of fabric, ITH projects are essentially engineering tasks—you are constructing a sandwich of materials directly on the machine.
You’ll stitch almost everything in the hoop, then do a controlled trim and optional decoration at the end. The beauty of felt is that it doesn’t fray, making it the perfect material for your first ITH attempt.
What you’ll learn (and why it matters)
- The "Sandwich" Physics: How to build a front + back felt sandwich in one hooping so the ornament looks finished from both sides without alignment errors.
- Structural Embedding: How to place ribbon so it’s actually captured by lock stitches (the "Pull Test" ensures it doesn't fail later).
- Mylar Mechanics: How to utilize Mylar for sparkle without creating messy, jagged edges.
- The Quarter-Inch Rule: How to trim for a consistent margin that looks intentional and professional.
Materials shown in the video
- Stabilizer: Tear-away (Standard weight, approx. 1.5 - 2.0 oz).
- Fabric: Two felt squares, 5 x 5 inches (one for the front, one for the back). Expert Note: stiff craft felt holds shape better than soft wool blend felt for this specific project.
- Ribbon: 1/8" or 1/4" satin ribbon (white).
- Sparkle: Two Mylar pieces, 4 x 3 inches (iridescent wrapping paper works too).
- Adhesion: Painter’s tape (Low-tack green or blue) or embroidery-specific tape.
- Thread: Polyester embroidery thread (40wt is standard).
- Cutting Tools: Fabric scissors (for the heavy lifting) and double-curved appliqué scissors (crucial for getting close to the satin stitch).
- Optional: Artificial greenery/berries + hot glue gun.
Hidden Consumables (The stuff no one tells you about)
- 75/11 Sharp Needles: While ballpoints are for knits, sharp needles pierce felt cleanly without pushing the fibers into the bobbin case.
- Lint Roller/Brush: Felt generates significant "dust." You will need to clean your bobbin case after this project.
- Fresh Bobbin: Don't play "bobbin chicken" with an ITH project; running out mid-sandwich is a nightmare to fix.
Pro tip from the comments: “Why not let the machine cut it out?”
A viewer asked why the machine doesn’t cut the border so scissors aren’t needed. On industrial setups using laser attachments or dedicated cutwork needles, this is possible. However, for 99% of home and small-business users, a true “cut-out in the hoop” finish carries high risk. This specific ornament is carefully designed to be trim-finished. This gives you that patch-like 1/4" felt margin, avoiding the catastrophic risk of the needle slicing your satin border or severing the ribbon loop.
Warning: Mechanical Safety: Keep fingers clear of the needle area at all times. Never reach under the presser foot while the machine is running to adjust tape. Felt is thick; if a needle breaks, fragments can fly at high velocity. Wear glasses or keep the safety shield down.
Hooping Strategy: Using Magnetic Hoops for Felt
The video uses a magnetic hoop (audio mentions a 6" hoop, while the visible label shows 5.5"). Whether you are using a standard screw hoop or a magnetic upgrade, the physics goal is the same: Zero Movement.
Why magnetic hooping helps on felt (and where it can go wrong)
Felt is deceptive. It looks easy, but it is thick and compressible.
- The "Hoop Burn" Problem: With traditional screw hoops, you have to muscle the inner ring inside the outer ring. This friction often crushes the felt fibers, leaving a permanent ring mark ("hoop burn") that ruins the aesthetics of your ornament.
- The Distortion Problem: As you tighten the screw, the stabilizer often twists, distorting your square into a diamond shape.
Magnetic hoops eliminate this friction. They clamp straight down using vertical force. This is why professional shops prefer them for small-batch production like ornaments.
If you’re learning how to use magnetic embroidery hoop, focus on two specific sensations:
- Tactile: The stabilizer should feel flat and drum-tight. If you tap it, it should have a slight bounce, not a dull thud.
- Auditory: The hoop magnets should engage with a confident snap—not a slow slide.
Step 1 — Hoop the stabilizer (taut means truly taut)
Video action: Place tear-away stabilizer over the bottom ring, ensure it is square, then lower the top ring to snap it in place.
Checkpoint:
- Stabilizer is smooth with absolutely no ripples or "waves."
- The hoop closes evenly all the way around without pinching your fingers.
- The Pull Test: Gently tug the corners. If the stabilizer slips, the magnets aren't seated, or the screw hoop isn't tight enough.
Expected outcome: A concrete foundation. If this foundation is weak, your front and back designs will not align.
Upgrade path (Tool Choice: Skill vs. Scale)
If you are making one ornament for a grandchild, a standard hoop is fine—just be careful with tension. However, if you are doing a production run of 50+ ornaments for a craft fair, your wrists will fatigue from the screw-tightening motion. Many shops move toward magnetic embroidery hoops because the clamp speed and consistency reduce setup time by 30-50% and virtually eliminate "redo" pieces caused by slack stabilizer.
Step-by-Step Embroidery Process
This is the core ITH workflow. Think of it as printing a 3D object in slow motion. The sequence is rigid: placement stitch → ribbon loop → front felt tack-down + details → back felt tack-down + satin border → window stitching + Mylar tear-away → final details.
Speed Recommendation: Normally, you might run at 800-1000 SPM (Stitches Per Minute). For ITH projects involving thick felt and Mylar, slow down to the Beginner Sweet Spot: 600-700 SPM. Precision beats speed here.
Step 2 — Placement stitch + ribbon loop
Video action: Stitch the placement outline on the stabilizer. Fold ribbon in half to form a loop, then tape it at the top center so the ribbon ends overlap the placement stitch line.
Checkpoint:
- Ribbon loop points upward (away from the center of the design).
- Crucial: Ribbon tails extend at least 0.5 to 1 inch into the design area.
- Tape is secure but placed beside the stitching path, not directly under where the satin stitch will land (which makes tape hard to remove).
Expected outcome: The ribbon is captured by stitches later and becomes a strong hanger.
Watch out (The "Pop-Out" Failure): If the ribbon tails don’t cross deep into the stitch path, the loop will pull out the first time you hang it.
Step 3 — Front felt placement + tack-down + roof/year details
Video action: Place one 5x5" felt square over the placement stitch (covering the ribbon tails), tape corners, then stitch the tack-down line plus roof details and “2025.”
Checkpoint:
- Felt fully covers the placement outline with at least a 1/2" margin on all sides.
- Tape is applied on the outer perimeter only.
Expected outcome: Clean decorative stitching on the front, with the ribbon tails trapped underneath.
Step 4 — Back felt placement (flip the hoop) + satin border
Video action: Remove the hoop from the machine (do not remove the stabilizer from the hoop!). Flip the hoop over. Tape the second 5x5" felt square to the back side of the stabilizer, covering the stitch area. Return to the machine and stitch the tack-down and satin house border.
Checkpoint:
- The Flip Check: Ensure the hoop is locked back into the pantograph correctly.
- Back felt covers the entire stitched area.
- Tape is secure and flat. If the back felt sags, it will catch on the throat plate and ruin the project.
Expected outcome: A neat, double-sided ornament blank. The satin border is the "glue" that locks the sandwich together.
Why this “flip-and-tape” method works
In ITH, you’re utilizing the stabilizer as a suspension system. The satin border is doing two jobs: it’s decorative and structural. If the back felt shifts even a few millimeters, you’ll see the white stabilizer peeking out after trimming.
If you’re running a professional tajima hoop setup (whether on a commercial multi-needle or a prosumer machine), this principle of "suspension stability" is exactly how patches are made industrially. Stability first, speed second.
Adding Sparkle with Mylar Applique
Mylar adds a high-end "stained glass" effect for pennies. However, Mylar is slippery and static-charged.
Step 5 — Tape Mylar on the front and back window areas
Video action: Tape one Mylar rectangle over the window area on the front. Flip the hoop and tape the second Mylar rectangle over the corresponding window area on the back.
Checkpoint:
- Mylar fully covers the window stitch area.
- Static Check: Use a dryer sheet or anti-static spray on your hands if the Mylar keeps jumping around.
Expected outcome: Mylar stays perfectly still while the machine perforates it with the window grid stitches.
Step 6 — Stitch window grids, then tear away excess Mylar
Video action: Stitch the window panes over the Mylar (this perforates it like a stamp). Remove the hoop. Gently tear away the excess Mylar outside the stitches on both sides.
Checkpoint:
- Window grid stitches are 100% complete before you tear.
- You tear outward and away from the stitched window area.
Expected outcome: Sparkle remains only inside the window grids; the rest removes cleanly.
Pro tip (From the Trenches): Mylar works best with a "Standard fill" or "Cross hatch." If customization is needed, avoid dense satin stitches over Mylar, as they can cut the film entirely and it will fall out.
If you’re investigating different clamping systems, you'll find that brands like mighty hoops magnetic embroidery hoops are frequently discussed in forums regarding Mylar work. The reason is practical: the consistent pressure across the entire frame prevents the Mylar from slipping during those high-speed jumps between window panes.
Finishing Touches: Cutting and Decorating
Once the stitching is done, the finishing is where you distinguish a "craft project" from a "boutique product."
Step 7 — Unhoop, remove stabilizer, and trim a 1/4" margin
Video action: Remove from hoop. Tear away the excess tear-away stabilizer (support the stitches with your thumb while tearing). Then, using sharp scissors, trim around the house leaving a 1/4 inch felt margin.
Checkpoint:
- Stabilizer is removed cleanly from the edges.
- Scissors stay parallel to the satin border.
- Critical: You carefully navigate around the ribbon loop—do not cut it!
Expected outcome: A consistent patch-style outline that looks intentional and hides minor edge variations.
Optional decoration — hot glue greenery at the base
Video action: Hot glue artificial greenery/berries to the bottom edge and let it dry.
Expected outcome: A dimensional, gift-ready ornament.
Warning: Magnetic Safety: If using magnetic hoops, be aware they contain powerful neodymium magnets. Keep them away from pacemakers, insulin pumps, and magnetic storage media. Watch your fingers—these magnets effectively "bite" if you get skin caught between the rings (Pinch Hazard).
Comment-inspired reality check: you can skip the greenery
One commenter mentioned they didn’t bother with the greenery. That’s a smart choice for shipping. Bulky glue items can detach in the mail. If you want a "flat pack" product, let the embroidery speak for itself.
Prep
Professional results start before you press the "Start" button. This is your "Mise-en-place."
Hidden consumables & prep checks (the stuff beginners forget)
- Needle Check: Is your needle straight? Roll it on a flat surface to check. A bent needle will deflect on the thick felt and ruin the satin border.
- Thread Path: Floss the tension discs. Felt dust can accumulate there quickly.
- Tape Prep: Tear 6-8 strips of painter's tape and stick them to the edge of your table before you start. You don't want to be fumbling with a tape dispenser while holding the fabric in place.
If you’re building a repeatable ornament workflow, a magnetic hooping station can significantly reduce handling time. It holds the outer ring stationary, allowing you to align your stabilizer and fabric with two hands instead of fighting gravity.
Prep Checklist (do this before you press Start)
- Needle: Installed a new or sharp 75/11 needle.
- Bobbin: Full wind, correct color (white usually matches best).
- Materials: Stabilizer cut larger than the hoop.
- Felt: Cut to 5" x 5" (Front & Back).
- Mylar: Cut to 4" x 3" (Front & Back).
- Ribbon: Cut and folded (Tape ready).
- Tools: Appliqué scissors and standard shears on the table right side.
- Machine: Speed lowered to 600-700 SPM.
Setup
Hoop size note (audio vs visual)
The tutorial mentions a 6" hoop in audio, while the visible hoop label shows 5.5". The practical takeaway: Use the smallest hoop that fits the entire design comfortably. Too big, and you waste stabilizer; too small, and the needle hits the frame.
Decision tree: stabilizer choice for felt ITH ornaments
Use this logic flow to avoid the "Wavy Border" syndrome.
Start → What is your Felt type?
-
Stiff Craft Felt (Acrylic/Polyester, hard sheet)
- Choice: Medium Weight Tear-Away.
- Why: The felt supports itself. The stabilizer just needs to hold it in the hoop.
-
Soft Wool/Blend Felt (Drapes like fabric)
- Choice: Cut-Away or Firm Tear-Away + Spray Adhesive.
- Why: Soft felt stretches. Without Cut-Away, the satin stitches will pull the felt inward (puckering).
-
Production Run (50+ units)
- Choice: Medium Tear-Away + Magnetic Hoop.
- Why: Speed is priority. Tear-away is faster to finish. The magnetic hoop keeps tough felt from slipping.
-
You want the cleanest edge with minimal fuzz
- Choice: Wash-Away (Fibrous).
- Why: You can dissolve the excess edge capability, leaving 100% felt. (Advanced technique).
If you are producing many ornaments and want fewer rejects, consider updating your toolset. Professionals utilize embroidery hoops magnetic not just for luxury, but because the elimination of "hoop burn" means you save money on wasted felt.
Setup Checklist (right before stitching)
- Stabilizer is drum-skin tight (Tap test).
- Hoop is securely locked into the embroidery arm (Wiggle test).
- Thread color #1 is threaded and tension feels consistent.
- No loose objects (scissors/tape) are on the machine bed.
Operation
Run order (as demonstrated)
1) Hoop stabilizer taut. 2) Stitch placement outline. 3) PAUSE: Tape ribbon loop (Check overlap!). 4) Place/tape front felt; stitch tack-down + roof details + “2025”. 5) PAUSE: Remove hoop, Flip, Tape back felt. 6) Stitch tack-down + satin border (The sandwich is sealed). 7) PAUSE: Tape Mylar front + back. 8) Stitch window grids. 9) PAUSE: Tear away excess Mylar carefully. 10) Stitch snow/details + final tack-down line. 11) Unhoop; tear away stabilizer; trim 1/4" margin.
Operation Checklist (quality checkpoints while the machine runs)
- Visual: Tape never crosses the path of the walking foot or needle.
- Tactile: Felt stays flat (no bubbling in the center).
- Auditory: Machine sounds rhythmic. A loud "thunk-thunk" usually means the needle is dulling against the thick felt sandwich.
- Safety: You pause and re-check ribbon capture before the machine sews over it.
If you’re doing this on a multi-needle setup and considering magnetic hoops for tajima embroidery machines, the biggest practical win is repeatability and the ability to hoop thick items without adjusting screws between every single run.
Quality Checks
What “good” looks like on this ornament
- Ribbon: Centered, upright, and immovable when tugged.
- Border: Smooth satin stitch with no loops (tension correct) and no gaps (stabilizer didn't slip).
- Mylar: Sparkle is confined to the panes; no jagged plastic sticking out of the satin stitch.
- Finish: Trim margin is an even 1/4" roughly parallel to the stitching.
Small-batch production note
If you’re making more than a few, time your process. The slowest steps are usually: taping placements, flipping/handling the hoop, and trimming. Many studios upgrade tools when the labor cost of those steps becomes the real bottleneck—this is where something like a 5.5 mighty hoop starter kit (or an equivalent magnetic frame that fits your machine model) becomes a practical investment in your own sanity and profitability.
Troubleshooting
Symptom: Ribbon loop pulls out after finishing
Likely cause: "Short Tail Syndrome." The ribbon tails didn't cross the stitch line far enough.
Symptom: Felt shifts and the back doesn’t align with the front
Likely cause: Gravity. The back felt sagged while you were sliding the hoop back onto the machine.
Symptom: Window Mylar looks messy or tears into the window area
Likely cause: Tearing too aggressively or tearing before the perforation stitches were 100% done.
Symptom: Satin border looks wavy or puckered
Likely cause: Stabilizer was too loose (The #1 Enemy).
Symptom: You accidentally nick the ribbon or border while trimming
Likely cause: Cutting too fast or using the wrong scissors.
Results
You now have a double-sided 2025 gingerbread house ornament with sparkling Mylar windows, a secure ribbon hanger, and a clean patch-style trim margin.
For gifting or selling, the most “professional” improvements come from consistency: taut hooping, accurate ribbon capture, and patient trimming. If you plan to make these in batches, treat your tools as part of the ecosystem. A reliable magnetic hoop setup and consistent consumables not only reduce rework but make your output look uniform from the first ornament to the fiftieth. Happy stitching