Make Any ITH Sunglasses Case Look Custom: Swap Hatch Motif Fills Without Wrecking Your Stitch Order

If you’ve ever opened an In-The-Hoop (ITH) file and thought, “I love the project… but I’m tired of that same default cross-hatch fill,” you’re in the right place. Changing a decorative fill in Hatch is easy to start—and surprisingly easy to mess up at the finish line. One wrong click, and you end up with the wrong layer selected, a broken stitch order, or a Step 1 file that no longer matches Step 2.

Caroline from SewCanShe demonstrates a clean, repeatable workflow using Hatch Embroidery Digitizer: edit the fill in the Step 2 file, transfer that exact fill into the Step 1 file, and export for your embroidery machine.

As an embroidery educator, I’m going to keep her keystrokes intact, but I will layer on the physical production guardrails—tension checks, stabilizer choices, and machine speed limits—that prevent thread nests, distorted textures, and wasted materials.

The Calm-Down Moment: Your Hatch Motif Fill Isn’t “Locked”—You Just Need the Right Layer Selected

Caroline starts by showing finished embroidered sunglasses cases and reminding you why this project is addictive: it’s fast, it’s scrap-friendly, and the surface texture makes it look boutique.

Here’s the first mindset shift: You are not editing “the whole case.” You are editing one specific object—the decorative fill layer—so Hatch can regenerate the motif cleanly.

If you’re coming from a production mindset, consistency is non-negotiable. The fill needs to stitch at the exact same moment in the sequence in both files. If it shifts, you risk stitching over your satin borders or crushing the pile of your fabric.

The “Hidden” Prep Pros Do First: Open Both Sunglasses Case Files and Protect Your Original

Caroline opens Sunglasses Case Step 1 and Sunglasses Case Step 2. Step 2 has a wide satin stitch around the whole case (final assembly), while Step 1 only has satin at the opening. This tells you exactly where the fill must land: before any satin finishing.

Before you touch a single node, do the “Safety First” prep that saves you from corrupted files and wasted fabric:

1. Open both files simultaneously in separate tabs. You will be copying the edited fill from one to the other.
2. Version Control: Save copies immediately labeled as Step 1 – Spools and Step 2 – Spools.
3. Physical Prep (The "Invisible" Consumables): Since you are altering fills, you are altering stitch counts.
   • Needle: Switch to a fresh 75/11 Embroidery Needle. Burrs on old needles will snag complex motif fills.
   • Bobbin: Ensure you have a full bobbin. Running out of bobbin thread in the middle of a complex geometric fill creates a visible "join" line that is hard to hide.

Prep Checklist (Do this BEFORE editing):

• Files: Open both Step 1 and Step 2 in Hatch; save as new versions.
• Visual Interface: Confirm you can see the Sequence tab on the right.
• Tools: Confirm you can open Object Properties (Edit Objects → Object Properties).
• Placement: If you plan to add text/monograms, identify the "Safe Zone" away from the thickest seams.
• Hardware: Install a fresh needle and check that your bobbin case is clean of lint.
  

The Sequence Tab Trick in Hatch: Select Only the Fill Layer (Not the Whole Design)

Caroline works in Step 2 first. She goes to the Sequence tab on the right to see every step in the design, then clicks the Fill step (the floral pattern).

You’ll know you did it right because the fill object highlights (look for the magenta outline on-screen). This is the digital equivalent of hooping for embroidery machine technique: you must isolate the specific area you want to control without distorting the surrounding elements. If you select the whole design, any resizing you do will ruin the dimensions of the case itself.

Object Properties → Motif: Where Hatch Hides the Good Stuff (and Why Motifs Go Wrong)

Next, Caroline opens Object Properties. If it isn’t open, go to Edit Objects > Object Properties. Inside, she ensures the Motif option is active and browses the library (categories like Blackwork and Single Motifs).

The Expert "Why" (Physics of the Stitch): A motif fill is a repeated element placed on a grid.

• The Trap: Default settings in software are often engineered for flat cotton with zero loft.
• The Reality: If you stitch a default density motif onto fleece or felt, it will look "muddy" or bullet-proof stiff.
• The Fix: We must manually adjust size and spacing to let the fabric breathe.
  

The Spool Motif Makeover: Set Size to 1.00, Then Dial Spacing Until It Stops Looking “Crowded”

Caroline chooses a spool-style motif and hits the common problem: the spools are too close together. Her fix is simple, repeatable, and mathematically sound:

1. Increase Motif Size:
   • She types 1.00 into both Height and Width.
2. Adjust Layout Spacing:
   • She changes Row Spacing and Column Spacing to 1.00 inch.
   • She tests 1.50 inches (too sparse).
   • She settles on 1.25 inches.

Sensory Check: Look at the screen. You want to see "white space" between the spools equivalent to roughly 20-30% of the spool's size. If the elements are touching, your machine will hammer that spot repeatedly, potentially causing thread breaks or needle deflection.

What to expect on-screen (Visual Validation)

As she increases spacing, the pattern updates dynamically. If your preview looks "busy" or vibrating, the spacing is too tight. If it looks disconnected, it's too loose.

Warning: Mechanical Safety. When testing dense motif fills, reduce your machine speed. Complex non-linear movements generate heat. Start your test stitch at 500-600 SPM (Stitches Per Minute). High speeds on dense fills can cause needle deflection breaks—flying metal shards are a safety hazard. Always wear eyewear when testing new densities.

Copy/Paste Without Chaos: Move the New Fill Up One Slot, Then Delete the Old Floral Fill

Now Caroline transfers the edited fill into Step 1. This is the critical moment for stitch logic.

The Workflow:

1. In Step 2, ensure the new fill is key-selected.
2. Click Copy.
3. Switch to Sunglasses Case Step 1.
4. Open Sequence, scroll to the bottom, and click Paste.

The Danger Zone: After pasting, the new fill appears at the very end of the stitch list. If you export now, your machine will try to stitch the decorative fill on top of your finished satin edges or your final seam.

The Correction:

1. Select the new fill at the bottom.
2. Use the Move Up arrow once. It must sit before the satin finishing.
3. Select the original floral fill and Delete it.
   

Setup Checklist (Before Export):

• Sequence Check: In Step 1, is the pasted fill layer located before the final satin stitch?
• Singularity: Have you deleted the old fill? (Check stitch count—if it doubled, you forgot to delete).
• Naming: Are files saved clearly (e.g., Step 1 – Spools) to prevent overwriting the original assets?
• Layer Check: Verify no fill stitches extend into the seam allowance where the machine foot travels.

The Baby Block “3D” Fill in Hatch: Block18 + Row Offset 0.50 Is the Whole Secret

Caroline’s second example uses a Baby Block fill. This creates a stunning 3D tiling effect that looks incredibly complex but is just simple geometry.

Back in Step 2, she selects the fill:

1. Properties: Single Motifs → Block18.
2. Size: Set Width/Height to 1.00.
3. Spacing: Set Row/Column Spacing to 1.00 inch.

At this stage, it looks like a boring grid. To get the "interlocking" look, she uses the Row Offset.

• Setting: She types 0.50 inch.
  
  
  

The Finesse Move: Visual Locking

She gradually reduces Row Spacing using the down arrow key.

• Visual Cue: Watch where the points of the cubes meet.
• Stop Point: When the bottom point of the top row perfectly touches the top point of the bottom row. Not overlapping, just touching.
  

Rotate the Motif Fill Like a Pro: Layout Angle 90 vs -90 Changes the Whole Vibe

Once the Baby Block pattern is seamless, Caroline changes the Layout Angle:

• 90 degrees: Vertical orientation.
• -90 degrees: Flipped orientation.

Commercial Insight: If you run a small embroidery business, this is how you expand your catalog. One ITH file + 5 different fill angles/types = 5 distinct products. This maximizes the ROI of your purchased design file.

Keep Step 1 and Step 2 Matched: Copy the Baby Block Fill, Paste Into Step 1, Then Delete the Old Fill

Caroline repeats the transfer method exactly:

1. Step 2: Copy fill.
2. Step 1: Paste fill.
3. Sequence: Move Up (Gray Arrow).
4. Cleanup: Delete old fill.

Why redundancy matters: If Step 1 uses a Spool fill and Step 2 uses a Baby Block fill, the embroidery will physically fail during the assembly phase because the thread densities and pull compensation won't align.

Exporting From Hatch Output Design: The Last 2 Minutes That Decide Whether Your Machine Reads the File

Caroline exports via Output Design.

Troubleshooting "Invisible Files": If your machine cannot see the file on the USB stick:

1. Format: Is the stick formatted to FAT32? (Most machines require this).
2. Capacity: Is the stick too large? (Try 8GB or smaller; 64GB sticks often fail on older machines).
3. File Name: Are there special characters? (rename Step 1 – Spools!.jef to S1_Spools.jef).

If you are setting up a professional workflow, a dedicated hooping station for embroidery helps with physical consistency, but a disciplined digital export routine is what prevents software bottlenecks.

Adding Monogramming on Top of a Motif Fill: Make It Pretty Without Turning It Into a Brick

A viewer asked about adding monograms. Yes, you can, but layer management is critical.

The Physics of Stacking: Stitching a satin monogram on top of a dense motif fill creates a "bulletproof patch." The needle has to penetrate stabilizer + fabric + motif thread + monogram thread.

• Risk: Thread shredding, needle heat, stiff finish.
• Solution: In Hatch, choose a motif with more open spacing (airier) if you plan to place text on top. Or, use the "Remove Overlaps" tool if your software level permits.

Stability Solution: When you layer heavy stitches, fabric shifting is the enemy. Utilizing magnetic embroidery hoops is the gold standard here. Unlike traditional friction hoops that distort bias grains, magnetic hoops clamp flat. This stability keeps your monogram perfectly aligned with the underlying texture without puckering.

Decision Tree: Fabric Type → Stabilizer Strategy for ITH Sunglasses Cases

The video uses scraps, but not all scraps are equal. Use this decision tree to match your consumables to your design.

Starting Point: What is your outer fabric?

• A: Quilting Cotton / Woven (Stable)
  • Stabilizer: Medium Tearaway (e.g., SEWTECH Tearaway).
  • Needle: 75/11 Sharp or Universal.
  • Risk: Low. Standard ITH ease.
• B: Vinyl / Faux Leather (Non-porous)
  • Stabilizer: Medium Cutaway (provides support so needle perfs don't tear).
  • Needle: 75/11, ensure it is sharp.
  • Risk: Perforation cuts. Do not use dense motifs. Increase spacing by 20%.
• C: Knit / Stretchy Scraps
  • Stabilizer: Fusible No-Show Mesh (Cutaway).
  • Hidden Consumable: Use temporary spray adhesive to bond fabric to stabilizer.
  • Risk: Distortion. The motif will pull the fabric into an hourglass shape.
• D: Minky / Fleece (High Loft)
  • Stabilizer: Cutaway + Water Soluble Topper.
  • Why? Without a topper, the motif stitches will sink into the fluff and vanish.

The Hooping Reality Check: Motif Fills Expose Bad Hooping Faster Than Satin Ever Will

Linear motif fills act like graph paper. If your fabric is hooped crookedly or stretched, the geometric pattern will wave and warp.

The "Hoop Burn" Problem: Traditional hoops require you to jam inner and outer rings together. On thick ITH layers (batting + lining + front), this often leaves permanent "hoop burn" marks or fails to hold tension entirely.

The Commercial Solution:

1. Level 1 (Technique): Wrap your inner hoop frames with bias tape for grip.
2. Level 2 (Tool Upgrade): Switch to a magnetic hooping station or magnetic frames. These use force to clamp directly down, eliminating the "push-pull" distortion of standard hoops. This is vital for ITH projects where you cannot iron out hoop marks later.
3. Level 3 (Scale): If you are running batches of 50 cases, manual single-needle hooping breaks your workflow. Moving to a SEWTECH multi-needle machine setup allows you to prep the next hoop while the first is stitching, doubling your throughput.

Warning: Magnet Safety. Magnetic hoops use industrial-strength neodymium magnets. They can pinch fingers severely. Keep them away from pacemakers and credit cards. Do not let them snap together without fabric in between.

Troubleshooting the Top 4 Motif Fill Failures

If things go wrong, start your diagnosis here.

Operation Checklist: A Clean “Test Stitch” Routine Before You Commit

Before you cut into your favorite vintage fabric scraps:

• On-Screen Audit: Does Step 1 match Step 2 in motif type and angle?
• Sequence Audit: Is the fill stitching second-to-last (before final satin)?
• Export Audit: Is the file exported to a clean, formatted USB stick?
• Tension Check: Pull a few inches of thread from the needle. Resistance should feel like flossing teeth—firm but smooth. If it's loose, your motif will loop.
• Test Run: Stitch the motif on a scrap piece of similar fabric/stabilizer sandwich.

If you are working with janome embroidery machine hoops or similar specific brands, remember that every machine has a slightly different tolerance for density. A test stitch is the only way to verify that your digital edits translate to physical reality.

The Upgrade Result: Faster Variations, Cleaner Texture, and a Real Path to “Sellable” Consistency

Caroline’s method gives you a repeatable way to create multiple product lines from a single ITH file. By mastering the Object Properties > Motif panel, you effectively become your own fabric designer.

However, as your confidence grows, your bottleneck will shift from "designing" to "producing." If you find yourself wrestling with fabric slippage or struggling to hoop thick ITH sandwiches, that is the trigger to evaluate your tools. Whether you are using a hoopmaster style alignment system for commercial runs or upgrading to SEWTECH Magnetic Hoops for effortless clamping on a single-needle machine, the right tool protects the quality of the design work you just perfected.

FAQ

• Q: In Hatch Embroidery Digitizer, how can a user select only the motif fill layer in the Sunglasses Case Step 2 file without accidentally selecting the whole design?
  A: Use the Sequence tab to click the specific Fill step so only the fill object highlights.
  • Open Sequence on the right and click the Fill step (not the design workspace background).
  • Confirm the fill object shows a clear highlighted outline before opening Object Properties.
  • Edit motifs only after the correct fill object is selected.
  • Success check: The fill area highlights (and only the fill highlights) when clicked in Sequence.
  • If it still fails: Close and reopen Object Properties via Edit Objects → Object Properties, then reselect the Fill step in Sequence.
• Q: In Hatch Embroidery Digitizer, why does a pasted motif fill in the Sunglasses Case Step 1 file stitch over satin borders, and how can the stitch order be corrected?
  A: The pasted fill lands at the end of the Sequence, so it must be moved up before the final satin step.
  • Paste the edited fill into Sunglasses Case Step 1, then go to Sequence and find the pasted fill at the bottom.
  • Click the pasted fill and use Move Up once so it sits before the satin finishing.
  • Select the old/original fill in Step 1 and Delete it to avoid doubled stitching.
  • Success check: In Sequence, the motif fill appears immediately before the final satin border—not after it.
  • If it still fails: Compare stitch counts; if the count looks doubled, the old fill was not deleted.
• Q: In Hatch Embroidery Digitizer motif fills, how can a user fix “muddy texture” and overly stiff results when stitching motif fills on high-loft fabrics like fleece or felt?
  A: Open up the motif by increasing spacing and avoid overly dense motif settings for lofted fabrics.
  • Increase Row Spacing and Column Spacing (the blog example tests 1.00", 1.50", and settles at 1.25" depending on look).
  • Reduce motif crowding until elements are not touching and the fabric can “breathe.”
  • Stitch a small test on a matching fabric + stabilizer sandwich before committing.
  • Success check: The stitched texture looks crisp (not piled up), and the fabric does not feel “cardboard stiff.”
  • If it still fails: Switch the stabilizer stack to Cutaway + Water Soluble Topper for minky/fleece so stitches don’t sink and compress the pile.
• Q: For ITH sunglasses cases, what stabilizer and needle setup should be used for minky or fleece when the motif fill keeps sinking and disappearing?
  A: Use Cutaway stabilizer plus a Water Soluble Topper, and start with a fresh 75/11 embroidery needle.
  • Hoop Cutaway as the base support and add Water Soluble Topper on top of the fabric to prevent stitch sink.
  • Install a fresh 75/11 Embroidery Needle to reduce snags on complex motif fills.
  • Clean lint from the bobbin area before the test run, because fleece sheds and can destabilize tension.
  • Success check: The motif remains visible on the surface (not buried), with clean edges and consistent texture.
  • If it still fails: Increase motif spacing (less density) and slow the machine down during the densest sections.
• Q: What is a safe machine-speed starting point when test-stitching dense motif fills to reduce needle deflection and needle-break risk?
  A: Start test stitching dense motif fills at 500–600 SPM and only speed up after the sample is stable.
  • Reduce speed before pressing start whenever a new motif density or complex non-linear fill is being tested.
  • Run a small sample on scrap fabric/stabilizer first, not the final project.
  • Wear protective eyewear during density tests, because a broken needle can become a hazard.
  • Success check: The machine runs smoothly without repeated “popping” sounds, thread shredding, or visible needle strikes.
  • If it still fails: Increase motif spacing and re-test—dense re-penetration is a common trigger for heat and deflection.
• Q: What magnet safety rules should be followed when using magnetic embroidery hoops for ITH projects to prevent injuries and device/card damage?
  A: Treat magnetic hoops like industrial clamps—control the snap, protect fingers, and keep magnets away from sensitive items.
  • Keep fingers out of the closing path and lower magnets deliberately; do not let magnets snap together freely.
  • Keep magnetic hoops away from pacemakers and away from credit cards and magnetic-sensitive items.
  • Store magnets separated or secured so they cannot slam together unexpectedly.
  • Success check: The hoop closes smoothly without pinching, and fabric is clamped flat without forced pushing/pulling.
  • If it still fails: Pause and reposition—never “muscle” the magnets together on thick ITH stacks.
• Q: When ITH motif fills keep warping, leaving hoop burn, or shifting on thick multi-layer sandwiches, what is a practical upgrade path from technique to tools to production capacity?
  A: Start by improving hooping technique, then upgrade to magnetic hoops for stability, and consider a multi-needle setup only when volume demands it.
  • Level 1 (Technique): Wrap inner hoop frames with bias tape for better grip and less distortion on thicker stacks.
  • Level 2 (Tool): Use magnetic hoops/frames to clamp flat and reduce push-pull distortion that causes hoop burn and pattern waviness.
  • Level 3 (Capacity): If producing batches (e.g., dozens at a time), consider a SEWTECH multi-needle machine workflow to reduce hooping bottlenecks.
  • Success check: Geometric motif lines stitch straight (no “wave”), and the fabric shows minimal or no permanent hoop marks after stitching.
  • If it still fails: Re-check stabilizer choice by fabric type (woven vs knit vs vinyl vs loft) and re-test at reduced speed.