PE-Design 10 Jump Stitches: The “Scissor Disappears” Node Trick That Makes Lettering Sew Faster (Without Ruining It)

If you have ever stood by your machine, watching it stitch a single letter—stop, chunk-chunk, whir—trim the thread, jump two millimeters, and start again, you know the specific kind of madness involved in standard lettering.

It’s not just the noise. It’s the time. It is the rhythmic, mechanical hesitation that turns a 5-minute name drop into a 15-minute ordeal.

What you are experiencing looks like a machine limitation, but it is actually a digitizing choice. In PE-Design 10, those stops are optional. Kathleen McKee’s method involves a technique known as "manual pathing"—connecting the end of one letter to the start of the next so the machine sees a continuous line rather than a series of interruptions.

But before we start "deleting scissors," we need a reality check on the physics of embroidery. You cannot teleport thread. If you remove a command to cut the thread, that thread still has to physically travel from Point A to Point B. Our goal is to make that travel short, hidden, and safe.

Here is your master class on controlling the trims without ruining the garment.

Don’t Panic When You See Scissors: Understanding the "Stop" Signal

In PE-Design 10, the small scissor icons aren't error messages. They are explicit instructions telling your machine: "Stop here, engage the cutting blade, lift the needle, and move."

From a production standpoint, this is expensive.

• The Time Cost: A trim cycle takes between 7 to 10 seconds depending on the machine model.
• The Math: If a team roster has 20 names, and each name has 6 letters with trims between them, you are losing roughly 20 minutes of production time just to mechanical hesitation.

This is why owners of a brother embroidery machine—especially single-needle home models—often feel they are "slow." It’s rarely the stitch speed (SPM) that is the bottleneck; it is the trim frequency. Learning to control these scissors is the first step in moving from "hobbyist" to "production mindset."

The "Hidden Prep": Essential Text Attributes *Before* Conversion

Most beginners rush straight to editing. This is a mistake. Once you convert text to stitch data, you lose the ability to easily change global settings like density and compensation. Kathleen sets the foundation first.

1. Density: The "Goldilocks" Zone

Kathleen sets the density to 5.0 lines/mm.

• Why: Standard density is usually around 4.5 to 5.0. If you go too high (e.g., 6.0+), you risk "bulletproof" embroidery that is stiff and breaks needles. If you go too low (below 4.0), the fabric shows through.
• Sensory Check: Good density should feel solid but flexible, not like a piece of cardboard stitched onto the shirt.

2. Pull Compensation: The 0.4 mm Safety Net

She increases Pull Compensation to 0.4 mm. This is the non-negotiable hero of lettering.

• The Physics: When a machine makes a satin stitch, the thread tension pulls the fabric edges inward. A column that looks 2mm wide on screen might sew out as 1.5mm wide on a polo shirt because the fabric bunches.
• The Fix: Pull compensation deliberately makes the digital design "fatter" than necessary to compensate for this physical "shrinkage."
• Without it: Your letters will look anemic, and you will see gaps between the outline and the fill.

3. Under Sewing (Underlay)

Kathleen keeps Under Sewing checked. Never turn this off for lettering. It anchors the fabric to the stabilizer before the satin stitches lay down, preventing the dreaded "wormy" look where stitches roll off the edge.

Warning: Do not rely on density to fix coverage issues. Increasing density increases the "push/pull" distortion. Always use Pull Compensation and proper Stabilizer to fix gaps.

Prep Checklist (Do this BEFORE clicking 'Convert'):

• Text is typed and centered.
• Density is verified between 4.5 - 5.0 lines/mm.
• Under Sewing box is CHECKED.
• Pull Compensation is set to 0.3mm - 0.4mm (Use 0.4mm for knits/polos).
• Save a backup copy of the working file (name_editable.pes).
  

The Visibility Hack: Making the "Invisible" Scissors Appear

A common frustration in the comment section sounds like this: "I followed the video, but I don't have any scissor icons on my screen!"

PE-Design 10 hides these by default for certain machine profiles. You must force the software to show you the "Raw Data."

1. Open Design Settings (The flower/gear icon).
2. Change Machine Type to Multi-needle machine.
   • Note: Even if you own a single-needle machine, change this setting in the software. It unlocks the visualization tools we need. This does not break your file for your actual machine; it is a display preference.
3. Set Minimum jump stitch length to 2.0 mm. This tells the software "Anything longer than 2mm requires a trim."
4. Go to the View Tab and ensure View Thread Trimming is checked.

Now, you will see the scissor icons appear between the letters.

This visualization is crucial. It helps you understand the pathing logic that users of larger machine embroidery hoops use to optimize large designs. You cannot fix what you cannot see.

The Reality of Single-Needle vs. Multi-Needle Trimming

Here is a hard truth from the workshop floor: Software commands cannot override mechanical limitations.

If you have a basic single-needle machine, it may not have an automatic thread cutter (trimmer). Even if you leave the scissor command in the file, the machine might ignore it, or simply stop and beep for you to cut it manually.

• Multi-Needle Machines: Will obey the scissor command, cut the thread, and jump.
• Single-Needle Machines: Some trim only on color changes. Others trim on jumps. You must check your machine's manual.

If your machine doesn't auto-trim, this tutorial is even more important for you. By connecting the letters (removing the trim command), you are creating a continuous stitch path, saving yourself from having to manually snip threads between every single letter.

The Point of No Return: "Convert to Stitches"

This is the moment the text stops being a "font" and becomes strictly "shapes made of needle points."

• Action: Select Text -> Tab 'Text' -> Convert to Stitches.

Once you do this, you can no longer re-type the name. If you spelled "Sarah" as "Sahra," you have to start over. This is why saving that backup file in the Prep phase was critical.

Now we are ready to perform surgery on the nodes.

The Technique: The "Disappearing Scissor" Trick

The logic is simple: If the end of Letter A touches the start of Letter B, there is no "jump," so there is no need to trim.

The Step-by-Step Procedure:

1. Zoom In: Do not try this at 100% view. Zoom until the letters fill your screen.
2. Select the "Select Point" Tool: (Usually the white arrow or node edit tool).
3. Identify the Gap: Look for the scissor icon between two letters (e.g., between 't' and 'e').
4. Find the Nodes:
   • Find the End Point of the first letter (usually a black square or distinct node).
   • Find the Start Point of the second letter.
5. The Drag: Click and hold the End Point. Drag it physically until it snaps onto or overlaps the Start Point of the next letter.
6. The Confirmation: The moment you release the mouse, the scissor icon should vanish.

• Sensory Check: It feels like connecting Lego bricks. Snap A to B. If the scissor icon remains, you missed the connection or grabbed the wrong node.

This creates a "travel stitch" (a run stitch) between the letters. Because the distance is now zero (or covered by the overlap), the machine just keeps sewing.

The "Safe Zone": When NOT to Remove a Trim

Novices get excited and try to remove every trim. This is dangerous. You must respect the "Float."

A "Float" is the length of thread that sits loose on top of the fabric when the needle jumps from one point to another without trimming.

The Decision Logic:

• Short Distance (1mm - 3mm): Safe to connect. The jump is so short it will barely be visible, or will be buried in the fabric nap.
• Standard Distance (Serif fonts, script text): Safe to connect. The "tails" of the letters naturally lead into each other.
• Long Distance (Block letters, "T" to "i"): DO NOT CONNECT.
  • Risk: If you connect a jump that is 10mm long, you leave a loose loop of thread on the garment. This will snag on a button, a ring, or in the wash, and ruin the embroidery.

This workflow optimization is similar to how professionals use multi hooping machine embroidery strategies. They don't just optimize the hooping; they optimize the path the machine takes. Efficiency is the sum of small savings.

Troubleshooting: "Why does it look messy?"

Sometimes, dragging the node creates a visible line that ruins the look of the letter.

The "Travel Path" Problem

If you drag the end of an "e" to the top of an "l", the software draws a straight line. If that line cuts across open white fabric, it looks like a mistake.

The Advanced Fix: You don't just have to drag straight to the start point. You can add extra nodes to "route" the travel stitch along the edge of the letter where it won't be seen, effectively hiding the travel path in the underlay of the next letter. This is manual pathing 101.

Warning: Do not create travel stitches that cross over the top of already stitched areas unless you want a visible line on your final product.

Setup Checklist: Preventing Common Errors

Before you save or export, run this mental flight check. A saved error is a sewn error.

Setup Checklist (Pre-Export):

• Visual Scan: Scroll through the whole word. Are the scissors gone only where you intended?
• Long Jumps: Did you leave scissors in place for jumps longer than 5mm?
• Pathing: Do the connection lines cross open "negative space"? If yes, Undo and re-route.
• Export: Save as .PES (or your machine format) AND save the working .PEF/PES file separately.

This disciplined approach is what separates amateurs from pros. It's the software equivalent of using a hooping station for machine embroidery—it creates a consistent, repeatable standard for quality.

Troubleshooting: Rapid Response Guide

Things go wrong. Here is your quick diagnosis table for when the video instructions don't match your screen.

The "Hidden" Variable: Hooping and Stabilization

You can digitize the perfect file, optimize every node, and set perfect compensation, but if your hooping is weak, the results will fail.

Kathleen emphasizes Pull Compensation because fabric moves. But the best way to control movement is mechanical holding power.

The Friction of Hooping

Standard plastic hoops rely on friction and screw tension. They are notorious for:

1. "Hoop Burn": Leaving shiny rings on delicate fabrics.
2. Slippage: The fabric loosens as the needle pounds it, ruining the registration (outline alignment).
3. Wrist Strain: Constant tightening of screws is physically exhausting in production runs.

This is where hooping for embroidery machine technique meets hardware. If you are struggling with "gapping" (white space between outline and fill) despite using 0.4mm Pull Comp, your issue is likely the hoop, not the software.

It acts like a loose drum skin—the needle pushes the fabric down instead of piercing it cleanly.

Decision Tree: When to Upgrade Your Tools

We have optimized your software. Now, look at your hardware. Use this decision tree to decide if you need to evolve your setup.

Scenario 1: You are getting "Hoop Burn" on polos or velvet.

• The Problem: The friction ring of standard hoops crushes the fabric pile.
• The Fix: Step 1: Use water-soluble stabilizer on top (topping) to protect the nap. Step 2: If doing volume, switch to a magnetic hoop for brother (or your specific brand). Magnetic hoops hold flat pressure rather than "pinch" pressure, virtually eliminating hoop burn.

Scenario 2: You are doing production runs (20+ shirts).

• The Problem: Manual hooping is slow and inconsistent. Your hands hurt.
• The Fix: Terms like magnetic embroidery hoop become relevant here. The "snap" mechanism saves roughly 30-40 seconds per shirt load. In a 100-shirt run, that is an hour of labor saved.

Scenario 3: Single-Needle limitations are killing profit.

• The Problem: You have optimized jumps, but the machine still stops for every color change (2 minutes per change).
• The Fix: This is the ceiling of single-needle technology. The logical step is moving to a multi-needle machine (like the SEWTECH commercial line). These machines don't just trim faster; they hold up to 15 colors, eliminating the "stop-change-thread" dance entirely.

Warning: Magnetic Safety
If you upgrade to magnetic hoops, be aware they use powerful Neodymium magnets.
* Pinch Hazard: They snap together with enough force to bruise fingers.
* Medical Safety: Keep them away from pacemakers and anyone with implanted medical devices sensitive to magnetic fields.

Final Thoughts: The Efficient Path

Optimizing your embroidery is a two-step journey.

1. Software: Use Kathleen’s node-connection technique to eliminate unnecessary stops and create a smoother flow.
2. Hardware: Ensure your stabilization and hooping (potentially with magnetic frames) provide a stable canvas for those stitches to land on.

Start with the software fix today—it costs nothing but practice. Once you master that, listen to your workflow. If the struggle moves from the screen to your wrists, you know it's time to look at the tools on your desk.

Operation Checklist (Final Quality Control):

• Stitch Test: Run the design on scrap fabric similar to your final garment.
• Tactile Check: Rub your finger over the connected spots. are they soft? If they snag your finger, the jump was too long.
• Visual Check: Hold it at arm's length. Can you see the travel line? If yes, go back to routing.
• Hoop Check: Is the fabric "drum tight" before you hit start?

Happy stitching. Keep those scissors where they belong—in your drawer, not on your screen.

FAQ

• Q: In Brother PE-Design 10, how do I make the scissor (thread trim) icons visible when editing lettering stitch paths?
  A: Force PE-Design 10 to display trim/jump data by switching the design profile to multi-needle and enabling trim viewing.
  • Open Design Settings (flower/gear icon) and set Machine Type to Multi-needle machine.
  • Set Minimum jump stitch length to 2.0 mm.
  • Go to the View tab and turn on View Thread Trimming.
  • Success check: scissor icons appear between letters where jumps exceed the threshold.
  • If it still fails: re-check that the View option is enabled and the machine type change was applied to the current design, not just a default template.
• Q: In Brother PE-Design 10, what text settings should be set BEFORE “Convert to Stitches” to prevent skinny letters and gaps on polos?
  A: Set density, under sewing, and pull compensation first, because those global text controls are hard to fix after conversion.
  • Verify Density is around 4.5–5.0 lines/mm (Kathleen uses 5.0 lines/mm).
  • Keep Under Sewing checked for lettering.
  • Set Pull Compensation to 0.3–0.4 mm (use 0.4 mm for knits/polos).
  • Success check: lettering sews solid but flexible (not cardboard-stiff) and edges don’t look “anemic.”
  • If it still fails: don’t raise density as the first move—improve stabilization/hooping and confirm pull compensation was applied before conversion.
• Q: In Brother PE-Design 10, how do I remove trims between letters using the “manual pathing” node-connection technique without changing the font text?
  A: After converting to stitches, connect the end node of one letter to the start node of the next so the jump becomes zero and the scissor disappears.
  • Convert: Text → Text tab → Convert to Stitches (save an editable backup before doing this).
  • Zoom in heavily and choose the Select Point/node edit tool.
  • Drag the End Point of Letter A onto/overlapping the Start Point of Letter B until it snaps.
  • Success check: the scissor icon between those letters vanishes immediately after releasing the node.
  • If it still fails: zoom further (often ~400%), and confirm the grabbed node is the true end node (not an internal point).
• Q: In Brother PE-Design 10 lettering, when should trims be kept because connecting letters would create unsafe long floats that snag?
  A: Keep trims on long jumps; only connect short, easily hidden moves.
  • Connect when the distance is short (about 1–3 mm) and will be buried in the fabric/nap.
  • Do not connect long gaps (example: block-letter jumps like “T” to “i”) where the float could be around 10 mm and snag.
  • Leave scissors in place for longer jumps (a practical checkpoint is anything over 5 mm in the pre-export scan).
  • Success check: rubbing a finger over connected areas feels smooth and does not catch or lift a loose thread.
  • If it still fails: undo the connection and re-route the travel stitch along an edge (add nodes) so the path stays hidden.
• Q: In Brother PE-Design 10, why does connecting nodes sometimes create a visible straight “travel line” across open fabric, and how do I hide it?
  A: The software draws a direct run path between points; hide it by routing the travel stitch along letter edges or under areas that will be covered.
  • Undo the last drag if the line crosses negative space.
  • Add intermediate nodes to “walk” the travel path along the edge of the letter where stitches won’t show.
  • Avoid routing travel stitches across the top of already-finished open areas unless a visible line is acceptable.
  • Success check: at arm’s length, the connection line is not visible as a stray stroke.
  • If it still fails: keep the trim at that location—some letter pairs simply do not have a safe hidden route.
• Q: On a single-needle home embroidery machine without an automatic thread cutter, how does PE-Design 10 trim removal help reduce manual snipping between letters?
  A: Removing unnecessary trims creates a continuous stitch path, so the machine doesn’t stop and demand frequent manual cuts.
  • Confirm in the machine manual whether the model trims only on color changes or also trims on jumps (single-needle behavior varies).
  • In PE-Design 10, connect safe short gaps so lettering runs continuously.
  • Keep trims for long jumps to prevent snag-prone floats on garments.
  • Success check: the machine stitches the word with fewer stop/beep moments and fewer manual snips between letters.
  • If it still fails: check the machine’s onboard settings for Trim Settings or Jump Stitch Trim, which may force trims regardless of the file.
• Q: What are the key safety rules for using magnetic embroidery hoops to reduce hoop burn, and who should avoid strong magnets?
  A: Magnetic hoops can reduce hoop burn by applying flatter pressure, but the magnets snap hard and must be kept away from implanted medical devices.
  • Keep fingers clear when closing; magnets can snap with enough force to bruise (pinch hazard).
  • Keep magnetic hoops away from pacemakers and implanted devices sensitive to magnetic fields.
  • Use a controlled “set and lower” motion instead of letting frames slam together.
  • Success check: hooping feels secure without crushing fabric pile, and there are no pinched fingers during loading.
  • If it still fails: add topping (water-soluble stabilizer on top) for high-nap fabrics, and slow down the handling—most injuries happen during rushed snapping.