Quilt-As-You-Go Sashing Math That Actually Works: Measure 7.75", Cut 1.25", and Keep Batting Out of the Seam

If you’ve ever stared at a stack of freshly embroidered quilt blocks and thought, “I love them… but how do I join them without turning the seams into speed bumps?”—you are in the right place.

This project represents a critical transition point where machine embroidery meets real-world quilting mechanics. You have beautiful stitched blocks on cream fabric with batting, and the goal is definition between blocks (sashing), a clean border look, and zero bulky seams.

In the video, the maker has nine floral line-art blocks finished and is planning a baby quilt using a Quilt-As-You-Go (QAYG) approach. The heart of this lesson is simple but powerful:

• Measure what the embroidery actually stitched (not what you hoped it stitched).
• Do the sashing math on paper so your seam allowances don’t steal your “pretty” width.
• Join batting scraps without sewing batting into the seam allowance.

As an educator, I will add the “shop-floor” details the video implies but doesn't explicitly say—how to keep blocks square during the initial embroidery, how to avoid “hoop burn” that ruins the loft of your batting, and how to set yourself up for faster, cleaner production if you plan to make more than one quilt.

Don’t Panic—Your QAYG Quilt Blocks Aren’t “Wrong,” They’re Just Unplanned Yet

Nine blocks done and the layout still undecided is normal. In fact, it is smart to pause here—because once you start cutting sashing strips and trimming edges, you are committing to a system.

The maker is considering rotating blocks so the floral direction changes. This is a great way to break up repetition without changing the design file. Before you lock in a layout, you must do one thing first: measure the stitched area and decide what border lines you want to keep visible.

A reality check from 20 years of experience: When you stitch embroidery on a fabric + batting “sandwich,” the physics change. The embroidery thread pulls the fabric in (pull compensation), and the batting resists compression. A 100mm design on a computer screen might stitch out at 98mm on lofty batting. This is why we measure after stitching, not before.

The “Hidden” Prep Before You Measure: Square Blocks, Calm Batting, and Clean Edges

Before you put a ruler on anything, prep the block so your measurement is honest. If the fabric is puckered or the stabilizer is crinkled, your ruler will lie to you.

In the video, the maker shows batting and stabilizer already cut for multiple blocks, and later folds back stabilizer to reveal the batting layer underneath. That is the right mindset: treat each block like an engineering unit you will be assembling.

What I’d do at the table (so your math doesn’t lie)

• Flatten the landscape: Smooth the block flat on a cutting mat. Run your hand over it—if you feel a “dome” in the center, the batting is bunched.
• Check for "Hoop Burn": If you used a standard hoop on thick batting, you might see crushed rings. Steam (don't iron!) these out now. Note: This is often why pros switch to magnetic frames for quilting blocks—they hold without crushing the loft.
• Trim jump threads: Do this now. It is much harder to trim a thread tail once it is caught in a sashing seam.

This is also where many people start thinking about consistency. If you have 20 blocks to do, a stable workflow matters more than speed. A dedicated table-height setup and repeatable hooping routine can save your wrists—especially if you are experimenting with hooping stations to ensure every floral design lands in the exact dead center of the square.

Prep Checklist (do this before any measuring)

• Press: Press the block lightly if it’s rippled (press down, lift up; do not drag the iron).
• Inspect: Confirm batting is flat and not overlapped or bunched under the fabric.
• Clear: Remove obvious thread tails so they don’t distort the ruler or get sewn into seams.
• Define: Identify the stitched “frame” lines you want to keep visible.
• Record: Keep a notepad and pen nearby—do not trust “head math.”

Measure the Embroidery Design Width at 7.75" (Not the Fabric Cut Size)

Here is the key measurement from the video: the stitched design area measures 7.75 inches (7 and 3/4) across the visible embroidery lines.

The maker aligns a clear quilt ruler over the red line-work embroidery and points out the 7.75" mark. This measurement—the actual embroidery—must drive your trimming and sashing plan. Do not rely on the original fabric square size (e.g., "I cut an 8-inch square").

Why this matters (the part that bites people later)

Embroidery designs often include outlines that look like “basting” but are actually part of the final aesthetic. In the video, the maker notes a double frame effect and mentions the final stitch is a bean stitch (a triple-shaded run) around the block.

The Expert Rule: Decide which stitched border is “sacred.” If you trim too aggressively to a line you assume is disposable, you cut away the frame that holds the visual design together.

The Sashing Math on Paper: Cut 1.25" Strips to Get a 0.75" Finished Reveal

This is the moment where the video becomes gold: the maker stops guessing and writes the math down. Many beginners skip this and end up with mismatched intersections.

The plan shown is:

• There is about 1.75 inches of batting gap available between blocks to work with.
• The floral fabric sashing strips will be cut at 1.25 inches.
• With 1/4" seam allowances on both sides, a 1.25" cut strip finishes at 0.75 inches visible.
  

That 0.75" reveal is a sweet spot for line-art blocks: it separates the frames visually without overpowering the delicate embroidery.

Setup Checklist (so your sashing stays consistent)

• Verify: Confirm your stitched design width is 7.75" on multiple blocks (check at least 3).
• Decision: Decide definitively whether you are trimming fabric past the stitched edge or flush with it.
• Propotype: Cut a few test strips at 1.25" and fold them between two blocks to preview the look visually.
• Calibrate: Keep seam allowance strictly at 1/4"—consider using a magnetic seam guide or a 1/4" foot.
  
  
  

A small but important expert note on fabric behavior

When you add sashing, you are adding a new grain direction and a new stretch behavior. Even quilting cotton can “give.” If your blocks are embroidered on batting, they have structure; your sashing strips are just single-layer fabric.

Sensory Check: When feeding the sashing strip into the machine, hold it gently like a live bird. Do not pull. Let the feed dogs do the work. If you pull, the sashing will narrow, and your beautiful 0.75" reveal will shrink to 0.60" in the middle.

Keep Batting Out of the Seam Allowance—That’s How You Avoid Bulky Ridges

The video gives a clear warning: do not sew batting into the seam allowance when joining QAYG blocks.

If you sew batting into the seam, you double the thickness at every join. This creates “speed bumps” that make the quilt stiff, drape poorly, and frustrate you when you try to bind the edges later.

Warning: Rotary cutters are unforgiving. When trimming batting away from seam allowances, keep your fingers well clear of the ruler edge. Slow down when trimming near stitched embroidery—nicking a thread here means hours of repair work.

This is also where hooping choices quietly affect your results. Thick “sandwich” hooping can distort the block edges if you use standard inner/outer rings. If you routinely embroider through batting, magnetic embroidery hoops are a practical upgrade path. They hold the sandwich firmly without the "pinch distortion" of traditional hoops, leaving your edges flat and ready for this exact joining process.

Join Batting Scraps with Fusible Netting Tape (Butt-Join, Don’t Overlap)

Instead of sewing batting together, the maker demonstrates the cleanest method: butt the batting edges together and fuse them with a strip of fusible netting tape.

The technique nuance is critical:

• The batting edges should meet perfectly flat.
• There should be no overlap (mountain) and no gap (valley).
• The fusible tape bridges the joint.
  

Why butt-joining works better than overlapping

Overlapping creates a ridge. In a quilt top with multiple joins, those ridges stack up. Butt-joining keeps the thickness consistent, which is exactly what you want when your quilt is built from many embroidered blocks.

Protect your tools while fusing

The video shows using a non-stick pressing sheet (often Teflon or silicone) to protect the iron and wool mat.

Warning (Magnet Safety): If you use high-strength magnetic frames in your sewing space to manage these layers, or use magnetic seam guides, keep them away from pacemakers and medical implants. Store them with the spacers inserted to prevent pinching fingers.

Operation Checklist (the clean fuse every time)

• Align: Lay batting edges together edge-to-edge (check with your fingernail; it should feel flush).
• Bridge: Place fusible netting tape centered exactly over the join line.
• Protect: Use a non-stick pressing sheet between the sticky tape and your iron soleplate.
• Press: Apply steady downward pressure—don’t “scrub” the iron back and forth, or you will shift the gap.
• Cool: Let it cool flat for 10 seconds before moving.

A Simple Decision Tree: Fabric + Batting + Stabilizer Choices for Embroidered QAYG Blocks

The video uses cream cotton fabric with batting and stabilizer, and shows folding back stabilizer to inspect layers. Since every machine and quilt sandwich behaves a little differently, here is a practical decision tree you can use to avoid disaster.

Decision Tree (Start Here):

1. Is your block embroidered on fabric + batting already?
   • Yes: Focus on keeping joins thin. Avoid sewing batting into seam allowances. Use fusible butt-joins.
   • No (Fabric only): You will add batting later. Ensure your fabric is stabilized enough to support the stitches without puckering before assembly.
2. Is your fabric stable quilting cotton or something stretchy?
   • Stable Cotton: Standard cut-away or tear-away stabilizer often works. Focus on precise trimming.
   • Stretchy/Loose Weave: You need a solid Cut-Away stabilizer stuck to the back. Use a embroidery hooping station to ensure you don't stretch the fabric while hooping, or your square block will turn into a rhombus when unhooped.
3. Are you making one quilt or repeating this workflow?
   • One Quilt: Keep it simple. Use ruler measurements and paper math.
   • Production Mindset: Standardize. Create cut lists, fix strip widths, and lock in your hooping method.

The “Why” Behind the Math: Seam Allowances Steal Width, and Batting Steals Flatness

Let’s translate the video’s numbers into the principle you will use forever:

• A strip cut at 1.25" is not a strip that shows 1.25".
• Two seam allowances at 1/4" each remove 1/2" total from the width.
• So: 1.25" (cut) − 0.50" (seams) = 0.75" finished sashing.

That is why writing it down matters. When students tell me “my sashing looks skinnier than planned,” it is almost always because their 1/4" seam allowance drifted to 3/8", or they forgot that seam allowances are "paid" twice (once on each side).

The Physics of Batting: Batting adds "loft" (air). When you hoop it, you compress that air. When you unhoop it, it expands. If you use traditional hoops, you might see "hoop burn" where the fibers were crushed permanently. This is why many quilters eventually try magnetic hoops for embroidery machines—the magnets hold the sandwich securely spread out, but without the crushing force of a thumbscrew clamp.

Troubleshooting the Two Problems That Ruin QAYG Joins: Bulk and “Wavy” Sashing

The video includes one explicit troubleshooting point—bulk in seams caused by sewing batting into seam allowances. Here are the most common symptoms I see in studios, mapped to fixes.

The Upgrade Path: When Better Hooping and Faster Workflow Start Paying You Back

This video covers "planning and prep," but it is also a preview of what happens when you scale up.

• More blocks = More hooping.
• More hooping = More fatigue and more risk of "hoop burn."
• More joins = More chances for bulk if your batting strategy isn't clean.

If you are doing occasional quilts, your current setup is fine—just be disciplined. However, if you are doing embroidered quilts regularly (or selling them), consider a tool upgrade path based on your specific pain point:

1. Pain: Hooping thick quilt sandwiches is slow or leaves marks.
   • Solution: magnetic embroidery hoop options reduce clamp pressure marks and speed up the loading of thick layers significantly.
2. Pain: Alignment is inconsistent across 20+ blocks.
   • Solution: A dedicated hooping station for machine embroidery ensures every block is hooped at the exact same coordinate, saving you from trimming crooked blocks later.
3. Pain: You are spending all day changing threads.
   • Solution: High-volume production usually points toward multi-needle machines (like SEWTECH-style upgrades), which allow you to set up all colors at once and walk away while the block finishes.

What You Should Do Next (So This Quilt Doesn’t Stall Out)

Based on the video’s workflow, here is your clean next move to get from "pile of blocks" to "finished quilt top":

1. Layout: Pick a layout (rotate blocks for variety if desired).
2. Measure: Confirm the stitched measurement (7.75") on at least three blocks.
3. Test: Cut a few 1.25" floral strips and do a “false fold” preview.
4. Rule: Commit to the QAYG rule: Batting stays out of seam allowances.
5. Fuse: When you need to extend batting, butt-join with fusible netting tape and protect your iron.

If you do those five things, the rest of the quilt becomes straightforward assembly rather than guesswork.

And yes—your math is probably “mathing” just fine. The difference between a frustrating QAYG quilt and a satisfying one is rarely talent. It is almost always measurement discipline, seam allowance consistency, and refusing to sew batting where it doesn’t belong.

FAQ

• Q: How do I measure the finished embroidery size on a quilt block stitched on cotton fabric + batting before cutting sashing for a QAYG baby quilt?
  A: Measure the stitched border lines, not the original fabric square size, and base all cutting math on that “real stitch-out” number.
  • Flatten the block on a cutting mat before measuring so puckers don’t fool the ruler.
  • Align a clear quilting ruler to the visible stitched frame lines you want to keep (treat that border as “sacred”).
  • Record the stitched width and confirm the same measurement on at least 3 blocks before committing to trimming and sashing cuts.
  • Success check: The ruler reading matches across multiple blocks and the stitched frame looks square (not skewed) when the block lies flat.
  • If it still fails… Steam (don’t iron) to relax hoop marks and re-check; if the block is distorted, revisit hooping method for future blocks.
• Q: How do I calculate QAYG sashing strip cut width to get a 0.75-inch finished reveal using a 1/4-inch seam allowance on both sides?
  A: Cut sashing at 1.25 inches to finish at 0.75 inches when sewing with true 1/4-inch seam allowances on both sides.
  • Write the math: 1.25" (cut) − 0.50" (two 1/4" seams) = 0.75" (finished reveal).
  • Prototype with a few test strips and “false fold” them between two embroidered blocks to preview spacing before sewing.
  • Calibrate seam allowance to stay at 1/4" consistently (a 1/4" foot or seam guide can help).
  • Success check: After stitching, the visible sashing measures about 0.75" from seam to seam and looks even end-to-end.
  • If it still fails… Stop and measure your actual seam allowance; drifting wider than 1/4" is the most common reason the reveal shrinks.
• Q: How do I stop bulky ridges when joining Quilt-As-You-Go embroidered blocks with batting already attached?
  A: Keep batting out of the seam allowance so the seam joins fabric-to-fabric, not fabric-to-batting.
  • Peel back or trim batting away from the seam allowance area before sewing the joining seam.
  • Join blocks so only the top fabrics (and any planned sashing) are in the seam; manage batting separately.
  • Avoid overlapping batting at joins; plan for thin, flat joins from the start.
  • Success check: The join feels flat when you run fingertips across it—no “speed bump” ridge.
  • If it still fails… Check whether batting was accidentally stitched into the seam; if yes, that seam usually must be re-sewn after removing batting from the allowance.
• Q: How do I fix wavy or rippled sashing when sewing sashing strips between embroidered quilt blocks?
  A: Do not stretch the sashing strip while stitching—let the feed dogs move the fabric at their own pace.
  • Hold the strip gently and guide it straight; avoid pulling from front or back of the presser foot.
  • Pin generously to control grain shift, especially because embroidered blocks are structured while sashing is single-layer fabric.
  • Keep the seam allowance consistent so the strip does not narrow unpredictably through the seam.
  • Success check: The sashing lies flat with no ripples, and the reveal width stays consistent through the middle (not just at the ends).
  • If it still fails… Re-check handling pressure and re-test with a short sample seam before sewing the full row.
• Q: How do I join batting scraps between QAYG blocks using fusible netting tape without creating a ridge?
  A: Butt-join the batting edges (no overlap, no gap) and fuse across the seam with fusible netting tape using a pressing sheet.
  • Align batting edges perfectly edge-to-edge so the join feels flush under a fingernail.
  • Center fusible netting tape directly over the join line to bridge both sides evenly.
  • Press straight down with a protected iron (use a non-stick pressing sheet); avoid scrubbing the iron side-to-side.
  • Success check: The batting join feels smooth and level with no “mountain” ridge or “valley” dip when you rub across it.
  • If it still fails… Re-open the join and re-align; overlap is the usual cause of a ridge, and a visible gap is the usual cause of a weak spot.
• Q: What is the safest way to trim batting near embroidered stitch lines when preparing QAYG seam allowances with a rotary cutter?
  A: Slow down and keep hands well clear of the ruler edge; trimming too fast near embroidery can nick threads or cause injury.
  • Stabilize the block flat before cutting so the ruler does not rock on loft.
  • Position fingers on top of the ruler (not near the cutting edge) and make controlled, short cuts.
  • Avoid cutting into stitched borders you plan to keep visible; decide the “keep” line before trimming.
  • Success check: Batting is removed cleanly from the seam allowance area while embroidery threads remain intact and un-nicked.
  • If it still fails… Stop trimming and reassess the cut line; a single nicked embroidery thread can unravel and is much harder to fix after assembly.
• Q: What magnetic tool safety rules should be followed when using high-strength magnetic embroidery hoops or magnetic seam guides around QAYG quilting work?
  A: Keep high-strength magnets away from pacemakers/medical implants and store magnetic frames with spacers to prevent pinched fingers.
  • Keep magnets separated and controlled on the work surface; do not let them snap together near hands.
  • Store magnetic hoops/frames with spacers inserted so they do not clamp unexpectedly.
  • Keep magnetic tools away from sensitive medical devices and follow the device manufacturer’s guidance.
  • Success check: Magnets are handled without sudden snapping, and hands/fingers stay clear of pinch points during setup and storage.
  • If it still fails… Move magnetic tools out of the sewing area and switch to non-magnetic guides; safety overrides convenience.
• Q: When QAYG embroidered quilt blocks keep showing hoop burn, inconsistent block sizing, or slow hooping on thick fabric + batting, what is the best upgrade path: technique changes, magnetic hoops, or a multi-needle machine?
  A: Use a tiered approach: optimize measuring/handling first, then consider magnetic hoops for thick “sandwich” hooping, and only then consider a multi-needle machine for production volume.
  • Level 1 (Technique): Measure the stitched area after embroidery, standardize 1/4" seams, and keep batting out of seam allowances.
  • Level 2 (Tool): If thick batting is getting crushed or hooping is slow, magnetic hoops often reduce clamp-pressure marks and speed loading (always follow machine guidance).
  • Level 3 (Capacity): If thread changes and repeat blocks dominate the day, a multi-needle machine may fit a production workflow.
  • Success check: Blocks remain flatter with fewer hoop marks, stitched measurements repeat reliably across multiple blocks, and assembly time drops without adding bulk.
  • If it still fails… Treat it as a workflow issue: lock a single hooping method and measurement standard first, then upgrade one variable at a time.