Quilt-As-You-Go Wreath Blocks on a Janome Memory Craft 10000: Float the Layers, Stitch at the Top, and Trim Like a Pro

Mastering the "Float & Shift" Technique on the Janome MC10000: A Zero-Waste QAYG Guide

If you’ve ever looked at a Quilt-As-You-Go (QAYG) embroidery block and thought, “That’s gorgeous… but I’m not wasting half a strip of fabric to get it,” you are standing at the threshold of production thinking.

Sharyn’s method on the classic Janome Memory Craft 10000 creates what I call a "Continuous Yield Workflow." By hooping only the backing, floating the expensive layers, and manipulating the digital screen to align the design at the very top, you transform a standard hobby machine into a batch-processing unit.

However, floating fabric is an "unstable state." Without the friction of the hoop holding your top fabric, you rely entirely on physics and preparation to prevent puckering.

This guide breaks down Sharyn’s method with the precision of a technician, ensuring your first block looks as good as your fiftieth.

The Calm-Down Moment: Your Janome Memory Craft 10000 Isn’t “Off-Center”—You’re Just Leaving Money on the Table

Older embroidery machines (including the sturdy Janome MC10000) will happily stitch a design in the default center of the hoop. That is not a flaw; it is a safety feature.

The problem arises when you accept that default. If you stitch a 5-inch block in the center of a 7-inch hoop, you leave a useless margin of fabric above it. When working with long strips for quilting, that margin is pure waste.

Sharyn’s workflow solves this by overriding the default: top-align the design so the stitching starts immediately below your previous cut.

If you have been searching for a reliable floating embroidery hoop technique that yields crisp, square blocks without sacrificing yardage, this "Shift & Float" method is the industry standard.

The “Hidden” Prep That Prevents Puckers: Physics of the Sandwich

To the naked eye, Sharyn is just stacking fabric. To an engineer, she is managing shear force.

She uses:

1. Backing fabric (batik) locked in the hoop (Right Side Down).
2. Wadding/Batting floated on top.
3. Top fabric (aqua batik) floated on top (Right Side Up).

The Risk: The hoop only grips layer #1. Layers #2 and #3 are free-floating. As the pantograph (the embroidery arm) jerks the hoop at 400-600 stitches per minute, inertia wants to make the top layers slide. If they slide, you get "ghost outlines" or puckers.

The Fix: You must create enough surface friction between layers that they behave like a single unit until the machine stitches the "Tack-Down Square."

Prep Checklist (Do this **Before** you touch the screen)

• Hoop Verification: Confirm you are using the Janome Hoop B type (140×200 mm). Check the inner ring screw—it should be tight enough that you feel resistance when locking.
• Consumable Check: Do you have temporary spray adhesive? (Optional but recommended for beginners). A light mist on the batting helps secure the top fabric.
• The Sharpness Test: Ensure your rotary cutter blade is fresh. A dull blade requires pressure that distorts fabric grain, making "straight" strips crooked before you even start.
• Material Prep: Cut your batting and top fabric into long, continuous strips matching the width of your block plus a safety margin (approx. 6.5" for a 5.5" finished block).
• Thread Selection: Sharyn uses black embroidery thread for contrast. For beginners, I recommend a thread color that matches your fabric slightly better to hide microscopic tension errors while learning.

Like a Drum: Hooping the Backing Fabric Correctly

Sharyn hoops the backing right side down and places it high in the hoop—meaning she minimizes the excess poking out of the top of the hoop.

Sensory Check - The "Drum Skin" Rule: When you tighten the hoop screw and lock it, tap the backing fabric. It should sound like a dull thud or a drum. If it ripples when you poke it, it is too loose. If you see the weave of the fabric distorting into hour-glass shapes, it is too tight. Find the "Goldilocks" zone where it is taut but undistorted.

Why High Placement Matters: Because we are going to tell the machine to stitch at the top of the hoop, the backing material needs to be there to receive it. If you hoop the backing centrally, your top-aligned needle will strike air (or the plastic hoop edge).

Warning: Mechanical Safety. Keep fingers, loose sleeves, and long hair away from the needle area while the machine is running. The machine generally moves the hoop before the needle descends, but rapid jumps can catch fingers resting on the frame. Pause the machine before smoothing fabric near the presser foot.

Floating the Sandwich: Stopping the "First 20 Seconds" Disaster

Sharyn floats the batting and top fabric over the hooped backing, aligning them close to the hoop edges and—crucially—pushing them up to the top edge to reduce waste.

The first 20 seconds of stitching (the tack-down square) are the most dangerous. This is where "mystery folds" appear.

Why Folds Happen:

• The "Belly" Effect: The fabric isn't flat; it bubbles up, catches on the presser foot toe, and gets shoved into a pleat.
• Gravity Drag: The heavy strip hanging off the machine pulls the fabric sideways as the hoop moves.

The "Hands-On" Protocol: Unlike standard embroidery where we say "don't touch," floating requires you to be a human stabilizer. Gently support the weight of the fabric strip with your left hand (keeping it flat on the table/bed) so the hoop can move freely without dragging the heavy fabric tail.

Digital Alignment: Moving Design "017" to the Zero-Waste Zone

On the Janome MC10000 screen, the workflow shifts from physical to digital:

1. Select the design (She uses folder design 017).
2. Enter Edit mode.
3. Use the arrow keys to move the design to the very top limit of the virtual hoop boundary.

The Math of the Fit: Sharyn’s wreath design preview shows 139×139 mm. The Hoop B limit is 140 mm wide.

• Safety Margin: You have 0.5mm on either side. This is extremely tight.
• Beginner Tip: If you are new to this, do a "Trace" function if your machine allows it, to ensure the needle won't hit the plastic hoop.

Setup Checklist (The "Pre-Flight" Confirmation)

• Screen Position: Visually confirm the design icon is touching the top boundary of the grid on the LCD screen.
• Layer Order: Backing (Face Down) -> Batting -> Top (Face Up).
• Clearance: Ensure the fabric strip hanging off the machine is not bunched up against the machine arm or wall.
• Bobbin Check: Open the slide plate. Do you have at least 50% bobbin thread left? Running out mid-block is a nightmare with QAYG.
• Thread Tails: Pull the top thread and bobbin thread up and hold them to the side. (Crucial for machines without auto-cutters).

The "Babysit" Phase: Surviving the Tack-Down Square

Sharyn calls out a reality of the Janome MC10000: It lacks the modern "jump stitch trim" and "auto tie-off" features of newer SEWTECH or high-end industrial machines. This means you must manually manage the start.

The "Hold and Watch" Technique:

1. Press Start.
2. Hold the Tails: Gently hold the thread tails for the first 3-5 stitches until they are anchored. If you don't, the top thread gets sucked under and creates a "bird's nest" of tangles on the back.
3. Scan the Perimeter: Watch the needle travel the perimeter square. If you see the foot pushing a "wave" of fabric, pause immediately and smooth it out.

Sharyn notes she goes "off a bit to the edge." In QAYG, the tack-down line is eventually hidden in the seam allowance, so structural integrity is more important than visual perfection.

The Physics of the Tack-Down

This square is the most important part of the block. It performs Mechanical Bonding. It stitches the three slippery layers together, effectively turning them into a single piece of quilted fabric. Until this square is closed, you cannot relax.

The Feather Wreath: When to Let Go

Once the square is complete, the "danger zone" is over. Sharyn steps back.

Sensory Diagnostics - Listen to Your Machine: While the wreath stitches, do not just watch—listen.

• Good Sound: A rhythmic, steady chug-chug-chug.
• Bad Sound: A sharp slap (tension too loose), a grinding noise (needle hitting metal), or a thud-thud (needle struggling to penetrate dense batting).

If the sound changes, Stop. It is better to re-thread than to dig out a broken needle.

Trimming: The "Less Than 1/4 Inch" Rule

After unhooping, the block moves to the cutting mat. Sharyn uses an Omnigrid ruler and a rotary cutter.

The Golden Ratio: Align the ruler slightly less than 1/4 inch outside the stitched tack-down line.

• Why? Standard quilting seams are 1/4 inch. If you trim exactly at 1/4 inch, your joining stitches might land right on top of your embroidery tack-down line, creating bulk. By trimming slightly less (e.g., a "scant" 1/4 inch), you ensure the embroidery stay-stitching hides safely inside the seam allowance.

Warning: Rotary Cutter Safety. Rotary blades are razor-sharp. Always cut away from your body. When cutting over thick embroidered areas (like the knots at the start/stop), the blade can skip or jump. apply firm, downward pressure, and always close the blade guard immediately after the cut.

Operation Checklist (The Loop)

• Start: Hold tails, watch the first corner.
• Middle: Hands off. Listen for sound changes.
• End: Unhoop gently. Do not yank the fabric.
• Trim: Use the stitch line as your reference, not the raw edge of the fabric.
• Reset: Retighten the hoop screw if it loosened during the stitch-out (common with plastic hoops).

Decision Tree: Customizing for Fabric Types

Not all "sandwiches" are created equal. Use this logic flow to adjust Sharyn's method for your materials:

1. Is your top fabric stable (e.g., Batik, Quilting Cotton)?

• YES: Proceed with Sharyn's standard float method.
• NO (It's T-shirt knit / Satin): You need Iron-on Fusible Stabilizer on the back of the top fabric before floating. Floating unstabilized knit guarantees distortion.

2. Are you producing 1 block or 50 blocks?

• 1 Block: Plastic hoop is fine.
• 50 Blocks: Plastic hoops will fatigue your wrists and loose tension over time. Consider upgrading to magnetic tools (see below).

3. Is your batting "High Loft" (Puffy)?

• YES: Use a Water Soluble Topping (Solvy). The presser foot can get caught in puffy batting fibers. The topping acts as a glide shield.
• NO: Standard method applies.

Troubleshooting: The "Why Did That Happen?" Guide

Even with perfect prep, things go wrong. Here is how to diagnose the two most common failures in this specific workflow.

1. Symptom: The "Runway" Gap

The Issue: You finish the block and realize there is a 1-inch gap between the stitching and the top edge of your fabric strip. You wasted fabric.

• Likely Cause: You forgot to move the design to the top of the screen (Left it centered).
• Quick Fix: There is no fix for the wasted fabric. Reset the machine screen immediately so the next block is correct.

2. Symptom: The "Bird's Nest"

The Issue: A giant wad of thread tangles form under the fabric at the very first stitch.

• Likely Cause: You did not hold the thread tails on the non-cutting Janome MC10000. The loose end was pulled down into the bobbin case.
• Quick Fix: Stop. Cut the mess carefully. Re-thread. Hold the tails for the first 3 seconds next time.

Leveling Up: When to Upgrade Your Tools for Production

Sharyn demonstrates that you can do professional work with a friction hoop and patience. However, if you plan to make Quilt-As-You-Go blocks a regular part of your business or serious hobby, the "Hooping Bottleneck" becomes your enemy.

Here is the professional upgrade path:

Scenario: The "Hoop Burn" & Hand Pain Struggle

If you are repeatedly forcing a plastic hoop over thick batting and stiff batik, you are fighting physics. This causes:

1. Hoop Burn: Permanent creases in the fabric.
2. Wrist Strain: From tightening screws 50 times a day.

The Solution: Many professionals switch to magnetic embroidery hoops. These use powerful magnets to snap the sandwich together instantly. They automatically adjust to the thickness of your quilt sandwich without you needing to turn a screw, completely eliminating hoop burn on delicate batiks.

Warning: Magnetic Safety. Industrial-strength magnetic hoops are not fridge magnets. They can pinch fingers severely. Keep them away from pacemakers, ICDs, and magnetic storage media (credit cards/hard drives).

Scenario: The Positioning Drift

When floating "by eye," it is easy for your strip to drift 1/4 inch sideways, making your blocks uneven. The Solution: Incorporating a magnetic hooping station or a specialized hooping station for embroidery gives you a fixed jig. You slide your hoop in, align your fabric to pre-set markers, and clamp it. This guarantees that Block #1 aligns exactly like Block #50.

Scenario: Speed & Scale

If you find yourself waiting impatiently for the single-needle machine to finish a color change or a trim, your skill has outgrown your tool. The Solution: This is where SEWTECH multi-needle embroidery machines come into play. They offer huge speed advantages, automatic jumps-stitch trimming (solving the "bird's nest" issue forever), and larger field sizes that can handle bigger quilt blocks in a single pass.

Compatibility Check

Before buying accessories, always verify the mounting bracket type. If you have a specific janome embroidery machine, ensure the magnetic embroidery frame you choose is compatible with your specific carriage arm width.

The Final Output: Repeatable Rhythm

Sharyn’s method is brilliant because it is repeatable.

1. Prep: Strip cut, fresh blade.
2. Setup: Hoop backing high, float sandwich, align top on screen.
3. Operation: Hold tails, babysit the square, let it fly.
4. Finish: Trim scant 1/4".

Master the friction, respect the physics of floating, and you will produce quilt blocks that look like they came off a factory line—with zero wasted fabric.

FAQ

• Q: How can Janome Memory Craft 10000 owners prevent puckers when using the float-and-shift QAYG method with Hoop B (140×200 mm)?
  A: Increase friction and control the fabric tail until the tack-down square locks the layers together—this is common with floating.
  • Lightly mist temporary spray adhesive on the batting (optional, especially helpful for beginners).
  • Push batting and top fabric fully up to the top edge before starting, and keep the stack flat.
  • Support the hanging strip with one hand so hoop movement does not drag the layers sideways.
  • Success check: After the tack-down square finishes, the three layers behave like one piece with no “ghost outline” shifting.
  • If it still fails: Pause at the first sign of a wave/pleat, smooth the layers, and restart—do not let the square continue over a fold.
• Q: What is the correct way to hoop backing fabric on a Janome Memory Craft 10000 for top-aligned stitching in Janome Hoop B (140×200 mm)?
  A: Hoop only the backing fabric right-side down, and place the backing high in the hoop so the top-aligned design stitches into fabric, not air.
  • Tighten the inner ring screw until there is firm resistance when locking the hoop.
  • Position the backing “high” so minimal fabric extends above the hoop’s top edge.
  • Tap-test the hooped backing before stitching.
  • Success check: The backing feels drum-taut (a dull thud when tapped) without weave distortion or hour-glass stretching.
  • If it still fails: If ripples appear, re-hoop tighter; if the weave distorts, re-hoop slightly looser.
• Q: How do Janome Memory Craft 10000 users stop a bird’s nest at the first stitch when the machine has no auto cutter/auto tie-off?
  A: Hold both top and bobbin thread tails for the first 3–5 stitches so the tails cannot get sucked into the bobbin area.
  • Pull the top thread and bobbin thread up and to the side before pressing Start.
  • Hold the tails gently until the first few stitches anchor them.
  • Stop immediately if tangles start forming underneath, then cut out the mess and re-thread.
  • Success check: The first perimeter stitches look flat underneath with no wad of thread forming at the start point.
  • If it still fails: Re-thread completely and confirm the bobbin has enough thread to finish the block.
• Q: Why do Janome Memory Craft 10000 QAYG blocks still have a “runway gap” above the stitched design when using the shift-and-float method?
  A: The design was left centered on the Janome MC10000 screen instead of being moved to the top boundary before stitching.
  • Enter Edit mode and use the arrow keys to move the design icon to the very top limit of the virtual hoop.
  • Visually confirm the design icon is touching the top boundary grid line on the LCD.
  • Run a trace/check function if available when the fit is extremely tight.
  • Success check: The next block begins stitching immediately below the previous cut with minimal wasted margin at the top.
  • If it still fails: Reconfirm Hoop B is installed and the backing fabric is hooped high enough to catch the top-aligned stitches.
• Q: What safety steps should Janome Memory Craft 10000 operators follow when smoothing floated fabric near the needle during the first 20 seconds?
  A: Pause the Janome MC10000 before hands go near the presser foot because rapid hoop jumps can catch fingers or fabric.
  • Keep fingers, sleeves, and hair clear of the needle area during stitching.
  • Use the machine pause/stop function before smoothing or repositioning any floated layer.
  • Support the fabric strip on the table/bed rather than reaching under the moving area.
  • Success check: The tack-down square completes with no finger contact near the needle and no sudden fabric snags under the presser foot.
  • If it still fails: Re-stage the fabric tail so it is not pulling, then restart while watching the first corner closely.
• Q: What is the safest trimming guideline after stitching a Janome Memory Craft 10000 QAYG tack-down square to avoid bulky seams?
  A: Trim slightly less than 1/4 inch outside the tack-down stitch line so the tack-down stays inside the quilting seam allowance.
  • Use the stitched tack-down line—not the raw fabric edge—as the trimming reference.
  • Apply firm downward pressure when cutting over denser start/stop areas to prevent blade skip.
  • Close the rotary cutter guard immediately after each cut.
  • Success check: The tack-down line disappears into the seam allowance during joining, without seam bulk stacking on the embroidery line.
  • If it still fails: Re-check ruler alignment and trim based on the stitch line even if the raw strip edge looks uneven.
• Q: When should Janome Memory Craft 10000 QAYG users upgrade from a plastic screw hoop to a magnetic embroidery hoop, a hooping station, or a multi-needle machine for production work?
  A: Upgrade when hooping becomes the bottleneck—start with technique tweaks, then magnetic tools for consistency, then multi-needle capacity if speed limits production.
  • Level 1 (technique): Reduce drift by supporting the fabric tail and babysitting only the tack-down square.
  • Level 2 (tool): Move to a magnetic hoop if plastic hooping causes hoop burn, hand pain, or repeated screw-tightening fatigue; add a hooping station if alignment drift affects block-to-block consistency.
  • Level 3 (capacity): Consider a multi-needle machine when manual thread management and slow color changes limit throughput.
  • Success check: Block #1 and Block #50 align consistently with less re-hooping stress and fewer start-up tangles.
  • If it still fails: Verify accessory compatibility with the Janome MC10000 mounting/bracket style before purchasing.