Stop the “Out of Memory” Pop-Up on Your Embroidery Machine: The DST Swap That Saves the Stitch-Out

That “Out of Memory—Delete Stuff” message can feel like a punch in the gut—especially when you’ve already promised a gift, booked a class, or you’re mid-production and the clock is ticking. You can practically hear your heart rate sync with the machine's warning beep.

Here’s the calm truth from the technician’s bench: in many cases, it’s not your embroidery machine failing or running out of actual space. It’s the specific file you’re trying to load.

In the video, Mike shares a simple workaround that has saved more stitch-outs (and more customer deadlines) than most people realize: stop deleting things and switch file formats—use the DST version instead of the PES version.

The “Out of Memory” Message on an Embroidery Machine Isn’t Always About Storage—It’s Often the File

When your machine flashes an “Out of Memory” or “Delete Stuff” style message, the instinct is to start purging designs from the machine or the USB stick. Mike’s point is blunt and correct: deleting files won’t solve it if the active design file is too complex for the machine to process.

What’s happening (in plain shop language): Some vendor designs—especially in PES format—contain massive amounts of metadata (hoop information, color palettes, thumbnail data). Your machine acts like a funnel; if you pour too much data in at once, it spills over. The machine isn’t “small” or “old”; it’s just being asked to interpret a heavier set of instructions than its buffer can comfortably handle.

If you’re the person watching a rerun because you’re troubleshooting after-hours, you’re exactly who this tip is for.

Warning: Before you start poking around your machine or trimming anything near the needle area, power down if you need to reach into tight spaces. Needles, thread cutters, and small snips can turn a rushed fix into a real injury.

The Hidden Prep Pros Do First: Check the USB Stick for a DST Version Before You Delete Anything

Mike’s workaround starts with one habit: treat the design source (USB/CD/download folder) as your “truth,” not what’s already loaded on the machine.

If your vendor provided multiple formats, you likely already have the solution.

What you’re looking for

• A folder on the USB stick (or other source media) that contains the same design in different formats.
• A DST (Tajima) version of the design.
• The problematic version is often PES (as described in the video).

If you’re building a reliable workflow, this is also where you label files clearly. If you are already investing in a smoother production setup—especially when hooping is the bottleneck—this is where tools like hooping stations start paying for themselves. You stop wasting time reloading, rehooping, and re-running jobs that fail at the import stage because your physical prep is solid.

Prep Checklist (do this before you touch the machine screen)

• Verify the Error: Confirm the message appears only when loading this specific design.
• Source Check: Locate the original design source (USB stick/Computer).
• Format Audit: Check if a DST version exists alongside the PES.
• Mental Reset: Decide now: you will not “delete stuff” as your first move.

The DST Swap: Import the DST File to Clear the “Delete Stuff” Error Without Guesswork

Mike’s fix is refreshingly direct and relies on the "dumber is better" principle of data.

1) Go back to the source media (the USB stick in the video). 2) Navigate to the design files. 3) Select the DST version of the design. 4) Import/load the DST into your machine.

Expected outcome: The design loads normally, and you can stitch.

Expert Note: DST files do not hold color information like PES files do. Your screen might show the design in weird colors (like neon green and brown). Do not panic. This is normal. The stitch coordinates are correct; just follow your thread color chart manually.

Checkpoints (so you know you’re on the right track)

• Checkpoint A: You can see both PES and DST versions available on your computer/stick.
• Checkpoint B: The machine accepts the DST file without throwing the memory warning.
• Checkpoint C: You’re able to proceed to stitch setup (even if the screen colors look wrong).

If you’re the kind of embroiderer who keeps a “clean” machine by deleting designs regularly, keep doing that for organization—but don’t expect it to fix a file that’s simply too demanding.

And if you’re shopping designs from multiple vendors, this is one reason I like to keep a consistent file-handling routine for my machine embroidery hoops projects: the physical hooping is only half the battle; reliable file data is the other half.

Why DST Often Loads When PES Won’t (and How to Avoid the Same Headache Next Time)

The video frames it clearly: the PES file may be using advanced digitizing features that push the machine’s memory/processing too hard, while the DST version is lighter for the machine to interpret.

From a technician’s perspective, here’s the physics of the file formats:

• PES (The "Smart" File): Contains stitch commands + hoop info + color palettes + thumbnail images. It's heavy.
• DST (The "Raw" File): Contains only X/Y coordinates (Stop, Go, Move). It is efficient and universally readable by almost any commercial machine.

Switching to DST isn't a "hack"—it's an industry standard.

To prevent repeat problems, I recommend a “two-copy” habit:

• Keep the vendor’s original folder untouched.
• Keep a working folder where you only copy the formats you actually use.

That way, when you hit a wall, you can quickly go back and grab the DST without hunting.

Kimberbell “Deck the Palms” Spark Event Projects: What to Watch Before You Stitch the Cinch Bag Fringe

The host previews the Kimberbell “Deck the Palms” Spark Event projects, including a cinch bag design that reads “Jingle Jingle Let’s Flamingle.” One detail matters more than beginners expect: the scarf area includes fringe work that needs trimming and fluffing after stitching.

This is where people accidentally ruin a great stitch-out.

Sensory Check: When cutting fringe loops, you should slide the scissor tip inside the loop. You are looking for a clean "snip" sound, not the tearing sound of fabric.

Avoid these rookie mistakes:

• Trimming too early: Do not trim until the entire project is unhooped and finished.
• Cutting the wrong side: Make sure you are cutting the bobbin threads on the back (if the technique calls for it) or the loops on the front, strictly according to instructions.
• Dull Scissors: Using dull scissors on thread loops requires force. Force leads to slipping. Slipping leads to cutting the main fabric.

Pro tip pulled from the video context

The host mentions she hasn’t trimmed threads yet because the fringe work is part of the technique. That’s a smart sequencing reminder: don’t “finish” the bag until the specialty area is handled correctly.

If you’re producing bags in batches for an event, this is also where workflow matters: hoop and stitch first, then move to a table for a dedicated trimming/finishing pass. It’s faster and more consistent.

Vinyl Shaker Ornament in the Hoop: Layer Placement, Zipper Control, and a Finish That Looks Store-Bought

The shaker ornament shown in the video is a classic “looks complicated, stitches beautifully” project—if you respect the layers.

The host points out key construction facts:

• It uses vinyl and multiple layers.
• It includes a zipper.
• It’s open inside so you can put money or a gift card in.
• The small version fits a 5x7 hoop (explicitly mentioned).

The Pain Point: Vinyl is unforgiving. If you hoop it in a traditional frame and tighten the screw too much, you leave a permanent "hoop burn" ring (a white crease mark) that ruins the ornament.

If you’re using a 5x7 setup and want a cleaner experience, many embroiderers upgrade to a specialized brother magnetic hoop 5x7 system. This isn't just about being trendy; it's about physics. Magnetic hoops hold the vinyl flat between two plates without the "crushing" force of an inner ring, effectively eliminating hoop burn.

The “why” behind vinyl behaving badly (and how to keep it flat)

Vinyl doesn’t behave like woven cotton. It can:

• Shift more easily under lateral pressure.
• Show permanent marks if clamped too hard.
• Exaggerate puckering if the stabilizer choice is weak.

This is why magnetic embroidery hoops are a legitimate upgrade path for layered ITH work. They allow you to float the top layers and secure the sandwich quickly without wrestling a screw.

Warning: If you use magnetic hoops, keep magnets away from pacemakers/implanted medical devices. Be mindful of pinch points—industrial magnets can snap together with enough force to bruise fingers.

Setup Checklist (vinyl + zipper projects)

• Hoop Sizing: Confirm your design size matches your hoop (the video’s small ornament fits a 5x7).
• Prep Layers: Pre-cut all vinyl, zipper, and glitter packets.
• Surface Check: Wipe down your vinyl with a lint roller; trapped dust is permanent once stitched.
• Hanging Plan: Decide: stitched-off loop with ribbon, or hardware ring?
• Timeline: Plan a “no-rush” moment for final assembly—vinyl shows every mistake.

Leather Gift Tags and “Use Every Scrap” Thinking: How to Get Extra Tags Without Extra Cost

The host shares a detail that every shop owner loves: if you’re careful with vinyl and leather placement, you can have enough leather left to make extra tags.

That’s not just a fun bonus—that’s profit margin.

In real-world terms, careful layout turns one kit into:

• The class project,
• A couple of extra flip-flop tags (as shown),
• Another tag option (the palm tree in white leather),
• Hardware accents like a chain and tassel.

This is where I coach people to slow down for 60 seconds before they stitch:

• Map it out: Place your leather to maximize usable leftovers.
• Flatten scraps: Keep your offcuts flat under a heavy book; curled leather is useless.
• Inventory mindset: Treat material scraps as "future money," not trash.

If you are hooping leather regularly, you will quickly appreciate why pros search for embroidery hoops magnetic options. Leather is expensive; ruining a piece because the hoop popped open or left a ring mark costs real money.

The Decision Tree I Use for ITH Materials: Vinyl vs Leather vs Fabric (and What Stabilizer Usually Works)

You weren’t given a full stabilizer lecture in the video, but the projects shown (vinyl ornament, leather tags, cinch bag) live or die by support.

Below is a practical decision tree to ensure specific success. Always defer to your machine manual, but these are the "Safe Zones."

Decision Tree: Choose support based on the top material

1. Is your top layer Vinyl (Clear or Colored)?
   • YES: Use Medium Weight Tearaway. Vinyl has its own stability. Ensure the hoop tension is flat but not stretched.
   • NO: Go to step 2.
2. Is your top layer Leather (or faux leather)?
   • YES: Use Medium Weight Cutaway or a strong Tearaway depending on thickness. Critical: Do not pull leather tight like a drum; just lay it flat.
   • NO: Go to step 3.
3. Is your base a Fabric Blank (like a cinch bag)?
   • YES: Use Cutaway stabilizer. Bags take abuse; tearaway will dissolve over time and the stitches will distort.

A note from the video: The host mentions Battilizer (batting + stabilizer). This is a reminder that some projects are designed for specific bulk. If you swap it for thin stabilizer, the project might feel "floppy."

If you’re still fighting slow hooping or inconsistent tension despite the right stabilizer, this is where learning how to use magnetic embroidery hoop correctly becomes a skill upgrade. The best hoop won't fix specific uneven loading, but it removes the physical strain that causes human error.

The “Finish Like a Pro” Moves: Rings, Ribbons, Thread Trimming, and Why Sharp Scissors Matter

The video shows a small ring used to hang the ornament, and the host talks about trimming threads and fringe work on the cinch bag.

Here’s the finishing standard I hold my own shop to:

• Lighting: Trim threads under a bright LED desk lamp. If you can't see the jump stitch, neither can your scissors.
• Fringe Protocol: Trim first, then fluff with a dull needle or stylus, then inspect again.
• Hardware Choice: Ribbon is soft and forgiving; a metal ring is durable but requires a perfectly punched hole.

The host also mentions scissor sharpening services. Whether you sharpen locally or mail them out, the principle is the same: Dull scissors tug. Tugged threads distort the fabric.

Operation Checklist (The “Last 10%” Quality Control)

• Jump Stitches: Clean up all jump threads before assembly (especially near text).
• Fingerprints: Wipe vinyl clean with a microfiber cloth.
• Zipper Test: Confirm the zipper slider clears the vinyl edge and doesn't snag the confetti.
• Scraps: Immediately trim and store usable leather offcuts.
• Hidden Consumables: Do you have Fray Check or fabric glue? A tiny dot on the knot of your fringe ensures it lasts forever.

The Upgrade Path When You’re Done Fighting the Same Bottlenecks: Faster Hooping, Cleaner Results, and Real Production Speed

If you only stitch one ornament a year, you can muscle through almost any workflow.

But if you’re doing class kits, holiday batches, craft-fair inventory, or small-business orders, then your bottlenecks become predictable: hooping time, rehooping mistakes, and material marking.

Here’s the “Scene-Trigger + Decision Standard + Options” framework I use to advise clients on when to upgrade tools:

Scene Trigger: “I’m spending more time hooping than stitching, and my wrists hurt.”

• Decision Standard: If hooping friction is the main reason you avoid starting a project.
• The Options:
  • Level 1: Use a hooping station for machine embroidery to standardize placement on your existing hoops.
  • Level 2: Upgrade to SEWTECH Magnetic Hoops. You simply place, snap, and stitch. It reduces wrist strain and eliminates hoop burn on delicate vinyl/leather projects.

Scene Trigger: “I want to scale from one-off gifts to paid orders (50+ items).”

• Decision Standard: If you are rejecting orders because you can't change threads fast enough on a single-needle machine.
• The Options:
  • Level 1: Optimize thread organization.
  • Level 2: Invest in a SEWTECH Multi-Needle Machine. Moving from 1 needle to 10+ needles isn't just about speed; it's about freedom. You press 'Start' and walk away while it handles all color changes.

Scene Trigger: “My results look good, but not consistently professional.”

• Decision Standard: If the same file stitches differently on Tuesday than it did on Monday.
• The Options:
  • Standardize your Stabilizers (we supply backing suited for production consistency).
  • Use high-quality Embroidery Thread matched to the project’s density.

None of these upgrades are mandatory for a hobbyist. But if you are tired of fighting the same physics problems—slow hooping, shifting vinyl, marked leather—tools are how you buy back your time.

Quick Recap: The Two Fixes That Save the Most Projects (DST First, Then Smarter ITH Handling)

1. Solve the Error: When your machine says “Out of Memory,” don’t delete your files. Go back to the source and load the DST version. It’s the raw data language your machine prefers.
2. Respect the Material: For ITH projects like the shaker ornament, treat materials like vinyl and leather as “precision surfaces.” Keep them flat using magnetic hoops, support them with the right stabilizer, and use sharp scissors for the finish.

If you take nothing else from this session, take this: a calm file-format swap and a disciplined prep routine will save more projects than any fancy digitizing trick.

FAQ

• Q: How can a home embroidery machine show an “Out of Memory—Delete Stuff” message when the USB stick still has plenty of free space?
  A: This is common—many “Out of Memory/Delete Stuff” warnings are triggered by a single design file being too complex to process, not by true storage being full.
  • Confirm the warning appears only when loading one specific design (not every file).
  • Stop deleting designs from the machine as the first step.
  • Go back to the original source folder on the USB/computer and look for alternate file formats of the same design.
  • Success check: Other designs load normally, and only the problem design triggers the warning.
  • If it still fails: Try loading the DST version of that same design instead of the PES version.
• Q: What is the fastest way to clear an embroidery machine “Delete Stuff” error when a PES design will not load?
  A: Load the DST version of the same design from the source media instead of the PES file.
  • Open the vendor’s original design folder on the USB stick/computer.
  • Locate the matching DST file (same design name, different extension).
  • Import/load the DST file into the embroidery machine.
  • Success check: The machine loads the design without the memory warning and lets you proceed to stitch setup.
  • If it still fails: Reconfirm the DST is truly the same design (not a different size/version) and test another design file to rule out a USB/media issue.
• Q: Why do DST embroidery files sometimes show wrong colors on the machine screen compared with PES files?
  A: Don’t worry—DST files often load fine but may display odd colors because DST typically does not carry the same color information as PES.
  • Expect the screen preview to look “weird” (unusual color assignments).
  • Use the stitch sequence and your thread color chart to select thread colors manually.
  • Focus on stitch placement, not screen colors.
  • Success check: The design stitches in the correct locations even if the on-screen colors look incorrect.
  • If it still fails: Verify the correct design was loaded (correct name/size) and restart the load from the source folder.
• Q: What is the safest way to troubleshoot an embroidery machine issue when hands must go near the needle area?
  A: Power down before reaching into tight spaces near the needle/thread cutter to avoid injury—rushed fixes are when accidents happen.
  • Turn the machine off before touching anything near the needle, cutter, or snips area.
  • Remove the hoop/material if access is restricted.
  • Resume troubleshooting only when the area is clear and stable.
  • Success check: Hands can move in the needle area without the machine unexpectedly cycling or beeping into motion.
  • If it still fails: Consult the machine manual for the exact safe-access procedure for that model before continuing.
• Q: How can embroidery hoop burn be prevented on vinyl for an in-the-hoop shaker ornament project?
  A: Avoid crushing vinyl with a traditional screw-tightened hoop—vinyl can permanently mark, so use a gentler holding method and keep layers flat.
  • Confirm the design size matches the hoop size (the small version referenced fits a 5x7 hoop).
  • Prepare and pre-cut all layers (vinyl, zipper, confetti/glitter packet) before hooping so nothing shifts mid-process.
  • Use a holding approach that minimizes clamp pressure; magnetic hoops are often used to reduce hoop-ring marks on vinyl.
  • Success check: After unhooping, the vinyl surface shows no white crease ring or compression marks.
  • If it still fails: Recheck stabilizer support and layer control—vinyl exaggerates puckering when the backing choice is too weak.
• Q: What stabilizer is a safe starting point for in-the-hoop projects using vinyl, leather, or a fabric cinch bag blank?
  A: Use a material-based stabilizer choice: vinyl often pairs with medium tearaway, bags usually need cutaway, and leather may need medium cutaway or strong tearaway depending on thickness.
  • Choose medium weight tearaway for vinyl because the vinyl itself provides stability.
  • Choose cutaway for fabric blanks like cinch bags because the item takes wear and tear.
  • Choose medium cutaway or a strong tearaway for leather/faux leather depending on thickness, and avoid pulling leather drum-tight.
  • Success check: The design stitches without shifting/puckering and the finished item feels supported (not floppy if the project calls for loft like battilizer).
  • If it still fails: Return to the project’s recommended materials (for example, batting+stabilizer combinations) and avoid swapping to thinner backing without a test stitch-out.
• Q: What is the best upgrade path when embroidery production is slowed by hooping time, rehooping mistakes, and wrist strain?
  A: Use a layered approach: optimize placement first, then upgrade hooping hardware, and only then consider a production machine if volume demands it.
  • Level 1: Standardize placement with a hooping station to reduce rehoops and alignment waste.
  • Level 2: Switch to magnetic hoops to speed loading and reduce hoop burn on sensitive materials like vinyl/leather.
  • Level 3: If scaling to 50+ items and thread changes are the bottleneck, move to a multi-needle machine to reduce stop-start time.
  • Success check: Hooping time drops and repeat jobs start feeling consistent instead of “different every day.”
  • If it still fails: Identify the true bottleneck (file loading errors vs hooping vs finishing) and fix that specific choke point before buying the next tool.