Stop “Winging It” in Embrilliance: Add Any Magnetic Hoop Size (Mighty Hoop 8x9 / 8x13) Without Rotations or Needle Strikes

When your hoop isn’t listed in Embrilliance, it’s easy to panic. You are staring at a blank canvas, paralyzed by a specific fear: “If I guess these numbers wrong, my needle is going to slam into the metal frame.”

I have heard that sound—a sickening CRUNCH followed by the ping of a broken needle tip flying across the room. I’ve repaired the aftermath for plenty of people. It is a mistake that costs money, time, and confidence.

But here is the good news: This workflow is the clean, repeatable way to add any third-party hoop size into Embrilliance. By the end of this guide, your on-screen sewing field will match reality, and you can stop designing in the dark.

Jeanette’s video uses Mighty Hoops as the example, but the method applies to any third-party magnetic hoop that isn’t included in Embrilliance by default—including the heavy-duty magnetic frames many studios use to speed up production.

Your “Missing Hoop Size” Problem in Embrilliance Isn’t You—It’s the Preset List (and It’s Fixable)

Embrilliance doesn’t include every third-party manufacturer’s hoop sizes in the preset list. That’s why you can buy a premium hoop you love, open the software, and feel a wave of frustration when it simply isn’t there.

The risky workaround (what many beginners do) is picking the closest preset hoop and "kind of" designing inside it. Jeanette calls that “winging it,” and she is right: it works until it doesn't. Usually, it fails when a border gets too close to the edge, or your rotation flips, and your needle strikes the frame because the "6x10" generic hoop was actually 5mm wider than your specific frame.

If you have invested in magnetic embroidery hoops, the whole point is speed, consistency, and holding thick items like jackets without pain. Your software setup needs to match that precision.

The “Hidden” Prep Before You Touch Preferences: What Pros Check So the Hoop Preview Matches Reality

Before you touch the keyboard, grab your physical hoop. Do not trust the marketing name (e.g., "8x9"). Look for the etched or printed technical specifications on the frame itself.

In Jeanette's example, the hoop is sold as an "8x9," but the label reads 8.41" x 9.1875".

Why does this matter? Because physics doesn't care about marketing. Embrilliance draws a safety boundary based on the numbers you enter.

• If you enter numbers that are too small: You lose usable embroidery area.
• If you enter numbers that are too big: You risk a needle strike.

Prep Checklist (The "Safe Start" Protocol):

• Visual Check: Find the Sewing Field dimensions printed on the hoop (not the outer frame size).
• Tactile Check: Run your finger along the inside edge of the hoop. That is your hard limit.
• Data Entry: Write down the exact numbers (including decimals).
• Tool Check: Have a calculator ready (Embrilliance speaks Millimeters).
• Consumables Check: Ensure you have a standard millimeter ruler or tape measure if the hoop has no label.

Warning: Mechanical Safety Hazard. Keep fingers clear of the needle area during any trace or test run. Never "test" a new hoop size at full speed (800+ SPM). Start at a slow crawl (300-400 SPM) to audibly hear if the pantograph struggles or hits a limit.

The Only Menu Path That Matters: Embrilliance > Preferences > Hoops (Don’t Hunt for It)

We want to minimize "menu hunting" fatigue. Jeanette’s path is the only one you need to memorize:

• Look at the top menu bar (Mac) or File menu area (Windows).
• Select Preferences.
• In the pop-up window, find the Hoops tab or section.

Once you are there, you’ll see the list of existing hoops. This is your control center.

Create a New Hoop Profile in Embrilliance Without Future Confusion (Naming Is Half the Battle)

Inside Preferences > Hoops:

1. Click New.
2. Type a descriptive name immediately.
   
   Pro tip

   Don't just call it "My Hoop." Use a format that tells you exactly what it is three years from now.

• Bad Name: "Big Mag Hoop"
• Good Name: "Mighty Hoop 8x9 (Sewing Field)"

Jeanette uses “8 by 9 Mighty Hoop.” This clarity is vital. When users search for how to use mighty hoop configurations, the most common advice is to label files so clearly that a stranger could choose the right hoop.

Convert Inches to Millimeters the Same Way Every Time (Because Embrilliance Won’t Take Inches)

Jeanette is blunt here for a reason: Embrilliance requires Millimeters. If you try to enter Inches, the software will interpret "8.0" as 8 millimeters—a tiny speck on your screen.

The Golden Conversion Rule: $$ \text{Inches} \times 25.4 = \text{Millimeters} $$

Let's look at Jeanette's math:

• 8 inches: $8 \times 25.4 = 203.2$ mm (She rounds to 203 mm)
• 9 inches: $9 \times 25.4 = 228.6$ mm (She inputs 233 mm, likely adding a safety buffer or using the exact sewing field of 9.18").

The Expert's "Sweet Spot" for Rounding: Always round down to the nearest whole millimeter for safety. It is better to have 1mm of "wasted" space than to have your needle land 0.5mm onto the plastic frame.

The Width/Height Trap: Fix Hoop Orientation in Embrilliance Before You Resize Your Design

This is the moment that frustrates everyone. You enter "203 width" and "233 height," but on your screen, the hoop looks tall (portrait) when your physical hoop is wide (landscape).

Do not rotate your design to fix this. That is a trap. If you rotate the design, you might sew it sideways on your shirt.

Jeanette explains the fix: Embrilliance prioritizes Width first, then Height.

1. Go back to Preferences > Hoops.
2. Select your new hoop.
3. Click Edit.
4. Swap the values. Put the larger number in the Width box and the smaller number in the Height box.

For the mighty hoop 8x9, you want the wider dimension (approx 233 mm) in the Width field if you want it to appear horizontal on screen.

Validate Against the Hoop’s Real Sewing Field (Not the Marketing Name) to Avoid Hoop Hits

Jeanette highlights the label again: 8.41" x 9.1875". That is significantly larger than "8x9".

If you only entered 8x9 (203mm x 228mm), you are actually safe—because you defined a sewing field smaller than the physical limit. However, if the marketing said "8x9" but the sewing field was actually 7.5x8.5 (common with some budget hoops), and you entered 8x9, you would hit the frame.

The "Trace" Rule: Software is only a simulation. The physical machine tells the truth.

• Action: Load the hoop on the machine (empty).
• Action: Load your design.
• Action: Press the TRACE button (or "Check Size").
• Sensory Check: Watch the presser foot. Does it come dangerously close (less than 1-2mm) to the inner edge of the frame?

Tracing is your insurance policy. It costs zero dollars and takes 10 seconds.

Warning: Magnetic Safety. Powerful magnetic frames can snap together with enough force to pinch skin severely or damage cell phones. Keep them away from pacemakers. When storing them, place a piece of cardboard or foam between the magnets to make them easier to separate later.

Setup That Actually Sticks: Apply, OK, Then Confirm the Hoop Appears on the Canvas

A software setting isn't real until it's saved. Jeanette’s sequence is rigorous:

1. Click Apply.
2. Click OK.
3. Visual Confirmation: Look at the grid. Does the hoop outline appear?

One commenter noted they did everything right but saw nothing. The culprit? They typed the name but didn't hit "Apply" before closing the window.

Troubleshooting Tip: If the hoop doesn't appear, go to the View menu and ensure "Draw Hoop" is checked.

A Decision Tree for Choosing “Sewing Field” Numbers vs. Rounded Numbers (So You Don’t Overthink It)

Use this logic flow to decide what numbers to type:

Step 1: Does your hoop have a label with specific decimals (e.g., 8.41")?

• YES: Convert those exact numbers to MM. Use these. (Safest & Most Accurate).
• NO: Measure the inner dimension of the hoop yourself. Subtract 2mm for a safety margin. Convert to MM.

Step 2: Does the hoop look sideways on screen?

• YES: Swap the Width and Height numbers in Preferences.
• NO: Proceed.

Step 3: Can you run a trace?

• YES: Always trace.
• KNOW: Stop. Do not sew until you have traced.

Comment-Proof Fixes: The 3 Issues People Keep Running Into (and How to Get Unstuck Fast)

I read the comments so you don't have to. Here are the three most common failures:

1) “I added the hoop but nothing shows on screen.”

Likely Cause: You skipped the "Apply" button, or your View settings are off. The Fix: Go back to Preferences. If your hoop isn't in the list, re-enter it. If you are building a full library of mighty hoop magnetic embroidery hoops, do them one by one and save after each entry.

2) “My design ends up vertical, not horizontal.”

Likely Cause: Width/Height reversal. The Fix: Swap the MM values. Do not rotate the hoop physically on the machine unless your machine mount supports it (most don't).

3) “I entered 12 cm x 12 cm... isn't that right?”

Likely Cause: Unit confusion. The Fix: Embrilliance does not easy accept cm. It wants mm.

• 5 inches = 127 mm (Correct)
• 12 cm = 12 mm (Incorrect interpretation by software) -> Software sees a tiny dot.
• 120 mm = 12 cm (Correct).

The “Why” Behind All This: Hooping Physics, Real Sewing Fields, and Why Your Preview Must Be Honest

Why go through this trouble? Why not just use standard hoops?

Standard hoops require "hooping" the fabric—squeezing it between inner and outer rings. This often causes "hoop burn" (shiny marks) on delicate fabrics or stretches knits out of shape.

Magnetic hoops clamp down from the top. There is less friction and zero "burn." But because they are aftermarket tools, the software doesn't know their boundaries.

When you synchronize your software to your magnetic hoop, you unlock a professional workflow:

1. Safety: You trust the borders.
2. Speed: You stop measuring and start sewing.
3. Quality: No more fabric distortion.

The Upgrade Path: When Custom Hoop Profiles Turn Into Real Production Speed

Once you have mastered adding these profiles, you will notice something: you are faster. You are no longer fighting the setup.

If you are using a single-needle machine and find yourself constantly re-hooping to fix alignment, switching to a magnetic hoop for brother se1900 (or similar models) is often the first step in upgrading your toolkit. It reduces wrist strain and hooping errors.

However, if you find yourself doing runs of 20, 50, or 100 shirts, even the best hoop won't solve the speed limit of a single needle. This is where professionals look at the next leap: Multi-Needle Machines.

• The Limit: Single-needle machines require a manual thread change for every color.
• The Solution: SEWTECH Multi-Needle machines (promoted for their high ROI) allow you to set up 6-15 colors at once. Combined with magnetic hoops, you can load, press start, and walk away.

Identifying when to upgrade tools (hoops) versus when to upgrade machinery (multi-needle) is the key to turning a hobby into a business.

Operation Checklist: The “No Hoop Strike” Routine I Want You to Repeat Every Time

To ensure you never break a needle again, follow this "Pilot's Checklist" before every run with a custom hoop:

• Profile Check: Is the specific custom hoop selected in Embrilliance? (Don't use "Generic 5x7" for a custom frame).
• Visual Check: Does the hoop boundary on screen look like the right shape/orientation?
• Swap Check: If the hoop looks rotated, did you swap Width/Height in Preferences?
• Physical Check: Is the hoop firmly attached to the machine arm? (Listen for the "Click").
• Trace Check: Run the trace function on the machine. (Critical Step).
• Safety Check: If setting up a huge field like a mighty hoop 8x13, watch the trace closely at the corners to ensure the pantograph arm doesn't hit the machine body.

FAQ

• Q: How do I add a third-party magnetic embroidery hoop size in Embrilliance when the hoop is missing from the preset list?
  A: Add a custom hoop profile in Embrilliance Preferences and enter the hoop’s sewing field in millimeters.
  • Open Embrilliance > Preferences > Hoops, click New, and give the hoop a clear name (brand + size + “Sewing Field”).
  • Read the sewing field dimensions printed/etched on the hoop (do not use the marketing name).
  • Convert inches to mm using inches × 25.4, then enter Width/Height in the new hoop profile.
  • Success check: The hoop boundary outline appears on the canvas and matches the physical hoop’s orientation.
  • If it still fails: Re-open Preferences and confirm you clicked Apply before OK, then verify View > Draw Hoop is enabled.
• Q: What sewing field numbers should I enter in Embrilliance for a Mighty Hoop 8x9 if the label shows decimals like 8.41" × 9.1875"?
  A: Use the exact labeled sewing field decimals, convert to millimeters, and round down for safety.
  • Read the hoop label for the sewing field (example: 8.41" × 9.1875"), not the outer frame size.
  • Convert each dimension to mm (inches × 25.4) and round down to the nearest whole millimeter.
  • Enter those mm values into Preferences > Hoops > Edit for the custom hoop.
  • Success check: The on-screen hoop boundary is slightly conservative (safer) and your design stays comfortably inside it.
  • If it still fails: Measure the hoop’s inner opening with a mm ruler/tape and subtract a small safety margin (generally a couple mm), then re-enter values.
• Q: Why does a custom hoop look vertical in Embrilliance even though the physical hoop is horizontal, and how do I fix hoop orientation?
  A: Swap the Width and Height values in the Embrilliance hoop profile—do not rotate the design to “make it look right.”
  • Go to Preferences > Hoops, select the custom hoop, and click Edit.
  • Swap the numbers so the larger value is in Width if you want a horizontal (landscape) preview.
  • Re-save the profile using Apply then OK.
  • Success check: The hoop outline on screen matches the real hoop’s wide/landscape shape.
  • If it still fails: Confirm the correct hoop profile is selected in the design workspace (not a generic preset).
• Q: What is the safest way to prevent a needle strike after creating a custom hoop profile in Embrilliance?
  A: Always run a machine TRACE (Check Size) at a slow speed before sewing any design with a new custom hoop.
  • Hoop nothing (empty hoop), mount the hoop, and load the design on the machine.
  • Press TRACE/Check Size and watch the presser foot path near the inner edge.
  • Start slow (generally 300–400 SPM) so any binding/contact is obvious before damage happens.
  • Success check: The traced path stays at least about 1–2 mm inside the hoop’s inner edge with no audible “struggle” or contact.
  • If it still fails: Reduce the sewing field numbers in Embrilliance (safer smaller boundary), then trace again.
• Q: Why did Embrilliance make my hoop tiny when I typed inches or centimeters, and what units does Embrilliance require for hoop size?
  A: Embrilliance requires millimeters—typing inches or “12 cm” can be interpreted as a few millimeters and shrink the hoop preview.
  • Convert inches to mm using inches × 25.4 before entering values.
  • Enter centimeters as millimeters (example: 12 cm = 120 mm, not 12 mm).
  • Re-check the custom hoop profile values in Preferences > Hoops > Edit.
  • Success check: The hoop boundary on screen is a realistic size relative to the design, not a tiny dot.
  • If it still fails: Re-enter the values carefully and confirm you saved with Apply before closing.
• Q: I created a new hoop in Embrilliance Preferences > Hoops, but the hoop outline does not show on the canvas—how do I make Embrilliance display the hoop?
  A: Save the hoop profile correctly and enable hoop drawing in View settings.
  • Re-open Preferences > Hoops and confirm the hoop is listed (if not, create it again).
  • Click Apply first, then click OK (closing without Apply can discard changes).
  • Go to View and ensure Draw Hoop is checked.
  • Success check: The hoop boundary becomes visible on the grid immediately after saving and enabling Draw Hoop.
  • If it still fails: Restart Embrilliance and confirm you are not viewing a workspace mode that hides the hoop display.
• Q: What safety precautions should embroidery users follow when handling powerful magnetic embroidery hoops and when test-running a new hoop size?
  A: Treat magnetic hoops as pinch hazards and treat new hoop profiles as mechanical test runs—go slow and keep hands clear.
  • Keep fingers away from the magnet closure path; magnets can snap together hard enough to pinch skin.
  • Keep magnetic frames away from pacemakers and protect devices like phones; store hoops with cardboard/foam between magnets.
  • Run a TRACE/Check Size before sewing, and do not “test” a new hoop size at full speed.
  • Success check: The magnets close under control (no sudden snap onto fingers) and the trace completes without contact or alarming proximity.
  • If it still fails: Stop immediately, separate the magnets safely, and re-check the sewing field numbers (smaller is safer) before trying again.
• Q: If adding custom hoop profiles in Embrilliance still feels slow for production, when should embroidery users upgrade technique vs magnetic hoops vs a multi-needle machine?
  A: Use a tiered approach: optimize settings first, then upgrade hooping tools for consistency, then upgrade to multi-needle when color changes become the bottleneck.
  • Level 1 (Technique): Standardize the routine—select the exact hoop profile, confirm orientation, and always trace before sewing.
  • Level 2 (Tool): Use magnetic hoops when hooping time, fabric distortion, or re-hooping alignment mistakes are the main pain point.
  • Level 3 (Capacity): Consider a multi-needle machine when frequent manual thread changes on a single-needle machine limit output on runs (often 20+ items).
  • Success check: The main bottleneck (setup time, re-hooping errors, or thread-change downtime) measurably drops after the chosen upgrade.
  • If it still fails: Track where time is being lost (hooping vs alignment vs thread changes) and address that single biggest constraint first.