The 87/10 Rule in Hatch: Digitize a Zentangle Spiral, Then Mirror It Into a Stunning 4-Quadrant Pattern

Setting Up the Perfect 3x3 Square

A Zentangle-style embroidery file can look intimidating on screen—complex, twisted, and mathematically perfect. However, seeing it as a "monster" is a rookie mistake. The underlying build is surprisingly systematic, more like assembling a Lego set than painting a masterpiece: one clean running-stitch square, a repeatable transform loop, and finally, a symmetry tool that multiplies your work.

In this walkthrough, we will recreate Sue’s method in Hatch. You will start with a true 3.00" x 3.00" open shape (single run), optionally soften the corners to reduce machine deceleration, then apply the "87/10" transform rhythm until you achieve that spiraling tunnel effect. The grand finale involves using Mirror Copy Both to turn one simple quadrant into a complex, professional-grade pattern.

Why this method stitches so well (Logic & Physics)

The heavy "satin stitch look" often creates bulletproof stiff patches on fabric. This design creates a bold "Redwork-like" aesthetic using only running stitches.

• The Benefit: It is lightweight and drapes well on fabric.
• The Risk: Repeated passes in a tiny area (the center) stack thread rapidly. If you layer 15 strands of thread on one coordinate, you create a "hard knot" that can deflect the needle or cause thread shredding. Your job as the digitizer is to manage the density limit.

What you’ll learn

• Precision: How to force an exact 3" x 3" square by toggling the aspect ratio lock.
• Flow: How to round corners using Reshape and the Spacebar node toggle (smoother machine movement).
• The Formula: The "Zentangle" sweet spot: scale to 87% and rotate 10° on each iteration.
• Workflow: A fast copy/paste rhythm that keeps the spiral aligned.
• Symmetry: How Mirror Copy Both instantly creates a four-part symmetrical design.
• Safety: How to use Stitch Player to catch needle-breaking overlap before you stitch.

Warning: Even though this is "just running stitch," repeated overlaps create needle heat and friction. If the center becomes microscopic, you risk creating a "bird's nest" or snapping a needle. Always simulate first, and test-stitch on scrap fabric (calico or felt) before committing to a final garment.

Curving Corners: The Reshape Tool Secret

Curved corners are optional, but from a mechanics perspective, they are superior. Sharp 90° corners force the embroidery machine to decelerate to zero and accelerate again, creating noise and vibration. Rounded corners allow the pantograph (arm) to maintain momentum, resulting in fluid, "wave-like" stitching.

Step-by-step: rounding a square corner in Hatch

1. Select the square outline (your open shape).
2. Choose the Reshape tool.
3. Add a node: Left-click on the blue line near a corner to insert a point.
4. Select the node you want to convert (it will turn dark blue).
5. Press Spacebar. This is the toggle switch—watch the node change from a square (sharp) to a circle (curve).
6. Drag the curve inward until the corner creates a smooth radius.
7. Repeat for all four corners.

Checkpoints (Visual & Tactile)

• Visual: The corner should look like a smooth highway turn, not a T-intersection.
• Tactile (Mouse): The drag handle should feel responsive. If it snaps back, zoom in more.

Expected outcome

A square that stiches quietly and fluidly, blending gracefully when mirrored later.

Watch out (from the comments): “My nodes move weirdly / together”

Hatch sometimes "couples" points, especially start/end points. If you pull one node and another moves with it:

• Zoom in to 600%+.
• Physically move the green (Start) and red (End) crosses out of the way.
• Select only the specific node you want to edit.

The Magic Formula: 87% Scale and 10 Degree Rotation

This is the heart of the Zentangle build. You are creating a smaller, rotated clone inside the previous shape.

Step-by-step: the first transform

1. Select the base square.
2. Check the Lock: Ensure the padlock icon between Width and Height is CLOSED. This forces proportional scaling.
3. In the Scale box, type 87 (%) and press Enter.
4. In the Rotation box, type 10 (degrees) and press Enter.

Checkpoints

• The new square sits neatly inside the original.
• The distance between lines is consistent—not touching, but close.

Expected outcome

A "tunnel" effect begins to form.

Why 87% and 10° works (The "Sweet Spot")

Digitizing is math.

• Scale > 90%: The tunnel creates a shallow slope; you'll need too many iterations to fill the center, increasing stitch count unnecessarily.
• Scale < 80%: The tunnel collapses too fast; the design looks empty.
• 87% / 10°: Based on Sue's experience, this ratio provides the perfect visual density without creating a "bulletproof" badge effect. Stick to these numbers for your first attempt.

Speed Up Your Workflow with Copy and Paste

Once the math is proven, the rest is rapid repetition.

Step-by-step: the rapid iteration loop

1. Ctrl+C (Copy selected object).
2. Ctrl+V (Paste).
3. Type 87 in scale -> Enter.
4. Type 10 in rotation -> Enter.
5. Repeat this loop 10–15 times.

Checkpoints (The "Stop" Signal)

• Visual Check: Look at the center. As soon as the innermost square becomes smaller than a dime (approx. 0.5 inches or 12mm), STOP.
• Why: Any smaller, and the stitches will just pile on top of each other.

Expected outcome

A mesmerizing spiral. Darker areas will appear where lines cross—this is the intended "shading" effect created purely by thread layering.

The biggest quality trap: the center “blob”

Sue explicitly warns against going microscopic. In physical embroidery, thread has mass. If you digitize a 1mm square, the machine will struggle, knot up, and potentially suck the fabric down into the bobbin plate. Rule of thumb: Leave breathing room in the center.

Pro tip: keep it relaxing, but keep it controlled

To maintain quality during this repetitive task:

• Pause every 4 iterations.
• Zoom to 1:1 (Real Size) view.
• Ask: "Can a needle physically fit in that gap?" If the answer is no, delete the last iteration.

Using Mirror Copy Both to Quadruple the Design

Now for the productivity hack. We turn one spiral into a complex tile.

Step-by-step: Mirror Copy Both

1. Select All (Ctrl+A) to grab your entire spiral stack.
2. Go to the Layout tab.
3. Select Mirror Copy Both. This reflects the design across both X and Y axes simultaneously.
4. Zoom in to the dead center where the four quadrants meet.

Checkpoints

• The junction point is the most critical area.
• Ensure the four quadrants align symmetrically.

Expected outcome

A starburst or optical illusion effect.

Overlap vs gap at the quadrant seams (how to decide)

You will see the four corners meeting. You must make a choice based on your stabilizer and hooping:

• Slight Overlap (1mm): Choose this if you are using standard hoops on flexible fabric. Fabric shrinks as you stitch; the overlap prevents gaps (white lines) from appearing later.
• Tiny Gap: Choose this ONLY if you are using a rigid system like magnetic frames on stable fabric (canvas/denim), where you trust the material won't shift.

Comment integration: “I didn’t know you could mirror right and below at the same time”

This tool changes your mindset. You stop thinking "How do I draw this huge pattern?" and start thinking "How do I draw one small corner perfectly?" precise input equals precise output.

Final Stitch Simulation Checks

Never send a file to the machine without a "Digital Test Drive."

Step-by-step: simulate like a production digitizer

1. Press 'S': Hide the stitch shapes/TrueView. You want to see the thin wireframe stitch lines.
2. Open Stitch Player (Shift+R).
3. Drag the speed slider up.
4. Eyes on the center: Watch how the needle enters the middle. Does it hammer the same spot 20 times? If so, delete the smallest inner squares.

Checkpoints

• Flow must be: Center -> Out -> Back to Center.
• No "knots" or hesitation marks in the simulation.

Expected outcome

A clean, continuous run that looks like a single line drawing.

Warning: Simulation is perfect; reality is not. A running-stitch geometric design is the ultimate test of your hooping. If the fabric slips even 1mm, the geometric lines won't meet. Test on scrap first!

Primer

This design is a digitizing exercise, but physically, it's a Hooping Stress Test. Geometric running stitches are unforgiving. Unlike a fluffy satin stitch flower that hides small errors, these precise lines show every pucker, shift, or bubble.

This is where your equipment choice matters. If you find your fabric slipping halfway through the design, or if you struggle to get perfect tension without "hoop burn" marks, many pros upgrade to machine embroidery hoops that use strong magnets. Precision tools complement precision designs.

Prep

Before you load the file, you must prepare the "Physical Layer." Failure here guarantees a ruined project.

Hidden consumables & prep checks (The Expert's Kit)

• Needle: Use a 75/11 Sharp (for wovens) or Ballpoint (for knits). A dull needle will drag the fabric and distort the square.
• Bobbin: Check your bobbin level. Running out of bobbin thread on a precise line design creates a messy tie-off knot that ruins the look.
• Marking: Use a heat-erase pen or chalk. You need a precise center crosshair.
• Stabilizer: This is non-negotiable. See the decision tree below.

If you are producing these squares in bulk (e.g., for a quilt), setting up an embroidery hooping station ensures every block is hooped at the exact same tension and angle, reducing rejects.

Decision tree: fabric → stabilizer choice

Follow this logic to prevent puckering:

1. Is the fabric stable? (Denim, Canvas, Twill)
   • YES: Use Tear-away (2 layers if thin). Friction is low; risk is low.
   • NO: Go to step 2.
2. Is the fabric unstable/stretchy? (T-shirt, Jersey, Spandex)
   • YES: You MUST use Cut-away stabilizer. Running stitches will pull the fabric inward ("pursing"). Cut-away holds the geometry.
   • NO: Go to step 3.
3. Does it have pile? (Towels, Velvet)
   • YES: Use a Water Soluble Topper on top. Without it, the thin running stitches will sink and disappear into the fluff.

Prep checklist (complete before you stitch)

• Needle Check: Is it new? Is it the right type?
• Bobbin Check: Is it at least 50% full?
• Hooping Check: Is the fabric "drum tight" (taut but not stretched)?
• File Check: Did you save the file as a machine format (DST/PES) and the working file (EMB)?

Setup

File setup in Hatch

• Output: Export to your machine's native language (e.g., .PES for Brother, .JEF for Janome).
• Center: Ensure "Auto Center" is checked in your software so the needle starts exactly in the middle.

Hardware Setup

Mount the hoop.

• Tactile Check: tap the fabric. It should sound like a dull thump.
• Gap Check: If using standard hoops, ensure the inner and outer rings are flush. If using magnetic embroidery hoops, ensure the magnets have snapped down completely on all sides to prevent flagging (fabric bouncing).

Warning: Magnet Safety. High-quality magnetic frames are powerful. They can pinch fingers severely. Never place them near pacemakers. Slide the magnets on and off; do not let them "slam" together.

Operation

Step-by-step (The Execution)

1. Digitize: Follow the 3x3 square -> Reshape -> 87%/10° loop -> Mirror Copy Both process.
2. Verify: Run the Stitch Player simulation. Look for key overlap issues.
3. Hoop: Load fabric with the correct stabilizer (Cut-away for knits!).
4. Trace: Run the "Trace" or "Design Check" function on your machine to ensure the needle won't hit the hoop frame.
5. Run: Start the machine. Watch the first 500 stitches.
   • Listen: Smooth rhythm = Good.
   • Listen: Slapping sound = Fabric is loose (Tighten hoop!).

If you are doing production runs (e.g., 20 squares for a quilt), consistent placement is key. Using a dedicated hooping station for machine embroidery allows you to align the grain of the fabric perfectly every single time, which is critical for geometric quilt blocks.

Operation checklist (During the stitch-out)

• Sound Check: No grinding or loud slapping noises.
• Visual Check: The square looks square, not skewed/diamond-shaped.
• Center Check: The center isn't knotting up (Bird nesting).
• Puckering Check: The fabric around the stitches remains flat.

Quality Checks

What “good” looks like on fabric

• Geometry: The square is actually square (measure diagonals; they should be equal).
• Flatness: No puckering or "tunneling" around the dense lines.
• Clarity: Individual running stitches are visible, not buried in fabric.

Practical stitch-quality notes

If your square looks like a diamond or hourglass, your stabilization is too weak or your hoop tension is uneven. Standard hoops often struggle with this because you have to tighten a screw against the fabric resistance. This logic is why many experienced users switch to magnetic hoops. They simplify the variable of tension—you just snap them on, and the fabric is held evenly flat, reducing the "pull" distortion common in geometric designs.

If you are using hoops for embroidery machines that leave "hoop burn" (shiny crushed marks) on velvet or delicate cotton, steaming may fix it, but magnetic frames are the easier preventative cure.

Troubleshooting

Symptom: The center becomes a hard "thread boulder"

• Likely Cause: You iterated too many times in software (e.g., down to 5% scale).
• Quick Fix: Go back to Hatch. Delete the inner 3-4 loops. The center should be open enough to see a little fabric (approx 10-12mm).

Symptom: "Bird's Nest" (Thread tangle under the plate)

• Likely Cause: Upper tension is too loose OR the machine moved whilst the needle was buried in a dense center spot.
• Quick Fix: Cut the mess out. Change the needle (it's likely bent). Re-thread completely.

Symptom: The 3x3 Square measures 2.8" x 3.1" (Distortion)

• Likely Cause: Fabric shifted during stitching. The grain was pulled.
• Quick Fix: Use a heavier stabilizer (Cut-away). Use spray adhesive (505 spray) to bond fabric to stabilizer.
• Prevention: Search for how to use magnetic embroidery hoop to see how clamping force can be applied more evenly than screw-tightened hoops.

Symptom: Thread Breaks constantly

• Likely Cause: Old thread, burred needle, or speed is too high (800+ SPM) for detailed geometric work.
• Quick Fix: Slow down to 600 SPM. Change to a new needle.

Results

You now possess a "Master File" for a Zentangle square:

1. Mathematically Perfect: 3x3 inch base.
2. Mechanically Sound: Rounded corners for smooth stitching.
3. Aesthetically Pleasing: 87% / 10° spiral ratio.
4. Production Ready: Optimized center to prevent needle breaks.

The comments on Sue's video highlight the joy of this method: it looks incredibly complex to the eye, but it feels simple to the hand—if you respect the physics of the machine. Keep your centers open, stabilize your fabric like you mean it, and enjoy the hypnotic rhythm of the spiral