Forte PD Satin Poke-Through Fix: Clean Underlay Pathing, Smarter Stitch Length, and a File That Actually Runs

If you’ve ever watched a satin column preview and felt your stomach drop because a dark underlay line is ghosting through the top stitches—breathe. That “poke-through” look is common on tight curves and skinny satin columns. It means the physics of your thread path are fighting the geometry of your design.

In this lesson based on a Forte PD (Pantograms) workflow, we are going to fix a digitized monkey character. But more importantly, we are going to solve a real-world production problem: ensuring the running-stitch underlay stays invisible, where it belongs. The video starts with a design showing 8,587 stitches, then walks through point edits, stitch-length tuning, and the professional habit that separates hobbyists from masters: the courage to delete and redo the ugly part.

When Forte PD Underlay Shows Through Satin Stitch, Don’t Panic—Diagnose It Like a Pro

Poke-through is rarely random. It is usually the result of "bridging"—where the underlay stitch is too long to hug the curve, creating a straight line that cuts across the arc.

The Physics of the Problem:

• Proximity: The running stitch underlay is sitting too close to the satin edge.
• Chord Length: The running stitch length (e.g., 4mm) is too long for the curve radius, causing it to "cut the corner" and become visible.
• Coverage: The satin column is too narrow or turning too sharply for the top thread to effectively hide the structure beneath.

In the video, you turn stitches on and immediately spot the problem: the darker running stitch appears to poke through the lighter satin preview. Stop digitizing. If it looks questionable in the 3D preview, it will look like a mistake on physical fabric.

Expert Mindset: The 3D preview is not a decoration; it is a stress test. If you treat the preview like a final inspection, you’ll ship fewer “mystery problems” to the machine.

The “Hidden” Prep Before You Touch Points: Set Yourself Up for Clean Satin Coverage

Before you start dragging nodes, you must perform a "Pre-Flight Check." This saves you from fixing a design that isn't actually broken—or missing a design that is.

Prep Checklist (Complete before editing):

• Visual Toggle: Switch between Wireframe (geometry) and 3D Preview (coverage). Compare them.
• Zoom Check: Zoom in until the running stitch looks like a rope. Is it flirting with the edge?
• Geometry Scan: Is the issue on a tight curve (ears) or a sharp corner (hair)? These require different tools.
• Scope: Are you fixing one object, or is your Global Default setting wrong?
• Hidden Consumables Check: Do you have your Temporary Spray Adhesive and Water Soluble Pen ready for the test sew? These are often missing when panic sets in.

Reality Check: If you are stitching on unstable ground (like a pique knit or a stretchy tee), the fabric will move. Even a perfect file can fail if the stabilization is weak. If your workflow includes frequent garment runs, standardization is key. Using a consistent setup, like an hooping station for machine embroidery, reduces the manual variables between your screen and the needle.

The Fix That Actually Works: Move Running-Stitch Nodes Inward in Wireframe (So Satin Can Cover Them)

The first correction is pure pathing logic. You need to physically move the foundation structure.

1. Switch View: Go to Wireframe View.
2. Engage Tool: Use the Select Point tool.
3. Grab: Click the Bezier nodes/handles of the internal running stitch path.
4. Retract: Drag the running stitch inward, deeper into the "safe zone" of the satin column.

Sensory Check: Imagine the satin column is a tunnel. The running stitch is the train. The train must stay in the middle of the tunnel, not scrape against the walls.

Checkpoint: After moving points, turn stitches on again. Success Metric: The running stitch should be invisible in the preview.

Why this works (and the Danger Zone)

Satin coverage is thickest in the center (the "loft") and thinnest at the edges. By pulling the underlay inward, you utilize the thickest part of the satin for coverage. The Trap: If you pull the underlay too far into the center, you lose edge stability. This can cause the satin edges to look "ragged" or loose because they aren't anchored. Move it just enough to hide it—no further.

The 0.157" to 0.11" Move: Adjust Running Stitch Length in Forte PD to Stop Poke-Through on Tight Curves

This is the single most actionable technical tip in the lesson. The default running stitch length was causing the thread to "bridge" across the curves.

The Sweet Spot Adjustment:

• Default (Risk Zone): 0.157 inches (~4mm). Too long for small curves.
• Adjusted (Safe Zone): 0.11 inches (~2.8mm). Short enough to hug the radius.

Step-by-Step Fix:

1. Use Select Point.
2. Right-click the object and Select Object.
3. Right-click again to open Running Stitch Properties.
4. Decrease stitch length to 0.11.

Checkpoint: Toggle stitches on. Success Metric: The "ghost line" disappears.

Why does this matter? On a tight curve, a long stitch acts like a plank of wood trying to cover a round barrel—it sticks out. A short stitch acts like a chain link—it wraps around. For anyone building a library of designs, mastering these embroidery digitizing underlay settings is what prevents the need for constant re-stitching.

Stop Repeating Yourself: Change Forte PD Default Running Stitch Length in Settings (So New Objects Behave)

Don't fix the same problem one hundred times. Fix the system. The video shows going to the top menu Settings to permanently adjust the default running stitch length for the session.

The Pro Routine:

1. Set Global Running Stitch to 0.11" (2.8mm) before starting a character design.
2. Digitize freely.

Checkpoint: Create a new test object. Success Metric: It automatically inherits the shorter, safer stitch length.

Arc Satin vs Straight Satin in Forte PD: Curved Ears Need “Arced,” Jagged Hair Needs “Straight”

Using the wrong tool is like trying to hammer a screw. It works eventually, but it's ugly.

Digitizing the Ear (Fluidity)

In the video, you select Satin Stitch – Arced. You define the spine and width.

• The "Why": Organic shapes need fluid mathematics. The Arc tool calculates the curve for you, ensuring the stitch angles fan out evenly (like a hand of cards).
  

Digitizing the Hair Tuft (Precision)

Later, you switch to Satin Stitch – Straight because the hair is jagged.

• The "Why": The Arc tool tries to "smooth" corners, which destroys the crisp look of a spike. The Straight tool respects your hard angles.

Understanding when to switch tools is the core of digitizing sharp corners vs curves embroidery. If your corners look round and mushy, you are likely using an Arc tool where a Straight tool belongs.

The Quality-Control Habit That Saves Hours: Delete and Redigitize the Ugly Segment (With Planned Overlap)

There is a moment in every digitizer's life where they try to "massage" a bad shape for 20 minutes. Stop.

In the video, the instructor demonstrates the "Surgical Strike":

1. Assess: The hair tuft looks wrong.
2. Delete: Remove the segment entirely.
3. Redraw: Use the correct tool (Straight Satin).
4. Overlap: Ensure the start and end points overlap slightly with previous sections.

The "Gap" Theory: Fabric shifts. If you digitize shapes to perfectly kiss-touch on screen, they will separate on the machine, leaving a gap where the garment shows through. Always digitize a 1mm overlap.

The Travel Stitch Bridge: Using a Short Running Stitch to Move from Head to Left Ear Without Chaos

Software lets you jump from A to B instantly. Machines do not.

The video shows inserting a Travel Stitch (a short running stitch) to bridge the gap between the head and the ear.

• Without Travel Stitch: The machine stops, trims the thread, moves, and ties in again. (Slow, potential for "bird nests").
• With Travel Stitch: The machine keeps sewing, burying the travel line under the upcoming satin. (Fast, secure).

Checkpoint: Verify the travel stitch is completely covered by the next object.

Setup Choices That Make Digitized Files Stitch Better: Fabric + Stabilizer Decision Tree (So Your Satin Stays Clean)

You cannot digitize in a vacuum. The "poke-through" effect is often physical—the fabric stretching and revealing the underlay.

Use this decision tree to match your physical setup to your digital file:

Decision Tree: Fabric & Stabilizer Pairing

If you ignore proper stabilization, no amount of digitizing will save the design. If you frequently struggle with hoop marks on delicate items, searching for hooping for embroidery machine best practices usually leads to one conclusion: better tools (like magnets) prevent fabric distortion.

Two Warnings I Give Every Shop (Because Injuries and Damage Are Expensive)

Warning (Mechanical Safety): When testing a satin-heavy file, keep hands clear. If a specific satin column is too dense, it can deflect the needle, causing it to shatter. Flying needle tips are a serious shop hazard. Listen for a "thumping" sound—that usually means density is too high or the needle is dull.

Warning (Magnetic Safety): If you upgrade to magnetic embroidery hoops, treat them with respect. Industrial magnets can snap together with enough force to pinch skin severely, and they must be kept away from pacemakers. They are incredible production tools, but they command caution.

Troubleshooting Forte PD Satin + Underlay Problems: Symptoms → Causes → Fixes You Can Trust

Use this table when your sew-out fails. Start from the top (easiest checks) to the bottom (digitizing edits).

Pro Tip: Generally, poke-through gets worse on light thread colors over dark underlay. If the software fix doesn't work, verify your fabric isn't "grinning" (stretching) inside the hoop.

The Upgrade Path: When Better Hooping and Faster Production Matter More Than Another Hour of Tweaking

You have optimized your file. Now, look at your workflow.

If you are spending more time fixing "hoop burn" (pressure marks from frames) or struggling to clamp thick jackets than you are sewing, your toolset is the bottleneck.

1. Level 1 (Process): Use a magnetic hooping station to ensure every logo is placed identically.
2. Level 2 (Tooling): Switch to Magnetic Hoops. They hold thick/delicate items securely without the physical force that distorts fabric (and ruins your digitizing geometry).
3. Level 3 (Capacity): If you are running 50+ items and dreading thread changes, it is time to move from a single-needle to a Multi-Needle Machine (like the SEWTECH series). The efficiency gain isn't just speed; it's the ability to handle professional tubular hoops naturally.
   

Operation Checklist: The “Before You Export” Routine That Prevents Bad Stitch-Outs

Do not hit "Export" until you pass this list.

Operation Checklist (Final Review):

• Scan: Turn stitches on. Are any dark underlay lines visible?
• Data Check: Is running stitch length set to 0.11" on curves?
• Physics Check: Do satin segments overlap by at least 1mm?
• Pathing: Are travel stitches short and hidden?
• Visual Balance: Zoom out. Does the character look balanced?

Clean satin isn’t luck. It is the specific combination of tight underlay control (the 0.11" rule), correct tool choice (Arc vs. Straight), and solid physical stabilization. Master these, and your monkey won't just look good on screen—it will look professional on the shirt.

FAQ

• Q: In Forte PD (Pantograms), why does running-stitch underlay show through satin stitch on tight curves (poke-through/ghosting) in 3D preview?
  A: This is usually “bridging” from an underlay stitch length that is too long for the curve, so shorten the running stitch and re-check coverage.
  • Switch to Wireframe and locate the running-stitch underlay that is closest to the satin edge
  • Open Running Stitch Properties and reduce stitch length from 0.157" (~4mm) to 0.11" (~2.8mm) on tight curves
  • Toggle stitches back on and review the same curve area again
  • Success check: the dark underlay “ghost line” disappears in 3D preview before sewing
  • If it still fails: move the underlay path slightly inward (do not over-pull) so the satin can cover it
• Q: In Forte PD (Pantograms), how do you move running-stitch underlay inward in Wireframe View to stop poke-through on narrow satin columns?
  A: Pull the running-stitch nodes inward just enough to sit in the satin “safe zone,” so the top stitches can hide the structure.
  • Switch to Wireframe View and select the Select Point tool
  • Grab Bezier nodes/handles on the internal running stitch path and drag the path inward
  • Toggle stitches on and re-check the same section immediately
  • Success check: the underlay is invisible in preview, but the satin edge still looks anchored (not ragged)
  • If it still fails: back the underlay slightly toward the edge (over-pulling inward can cause ragged satin edges)
• Q: In Forte PD (Pantograms), how do you change the default running stitch length in Settings so new underlay objects don’t keep using 0.157"?
  A: Set the global/default running stitch length to 0.11" (2.8mm) before digitizing, so new objects inherit the safer value automatically.
  • Open the top menu Settings and adjust the default running stitch length for the session
  • Create a new test object to confirm the default is applying correctly
  • Keep the 0.11" (2.8mm) default when building character designs with tight curves
  • Success check: a newly created running-stitch object automatically shows the shorter stitch length setting
  • If it still fails: verify the correct object type is selected before editing properties (object-level vs global)
• Q: In Forte PD (Pantograms), when should Satin Stitch – Arced be used instead of Satin Stitch – Straight for shapes like ears and jagged hair?
  A: Use Satin Stitch – Arced for smooth organic curves (ears) and Satin Stitch – Straight for sharp, spiky corners (hair tufts) to avoid “mushy” corners.
  • Choose Satin Stitch – Arced when the shape needs smooth angle flow along a curve
  • Switch to Satin Stitch – Straight when corners must stay crisp and angular
  • Delete and redraw the ugly segment if the wrong tool was used (don’t keep “massaging” it)
  • Success check: corners stay sharp on screen, and curved areas look evenly fanned rather than kinked
  • If it still fails: redraw with a planned overlap between segments so fabric shift doesn’t open gaps
• Q: In Forte PD (Pantograms), how much overlap should satin segments have after deleting and redigitizing a bad area to prevent gaps in sew-out?
  A: Plan about a 1mm overlap where satin segments meet, because fabric shift can turn a perfect on-screen “kiss-touch” into a gap on the machine.
  • Delete the incorrect satin segment completely
  • Redraw the segment with the correct tool (often Straight Satin for jagged shapes)
  • Overlap start/end points slightly into the neighboring satin area
  • Success check: the join looks continuous with no visible “daylight” gap expected at the seam
  • If it still fails: re-check stabilization and hooping, because fabric movement can exaggerate separation
• Q: How do you use a travel stitch bridge in Forte PD (Pantograms) to move from the head to the left ear without trims and bird nests?
  A: Insert a short running travel stitch and make sure the next satin object fully covers it, so the machine does not stop-and-trim between sections.
  • Add a short running stitch path between the two objects (head → ear)
  • Keep the travel stitch route inside areas that will be covered by the next satin column
  • Toggle stitches on and confirm coverage before exporting
  • Success check: the travel line is completely hidden under the following satin in preview
  • If it still fails: shorten or reroute the travel stitch so it stays buried, otherwise allow a trim/tie-in where it cannot be covered
• Q: What stabilizer setup should be used to prevent satin “tunnels” and poke-through when stitching knits/tees versus slippery thin fabrics, based on the fabric + stabilizer decision tree?
  A: Match stabilization to fabric behavior first—knits need cutaway, slippery/thin fabrics often need cutaway plus better hoop control to reduce distortion.
  • Use firm tearaway for stable woven fabrics (denim/canvas) when stretch is not the issue
  • Use cutaway (mesh/poly) for knits/tees; avoid tearaway on stretchy garments
  • Use cutaway plus a magnetic hoop on slippery/thin performance fabrics to reduce puckering and hoop burn
  • Success check: fabric stays drum-tight in the hoop and satin columns sew without tunneling/pulling open
  • If it still fails: slow the machine for detail work and confirm no dark underlay lines are visible in preview before sewing
• Q: What mechanical safety steps should be followed when test-sewing satin-heavy Forte PD (Pantograms) files to prevent needle breaks from high density?
  A: Keep hands clear and stop immediately if a “thumping” sound appears, because density issues or a dull needle can deflect and shatter needles.
  • Keep hands out of the needle area during test runs, especially on dense satin columns
  • Listen for abnormal thumping and pause the machine if it starts
  • Re-check the file area for overly dense satin and confirm needle condition before continuing
  • Success check: the machine runs smoothly through the satin area with no thumping and no needle deflection
  • If it still fails: reduce speed for detail work (a common safe range is 600–750 SPM) and retest cautiously per the machine manual