A Clean, Reversible ITH Reindeer Ornament: Premier+ Stitch Order, Burlap Appliqué, and the Backing Trick That Hides Every Bobbin Thread

If you have ever excitedly pulled an in-the-hoop (ITH) ornament off your machine, turned it over, and felt your heart sink because the back looks like a "thread crime scene," you are not alone. That tangled mess of bobbin thread and stabilizer is the number one source of frustration for beginners.

Here is the truth: Making a professional, sellable reindeer ornament isn’t about luck. It is an engineering sequence.

This guide upgrades the standard YouTube tutorial into a production-grade workflow. We will cover how to manipulate stitch order in Premier+ (or any software) to hide your mechanics, how to stabilize tricky fabrics like burlap using the "sandwich method," and how to achieve a "clean" back using a floating technique.

We will also address the physical reality of embroidery—hand fatigue, fabric distortion, and when it is time to upgrade your tools from hobby–grade to production–grade.

The "Sandwich Theory": Improving Structural Integrity

ITH ornaments can feel intimidating because you are building a textile sandwich inside the hoop. You have the front face (burlap), the fillings (appliqué felt), and the back crust (backing felt).

The chaos usually happens because beginners treat the embroidery file as a static image. It is not an image; it is a set of instructions. If the machine stitches your personalized name after you attach the backing, the bobbin thread will be visible on the rear.

Your Goal: Manipulate the data so the machine stitches the name before the final backing is applied. This traps all the messy mechanics inside the sandwich, leaving you with a clean, professional exterior.

Software Engineering: Mastering Stitch Order in Premier+ 2

The software phase is "Pre-Flight." If the flight plan is wrong, the plane crashes. In most software, adding text defaults it to the end of the stitch sequence. We must intervene.

The Algorithm for Clean Backs (Premier+ / Mac Workflow)

1. Load the Asset: Open the blank ornament design.
2. Typography Selection: Choose a bold, readable font. Avoid thin scripts for textured fabrics like burlap—they get swallowed by the weave.
3. Dimensional Sizing: Set lettering to 12mm - 14mm (~0.5 inch) to fit the tag area without crowding the satin borders.
4. Input: Type the name (e.g., "Bryson").
5. Merge Data: Use the Combine All function to merge the text layer with the base design.
6. Sequence Reordering (Crucial Step):
   • Locate the text layer in the filmstrip/object list.
   • Drag or arrow-key it upwards.
   • The Rule: The name must stitch after the text box appliqué is tacked down, but before the final "backing" step.
7. Export: Save as .VP3, .PES, or your machine’s native format.

Pro Tip: If you are working within the constraints of a specific specialized area, such as a brother 4x4 embroidery hoop, stitch order discipline is even more critical. Small hoops have zero margin for error; there is no "dead space" to hide loose threads.

Material Science: Burlap, Felt, and Stabilizer physics

Burlap is trendy for that "rustic farmhouse" look, but physically, it is a nightmare. It is a loose grid of coarse fibers. If you pull it too tight, the grid distorts. If you leave it loose, the stitches pucker.

The Material Stack

• Base: Burlap (Jute).
• Appliqué: Acrylic or Wool Felt (White for tag, Tan for head).
• Backing: Matching Felt.
• Adhesive: 505 Spray (Temporary).
• Hardware: Metal Eyelet (3/16").

Decision Tree: Fabric vs. Stabilizer Choice

Use this logic flow to determine your stack construction.

INPUT: What is your base fabric?

• Choice A: Loose Weave Burlap
  • Risk: Stiches sink; fabric unravels under tension.
  • Solution: Use Heavy Cutaway Stabilizer. You may need to double the burlap layer or place a layer of felt underneath the burlap for the satin stitches to grip.
• Choice B: Craft Felt (Acrylic)
  • Risk: Minimal. Felt is stable.
  • Solution: Tearaway Stabilizer is usually sufficient, as the felt supports itself.
• Choice C: Cotton / Linen
  • Risk: Puckering (Flagging).
  • Solution: Medium Cutaway Stabilizer + iron-on fusible interfacing (like Fusible Woven) on the back of the cotton before hooping.

Prep Checklist (The "Pre-Flight" Walk)

• Needle Check: Install a fresh 75/11 Embroidery Needle or Topstitch Needle. Old needles damage burlap fibers.
• Bobbin: ensure you have at least 50% thread remaining. Running out mid-satin stitch ruins the border.
• Scissors: You need two pairs. 1. Appliqué scissors (duckbill or curved) for trimming. 2. Snips for jump threads.
• Consumables: 505 Spray, masking tape, and a lighter (to singe burlap edges if needed).
  

The Hooping Phase: Battling Distortion

Standard procedure involves hooping the burlap into a 100x100mm clamp or standard frame.

The Sensory Check: When tightening the hoop screw, the burlap needs to be "drum tight" but not "distorted tight." Look at the grid lines of the burlap weave. They must remain perpendicular (90 degrees). If they look like diamonds, you have over-stretched.

The Production Bottleneck: Hoop Burn and Hand Fatigue

If you are making one ornament for your tree, a standard plastic hoop is fine. However, if you are producing 50 ornaments for a team gift or craft fair, functionality changes.

• The Trigger: You start noticing "hoop burn" (crushed fibers) on the burlap, or your wrists ache from constantly tightening screws.
• The Solution (Scale): This is where terms like magnetic embroidery hoops become relevant.
  • Why convert? Magnetic frames clamp differently. They slap down vertically rather than wedging fabric between rings. This requires zero hand force and prevents the "drag distortion" common with burlap. It turns a 2-minute struggle into a 10-second slap.
    

Appliqué execution: The "Park and Trim" Technique

Step 1 is the Text Box.

1. Placement Line: Machine runs a single straight stitch.
2. Placement: Lay your white felt scrap over the line.
3. Tack-Down: Machine runs a double run or zigzag to hold the felt.
4. The Trim:
   • Action: Remove the hoop from the machine. Do not remove the fabric from the hoop.
   • Technique: Place the hoop on a flat surface. Using curved appliqué scissors, glide the blade against the stitch line.
   • Success Metric: You want a cut clearance of 1mm to 2mm. Any more, and it pokes out of the satin stitch. Any less, and the felt might slip out (structural failure).

Warning: Mechanical Safety. Never put your hands inside the hoop area while the machine is engaged. Always stop the machine and slide the hoop off for trimming. A startling machine movement can result in a needle through the finger.

Sequence Check: Personalization

Now, stitch the name.

Verification: Watch the machine. It should stitch "Bryson" (or your name) now—immediately after the text box satin stitch is done. If you see it skipping to the reindeer head or antlers, your file is okay. But if the stitch list ends before the name triggers, stop immediately. You likely forgot to move the name up in the sequence.

If you are running a business, consistency here is vital. A hooping station for machine embroidery can ensure your placement is identical on every single unit, preventing crooked text boxes which ruin the professional aesthetic.

The Reindeer Head: Why Felt is the Beginner’s Safety Net

Repeat the Appliqué steps for the Reindeer head using tan felt.

Why Felt? Felt is non-woven. It has no "grain" to bias pieces against. When you trim felt, it does not fray. For beginners, this removes the need for products like "Fray Check."

If you later explore specific techniques like the floating embroidery hoop method (where you don't hoop the fabric at all, but stick it to stabilizer), felt is the ideal candidate because it creates its own structure.

The Satin Stitch: Auditory Diagnostics

The machine will now stitch faces, antlers, and borders.

Sensory Anchor (Sound): Listen to your machine.

• Good Sound: A rhythmic, steady hum or "purr."
• Bad Sound: A sharp "thump-thump-thump" or a grinding noise.
• Diagnosis: A "thump" usually means the needle is struggling to penetrate the layers (Burlap + 2 layers of Felt + Stabilizer).
• The Fix: Slow down. If you are running at 1000 stitches per minute (SPM), drop to 600-700 SPM. This increases punch force and reduces needle deflection.
  

The "Clean Back" Move: Floating the Backing

This is the moment that separates amateurs from pros. We are going to hide the mess.

1. Remove Hoop: Slide the hoop off the arm. Flip it upside down.
2. Prepare Backing: Take your backing felt rectangle.
3. Adhere: Take your project to a safe zone (away from the machine). Place the felt in a cardboard box and spray lightly with 505 Spray.
4. Float: Press the adhesive side of the felt onto the back of your hoop, covering the entire embroidery area. Smooth it out from the center to edges to remove air bubbles.
   

Warning: Consumable Safety. Spray adhesives are airborne glues. Do not spray near your embroidery machine. The glue mist will settle on your bobbin hook and gears, turning into "black gunk" that seizes motors over time. Spray in a box or a different room.

The Re-Attachment: The "Waiter's Hand" Technique

The most common failure point is the backing peeling off as you slide the hoop back onto the machine.

The Fix: Use the "Waiter's Hand." Support the hoop from the bottom with your palm spread flat, holding the felt against the stabilizer as you slide the mechanism into the machine arm. Do not let go until the hoop clicks into the locked position.

For those doing volume work, minimizing this friction is key. Many professionals creating assembly lines for ornaments utilize a magnetic hooping station or specialized tables to keep prep efficient, though simple hand support works for small batches.

The Final Seal and Trim

Run the final color stop. The machine will stitch a bean stitch or satin stitch around the entire perimeter of the reindeer.

Physics of the Stitch: This stitch goes through Front Burlap + Stabilizer + Backing Felt. It seals the sandwich. Visual Check: Once done, turn the hoop over. You should see a clean outline on the felt. No "rats nest" of thread.

Rustic Trimming

Remove the project from the hoop. Peel away the stabilizer. Now, trim the burlap/felt sandwich.

Aesthetic Choice:

• For a Clean Look: Trim 3mm from the stitching.
• For a Rustic Look: Trim 5-8mm away and fray the burlap edges slightly with your thumb.
  

Hardware Installation: The Crop-A-Dile

Do not rely on the "stitched eyelet" in the file—it often looks cheap.

1. Punch: Use a leather punch or the Crop-A-Dile punch setting to create a hole at the top.
2. Insert: Place a 3/16" metal eyelet.
3. Set: Squeeze the tool to crimp the back.

This metal finish catches the light and adds perceived value to the product.

Troubleshooting Guide: Structured Diagnostics

Commercial Viability: From Hobby to Production

If you successfully make one ornament, you feel pride. If you have to make 50, you feel pain. This is the natural lifecycle of an embroiderer.

At some point, the friction of standard tools becomes the enemy of profit.

1. The Friction: Traditional hoops leave "burn marks" and require constant re-tightening.
   • The Upgrade: Magnetic Hoops. They hold thick sandwiches (like Burlap+Felt) without crushing the fibers and allow for 5-second hooping.
2. The Friction: Changing threads 6 times per ornament kills momentum.
   • The Upgrade: SEWTECH Multi-Needle Machines. If you are serious about selling, moving from a single-needle flatbed to a multi-needle machine allows you to set up the job and walk away while it completes all colors automatically.

Mastering the "how" (techniques like hooping for embroidery machine optimization) is step one. Mastering the "what" (the right tools for the volume) is step two.

Warning: Magnet Safety. If you upgrade to magnetic hoops, be aware they use Neodymium magnets. They are incredibly strong. Keep them away from pacemakers, small children, and magnetic storage media. They can pinch fingers severely if handled carelessly.

Operation Checklist: The "Green Light" Protocol

• Files: Stitch order verified (Name BEFORE Backing).
• Consumables: 505 Spray is ready; felt patches pre-cut to size.
• Hoop: Burlap is taut and grid is square (90 degrees).
• Appliqué: Placement -> Tack -> TRIM CLOSE.
• Float: Backing felt is adhered smooth; support underneath during insertion.
• Final: Machine speed reduced for final dense border layers.
• Hardware: Eyelet set cleanly; ribbon attatched.
  

FAQ

• Q: How do I change stitch order in Premier+ 2 so an ITH ornament name stitches before the backing and the felt back looks clean?
  A: Move the text object to stitch after the text-box tackdown but before the final backing/perimeter step, so the bobbin “mess” gets trapped inside the sandwich.
  • Use Combine All to merge the name with the base design, then open the object/filmstrip list.
  • Drag/arrow the text layer upward until it sits after the text-box appliqué is attached and before the backing/final seal step.
  • Re-save/export in the machine format you will stitch.
  • Success check: during stitching, the machine sews the name right after the text box is finished—not at the very end after backing is on.
  • If it still fails, stop the stitch-out and re-check that the text did not remain as the last object in the sequence.
• Q: How do I hoop loose-weave burlap for an ITH reindeer ornament without distorting the grid lines?
  A: Hoop burlap “drum tight” but stop before the weave turns into diamonds—square grid lines are the pass/fail test.
  • Tighten the hoop screw gradually while watching the burlap weave.
  • Stop tightening as soon as the weave stays at 90° (straight vertical/horizontal threads) and feels taut.
  • Pair burlap with heavy cutaway stabilizer when the weave is loose.
  • Success check: the burlap grid remains square (not skewed), and the fabric feels firm but not stretched out of shape.
  • If it still fails, reduce hoop tension and rebuild the stack with heavier stabilizer support before stitching dense borders.
• Q: What stabilizer stack should I use for an ITH ornament on burlap vs craft felt vs cotton/linen to prevent sinking stitches and puckering?
  A: Match stabilizer to fabric behavior: burlap needs heavy cutaway support, felt can use tearaway, and cotton/linen often needs cutaway plus fusible interfacing.
  • Choose heavy cutaway for loose-weave burlap; add an extra support layer (often a second burlap layer or felt underlay) if satin stitches have nothing to “grab.”
  • Choose tearaway for craft felt (acrylic) because felt is already stable.
  • Choose medium cutaway + fusible woven interfacing (applied before hooping) for cotton/linen to reduce flagging/puckering.
  • Success check: satin borders sit on top of the fabric (not sinking), and the design stays flat without ripples around dense stitching.
  • If it still fails, slow the machine for dense areas and confirm the base fabric is not being over-stretched in the hoop.
• Q: What causes backing felt wrinkles when floating backing felt with 505 spray for a clean-back ITH ornament, and how do I stop the backing felt from shifting during re-insertion?
  A: Wrinkles usually come from the backing felt shifting as the hoop slides back onto the machine—support the felt from underneath during insertion.
  • Spray 505 lightly in a safe area (like a box) and press the backing felt onto the underside smoothly from center outward.
  • Use the “Waiter’s Hand” support: hold the hoop from below with a flat palm to keep the felt pressed in place while re-attaching.
  • Re-check adhesion before running the final perimeter seal stitch.
  • Success check: after the final stitch, the back shows a smooth felt surface with a clean outline and no puckers.
  • If it still fails, remove the final stitches, re-spray/re-float the backing, and re-stitch the sealing step.
• Q: How do I prevent needle breaks on dense satin borders when stitching burlap + felt + stabilizer stacks on an embroidery machine?
  A: Slow down and start with a fresh needle—dense multi-layer borders often break needles when speed is too high or layers are resistant.
  • Install a fresh 75/11 embroidery needle (old needles snag and deflect in burlap).
  • Reduce speed from high speeds to about 600–700 SPM for the densest border runs.
  • Clean sticky residue off the needle if adhesive transfer occurs; replace the needle immediately after a break.
  • Success check: the machine sound becomes a steady “purr” (not a repeated thump/grind) and stitches form without impact jolts.
  • If it still fails, pause and check for adhesive buildup and excessive layer thickness at the border area before continuing.
• Q: What should I do if bobbin thread is showing on top when stitching an ITH ornament (especially after dense satin areas)?
  A: Treat it as a tension/cleanliness issue first—re-seat the bobbin and clean/floss the tension path before chasing settings.
  • Re-seat the bobbin correctly and confirm the bobbin thread is feeding smoothly.
  • “Floss” the upper tension discs/path to remove lint and debris that can change tension behavior.
  • Adjust top tension slightly only if needed, especially when using thicker threads (use the machine manual as the final reference).
  • Success check: top stitches are clean in the intended top color, and bobbin thread no longer peeks through on the design surface.
  • If it still fails, stop and inspect the bobbin area for lint/dust buildup affecting consistent tension.
• Q: What embroidery safety rules should beginners follow when trimming ITH appliqué felt and using 505 spray adhesive near an embroidery machine?
  A: Stop the machine and move the hoop away before trimming, and never spray adhesive near the machine—both are common causes of injuries and long-term machine gunk.
  • Stop the machine completely and slide the hoop off before trimming appliqué; never place fingers inside the hoop area while the machine is engaged.
  • Trim on a flat surface with appliqué scissors, keeping blades against the stitch line for control.
  • Spray 505 in a separate area (ideally in a box) so adhesive mist does not settle into the bobbin hook/gears.
  • Success check: trimming is controlled with no accidental hoop movement, and the machine area stays clean (no sticky residue forming over time).
  • If it still fails, pause the project and clean any visible adhesive/lint before continuing dense stitching steps.
• Q: When hoop burn and wrist pain happen during batch ITH ornament production, when should I switch from standard hoops to magnetic embroidery hoops or upgrade to a multi-needle embroidery machine?
  A: Use a tiered fix: first optimize technique, then reduce hooping friction with magnetic hoops, then consider a multi-needle machine if thread changes are killing throughput.
  • Level 1 (Technique): correct hoop tension (square burlap grid), trim appliqué close (1–2 mm clearance), and slow dense borders to 600–700 SPM.
  • Level 2 (Tool): switch to magnetic embroidery hoops when repeated screw-tightening causes wrist fatigue or hoop burn/crushed fibers in burlap.
  • Level 3 (Capacity): consider a multi-needle embroidery machine when frequent color changes are the main time sink across many ornaments.
  • Success check: hooping time drops dramatically, fabric shows fewer crush marks, and batch consistency improves without constant rework.
  • If it still fails, reassess the material stack (stabilizer choice and thickness) and standardize a repeatable prep routine before scaling further.