Christmas Village Quilt, Women of the World, and Tiny ITH Charms: How to Actually Stitch the Anita Goodesign All Access July 2019 Book Without Wasting Fabric

If you’ve ever watched an embroidery collection flip-through and thought, “I love it… but where do I even start without ruining expensive fabric, picking the wrong hoop, or just giving up halfway through,” you are in the right place.

Embroidery is an experience science. We can talk theory all day, but until needle meets fabric, it’s all hypothetical. This guide takes the visual inspiration from the Anita Goodesign All Access July 2019 “Christmas in July” book and transforms it into a production-ready battle plan.

Whether you are a hobbyist chasing your first perfect finish or a studio owner looking for repeatable profit, we will break this down by risk, technique, and the specific tools—from stabilizers into Magnetic Hoops—that bridge the gap between "good effort" and "professional result."

Unboxing the "Christmas in July" Book—Pick Your First Win (Not Your First Headache)

The video opens with that familiar excitement: the white shipping box, the tape slice, the cover reveal. That dopamine hit is real—but here is the veteran move: do not let excitement choose your first project.

Embroidery has a learning curve. To build confidence, choose your first project based on Hoop Count, Fabric Risk, and Finishing Complexity.

• Low Risk (The Confidence Builder): Start with Notebook Charms or Jar Lid Ornaments. These require minimal fabric, use standard felt or vinyl, and finish quickly. If you mess up, you’ve lost 50 cents of material.
• Medium Risk (The Skill Builder): The Christmas Village Quilt. It is repetitive (which is good for learning), but it requires precision alignment.
• High Risk (The Masterpiece): The Women of the World Tile Scene or the Crazy Quilt Tree Skirt. These require assembling multiple heavy panels. Save these for when your machine tension and hooping technique are dialed in.

One viewer joked that the flip-through "costs money" because it makes you buy the book. The real cost isn't the book—it's the wasted stabilizer, mis-cut fabric, and the frustration of a project that puckers. We are here to prevent that.

Women of the World Tile Scenes: How to Keep Faces Crisp Across 6 Panels

The "Women of the World" section features six-block tile scenes sewn together into a portrait. Realistic faces are the "final boss" of embroidery; a millimeter of shift turns a beautiful portrait into a distorted mess.

The Physics of Tile Scenes

A six-panel scene means you are hooping six separate times.

• The Problem: If Panel A is hooped at 100% tension (drum tight) and Panel B is at 80% tension (slightly loose), the stitches will pull the fabric differently. When you sew them together, the eyes won't align.
• The Solution: You need mechanical consistency.

The Fabric Note You Cannot Skip

The guide calls for 1.5 yards of muslin for backing. This isn't random. Muslin provides a stable, non-stretchy foundation.

Professional Procedure for Tile Alignment

1. Grain Direction: Cut all six background blocks from the same piece of fabric, ensuring the grain runs vertically on all of them. Fabric stretches differently across the grain vs. with the grain.
2. Sensory Hooping Check: When mastering the art of hooping for embroidery machine, reliability is key. Tap the fabric in the hoop. It should sound like a dull thud, not a high-pitched ping (too tight) or a rustle (too loose).
3. The "Float" Technique: If you struggle to hoop muslin perfectly, hoop your stabilizer tight and use a temporary spray adhesive to "float" the muslin on top. This reduces hoop burn/distortion significantly.
   

The "Materials & Notions List" Page Is Your Profit Saver

Beginners skim this page; professionals live by it. The hosts specifically mention checking the list for the Tree Skirt.

How to Read the List Like a Production Manager

Don’t just buy "stabilizer." Translate the list into a Consumables Matrix:

1. Fabric Type: Determine the weight. Denim needs different support than Quilting Cotton.
2. Stabilizer: Do you have enough Cut-Away for the stretchy items and Tear-Away for the stable ones?
3. Hidden Consumables: Do you have spray adhesive (e.g., 505 Spray)? Do you have fresh needles (Size 75/11 for detail, 90/14 for denim)?

Prep Checklist (Do NOT Skip)

• Hoop Check: Confirm your machine has the required hoop sizes (Designs compatible with A, B, C sizes).
• Needle Swap: Install a fresh Organ or Schmetz needle. A dull needle pushes fabric rather than piercing it, causing puckering.
• Bobbin Batching: Pre-wind at least 5 bobbins. Nothing kills workflow like stopping to wind a bobbin mid-satin stitch.
• Test Stitch: Run a small element on a scrap of your actual project fabric.
• Calibration: Check your tension. The bobbin thread (usually white) should show as a thin 1/3 strip down the center of the satin stitch on the back of the fabric.

The Christmas Village Quilt: Turning "Massive" Into "Manageable"

This is the hero project. It looks intimidating, but it is just a series of small, repetitive tasks.

The Hidden Reality: Repetition Fatigue

The quilt works because of repetition. But repetition hurts. If you are using a standard hoop with a screw mechanism:

1. Loosen screw.
2. Push inner ring out.
3. Sandwich fabric.
4. Push inner ring in (struggle with thickness).
5. Tighten screw (painful on wrists after block #5).
6. Pull fabric to remove wrinkles (risk of distortion).

This is where magnetic embroidery hoops become a production necessity, not just a luxury. A magnetic hoop clamps the fabric instantly without screws. There is no "push and pull." You lay the fabric, snap the top frame, and stitch. For a 20-block quilt, this saves hours of physical labor and guarantees that Block #1 has the exact same tension as Block #20.

Setup Checklist (The "Assembly Line" Method)

• Batch Cutting: Cut all background squares at once.
• Applique Prep: If using a cutting machine (ScanNCut/Cricut), cut all applique shapes beforehand.
• Stabilizer Pre-Cut: Cut your stabilizer sheets to size so you can grab-and-go.
• Hooping Station: Clear a flat surface. If you are doing volume, this is where helpful tools like hooping stations pay for themselves by keeping your placement identical every time.

Warning: Physical Safety
Applique trimming puts your fingers millimeters away from a sharp needle. Always stop the machine completely (or engage "Needle Safety" mode) before reaching in to trim. Use Double-Curved Applique Scissors (Duckbill) to keep your hand elevated above the fabric.

Decision Tree: Fabric → Stabilizer Choice

Use this logic flow to make the right choice every time.

1. Is the fabric stable with ZERO stretch (e.g., Quilting Cotton, Denim, Canvas)?

• YES: Use Tear-Away. It supports the stitches but removes cleanly from the back.
  • Pro Tip: If the design is very dense (>10,000 stitches), float a layer of Tear-Away under the hoop for extra support.
• NO: Go to step 2.

2. Does the fabric stretch or drape (e.g., T-shirt, Knit, Minky, some Linens)?

• YES: You MUST use Cut-Away (Poly-mesh or Medium Weight).
  • Why? Needle penetrations cut the fibers. If you tear the stabilizer away, the fabric will eventually disintegrate and the embroidery will distort. Cut-Away provides permanent structural support.
• NO: Go to step 3.

3. Is the fabric "fluffy" or textured (e.g., Towel, Velvet, Fleece)?

• YES: Use Water Soluble Topper (Solvy) on top to prevent stitches from sinking. Use Cut-Away on the bottom.
• NO: Default to standard advice (Medium tear-away).
  

Applique: Clean Edges Come from Timing, Not Talent

The video shows step-by-step applique pages. The difference between "homemade" and "handmade" is the edge.

The Sensory Check for Applique

• Visual: After the "Tack Down" stitch, the fabric should be flat. If there is a bubble, stop. Iron it or re-hoop.
• Tactile: When trimming, you should feel the scissors gliding against the stitch ridge.
• The "Hairy" Edge: If you see fabric poking through the final Satin Stitch, you didn't trim close enough.
  • Fix: Use fine-point tweezers to lift the "hairs" and snip them before the final stitch pass.
    

Crazy Quilt Tree Skirt: The "Big Project" Workflow

This project involves mixing styles, continuous line applique, and heavy assembly.

The "Heavy Fabric" Problem

A tree skirt involves layers of batting and fabric. Standard plastic hoops struggle here—they pop open or leave "hoop burn" (crushed fibers) that won't iron out.

• Solution Level 1: Wrap your plastic inner hoop with bias binding tape to increase grip.
• Solution Level 2: Upgrade to a magnetic frame. The magnets adjust automatically to thickness, holding batting as securely as cotton without crushing the fibers.

If you plan to sell these, calculate your time. A single-needle machine requires a thread change every 2-5 minutes on crazy quilts.

• Business Escalation: If you have orders for 10 skirts, a single-needle machine will bottle-neck you. This is the trigger point to consider a multi-needle machine (like a SEWTECH commercial model), which can hold 15 colors at once and run at 1000 stitches per minute (SPM).
  

"Chrysalis" Fabric: Thread Palette Discipline

When using designer fabric (like the Stephen Wilson collection), your thread choice makes or breaks the look.

• The Rule: Do not "almost match." If the fabric has a specific Teal, and your thread is slightly different, it will look like a mistake.
• The Fix: Either match perfectly (bring the fabric to the store) or Contrast boldly.
  

Merry Mylar: Shine Without the tears

Mylar reflects light through low-density stitching. It’s beautiful but fussy.

Troubleshooting Mylar

• Symptom: Mylar tears out during stitching.
  • Cause: Needle is too large or blunt. Use a 75/11 Sharp.
• Symptom: Mylar shifts under the stitches.
  • Fix: Tape the Mylar down at the corners with painter's tape.
• Symptom: Dull shine.
  • Fix: Do not use a heavy Water Soluble Topper over Mylar; it dulls the reflection. Tear away excess Mylar gently.
    

Echo Stitched Christmas: The Unforgiving "Line Art"

Simple line art is actually the hardest to stitch because there is nowhere to hide imperfections.

• Speed Control: Slow your machine down. If your machine can do 800 SPM, run line art at 600 SPM. This reduces vibration and increases accuracy.
• Stability: If you are using a magnetic hooping station setup, ensure your stabilizer is taut. Any slack in the stabilizer will cause the outline to fail to meet the start/stop points.
  

Produce Bags: The Functional Product Line

Embroidery on mesh produce bags is a sleeper hit for small businesses. It’s eco-friendly and practical.

• Tip: You cannot hoop mesh tightly or it will warp. Use a sticky (adhesive) stabilizer, stick the mesh to it, and use a basting box to secure it before the design starts.
  

Notebook Charms (ITH): Micro-Precision

In-The-Hoop (ITH) projects are engineering marvels.

Operation Checklist for Small Items

• Scallop Check: Ensure your scissors are sharp. Cutting scallops with dull scissors leaves frayed edges.
• Elastic Security: Tape the elastic tails down outside the stitch area so they don't get caught in the needle.
• The Pivot: For small charms, a smaller hoop is better. A brother 4x4 embroidery hoop provides better tension for tiny items than trying to float a 2-inch charm in a giant 8x12 hoop.

Jar Lid Ornaments: Finishing is Your Brand

Hot glue is mentioned, but be careful.

• The "Spiderweb" Test: Cheap hot glue leaves strings. Invest in high-temp industrial glue sticks.
• Centering: A subtle misalignment on a round circle is immediately visible. Use a template (print the design on paper) to center your fabric before gluing.
  

Denim Buttons: Small Designs, Big Force

Denim is tough.

• Needle: Use a Jeans Needle (90/14 or 100/16).
• Hooping: Denim resists hooping. If you struggle to get it into a standard hoop, a repositionable embroidery hoop can help you adjust the fabric without undoing the entire mechanism.

The 5x7 Hoop Myth

Do you need a giant machine? No.

• Fact: Most "big" projects (like the Village Quilt) are made of smaller blocks that fit effectively in a 5x7 field.
• Upgrade Utility: A brother 5x7 magnetic hoop is often the single best upgrade for a mid-range machine owner. It mimics the ease of industrial framing on a home machine.

Resizing: The 10% Rule

The video discusses resizing files.

• The Physics: Stitches are physical objects. If you shrink a design by 50%, the stitch count stays the same (unless your software recalculates). The stitches will stack on top of each other, break needles, and create a bulletproof stiff patch.
• The Rule: Do not resize more than 10-15% without specialized software recalculation.

The Upgrade Path: A Business Logic Model

Don't throw money at problems; throw money at solutions.

1. Level 1: Stabilizer & Needles (The Foundation)
   • If you have puckers, buy better stabilizer and fresh needles. This solves 80% of problems.
2. Level 2: Magnetic Hoops (The Workflow Accelerator)
   • If you are tired of hoop burn, wrist pain, or slow batching, upgrade to magnetic hoops. This solves consistency and speed issues.
   • > Warning: Magnetic Safety

STRONG MAGNETS. Do not place magnetic hoops near heart pacemakers or magnetic storage media. Keep fingers clear of the "snap zone" to avoid painful pinching.

1. Level 3: Multi-Needle Machines (The Scale Solution)
   • If you are turning down orders because you can't stitch fast enough, or if you spend more time changing thread than stitching, it is time for a SEWTECH multi-needle machine. This solves capacity issues.

Final Veteran Recommendation

Start with the Notebook Charms. They teach you placement, trimming, and ITH logic with zero risk. Once you master those, move to the Christmas Village Quilt blocks using your new consistent hooping workflow. Enjoy the process!

FAQ

• Q: What hidden consumables should be prepared before stitching Anita Goodesign “Christmas in July” projects on a home embroidery machine?
  A: Prepare stabilizer, fresh needles, spray adhesive, and pre-wound bobbins before starting to avoid mid-design failures.
  • Stock: Confirm Tear-Away and Cut-Away quantities match the fabric types in the Materials & Notions list.
  • Swap: Install a fresh Organ or Schmetz needle (75/11 for detail work; 90/14 for denim per project needs).
  • Batch: Pre-wind at least 5 bobbins and stage them next to the machine.
  • Success check: The machine runs a full test element on scrap without puckering or thread shredding.
  • If it still fails… Re-check fabric-to-stabilizer pairing and run a second test with the exact same layers you will use in the real hooping.
• Q: How can embroidery machine tension be checked using the “one-third bobbin strip” rule on satin stitches?
  A: Use a test stitch and adjust until the bobbin thread shows as a thin 1/3 strip down the center of the satin stitch on the back of the fabric.
  • Stitch: Run a small satin element on scrap using the actual fabric + stabilizer stack.
  • Inspect: Flip the sample and look for the bobbin thread centered (not wide, not missing).
  • Adjust: Make only one tension change at a time and re-test.
  • Success check: The back shows a clean, narrow bobbin “rail” centered under the satin.
  • If it still fails… Replace the needle and re-run the test; a dull needle can mimic tension problems by pushing fabric and causing puckers.
• Q: How can consistent hooping tension be verified for multi-panel embroidery tile scenes like the “Women of the World” 6-block portraits?
  A: Standardize grain direction and use a repeatable hooping “feel” so each panel pulls the same during stitching.
  • Cut: Cut all six background blocks from the same fabric piece with grain running vertically on every block.
  • Tap-test: Tap the hooped fabric—aim for a dull thud (not a high ping and not a rustle).
  • Float: Hoop stabilizer tight, then use temporary spray adhesive to float muslin on top if hooping distortion is a problem.
  • Success check: Panel-to-panel alignment stays consistent when sewn together (faces and eyes do not drift).
  • If it still fails… Re-hoop the outlier panel(s) and prioritize matching hooping tension over “drum tight” hooping.
• Q: How can repetition fatigue and hoop burn be reduced when stitching many quilt blocks on a home embroidery machine using a screw-type hoop?
  A: Switch to a magnetic hooping method for fast clamping and repeatable tension across every block.
  • Batch: Pre-cut background squares and stabilizer sheets so hooping becomes a simple repeatable step.
  • Clamp: Lay fabric, snap the magnetic top frame on, and stitch—avoid push/pull tightening cycles.
  • Standardize: Keep the same hooping station surface and placement routine for every block.
  • Success check: Block #1 and Block #20 show the same fabric tension with minimal crushed fibers or ring marks.
  • If it still fails… Use the “float” method (hoop stabilizer tight + adhesive) to reduce distortion on sensitive fabrics before changing any machine settings.
• Q: What stabilizer should be used for Quilting Cotton vs T-shirt knits vs towels when following the fabric-to-stabilizer decision tree for embroidery?
  A: Match stabilizer to fabric behavior: Tear-Away for stable fabrics, Cut-Away for stretch, and topper + Cut-Away for fluffy textures.
  • Choose: Use Tear-Away for quilting cotton/denim/canvas (stable, zero stretch).
  • Support: Use Cut-Away (poly-mesh or medium weight) for T-shirts/knits/minky (stretch or drape).
  • Prevent sink: Add water-soluble topper on top for towels/velvet/fleece, with Cut-Away underneath.
  • Success check: Stitches sit on top cleanly without puckering, distortion, or sinking into pile.
  • If it still fails… Add an extra floated layer under the hoop for dense designs, and re-test on scrap using the same fabric stack.
• Q: What needle size and handling steps prevent Mylar from tearing or shifting during “Merry Mylar” embroidery?
  A: Use a sharp 75/11 needle and secure Mylar corners so the film doesn’t perforate and rip or slide.
  • Replace: Install a new 75/11 Sharp needle (avoid large or blunt needles).
  • Tape: Tape Mylar at the corners with painter’s tape to stop shifting.
  • Avoid dulling: Do not cover Mylar with a heavy water-soluble topper that reduces shine.
  • Success check: Mylar stays trapped under low-density stitches without shredding, and the shine remains bright.
  • If it still fails… Slow the machine slightly and re-check that the needle is truly new and sharp.
• Q: What safety steps should be followed when trimming applique near an embroidery machine needle, and what scissors reduce injury risk?
  A: Stop the machine completely before trimming and use double-curved duckbill applique scissors to keep fingers away from the needle zone.
  • Stop: Fully stop the machine (or engage a needle safety mode if available) before hands go near the needle.
  • Use: Trim with double-curved applique scissors (duckbill) to lift the hand above the fabric.
  • Stage: Keep trimming tools at the hooping station so you don’t reach across a moving area.
  • Success check: Fingers never enter the “needle path,” and trimmed edges stay clean without accidental nicks.
  • If it still fails… Reposition the hoop for better access and lighting rather than trimming while the needle area is cramped.
• Q: What magnetic hoop safety rules should be followed when using strong magnetic embroidery hoops near tools and medical devices?
  A: Treat magnetic hoops as high-force tools: keep them away from pacemakers and magnetic media, and keep fingers clear of the snap zone.
  • Distance: Do not use or store magnetic hoops near heart pacemakers or magnetic storage media.
  • Control: Lower the top frame carefully—do not “drop” it onto the bottom frame.
  • Protect: Keep fingertips out of the clamp area to avoid painful pinching.
  • Success check: The hoop closes without finger contact and holds fabric securely without sudden snapping.
  • If it still fails… Slow down the clamping motion and set up a clear, flat hooping surface to prevent accidental misalignment and snap closures.