Embroider Right on the Towel Hem: Using a Magnetic Embroidery Hoop on the Husqvarna Viking Ruby Royale (No Hoop Burn, No Drama)

If you’ve ever tried to embroider close to the hem of a kitchen towel, you already know the feeling: you can see the perfect placement in your head, but a standard screw hoop simply won’t cooperate. You either can’t physically hoop the difficult area because the hardware gets in the way, or you crank the hoop tight enough to secure the thick hem and end up crushing the fabric fibers—leaving you with a “hoop burn” that won’t iron out. Suddenly, a sellable product becomes a garage rag.

The video you watched is a clean, beginner-friendly demo of a Sew Tech–style magnetic embroidery hoop on a Husqvarna Viking Ruby Royale. The presenter uses a technique called "floating": draping the towel over the bottom frame, locking it down with strong magnets, and stitching a built-in multi-color design. She proves the point every shop owner cares about: secure hold near the edge, clean stitching, and zero fabric damage.

Below is that same workflow, rebuilt into a production-ready process. I have added the "why" behind the physics, the sensory checks that prevent rework, and the upgrade paths that make sense when you transition from doing one towel for grandma to doing fifty for a corporate order.

Magnetic Embroidery Hoop Basics: Why Those Yellow-Labeled Magnets Matter When You’re Stitching Near an Edge

The presenter starts by showing the hoop’s core features: very strong rectangular magnets, a textured flocking surface on the frame to resist slipping, and a grid template for alignment. Those three details are not marketing fluff—they are the mechanical difference between “it stitched okay once” and “I can repeat this all week without surprises.”

Here’s what is happening mechanically, and why it solves the "thick hem" problem:

• Magnet clamping force replaces radial screw pressure. With a traditional hoop, you must tighten the screw to generate friction around the entire ring. When you have a thick hem on one side and thin fabric on the other, the hoop forces the thin side to loose tension or crushes the thick side. That is simple physics. Magnetic clamping applies vertical pressure independently at each point. You get stability without crushing the fibers.
• Flocking increases friction at the contact surface. Towels (terry cloth) and canvas love to "creep" or shift microscopically under the vibration of the needle. The velvet-like texture on the hoop frame grips the fibers, reducing micro-sliding during rapid direction changes.
• Segmented magnets let you “micro-adjust.” Instead of un-hooping the entire project to fix a 2mm alignment error, you can simply lift one magnet, tug the fabric a hair to straighten the grain, and snap it back.

One non-negotiable from the demonstration: the hoop uses a machine-specific attachment bracket. The presenter explicitly warns to buy the version that matches your machine brand/model (Husqvarna in this case). That is not a suggestion—it is critical geometry. If you use a universal bracket that doesn't account for your machine's arm clearance, you risk the hoop striking the needle bar.

Warning: Pinch Hazard. Keep fingers clear when seating strong magnets. Pinch injuries happen fast, especially when you are pulling fabric taut with one hand and snapping a magnet down with the other. Hold the magnet by the handle edges, not the underside.

The “Hidden” Prep That Saves Towels: Stabilizer Choice, Grain Direction, and a Quick Reality Check

In the demo, the presenter chooses a wash-away stabilizer because the towel will be used in the kitchen, and she wants a clean finish that dissolves after the first rinse. That is a solid choice for light designs or "sketch" style embroidery. However, expert experience dictates we need to look closer at the fabric structure.

What you’re trying to control (the physics, in plain English)

Embroidery on a towel hem creates a "High-Risk Zone" for three reasons:

1. Variable Thickness: The hem is 3x different thickness than the towel body.
2. Compression & Rebound: Terry loops compress under the presser foot and bounce back, creating drag.
3. Low Anchor Point: You are stitching close to an edge, meaning there is less fabric surrounding the needle to absorb the physical shock of the needle penetration.

Your goal is to create a "stitching window" that is drum-tight and mathematically flat.

Prep Checklist (Do this before you even touch the magnets)

• Attachment Verification: Confirm the hoop bracket clicks firmly onto your Husqvarna (or your specific machine). If it wobbles, stop.
• Stabilizer Selection: The video uses wash-away. Pro Tip: If your design has a high stitch count (over 10,000 stitches) or dense tatami fills, wash-away may not support it enough. Switch to a Cut-Away stabilizer for stability, or use a sticky wash-away for better grip.
• The "Hidden" Consumable: Use a light mist of Temporary Spray Adhesive (like 505) on your stabilizer. This prevents the towel from "bubbling" in the center during stitching.
• Design Clearance: digitally or physically measure the distance from the needle to the hem. Ensure the foot won't hit the folded edge.
• Fresh Needle: Towels are thick. Use a fresh 75/11 or 80/12 needle. A dull needle will push the towel loops rather than piercing them, causing skipped stitches.

At this stage, you are setting yourself up for the video’s main advantage: you can float the towel where you want it, rather than forcing the towel to fit inside a rigid plastic circle.

The Floating Method on a Kitchen Towel Hem: Position the Fabric First, Then Let the Magnets Do the Work

The presenter explains the key constraint: her design needs to land down toward the end of the towel (the hem), but the fabric is too short to reach the top of the hoop if she were to use a traditional inner/outer ring setup. So she uses the floating technique—laying the towel over the bottom frame only.

This is the moment where many beginners accidentally build wrinkles into the job. The fix is simple: treat placement like a two-step process—position first, then apply tension.

What the video does (and what you should copy)

1. Lay the stabilizer (and the towel) over the bottom hoop frame.
2. Place the hem area where the design needs to land—close to the bottom edge.
3. Use the template grid provided with the hoop to square the placement visually.

A standard hoop makes this nearly impossible because you have to push the inner ring into the towel. A magnetic hoop essentially acts as a clamp table. If you have heard people call this a floating embroidery hoop method, this is exactly what they mean: the fabric is “floating” over the hoop base, supported by stabilizer and clamped from the top.

Lock It Down Without Wrinkles: How to Apply Magnets So the Towel Goes Drum-Tight (Not Distorted)

In the video, the presenter slides magnets directly over the edges to sandwich everything against the bottom frame. She gently pulls the fabric taut as she applies side magnets, and adds extra magnets along the side because the towel doesn’t reach the full end of the hoop.

That sequence is correct—but let's define the "feel" of it.

A reliable magnet placement pattern (The "Cross-Anchor" Technique)

To ensure zero movement on heavy fabrics like towels or canvas:

1. Anchor the Top: Place one magnet at the top (away from the hem) to hold the stabilizer and towel.
2. Pull the Slack: Gently pull the hem end toward you. You want to remove slack, not stretch the towel loops out of shape.
3. Anchor the Bottom: Place the magnet over the hem area.
4. The "Dental Floss" Check: Tap the fabric in the center. It should sound dull but firm, like a drum. If you push it and it ripples, it's too loose.
5. Side Security: Add the side magnets. If the fabric doesn't span the full hoop (as seen in the video), add extra magnets where the fabric edge ends. This prevents the "fluttering" that causes registration errors.

The presenter demonstrates the biggest practical advantage: if alignment is off, you simply lift one magnet and adjust—no full re-hoop required.

Warning: Maintain Safety Distance. Magnetic hoops use industrial-grade neodymium magnets. Keep them away from pacemakers, insulin pumps, and implanted medical devices (maintain at least 6-12 inches distance). Do not store magnets against smartphones, credit cards, or USB drives.

Setup Checklist (Right before you mount the hoop on the machine)

• Tactile Check: Run your fingertips across the stitch field. Do you feel a "bubble" or air pocket? If yes, smooth it out and re-clamp.
• Transition Check: Look at the hem transition. The thicker hem should not be "lifting" the towel body up; the magnet should bridge that transition smoothly.
• Stabilizer Coverage: Confirm the stabilizer extends at least 1 inch past the design area on all sides.
• The Tug Test: Give the towel a gentle tug. If it slides under the magnet, the magnet isn't seated on the metal frame correctly.
• Hoop Orientation: Ensure the attachment bracket is on the correct side for your machine.

If you are building a repeatable workflow for a small business, many shops treat this as a mini magnetic hooping station routine—same magnet order, same tactile checks, every single time.

Mounting the Husqvarna Viking Ruby Royale Hoop Attachment: The Calm, Correct Way to Load Before You Stitch

The video shows the hoop attachment sliding onto the machine arm. The presenter then loads the file. This looks simple, but this is a critical mechanical interface.

Two expert notes that prevent expensive mistakes (generally true across brands—always defer to your manual):

1. Listen for the Click: When sliding the magnetic hoop onto the embroidery arm, verify it is fully seated. On many machines, you will hear or feel a mechanical "click." If the hoop isn't locked, the X-axis movement will vibrate it loose, ruining the design in seconds.
2. The "Baby-Sitting" Phase: For a towel hem, watch the first 100 stitches like a hawk. Towels will tell you immediately if something is wrong: you’ll see the fabric "flagging" (bouncing up and down with the needle), or you'll hear the "thump-thump" of the needle struggling.

Stitching the Built-In Multi-Color Design: What “Secure Hold” Looks Like While the Needle Is Moving

The presenter runs a multi-color floral/snowflake-style design. The key observation regarding the magnetic hoop is stability. Even though the design is uncomfortably close to the bottom edge, the fabric does not shift.

When a towel is properly stabilized and tensioned, you should see:

• Flatness: The towel surface stays flat as the needle changes direction. It shouldn't ripple like a wave.
• Registration: The colors line up perfectly. If you see a gap between a fill and an outline, your hoop tension was too loose.
• No "Birdnests": The presenter notes no knots on the back. While hooping helps, this is also about speed.

Expert Speed Setting: For bulky towels, do not run your machine at max speed (e.g., 1000 stitches per minute). Slow it down to the 500-700 SPM range. This gives the thread tension system time to recover as it passes over the thick loops of the towel, preventing thread breaks.

Realigning Mid-Setup (Without Starting Over): The One-Magnet Lift That Fixes Fabric Misalignment

The video briefly touches on a massive workflow benefit: ease of adjustment. If the towel looks slightly crooked after you have placed it on the hoop but before you stitch, you don't have to start over.

You can lift one magnet segment, tug the fabric to align it with the grid, and snap it back. Traditional hoops punish small placement errors with a full 5-minute reset process. Magnetic hoops allow for 5-second corrections.

If you are shopping specifically for a magnetic hoop for husqvarna viking, this “lift-and-reseat” capability is one of the most practical reasons people switch. It reduces the frustration hurdle significantly.

Clean Release, No Hoop Burn: How to Remove Magnets and Inspect the Stitching Like a Pro

After stitching, the presenter removes the project by sliding the magnets off laterally to release tension. She shows the towel area where the hoop sat to prove there are no compression marks (hoop burn).

Here is how I recommend you inspect your results:

• Front Inspection: Blow on the pile or brush it with your hand. The stitches should sit on top of the loops. If they are buried, next time use a Water Soluble Topping layer on top of the towel.
• Back Inspection: Check for loops. A little bit of white bobbin thread (about 1/3 width) should be visible down the center of the satin stitches.
• Distortion Check: Lay the towel flat on a table. Does the hem look wavy? If so, you may have stretched the towel too tight during hooping.

Stabilizer Decision Tree for Towels, Denim, Canvas, and Velvet (So You Don’t Guess and Waste Blanks)

The video uses wash-away stabilizer. That works for this specific visual demo, but different fabrics demand different physics. Use this decision tree as your baseline for magnetic hooping.

Decision Tree: Fabric → Best-First Stabilizer Approach

1) Is the item meant to be washed frequently and needs a soft back (Kitchen towel, baby burp cloth)?

• Yes → Start with Heavy Wash-Away or Soft Mesh Cut-Away.
• No → Go to #2.

2) Is the fabric thick, heavy, or stretchy (Denim jacket, Canvas tote, Ribbed knit)?

• Yes → Use a Firm Cut-Away. The magnetic hoop will hold the bulk; the cut-away will hold the stitches.
• No → Go to #3.

3) Is the fabric delicate or prone to permanent crushing (Velvet, Corduroy, Suede)?

• Yes → Stop. Do not use a screw hoop. Use a magnetic hoop + Self-Adhesive Tear-Away (floated) to minimize all pressure on the nap.
• No → Standard stabilizer is fine.

This decision logic helps you utilize your magnetic embroidery frame effectively, ensuring you aren't just relying on the magnets to do work the stabilizer should be doing.

The “Why” Behind Better Results: Tension, Friction, and Why Towels Pucker When You Rush Hooping

The video proves the concept visually, but the repeatable quality comes from understanding three forces:

1. Uneven Thickness kills Even Tension: A standard hoop ring is a perfect circle. A towel is not a perfect surface. The magnetic hoop clamps strictly on the Z-axis (up and down), ignoring the variations in X/Y fabric thickness.
2. Low Friction equals Fabric Creep: Towels are slippery on the back. The flocking on the Sew Tech hoops provides the friction necessary to keep the design registered.
3. Hoop Burn is Physical Damage: When you crush a folded hem in a plastic hoop, you are often breaking the cellulose fibers of the cotton. You can't steam that out. Magnets avoid this damage entirely.

If you are currently fighting hoop marks, you are not doing anything "wrong" technically—you are just using a tool (the inner ring) that conflicts with the material (the thick hem).

Operation Checklist (The last 30 seconds before you press Start)

• Grid Check: Visually align the towel grain with the grid marks on the hoop frame one last time.
• Interference Check: Manually lower the needle (using the handwheel) to ensure it clears the magnetic edge clamps. Hitting a magnet with a needle at 800SPM will break the needle and potentially scar the hook timing.
• Tail Management: Hold the top thread tail for the first 3-5 stitches to prevent it from being pulled down and creating a birdnest.
• Stability Check: After the first color, check that the magnets haven't shifted.

The Upgrade Path (Without Hard Selling): When Magnetic Hoops and Multi-Needle Machines Pay for Themselves

If you only embroider one towel a month for a birthday gift, any hoop will eventually work with enough patience. But if you are doing gifts, craft fairs, Etsy orders, or small-batch branding, time is your most expensive resource.

Here is the practical upgrade logic I use with my students:

• Level 1: The Frustration Fix. If hooping is your bottleneck (setup takes longer than stitching, or you have "seconds" bins full of hoop-burned items), a quality magnetic hoop is the immediate solution. Many users specifically search for husqvarna magnetic hoop options because it eliminates the physical struggle of forcing rings together.
• Level 2: The Workflow Fix. If you are doing repeated runs (sets of 20+ towels), stop eyeballing it. Use a hooping station for embroidery machine. This ensures every logo lands in the exact same spot on every towel, reducing mental fatigue.
• Level 3: The Production Fix. If thread changes are your bottleneck—meaning you are standing over your single-needle machine changing colors 12 times per towel—you have outgrown your hardware. This is where a Multi-Needle Machine (like SEWTECH) becomes an investment, not a cost. It handles the color changes automatically, holds bigger hoops more stably, and allows you to prep the next hoop while the first one stitches.

Quick Troubleshooting: Symptom → Likely Cause → Fix (Based on What This Video Shows)

Final Result: The Real Win Is Confidence—You Can Finally Stitch Where Customers Actually Want the Design

The presenter’s finished towel shows exactly what most embroiderers are chasing: clean stitching close to the hem, stable fabric during the run, and a release that leaves no hoop marks.

If you have been avoiding towels, denim, canvas, or delicate fabrics because hooping feels like a wrestling match, magnetic clamping changes the equation. It turns a mechanical struggle into a simple "place and press" action.

If you are comparing magnetic hoops for embroidery machines for home single-needle setups versus production workflows, use this video’s towel-hem test as your benchmark: if it can hold that variable thickness flat and aligned, it will handle almost any "difficult placement" job you throw at it.

FAQ

• Q: Which Husqvarna Viking Ruby Royale machines can use a Sew Tech–style magnetic embroidery hoop, and what must match for safe mounting?
  A: Use only the magnetic hoop version with a machine-specific Husqvarna Viking–compatible attachment bracket that fully seats on the Ruby Royale embroidery arm.
  • Verify: Slide the hoop onto the arm and confirm it locks firmly (you should feel/hear a solid “click” on many machines—follow the manual).
  • Inspect: Check the bracket orientation is correct for the machine side and the hoop does not wobble.
  • Avoid: Do not use a “universal” bracket that may reduce arm clearance and risk a hoop strike.
  • Success check: With the hoop mounted, gently wiggle—there should be no play; during a slow trace, the hoop should clear the needle area without contact.
  • If it still fails: Stop and re-check the bracket fitment for the exact model; do not run the design until the mount is stable.
• Q: How do I float a kitchen towel hem on a Husqvarna Viking Ruby Royale using a magnetic hoop without building wrinkles?
  A: Position first, then apply tension with magnets—do not try to “stretch into place” after clamping.
  • Lay: Place stabilizer and towel over the bottom hoop frame only (floating method).
  • Align: Use the hoop’s grid/template to square the towel grain and place the hem where the design must land.
  • Clamp: Apply magnets in a consistent order (top anchor → pull slack → bottom/hem anchor → sides).
  • Success check: Tap the center stitch field—the fabric should feel firm and flat (no ripples or “bubble” pocket).
  • If it still fails: Lift one magnet segment, micro-adjust 1–2 mm to the grid, and reseat—no full re-hoop needed.
• Q: What stabilizer should I use for embroidering close to a kitchen towel hem with a magnetic hoop, and when is wash-away not enough?
  A: Wash-away can work for light designs, but switch when stitch density is higher or the towel is shifting during stitching.
  • Start: Use wash-away when you want a clean finish that dissolves after rinsing (common for towels).
  • Upgrade: If the design is high stitch count (over 10,000) or dense fills, use cut-away for stronger support, or use a sticky wash-away for more grip.
  • Add: Lightly mist temporary spray adhesive on the stabilizer to prevent center “bubbling.”
  • Success check: During the first part of the run, the towel surface stays flat and colors register cleanly (no gaps between fill and outline).
  • If it still fails: Add more magnets at the fabric edge ends and confirm stabilizer extends at least 1 inch past the design area.
• Q: How can I tell the magnetic hoop tension is correct on a thick towel hem, and what are the fastest checks before pressing Start?
  A: Use touch-and-tug checks—magnetic hooping should be drum-tight without distorting the hem.
  • Feel: Run fingertips across the stitch field to find any air pocket; smooth and re-clamp if you feel a “bubble.”
  • Check: Look at the hem transition—the magnet should bridge the thick hem to the towel body without lifting one side.
  • Tug: Give the towel a gentle pull; if it slides under a magnet, reseat the magnet flush on the frame.
  • Success check: The towel lays mathematically flat on the hoop base, and a light tap sounds/feels firm rather than “wavy.”
  • If it still fails: Add extra side magnets where the towel does not span the full hoop to stop edge fluttering.
• Q: What causes needle breaks when embroidering near a towel hem on a Husqvarna Viking Ruby Royale with a magnetic hoop, and how do I prevent the needle hitting magnets?
  A: Needle breaks near hems are commonly clearance issues—confirm the needle path clears both the folded hem and magnetic clamps before running at speed.
  • Verify: Manually lower the needle using the handwheel to confirm it will not strike the magnetic clamp edges.
  • Measure: Confirm design placement has enough distance from the hem so the presser foot and needle area do not collide with the fold.
  • Replace: Install a fresh 75/11 or 80/12 needle for thick towels; dull needles increase deflection and skipping.
  • Success check: The first 100 stitches run without a “thump-thump” sound and without needle deflection or contact marks.
  • If it still fails: Move the design slightly away from the edge and re-check that all magnets are fully seated and flush.
• Q: What are the two most important safety rules when using strong magnetic embroidery hoop magnets on towel hems?
  A: Treat magnets like industrial clamps: prevent pinch injuries and keep magnets away from sensitive medical devices and data cards.
  • Handle: Keep fingers out from under the magnet; seat magnets by holding the handle/edges, not the underside.
  • Separate: Maintain distance from pacemakers/insulin pumps/implanted devices (a safe starting point is 6–12 inches).
  • Store: Do not rest magnets against smartphones, credit cards, or USB drives.
  • Success check: Magnets snap into place without finger contact in the pinch zone, and the work area stays organized with magnets controlled.
  • If it still fails: Pause the setup and change your hand position and magnet placement order to keep hands clear.
• Q: When should a towel business upgrade from screw hoops to magnetic hoops, and when does a SEWTECH multi-needle machine become the practical next step?
  A: Upgrade based on the bottleneck: hooping time/hoop burn → magnetic hoop; repeated placement → hooping station; thread changes → multi-needle.
  • Level 1 (Technique): If hoop marks (“hoop burn”) or edge hooping is causing rework, switch to magnetic clamping to reduce fabric damage and speed setup.
  • Level 2 (Tooling): If you run 20+ towels and placement consistency is the issue, add a hooping station routine for repeatable alignment.
  • Level 3 (Capacity): If color changes are slowing production on a single-needle machine, a multi-needle setup can reduce stop-and-start time.
  • Success check: Setup time becomes predictable, placement is repeatable, and “seconds” from hoop burn or misalignment drops noticeably.
  • If it still fails: Track where time is lost (hooping vs. alignment vs. color changes) for one full batch, then upgrade only the step that is limiting output.