From Etsy ZIP to Stitch-Ready on a Brother SE625: The No-Panic USB Workflow (and the Mistakes That Waste Hours)

If you’re new to a Brother SE625, the first time you buy a design online can feel weirdly stressful: you paid for a file, you downloaded a file… and somehow your machine still says “nothing to show.”

I’m going to walk you through the exact workflow shown in the video—Etsy download → ZIP extraction → pick the right PES → move it to USB → load it on the Brother SE625 → trace the boundary—then I’ll layer in the “seasoned operator” checks that prevent the most common dead-ends I see in shops and beginner studios.

Calm First: What the Brother SE625 Is (and Isn’t) Looking For When You Load a Design

The Brother SE625 is not reading “your Etsy purchase.” It’s reading a very specific stitch file sitting on a USB drive. In the video, that file is a .PES design sized for a 4x4 hoop.

Here’s the mental model that saves you hours: a downloaded Etsy file is often a ZIP “container” holding multiple machine formats (DST, EXP, JEF, HUS, PES, etc.). Your SE625 only cares about the PES version that matches your hoop size.

If you’re coming from cutting machines or Cricut-style workflows, this is the big shift: embroidery machines don’t want artwork files (JPG/PNG); they want stitch coordinates.

Downloading an Etsy Embroidery Design Without Losing Track of the ZIP

In the video, the creator goes to Etsy, opens Purchases and Reviews, finds the order, and clicks Download Files. Etsy saves a ZIP file to the computer.

A small but important habit: don’t “open and wander.” Decide where you want your embroidery downloads to live so you can find them later.

In the video, the ZIP lands in the Downloads folder, and the creator uses “Show in folder” to locate it.

Pro tip from the comment section (de-identified)

If your download seems to bounce you through different apps (Word, browser prompts, Google Drive), don’t panic. What matters is the end result: you must end up with the actual ZIP (or extracted folder) on your computer, not a link preview.

Extracting the ZIP and Spotting the Correct PES File (Before You Touch Your USB)

Once the ZIP is downloaded, the video shows opening it and clicking Extract All in Windows File Explorer. This creates a normal folder containing the individual design files.

Inside that extracted folder, you’ll see multiple formats. In the video, the creator specifically selects the PES file named:

• “KC_OMG I’m So Cute 4x4.PES”

That “4x4” matters because the machine is set for a 4x4 hoop in the tutorial.

Watch out: “My PES looks like a Word document”

One commenter described the PES file showing up as a Microsoft Word document icon. That’s usually a file association issue on the computer (Windows choosing Word as the default app for unknown file types). The file can still be a PES.

What you should trust is the file extension itself:

• You want the filename to end in .PES

If you don’t see extensions in File Explorer, you may need to enable them in Windows settings. To keep the workflow clean, the video uses Right-click → Cut on the PES file.

Moving the PES File to a USB Drive the Brother SE625 Can Actually Browse

Next, the video navigates to This PC, opens the USB drive (it appears as D: in the tutorial), and then opens a folder on the USB named se625.

Important detail from the video: you won’t have that folder unless you create it. The folder name itself isn’t magic, but having a simple folder structure makes it easier to find designs on the machine screen.

Then the creator right-clicks in the blank area and chooses Paste to move the PES file onto the USB.

What if Windows says the file already exists?

The video shows a duplicate/overwrite prompt because the creator had already tried earlier. The fix shown is to choose:

• Replace the file in the destination

That’s safe if you’re intentionally updating the file.

Checklist: Prep (Before you ever plug into the machine)

• Format Check: Confirm you are moving a .PES file (not the ZIP container).
• Size Check: Ensure the filename indicates it fits your hoop (e.g., "4x4").
• Nomenclature: Rename files to under 8 characters if possible (e.g., "CUTE_4x4.PES")—older machine processors lag with long names.
• Drive Hygiene: Ensure your USB stick is formatted to FAT32 and is ideally 32GB or smaller. Brother machines often fail to read massive modern drives.

The “Safe Eject” Habit That Prevents Corrupted USB Files

This step looks boring—until you skip it once.

In the video, the creator clicks the small arrow in the Windows taskbar system tray, selects the USB icon, and chooses Eject Mass Storage Device. Only after the “Safe to Remove Hardware” message appears do they pull the USB.

If you’re building good habits, this is one of the best: safe eject reduces the chance of file corruption.

Loading the Design on the Brother SE625: The Exact Screen Path Shown in the Video

Now we move from computer to machine.

1) Insert the USB drive into the side USB port of the Brother SE625. Sensory Check: You should feel a firm resistance and then a stop. Don't force it.

2) On the machine’s LCD screen, go to the menu.

3) Tap the USB icon.

4) Navigate into your folder (in the video, the folder is se625).

5) Select the design thumbnail and press Set.

On the selection screen, the video shows the design dimensions as 87.2 mm x 98.2 mm.

Comment-driven reality check: “My machine won’t read any files”

Several commenters described the machine not reading their USB or not showing designs. Based on shop experience, here is the hierarchy of failure:

1. Wrong Drive: The USB is larger than 32GB or USB 3.0 (blue tip) which some older firmware dislikes.
2. Wrong Format: The drive is formatted NTFS instead of FAT32.
3. Buried File: The file is inside 3-4 nested folders. Keep it in the root or one folder deep.

The Trace Button: Your Last Chance to Prevent a Needle-to-Hoop Collision

In the video, after the design is set, the creator presses the Trace function (the icon looks like a box with arrows). The hoop moves in a square pattern to show the boundary of the design.

This is not optional. This is your "flight check." Watch the needle bar relative to the plastic edge of your hoop. If it looks like it will hit, stop immediately.

Warning: Physical Safety
Keep fingers, scissors, and loose threads away from the needle area during the trace and stitch-out. The carriage moves unexpectedly fast. A needle hitting a hard hoop edge can shatter, sending metal shrapnel towards your eyes. Safety glasses are recommended in production environments.

Checklist: Setup (Right before you press “Set” and “Trace”)

• Port Check: USB inserted fully; wait 5 seconds for the machine to recognize it.
• Folder Logic: You navigated to the specific folder (e.g., "se625").
• Visual Confirm: The design shows up on the LCD screen.
• Hoop Match: Your physical hoop (4x4) matches the design size (87.2mm x 98.2mm fits).
• Clearance: Remove magnetic pincushions, scissors, or coffee mugs from the table surface around the machine arm.

The “Why It Works” Layer: File Formats, Hoop Size, and the Hidden Cost of Guessing

Here’s what’s happening under the hood (general guidance—always defer to your machine manual for specifics):

• ZIP files are secure shipping containers; the machine generally cannot "open" boxes, it just reads contents.
• PES is the language Brother spokes.
• Hoop Size is a physical limit. If a design is 101mm wide, and your stitch field is 100mm, the machine will likely refuse to load it (or grey it out) to protect itself.

When beginners get stuck, it’s rarely because they “did something wrong” in a dramatic way. It’s usually one small mismatch. If you are struggling with basic hooping for embroidery machine technique, know that even perfect hooping cannot save a file that is mismatched to the machine's limits.

Turning Comments Into Fixes: The Most Common “It’s Not Working” Scenarios (and What to Check)

Below are the patterns I see echoed in the comments, translated into a practical diagnostic list.

Symptom: “My Brother SE600/SE625 won’t read my USB at all”

Likely cause: USB drive compatibility or file structure issues.

Try this:

• Use a USB stick 4GB–16GB in size.
• Format the drive to FAT32 on your PC.
• Place one known-good PES file in the main directory (no folders) to test.
• Note: The brother se600 hoop size and file limits are identical to the SE625.

Symptom: “My file from Hatch/Embrilliance doesn’t read on the machine”

Likely cause: Exporting the wrong version.

Try this:

• When saving as PES, choose a version compatible with older machines (e.g., PES v6 or v9) rather than the newest version, just to be safe.

Symptom: “Etsy download opens in Word / asks me to paste a link”

Likely cause: You are clicking a PDF receipt or a text file included in the ZIP.

Try this:

• Look for the file ending in .zip. Ignore everything else until that is extracted.

Symptom: “I bought fonts and can only stitch one letter at a time”

Likely cause: "BX" fonts or mapped fonts require software to combine. Otherwise, they are just 26 separate design files.

Try this:

• Use free software (like embroidery toolkits) to merge letters into one PES file before putting it on the USB.

The “Hidden” Prep Nobody Mentions: Stabilizer, Thread, and Hooping Choices That Make Your First Stitch-Out Look Professional

The video focuses on file transfer, but your first real success moment is the stitch-out.

The Hidden Consumables List:

• 75/11 Embroidery Needles: The universal needle that came with the machine is okay, but specific embroidery needles have a larger eye for less friction.
• Bobbin Thread: Ensure you are using 60wt or 90wt bobbin thread (usually white), not sewing thread.
• Temporary Spray Adhesive: Helps float fabric if you can’t hoop it tight.

If you are using the standard plastic brother 4x4 embroidery hoop, you might struggle with "hoop burn" (shiny rings left on fabric) or fabric slipping. This is the #1 physical frustration for new users.

Decision Tree: Choose a Stabilizer Path Before You Stitch

Use this logic to prevent puckering:

• Is the fabric stretchy (T-shirt, Hoodie)?
  • YES: Use Cutaway Stabilizer (Mesh). Tearaway will blow out and distort the design.
  • NO (Denim, Towel): Go to next step.
• Is the fabric lofty/fluffy (Terry cloth, Fleece)?
  • YES: Use Tearaway on back + Water Soluble Topping on front (to keep stitches from sinking).
  • NO: Standard Tearaway is likely fine.

Speed Without Sloppiness: When a Magnetic Hoop Is a Real Upgrade (Not a Gadget)

Once you’ve mastered the file-transfer workflow, the next bottleneck is physical: hooping takes time, and standard hoops hurt your wrists after the 10th shirt.

In professional shops, we don't screw hoops tight; we snap them. If you plan to do more than occasional hobby work, you will want to look at upgrades.

• The Problem: Traditional hoops require perfect tension adjustment every time you change fabric thickness.
• The Upgrade: magnetic embroidery hoops for brother machines grip the fabric automatically without "unscrewing."
• The Benefit: No hoop burn, faster processing, and easier adjustment for thick items like towels.

Warning: Magnet Safety
Magnetic hoops use industrial-strength magnets (Neodymium). They can snap together with crushing force. Pinch Hazard: Keep fingers clear of the contact zone. Medical Safety: Keep magnets away from pacemakers and ICDs (maintain at least 6-12 inches distance).

Even for single-needle machines, a magnetic hoop for brother pe800 or SE600/625 series can legitimately save you 3-5 minutes per shirt.

Production Mindset: Organize Files Like You Plan to Stitch More Than Once

Beginners often treat each design like a one-time event. Shop owners treat designs like inventory.

Even if you’re not selling yet, build the habit now:

• Keep a folder per machine (like “se625”)
• Keep a folder per theme/client (names, logos, holidays)
• Keep a “TEST FIRST” folder for new designs

Eventually, if you scale up, you might look into a hooping station for machine embroidery. This is a physical jig that ensures every logo lands in the exact same spot on every shirt—vital for uniformity.

Checklist: Operation (The last 60 seconds before you stitch)

• Thread Check: Pull the top thread slightly; you should feel resistance (like flossing teeth). If it pulls freely, the tension discs aren't engaged—re-thread with the foot UP.
• Bobbin Check: Is the bobbin directional? (Usually counter-clockwise/ 'P' shape).
• Trace Complete: The needle did not hit the hoop.
• Start: Press the green button and watch the first 100 stitches closely.

The Upgrade Conversation Nobody Wants to Have (Until Orders Start Coming In)

If you ever move from “one gift” to “ten orders,” your time becomes the most expensive supply in the room.

At that point, the upgrade question isn’t emotional—it’s math.

1. Needle Count: A single-needle machine requires you to stop and re-thread manually for every color change. A multi-needle (like SEWTECH models) holds 10-15 colors at once.
2. Hooping Speed: Integrating a hoopmaster hooping station or similar system with magnetic frames changes a 5-minute struggle into a 15-second snap.

If you follow the video’s sequence exactly—download → extract → pick the 4x4 PES → paste to USB → safely eject → load via USB icon → set → trace—you’ll eliminate the most common beginner failure points. But don't just memorize the clicks; understand the physics of standardizing your files and your hoops, and you'll be ready for production sooner than you think.

FAQ

• Q: Why does a Brother SE625 show “nothing to show” after downloading an Etsy embroidery design?
  A: The Brother SE625 can only display a compatible stitch file (usually a .PES) on a USB drive, not the Etsy download package itself.
  • Extract the Etsy ZIP file first, then locate the file ending in .PES (not .zip, .pdf, or a link/preview).
  • Choose the PES that matches the hoop size shown in the filename (for example, a “4x4” PES for a 4x4 hoop).
  • Copy/paste the PES onto a FAT32 USB stick, keeping it in the root or one folder deep.
  • Success check: A design thumbnail appears after tapping the USB icon on the Brother SE625 screen.
  • If it still fails: Test with a small known-good PES file on a 4GB–16GB FAT32 USB stick with no folders to rule out USB issues.
• Q: How do I fix a PES file showing as a Microsoft Word document on Windows before loading it on a Brother SE625?
  A: A Word icon usually means Windows file association is wrong; the Brother SE625 still needs the filename to truly end in .PES.
  • Enable file extensions in Windows File Explorer so the real ending (like .PES) is visible.
  • Confirm the file name ends with .PES before copying it to the USB drive.
  • Move only the PES file (not the whole ZIP) onto the USB drive.
  • Success check: The file still ends in .PES after it is on the USB (the extension did not change).
  • If it still fails: Re-extract the ZIP again and select the PES specifically labeled for the hoop size (such as “4x4”).
• Q: What USB drive settings help a Brother SE600/Brother SE625 read embroidery designs reliably?
  A: Use a small FAT32 USB stick and keep the folder structure simple to avoid read failures.
  • Use a 4GB–16GB USB stick as a safe starting point; large modern drives may not be recognized.
  • Format the USB to FAT32 (avoid NTFS for this use case).
  • Place the PES in the root or a single folder (avoid 3–4 nested folders).
  • Success check: The Brother SE625 recognizes the USB and shows design thumbnails under the USB icon within a few seconds.
  • If it still fails: Try a different USB stick and load only one known-good PES file in the root to isolate whether the issue is drive-related.
• Q: Why is “Safe Eject” important when moving PES embroidery files to a USB for a Brother SE625?
  A: Safe eject helps prevent corrupted files that won’t show up or won’t stitch correctly on the Brother SE625.
  • Use the Windows system tray USB icon and choose “Eject Mass Storage Device.”
  • Wait for the “Safe to Remove Hardware” message before pulling the USB.
  • Reinsert the USB into the computer and confirm the PES file still opens/copies normally.
  • Success check: The design appears on the Brother SE625 and loads without disappearing or showing blank entries.
  • If it still fails: Re-copy the PES to the USB after ejecting properly, or try a different USB stick formatted to FAT32.
• Q: How does the Brother SE625 “Trace” function prevent needle-to-hoop collisions on a 4x4 hoop?
  A: Always run Trace after setting the design so the Brother SE625 shows the exact stitch boundary before sewing.
  • Press the Trace icon (box with arrows) after the design is set on the screen.
  • Watch the needle bar and carriage movement to ensure the boundary stays inside the hoop’s plastic edge.
  • Stop immediately if the path looks like it will contact the hoop.
  • Success check: The full traced boundary stays clearly inside the hoop frame with visible clearance on all sides.
  • If it still fails: Reconfirm the design size fits the hoop (for example, a 4x4 design for a 4x4 hoop) and do not stitch until the boundary is safe.
• Q: What needle, bobbin thread, and stabilizer are a safe starting setup for a first stitch-out on a Brother SE625?
  A: Use an embroidery needle, correct bobbin thread weight, and match stabilizer to fabric type to avoid puckering and frustration.
  • Install a 75/11 embroidery needle (a safe general starting point for many standard fabrics).
  • Load 60wt or 90wt bobbin thread (not regular sewing thread) for cleaner stitch balance.
  • Choose stabilizer by fabric: stretchy fabrics generally do best with cutaway mesh; lofty fabrics often need tearaway plus water-soluble topping.
  • Success check: The fabric stays flat around the design with no obvious puckers, and the stitch-out looks supported (not sinking into loft).
  • If it still fails: Re-check hooping tightness/slip and switch stabilizer type before changing the design file.
• Q: When should a Brother SE625 owner upgrade from a standard Brother 4x4 hoop to a magnetic embroidery hoop or to a multi-needle machine?
  A: Upgrade in layers: fix hooping technique first, then consider a magnetic hoop for speed/hoop-burn issues, and move to multi-needle only when color-change time becomes the bottleneck.
  • Level 1 (Technique): Reduce slipping and hoop burn by improving hooping and stabilizer choice before buying hardware.
  • Level 2 (Tool): Consider a magnetic hoop if hooping is slow, wrists hurt, fabric slips, or hoop burn is recurring on the standard hoop.
  • Level 3 (Capacity): Consider a multi-needle machine when frequent manual re-threading for color changes limits throughput on real orders.
  • Success check: Hoop time drops and results become repeatable (less re-hooping, fewer ruined blanks).
  • If it still fails: Standardize file organization and run Trace every time; many “machine issues” are still file/hoop mismatches rather than hardware limits.