Hatch Font Pack 1 Script Fonts (Memo, Handy, Eliza): Make Lettering Stitch Cleanly Without Guesswork

Mastering Script Fonts in Hatch: The "Shop-Floor" Playbook for Perfect Lettering

Script fonts are where embroidery looks "expensive"… and where beginners get burned fastest.

If you’ve ever watched a pretty script on your computer screen turn into a wobbly, unreadable bird’s nest on your fabric, you are not alone. This frustration usually stems from a misunderstanding of physics, not a lack of talent. Digital pixels can be scaled infinitely; physical thread cannot. A 40-weight embroidery thread has a physical diameter (roughly 0.4mm). If you shrink a loop until the gap is smaller than the thread itself, the needle will hammer the same spot repeatedly, resulting in thread breaks, holes in your shirt, or an illegible blob.

In this Hatch Embroidery Software walkthrough, we analyze Sue from OML Embroidery’s demonstration of Font Pack 1—three pre-digitized script fonts. We will cover the exact workflow to preview, resize, recolor, and pull special characters (glyphs).

However, as a veteran with 20 years on the production floor, I am going to add the "shop-floor" logic that software manuals often miss. I will teach you the tactile cues of a good setup, how to navigate the limitations of physical thread, and how to transition from a struggling hobbyist to a production powerhouse using the right tools.

The Calm-Down Moment: Pre-Digitized vs. Auto-Digitized

Before we touch the settings, understand what you are working with. Font Pack 1 contains pre-digitized fonts.

This is a crucial distinction. These aren't TrueType fonts from MS Word that the software is frantically trying to guess how to stitch (Auto-digitizing). These were manually plotted by a professional digitizer to account for "push and pull"—the natural distortion that happens when threat tightens around fabric.

The Physics of Scale: The error most novices make is treating these fonts like rubber bands.

• Too Small: The needle penetrations get too close. The fabric is perforated like a stamp and tears.
• Too Large: The "satins" (the column stitches that make up the letters) become too long. Long stitches snag on buttons, washing machine agitators, and jewelry.

Sue’s core message is simple: respect the engineering limits. We will look at the specific "Safe Zones" for each font below.

The "Hidden" Prep: Setup for Visual Truth

Sue starts in the Hatch workspace and heads to Lettering. This is correct, but let's add a "Pre-Flight" layer to ensure you aren't fighting your own eyes.

On a computer screen, a white background can mask potential issues with white or light-colored thread. You need high contrast to see the "connectors"—those tiny running stitches that link the script letters together.

The Contrast Hack

Sue demonstrates changing the thread color to a bright Red from the bottom palette, even if you plan to stitch in White.

• Why? You need to see the intersections. In script fonts, the tail of the "a" flows into the "b." If that connection is too thin on screen, it will be invisible on fabric.
• Sensory Check: Zoom in until you see the individual stitch points. If the letters look like they are barely touching on screen, they will likely disconnect when the fabric stretches under the hoop.

Prep Checklist (Complete before typing):

1. Grid Check: Turn on the background grid (Press 'G'). This gives you an immediate sense of scale (usually 10mm per square).
2. Color Contrast: Select a thread color that screams against the background (e.g., Neon Green on Black, Red on White).
3. Hoop Selection: Select the hoop that matches your final output. Don't design in a giant hoop for a chest logo; it distorts your perception of size.
4. Underlay Check: For script fonts, ensure "Center Run" underlay is active if available. This anchors the fabric before the satin column covers it, preventing the "skinny font" syndrome.
   

Memo Script: The Workhorse for Uniforms

Sue’s first demo is Memo Script.

The Workflow:

1. Click the Lettering Tool.
2. Type "OML Embroidery".
3. Select Memo Script.
4. Resize visually using the corner handles.

The "Shop-Floor" Analysis: Memo Script is what we call a "Production Friend." It has a consistent stroke width and lacks excessive flourishes.

• Best Use Case: Corporate polos, mechanic nametags, school uniforms.
• Why it works: It requires less Pull Compensation. Because the letters are upright and open, they are legible even on pique knit (the waffle texture of polo shirts).

The Hooping Friction Point: When doing uniforms with Memo Script, the text is often small (10-15mm). If your hoop tension is loose, the text will distort. The fabric must feel "drum-tight" strictly—when you tap it, you should hear a thud, not a flap. If you struggle to get this tension on slippery performance polos using standard plastic hoops, which often pop open, this is where professionals upgrade. Using magnetic embroidery hoops allows you to clamp slippery fabric firmly without the "tug of war" needed with screw-tightened hoops, preserving the grain of the fabric.

Handy Script: The "Loopy" Trap

Next, Sue demonstrates Handy Script by typing the word "Loves."

The Visual: Handy Script is "loopy." It looks like modern calligraphy, with dramatic ascenders (top loops like 'h', 'l') and descenders (bottom loops like 'g', 'y').

The Danger Zone: This is where variables kill the project.

• The Loop Collapse: When you shrink a loop, the center hole gets smaller. If that hole drops below 1mm, the thread buildup will close it shut. Instead of a letter 'e', you get a solid dot.
• Speed Kills: When stitching loopy scripts, your machine mechanism (X/Y pantograph) has to whip back and forth rapidly.
• Expert Setting: If stitching Handy Script under 20mm height, slow your machine down. Drop from 800 SPM (Stitches Per Minute) to 600 SPM. This reduces the centrifugal force on the thread and keeps loops crisp.

Alignment Matters: Because Handy Script looks handwritten, it is unforgiving if it is tilted. A generic block font can look okay if slightly crooked; script looks messy. If you are doing a batch of "Loves" tote bags, "eyeballing" the hoop alignment is a recipe for disaster. This is why many volume shops utilize a machine embroidery hooping station. It ensures that "Loves" lands in the exact same spot on the 50th bag as it did on the 1st, removing the human error from the alignment equation.

Eliza Script: The Premium "Space Eater"

Sue’s third demo is Eliza. She types "Wilcom Hatch" to show off the Mixed Case capabilities.

The Aesthetic: Eliza is an unruly aristocrat. It has thick, ornate capitals and wide, sweeping curves.

• Best Use Case: Monograms on towels, pillowcases, jacket backs.
• The Trap: It demands real estate. Do not try to squeeze Eliza onto a shirt pocket. Use it where you have 50mm+ of height.

Texture & Topping: Because Eliza is often used on luxury items (like towels), you face the "sinking" problem. If you stitch Eliza directly onto a terry cloth towel, the loops of the towel will poke through the font.

• The Solution: You must use a Water Soluble Topping (Solvy). It sits on top of the towel like a piece of plastic wrap, holding the stitches up.
• Commercial Hint: Thick items like towels are a nightmare to hoop with standard plastic rings. The inner ring tries to push the towel down, often popping out. This is the #1 trigger for users to switch to magnetic embroidery hoops. The magnets clamp onto the thick fabric rather than forcing it into a ring, saving your wrists and your patience.
  
  
  

Insert Character: The Map to hidden Treasures

Sue clicks Insert Character to reveal the glyph map.

This is your secret weapon against "Boring Text."

• The Problem: Standard typing gives you standard letters. Sometimes the spacing between a capital 'W' and a lowercase 'h' looks awkward.
• The Solution: Glyphs often contain "Alternate" capitals or decorative swashes that act as bridges.
• Warning: Select your special characters before you finalize sizing. An alternate 'M' might be three times wider than the standard 'M', forcing you to re-think your entire hoop choice.
  
  
  

The Non-Negotiable Numbers: Safety Ranges

Sue consults the Hatch "Recommended Stitch Sizes." Do not treat these as suggestions. Treat them as the "Structural Integrity Limits" of the font.

The Sweet Spots (Shop-Floor Verified):

• Memo Script:
  • Limit: 10mm - 50mm.
  • Sweet Spot: 15mm - 35mm. This is where it reads best on shirts.
• Handy Script:
  • Limit: 13mm - 75mm.
  • Sweet Spot: 25mm - 50mm. Below 25mm, the loops get risky.
• Eliza:
  • Limit: 20mm - 80mm.
  • Sweet Spot: 40mm+. Let it breathe.

Why verify? If you force Memo Script down to 6mm, your machine will sound like a jackhammer (thud-thud-thud) because it is stitching almost in place. This builds up a hard "knot" of thread that is uncomfortable to wear and easy to rip.

Decision Tree: Fabric vs. Stabilizer Strategies

You cannot just click "Print" on embroidery. The fabric fights back. Use this logic tree to stabilize your script fonts correctly.

Action: Touch your fabric. What does it do?

1. It Stretches (T-Shirts, Performance Polos, Hoodies)

• The Risk: As the needle creates the satin column, it pulls the fabric together. The text puckers.
• The Fix: Cutaway Stabilizer (2.5oz or 3.0oz). No exceptions. Tearaway is not strong enough to resist the pull of satin script.
• Needle: 75/11 Ballpoint.

2. It has Texture (Towels, Fleece, Velvet)

• The Risk: The stitches sink into the pile; text disappears.
• The Fix: Tearaway Backing + Water Soluble Topping. The sandwich structure is crucial.
• Needle: 75/11 or 90/14 Sharp (to cut through the heavy backing).

3. It is Stable (Canvas Totes, Denim, Twill Caps)

• The Risk: Minimal.
• The Fix: Tearaway Stabilizer.
• Needle: 75/11 Sharp.

Warning - Magnet Safety: If you upgrade to magnetic embroidery hoops to handle thick towels or canvas bags, treat them with respect. The magnets are industrial strength. Keep fingers clear of the "snap zone" to avoid pinching, and strictly keep them away from pacemakers or sensitive electronics.

Operation: The Zero-Failure Workflow

Follow this sequence every time to build muscle memory.

1. Grid & Context: Open Hatch. Turn on Grid. Select output hoop size.
2. Creation: Use Lettering Tool -> Select Font -> Type Text.
3. Visual Audit: Change thread color to High Contrast (Red/Green).
4. Sizing Sanity Check: Check the height against the "Sweet Spots" listed above.
5. Refinement: Use "Insert Character" for better spacing/alternates.
6. Simulation: Run the "Player" in Hatch to watch the pathing. Look for weird jumps or overlaps.
7. Production Setup:
   • Mark center on fabric (Water soluble pen).
   • Hoop consistently (Drum tight).
   • Load machine & Trace.

Operation Checklist (The "Green Light"):

• Bobbin Check: Is there enough bobbin thread? (Running out mid-script is a nightmare to fix).
• Needle Check: Is the needle fresh? A burred needle snags loop scripts.
• Pathing Check: Does the hoop path clear all internal machine parts?
• Stabilizer Match: Is the stabilizer correct for the fabric elasticity?
• Speed Dial: If details are small (<12mm), is speed reduced to ~600 SPM?

The "Why" of Failure: Troubleshooting Script

When script fails, it fails ugly. Use this to diagnose the mess.

Symptom 1: Gaps between letters (The "Broken Link")

• Likely Cause: Poor stabilization or loose hooping. The fabric shifted during stitching.
• Quick Fix: Use spray adhesive to bond the fabric to the stabilizer.
• Long Term: A hooping station for embroidery helps ensure standard tension every time.

Symptom 2: "Bird nesting" underneath the fabric

• Likely Cause: Upper tension too loose or thread not seated in tension discs.
• Quick Fix: Re-thread with the presser foot UP (opens the discs).
• Sensory Check: Pull the thread at the needle. It should feel like flossing your teeth—resistance, but smooth.

Symptom 3: Small loops are solid/bulletproof

• Likely Cause: Font size too small for thread weight.
• Quick Fix: scale up 10% OR switch to a thinner 60wt thread and 65/9 needle.

Symptom 4: Hoop Burn (Shiny ring on fabric)

• Likely Cause: You had to tighten the plastic hoop screw too much to hold the fabric.
• Quick Fix: Steam the ring mark (don't iron).
• Prevention: Search for how to use magnetic embroidery hoop videos; magnetic hoops distribute pressure flatly, eliminating the "burn" ring caused by friction.

The Commercial Pivot: From Hobby to Production

Using Pre-digitized fonts like Font Pack 1 is the first step toward professional results. But software is only 50% of the equation.

If you find yourself spending 5 minutes digitizing a name and 20 minutes struggling to hoop the shirt straight, your bottleneck is mechanical.

• Ergonomics: Twisting screw-hoops all day creates repetitive strain injuries (RSI).
• Consistency: Clients notice if the logo on Shirt #1 is 1 inch lower than Shirt #5.

The Upgrade Path:

1. Level 1 (Technique): Use the right needles (Ballpoint for knits), fresh thread, and proper adhesive sprays. Hidden Consumable: Keep a weirdly large supply of sharp tweezers and curved scissors; script trimming requires surgical precision.
2. Level 2 (Workflow): Incorporate a hoop master embroidery hooping station or similar jig. This guarantees placement accuracy.
3. Level 3 (Hardware): If you are fighting with thick bags, horse blankets, or delicate silks, Sewtech Magnetic Hoops are the industry solver. They convert the "wrestling match" of hooping into a 5-second "Click."
4. Level 4 (Scale): If you are constantly changing thread colors for these fonts, the downtime kills profit. Moving to a Multi-Needle Machine allows you to set up all your colors once and run production while you hoop the next garment.

Warning - Mechanical Safety: Embroidering looks peaceful, but the machine is a power tool. Never put your hands near the needle bar while the machine is running. If a needle breaks at 800SPM, shrapnel flies. Wear glasses or keep the safety shield down.

Master the font sizes, respect the fabric physics, and don't be afraid to upgrade your tools when the volume demands it. That is how you turn a wobble into a business.

FAQ

• Q: In Wilcom Hatch Embroidery, why do Memo Script or Handy Script letters disconnect when stitching small names on stretchy polos or T-shirts?
  A: Re-hoop drum-tight and switch to the correct stabilizer first; most “broken links” come from fabric shifting, not the font.
  • Use cutaway stabilizer (2.5oz or 3.0oz) on stretchy fabrics; avoid tearaway for satin script on knits.
  • Bond fabric to stabilizer with spray adhesive before hooping to reduce drift.
  • Slow down if the script is small (a safe starting point is ~600 SPM for fine details).
  • Success check: zoomed-in connectors look clearly joined in Hatch, and on fabric the joins stitch without visible gaps between letters.
  • If it still fails: increase the text size into the font’s sweet spot range and re-test on a scrap.
• Q: In Wilcom Hatch Embroidery, how can the “Contrast Hack” prevent invisible connectors when designing script fonts for white thread on light fabric?
  A: Temporarily change the on-screen thread color to a high-contrast color so the connector stitches are easy to audit before stitching.
  • Change the lettering object color to bright Red/Green against the background before resizing or editing.
  • Zoom in until individual stitch points are visible and inspect letter-to-letter intersections.
  • Turn on the grid (press “G”) and set the correct output hoop size to judge scale accurately.
  • Success check: connectors are clearly visible at high zoom and do not look like “barely touching” lines.
  • If it still fails: run Hatch Player to spot overlaps/jumps that can weaken connectors.
• Q: In Wilcom Hatch Embroidery Font Pack 1, what are the safe size ranges and sweet spots for Memo Script, Handy Script, and Eliza Script?
  A: Stay inside the recommended ranges and aim for the shop-floor “sweet spots” to avoid loop collapse, perforation, or snag-prone long satins.
  • Memo Script: limit 10–50mm; sweet spot 15–35mm (common for shirts).
  • Handy Script: limit 13–75mm; sweet spot 25–50mm (below 25mm loops get risky).
  • Eliza: limit 20–80mm; sweet spot 40mm+ (needs space to breathe).
  • Success check: the machine does not hammer one spot (no “jackhammer” sound) and small loops stay open instead of filling in.
  • If it still fails: scale up ~10% or switch to thinner 60wt thread with a 65/9 needle for very small details.
• Q: On a multi-needle embroidery machine, how do you stop “bird nesting” underneath the fabric when stitching Wilcom Hatch script lettering?
  A: Re-thread the top thread correctly with the presser foot UP and confirm the thread is seated in the tension discs.
  • Lift the presser foot (to open the tension discs) and re-thread the machine from spool to needle.
  • Pull the needle thread by hand to confirm it is seated and not floating outside guides.
  • Check bobbin supply before starting; running out mid-script is hard to recover cleanly.
  • Success check: pulling the needle thread feels like flossing—smooth resistance—and the underside shows controlled bobbin/top balance instead of a loose nest.
  • If it still fails: inspect for a dull/burred needle and replace it before adjusting tensions further.
• Q: For Wilcom Hatch script fonts on towels or fleece, what stabilizer and topping combination prevents letters like Eliza Script from sinking into the pile?
  A: Use a “sandwich” setup: tearaway backing plus a water-soluble topping to keep stitches sitting above the texture.
  • Place tearaway stabilizer underneath to support the design during stitching.
  • Add water-soluble topping on top (Solvy-style) to hold towel loops down.
  • Choose a needle appropriate for the stack (75/11 or 90/14 sharp is commonly used for heavier backing; confirm with machine manual).
  • Success check: satin columns look raised and readable, with minimal pile poking through the lettering.
  • If it still fails: increase the font height into the font’s sweet spot (Eliza performs best at 40mm+).
• Q: What is the correct “drum-tight” hooping standard for small script names, and how do you know hoop tension is sufficient before stitching?
  A: Hoop the fabric so it is drum-tight—firm and flat—because small 10–15mm script is extremely sensitive to shifting.
  • Tap the hooped fabric surface before loading the machine.
  • Re-hoop if the fabric feels slack or ripples when you brush a fingertip across it.
  • Mark centers on fabric with a water-soluble pen and trace the design to confirm placement before running.
  • Success check: the fabric gives a solid “thud” when tapped (not a flap), and tracing shows the design lands exactly where intended.
  • If it still fails: add spray adhesive to stabilize the fabric-to-backing bond and consider a hooping station for repeatable alignment.
• Q: What safety rules prevent finger injuries when using magnetic embroidery hoops, and what medical/electronic risks must be avoided?
  A: Treat magnetic hoops as industrial-strength clamps—keep fingers out of the snap zone and keep magnets away from pacemakers and sensitive electronics.
  • Keep fingertips clear when closing the hoop; let the magnets meet under control.
  • Store hoops so they cannot slam together unexpectedly.
  • Keep magnetic hoops away from pacemakers and sensitive electronics at all times.
  • Success check: hooping can be done without pinching incidents, and the hoop closes smoothly without “surprise snaps.”
  • If it still fails: slow down the hoop-closing motion and reposition hands to hold from the outside edges only.
• Q: What safety steps prevent needle-related injuries when running script lettering at 800 SPM on a multi-needle embroidery machine?
  A: Never put hands near the needle bar while the machine is running, and reduce speed for small loopy script to lower the risk of breaks and flying fragments.
  • Keep hands clear of the needle area during operation; treat the machine as a power tool.
  • Use the safety shield or wear eye protection, especially at higher speeds.
  • Reduce speed for small details (a safe starting point is dropping from 800 SPM to ~600 SPM for loopy scripts).
  • Success check: the run completes without needle strikes/breaks, and stitch formation stays crisp in tight loops.
  • If it still fails: stop immediately, inspect for a damaged needle, and replace before restarting.