Ran Out of Simthread Color #70? Match It to a 5,500-Yard Cone (Without Guessing or Overpaying)

From Thread Chicken to Production Pro: The Ultimate Guide to Thread Management & Conversion

If you’re brand new to machine embroidery, you know the feeling of "Thread Chicken." It’s that heart-stopping moment when you see your favorite color spool getting dangerously thin, exposing the plastic core. It usually happens at 9:00 PM on a Sunday, right in the middle of a baby blanket gift.

The good news? This panic is actually a graduation ceremony. It means you are no longer just "trying out" embroidery—you are producing enough work to deplete supplies.

This guide rebuilds the exact workflow from the video, optimized with professional shop-floor experience. We will cover how to transition from expensive small spools to economical cones, how to master color conversion without guessing, and how to organize your "brain" (your charts) so you never make a mistake.

The "Red Zone": Handling the Low Spool Panic

In the video, Jeanette holds up a nearly empty small spool from a Simthread starter kit. This is the universal sign of a beginner leveling up.

However, here is the harsh reality of machine mechanics: Do not stitch until the thread is gone.

The Physics of the End of the Spool: When a spool gets down to the last few layers (the "Red Zone"), the thread is tightly wound near the core. This increases drag (tension) significantly.

• Sensory Check: If you hear your machine making a rhythmic thump-thump sound, or if the thread snaps when the needle moves to the far left of the hoop, you are deep in the Red Zone.
• The Rule: When you can see the plastic bars of the inner core, retire that spool to "basting stitch duty" or hand sewing. Do not use it for a dense fill stitch.

The Economics: 1,100 Yards vs 5,500 Yards

Jeanette compares the common small spool size (1,100 yards/1,000 meters) to a large cone (5,500 yards/5,000 meters).

From a business perspective, this is a no-brainer.

• Small Spool: ~$2 - $4. Great for variety.
• Large Cone: ~$8 - $16. Great for "Must-Have" colors (Black, White, Red, Navy, and your signature colors).
  

The Hidden Challenge: Physics of the Cone Home machines are designed for small spools.

• Crucial Setup Note: You cannot mount a 5,500-yard cone on a horizontal spool pin. It is too heavy and will not unspool. You must place the cone vertically behind the machine (using a mug or a standalone thread stand) so the thread lifts straight up.
• Tension Check: The thread path from an external cone is longer. You might need to lower your top tension slightly. Test stitch on scrap fabric first. Look for the white bobbin thread showing exactly 1/3 width in the center of the column on the back.

The "Bulk Order" Strategy: Suppliers like AllStitch often have high free-shipping thresholds (e.g., $150). Don't buy one cone at a time.

• The Pro Move: Keep a running "Low Stock List" of backing, needles (75/11 Sharp and Ballpoint), and bobbins. Wait until you hit the threshold, then buy for the quarter. This lowers your Cost of Goods Sold (COGS).

The No-Guess Method: Precision Color Conversion

The core technique is translating your "Kit Language" (Simthread) to "Pro Language" (Madeira, Isacord, etc.). Do not eyeball this. Studio lighting lies.

Jeanette recommends downloading the official conversion chart. You visualize the Simthread number and trace it to the Madeira equivalent.

Example:

• Simthread Cornflower Blue #70
• Converts to Madeira #1830
  

Why Accuracy Matters: If you are running a brother embroidery machine for a small business, your customers expect the "University Blue" on the hat they bought in March to match the jacket they buy in November. Conversion charts ensure data-driven consistency, not visual guesswork.

Decision Tree: To Cone or Not to Cone?
1. Usage Frequency:
Do I use this color on >50% of my projects?*
* YES → Buy a 5,500yd Cone.
* NO → Start with Step 2.
2. Project Size:
Is this a full-back design (20,000+ stitches)?*
* YES → Buy a Cone (Small spools might run out mid-design).
* NO → Stick to 1,100yd Spool.
3. Availability:
Is this a standard brand color (e.g., Madeira)?*
* YES → Safe to upgrade.
* NO → Keep using the kit spool to ensure matches.

The "Cognitive Hack": Labeling for Flow

Once you have the new cone, Jeanette shows a brilliant workflow hack: Write the old kit number inside the new cone.

• The Logic: Your design software and your brain know "Color 70." Don't force yourself to memorize "1830."
• Sensory Tip: Use a permanent fine-point marker. Write it inside the plastic core. Writing on the plastic wrapper is useless—you throw that away. Writing on the sticker at the bottom usually fades or gets scratched by the thread stand.

If you are eventually upgrading to a single head embroidery machine (like the commercial setups), this labeling system saves hours during setup, allowing you to match threads to needles instantly.

The Hidden Prep: Pre-Flight Safety Checks

Before you hit "Buy" on that massive thread order, you need to audit your potential failure points.

Checklist 1: The Purchasing & Setup Audit

• Color Verification: Did I check the conversion chart specifically for my thread kit version? (Kits get updated).
• Machine Clearance: Do I have space behind my machine for a large cone to stand freely?
• Path Obstructions: Is there anything (lamp, wall, cords) that the thread could snag on as it travels from the cone to the machine?
• Consumables Audit: Do I need Stabilizer (Cutaway for knits, Tearaway for woven)? Do I need Spray Adhesive? Do I have fresh needles?
• Bobbin Check: Big top thread requires big bobbin supply. Do I have pre-wounds?

Warning: Mechanical Safety
When testing a new external thread stand, keep your hands clear of the needle bar and take-up lever. Do not try to guide the thread with your fingers while the machine is running at 600+ SPM (Stitches Per Minute). If the thread snags, it can snap the needle, sending metal shards flying. Always wear glasses or safety specs.

Finding Charts When They Don’t Exist: The "Close Enough" Reality

Jeanette notes that not all brands translate perfectly. For example, Bernina to ThreadNanny charts are rare.

What to do when the chart is missing:

1. Google Images: Search "[Brand A] to [Brand B] conversion chart."
2. The "Sunlight Test": If you must match manually, take both threads outside into indirect sunlight (North-facing window). Indoor LED lights often have blue or yellow tints that skew your perception.
3. The Shop Standard: Pick ONE professional brand (like Madeira or Metro) for your cones. Force all other kits to convert to that standard. Don't juggle five different numbering systems.

The "Reference Brick": Laminating and Binding

A loose piece of paper in a sewing room is trash waiting to happen. Jeanette suggests laminating your charts.

The Workflow: 1) Heat Up: Wait for the "Ready" light. 2) Load: Place the chart in the sleeve, centered. 3) Feed: Sealed edge first.

She binds them with a metal ring or ribbon.

Why this matters: When you are swapping threads mid-project, your hands may have spray adhesive or machine oil on them. Laminated charts wipe clean. Paper charts turn into oil-stained trash.

Warning: Laminator Safety
Laminators get hot enough to burn skin. Handle the output only after it cools for 10 seconds. Also, ensure no thread scraps or lint enter the laminator input slot—this is a fire hazard.

Beyond Thread: optimizing The Physical Workflow

You have mastered thread management. Your cones are labeled, and your charts are guarded. Now, look at the rest of your production line.

If you are stopping every 10 minutes to wrestle with a basic plastic hoop, you are losing money (or sanity). The standard "screw-and-push" hoop causes two major problems:

1. Hoop Burn: The friction ring crushes velvet or delicate cotton.
2. Repetitive Strain: Tightening that screw 50 times a day hurts your wrists.

This is where the term magnetic embroidery hoop becomes part of your vocabulary. Unlike traditional hoops, magnetic frames use strong magnets to sandwich the fabric.

• The Benefit: Zero fabric distortion, no hoop burn, and hooping takes 5 seconds instead of 45 seconds.
• The Scenario: If you are doing a run of 20 towels or tote bags, a magnetic hoop is not a luxury; it is a labor-saving device.

Warning: Magnetic Safety
magnetic embroidery hoops use powerful neodymium magnets.
* Pinch Hazard: Keep fingers clear of the snapping zone.
* Medical Device Warning: If you or anyone in your shop has a pacemaker, consult a doctor before using high-power magnetic hoops. Keep them away from credit cards and hard drives.

Integration: If you struggle with placement, looking up how to use magnetic embroidery hoop tutorials will show you how they pair with hooping stations to ensure perfect logo alignment every time.

Dashboard: The Pro Setups

Your goal is to move from "Hobby Chaos" to "Studio Flow."

Checklist 2: The "Ready to Stitch" Sequence

1. Thread Path: Cone placed vertically, thread flowing freely with no snags on the cone lip.
2. Needle match: 75/11 for standard cotton/poly, 90/14 for sweatshirt fleece. Change needle after every 8-10 hours of stitching.
3. Hooping: Fabric is taut like a drum skin (sound check: tap it, it should drum). If using a magnetic hoop for brother, check that the magnets are fully seated.
4. Stabilizer: Is it secure? (Cutaway used for wearables/knits; Tearaway for towels).

Troubleshooting: The Thread Headache Matrix

If things go wrong after switching to cones, use this logic path.

The Next Level: When to Upgrade Your Gear

As your skills grow, your "bottlenecks" shift.

1. Bottleneck 1: Thread Colors → Solved (Cones & Charts).
2. Bottleneck 2: Hooping Speed → Solved (hooping stations & Magnetic Hoops).
3. Bottleneck 3: Measuring & Re-measuring → Solved (Hooping station logic).

If you are running a single-needle machine and find yourself spending more time changing thread colors than actually stitching, that is the trigger to look at a multi-needle machine. But until then, optimizing your single-needle setup with cones, organizational charts, and efficient hooping tools (like a specific hooping station for brother embroidery machine) will maximize your output.

Checklist 3: End-of-Day Shutdown

• Cover the Cones: Dust is the enemy. It settles on thread and jams tension disks later.
• Organize Charts: Put the reference brick back in its drawer.
• Unload Tension: Lift the presser foot (if mechanical) or unthread the needle to relax the tension springs.
• Consumables Check: Did I break my last needle? Add to shopping list immediately.

The Bottom Line

Stop treating thread like a grocery item you buy when it runs out. Treat it like a utility system. By standardizing on cones, labeling for cognitive ease, and protecting your reference data, you build a "safety net" that allows you to focus on creativity, not crisis management. Add in the right physical tools—like magnetic hoops—and you transform from a frantic beginner to a composed professional.

FAQ

• Q: On a Brother embroidery machine using 1,100-yard Simthread spools, when should the spool be retired to avoid “Thread Chicken” thread breaks?
  A: Stop using the spool for dense stitching as soon as the inner plastic core bars are visible, because the last wraps add drag and cause snaps.
  • Switch the low spool to basting-stitch duty or hand sewing.
  • Listen for a rhythmic “thump-thump” sound and watch for snapping when the needle travels far left—both are Red Zone cues.
  • Success check: the machine runs smoothly across the full hoop without rhythmic thumping or sudden snaps.
  • If it still fails… re-thread the upper path carefully and test with a fresh spool to confirm the issue is end-of-spool drag.
• Q: On a Brother single-needle embroidery machine, how should a 5,500-yard thread cone be set up so the thread feeds correctly?
  A: Feed the cone vertically from behind the machine (using a mug or a standalone thread stand), not on the horizontal spool pin.
  • Place the cone so the thread lifts straight up and travels to the machine with no snags on the cone lip.
  • Remove any spool cap usage on cones—let the thread feed off the top freely.
  • Success check: the thread pulls smoothly by hand without catching, and a test stitch runs without sudden tension spikes.
  • If it still fails… lower top tension slightly as a safe starting point and test-stitch on scrap, then follow the machine manual for tension procedure.
• Q: On a Brother embroidery machine after switching to external cones, what is the correct top-tension “success check” using the bobbin thread on the design back?
  A: Use a test stitch and adjust only after re-threading; the target is bobbin thread showing about 1/3 width centered in the stitch column on the back.
  • Stitch a small test on scrap with the same fabric and stabilizer you will use on the real item.
  • Inspect the back of the sample and look for the bobbin line centered in the column rather than pulling to one side.
  • Success check: the bobbin thread is visible as a consistent, centered line (about one-third of the column width), not scattered or missing.
  • If it still fails… re-thread again making sure the thread is actually seated in the tension disks, then re-test.
• Q: On a Brother embroidery machine, what pre-flight purchasing and setup checks prevent thread snags and mid-design stops when upgrading to cones?
  A: Do a quick audit before buying and before stitching so the cone path, consumables, and workspace cannot sabotage the run.
  • Verify the exact conversion chart for the specific thread kit version being converted (kits can change).
  • Clear space behind the machine for the cone to stand freely, and remove lamps/cords/walls that could snag the thread path.
  • Stock essentials: correct stabilizer type (cutaway for knits/wearables; tearaway for towels/wovens), spray adhesive if used, fresh needles, and enough pre-wound bobbins.
  • Success check: the thread path from cone to machine is unobstructed and the first test run completes without a single snag.
  • If it still fails… simplify the path (shorter, straighter) and test again before changing other variables.
• Q: On a Brother embroidery machine, what causes loops on top of the design after switching to thread cones, and what is the fastest fix?
  A: Loops on top usually mean the upper thread is not properly tensioned (often from mis-threading or inconsistent cone feed), so re-thread and stabilize the feed first.
  • Re-thread the machine completely and “floss” the thread into the tension disks so it is truly seated.
  • Check the cone feed for drag: ensure the cone is vertical and the thread is not catching on the stand or cone base.
  • Success check: the next test stitch shows a clean top surface with no loose loops forming.
  • If it still fails… confirm the cone is feeding smoothly and then make small tension adjustments per the machine manual.
• Q: On a Brother embroidery machine, what should be done when the needle breaks with a loud “BANG” right after setting up an external thread stand?
  A: Stop immediately and remove the snag source, because needle breaks commonly happen when thread catches on the cone base/stand and jerks the needle.
  • Power down and clear the table area around the thread stand so nothing can hook the thread during fast runs.
  • Re-thread from cone to needle, checking every guide point for sharp turns or rub points.
  • Success check: with the machine idle, the thread pulls smoothly end-to-end without any sudden catches; the next test run finishes without a snap.
  • If it still fails… switch back to a known-good spool setup for one test to isolate whether the stand/path is the root cause.
• Q: When using magnetic embroidery hoops for a Brother machine, what safety precautions prevent finger pinches and magnet-related hazards in a small shop?
  A: Treat magnetic hoops as high-force tools: keep fingers out of the snap zone and keep magnets away from sensitive medical devices and magnetic media.
  • Position fabric first, then lower magnets carefully—do not let magnets “slam” together near fingertips.
  • Keep magnetic hoops away from credit cards and hard drives, and get medical guidance if anyone nearby uses a pacemaker.
  • Success check: magnets seat fully without shifting, and hooping completes without fabric distortion or any pinch incidents.
  • If it still fails… slow down the hooping motion and confirm the magnets are aligned and fully seated before moving the hoop to the machine.