Scrappy Duffle Tote Bag (5x7 vs 7x7 Hoop): The Flip-and-Fold ITH Build That Actually Finishes Clean

If you’ve ever stared at a drawer of “too-good-to-throw-away” scraps and thought, I should turn this into something real, Sweet Pea’s Scrappy Duffle Tote Bag is exactly that kind of project—practical, giftable, and surprisingly beginner-friendly.

But let’s be honest: "Scrappy" implies messy, and specialized embroidery bags often look homemade in the wrong way. To get that professional finish, you need to understand the mechanics behind the "Flip-and-Fold" technique. Whether you have a single-needle home machine or you are looking to scale production, this project is a perfect study in bulk management and hooping precision.

Don’t Panic—This Scrappy Duffle Tote Bag Is Bigger Than Your Hoop (5x7 and 7x7 Proof)

Martyn puts the two finished bags side-by-side and calls out the key reassurance: the bag looks exactly the same in size, but it’s built with two different hoop size options—7x7 and 5x7. That matters because many embroiderers assume a smaller hoop automatically means a smaller finished bag. In this design, it doesn’t.

If you’re working with a smaller hoop (for example, a standard brother 5x7 hoop), the project is still designed to land you with a tote that feels like an overnight/college/gym bag—not a mini. The secret is modular assembly—you aren't embroidering the whole bag at once; you are manufacturing panels that are later joined.

The “Hidden” Prep That Makes Flip-and-Fold Look Professional (Scraps, Mesh, Webbing, and Sanity)

The video is an introduction, so it doesn’t list every consumable choice in detail—but the success of flip-and-fold ITH (In-The-Hoop) work is decided before you stitch. Here’s what experienced bag makers quietly do to avoid the classic beginner heartbreak: wavy panels, shifting scraps, and bulky strap areas.

Choose scraps that behave (and don’t sabotage your seam allowances)

Allison is clear: scraps must be “decent-sized,” not puny. In practice, that’s not just about convenience—it’s about keeping enough fabric beyond the stitch line so the flip-and-fold action can fold cleanly without exposing raw edges.

Pro tip (The Friction Test): Rub your scrap fabric between your thumb and finger. If it feels slippery (like satin or rayon), it will shift during the flip-and-fold process unless you use a temporary adhesive. If it feels stable (like quilting cotton), you are in the safe zone.

Mesh pockets: pick the right mesh for condensation and visibility

Martyn highlights the mesh side pockets and why they’re useful: water bottles sweat, and mesh handles condensation better than a solid fabric pocket. You can also see what’s inside.

When sourcing mesh, avoid the soft, drapey tulle used for tutus. You want "Soft & Stable" style mesh or bag-specific mesh that has a slightly plasticized feel. Sensory Check: It should have enough body to stand up on its own when folded over, not collapse like fabric.

Webbing straps and optional piping: decide your “difficulty level” early

They show two assembly styles:

• Martyn’s bag includes piping for contrast.
• Allison’s version skips piping for a simpler build.

That’s the right mindset: piping is optional, and it’s not a moral failing to skip it. If you’re new, finish one bag cleanly first—then add piping on bag #2.

Prep Checklist (Do this or risk failure)

• Hoop Math: Confirm which hoop size version you’re making (5x7 or 7x7) so you don’t cut scraps to the wrong scale.
• Scrap Audit: Pull decent-sized cotton scraps (at least 1 inch larger than placement lines on all sides).
• Material Selection: Decide on mesh vs. fabric pockets (Mesh reduces bulk).
• Bulk Decision: Decide on plain edges vs. piping (Piping adds ~30% more bulk under the foot).
• Tool Prep: Locate your appliqué scissors (duckbill) and a non-permanent marking pen.
• Hidden Consumable: Have a can of temporary spray adhesive (like KK100) or embroidery tape ready—pins are dangerous in ITH projects.

Set Up Your Hooping Like a Production Job (Even If You’re Only Making One Bag)

Flip-and-fold projects are forgiving in concept, but they punish sloppy hooping. The panel has to stay stable while you repeatedly place, stitch, flip, and fold.

If you’ve ever fought fabric shifting during hooping for embroidery machine work, this is the moment to slow down and set yourself up for success.

The stability rule that prevents “mystery wrinkles”

Generally, wrinkles in flip-and-fold panels come from one of three things: 1) the base fabric wasn’t held evenly, 2) the stabilizer choice didn’t match the fabric weight, or 3) the repeated folding introduced uneven tension.

Sensory Anchor: When you tap your hooped stabilizer, it should sound like a tight drum skin ("thrum-thrum"). If it sounds dull or loose, tighten it. However, do not stretch the fabric itself—hoop it neutrally.

Decision Tree: fabric type → stabilizer/backing strategy

Use this logical flow to choose your foundation:

• IF scraps are Quilting Cotton (Standard):
  • Use: Medium Weight Tearaway (50-60g) or Poly-mesh Cutaway.
  • Why: Provides enough structure without becoming "bulletproof" stiff.
• IF scraps are Lightweight/Slippery:
  • Use: No-Show Mesh Cutaway + a layer of Fusible Woven Interfacing on the back of the scrap.
  • Why: Prevents the stitches from puckering the fabric.
• IF project is for heavy use (Grocery/Gym):
  • Use: Medium Weight Cutaway (2.5oz).
  • Why: Tearaway can disintegrate over time with heavy loads; Cutaway lasts forever.

When a hooping station stops being “extra” and starts being smart

For ITH panels with repeated placements, a consistent hooping workflow is the difference between “fun weekend project” and “why is this taking me all day?”

If you’re doing multiple bags (gifts, craft fairs, team orders), a hooping station for embroidery setup can help you keep fabric alignment consistent from panel to panel.

The "Hoop Burn" Reality: If your hands/wrists hate tightening outer rings, or if you are seeing white "burn" marks on dark fabrics, standard hoops are the culprit. Taking the leap to magnetic embroidery hoops is often the most noticeable quality-of-life upgrade. They hold thick layers (like the batting needed for this bag) without forcing you to unscrew and re-screw the hoop constantly.

Warning: Magnetic hoops use powerful neodymium magnets. They can pinch skin hard enough to cause blood blisters. Keep them away from pacemakers, credit cards, and children. Always slide the magnets off; never pry them straight up easily.

Setup Checklist (Before the first stitch)

• Hoop Check: Ensure inner and outer rings are clean. If using magnetic hoops, ensure magnets are fully seated.
• Needle Swap: Install a fresh 75/11 or 90/14 needle. (Use 90/14 if sewing through cotton + batting + webbing).
• Bobbin Check: Use a full bobbin to avoid running out mid-panel (which can cause registration shifts).
• Testing: If adding piping, pre-make a 3-inch sample and test-bend it to ensure it's not too stiff for the hoop corners.

Build the Scrappy Duffle Tote Bag Features Without Regret (Mesh Pockets, Patch Pocket, Zipper Option)

Martyn walks through the exterior and interior features in a way that’s worth copying when you plan your own version.

Mesh side pockets (the “gym bag” feature you’ll use constantly)

He rotates the bag to show the side mesh pocket and explains the real-world benefit: water bottles sweat, and mesh handles that moisture better. It also lets items breathe (think small gym towels).

Front patch pocket between the straps (easy access, good depth)

He then shows the front patch pocket positioned between the two straps and demonstrates depth by putting his hand inside. Note the placement: it sits under the straps, which reinforces the pocket edges.

Optional zipper pocket on the front pocket (choose your level)

On Martyn’s bag there’s an extra zipper pocket on the front pocket area. In the conversation, they clarify that the pocket itself can be made in the hoop, but the zipper pocket is an optional choice depending on your preferred method and skill level.

Watch out (common beginner trap): Zippers add bulk and stiffness right where you want the bag to flex. If you’re new, do the first bag without the zipper pocket, then add it once you understand how the bag “wants” to fold and sit. Metal zippers are risky in ITH projects—hit one teeth with a needle, and it can throw your machine's timing. Stick to nylon coil zippers (No. 3 or No. 5).

Interior strip pockets (quietly the most useful feature)

Inside, Martyn points out strip pockets attached to the side of the lining—perfect for separating small items (makeup bag, shoes, etc.) so they don’t migrate.

The Flip-and-Fold System: How This ITH Method Stays Beginner-Friendly (If You Respect the Physics)

Martyn calls this a flip-and-fold system and emphasizes it’s a great beginner embroidery project. That’s true—but only if you understand what’s happening mechanically.

What “flip-and-fold” is really doing

In plain terms, you’re repeatedly stitching fabric pieces in place, then flipping/folding them to cover seams and build a patchwork/quilted look in a controlled way. The hoop becomes your “flat press,” holding the base stable while you add layers.

The physics that keeps panels flat (and why some panels ripple)

Fabric doesn’t just sit there—it stretches, relaxes, and compresses. Every time you fold a piece over, you’re introducing a directional pull. If your base layer is unevenly tensioned in the hoop, those tiny pulls stack up.

Speed Tip: For flip-and-fold projects involving batting, slow your machine down.

• Expert Range: 600 - 800 stitches per minute (SPM).
• Beginner Sweet Spot: 500 - 600 SPM.

High speeds can cause the foot to "push" the folded fabric, creating a wave.

Machine “feel” matters more than people admit

Even though the video doesn’t go into machine settings, your machine will tell you when you’re pushing it:

• Audio Cue: Listen for a sharp, rhythmic "click-click." If it turns into a heavy, laboring "thump-thump," your needle is struggling to penetrate the bulk. Stop and check if you are hitting a seam allowance.
• Tactile Cue: Gently place a hand on the table (not the hoop). If vibration increases significantly, check that the webbing or mesh isn't catching on the presser foot lift lever.

Warning: Mechanical Safety. Keep fingers clear when guiding bulky layers near the needle area. Do not try to "help" the hoop move; you will knock the registration off alignment. Use the "Eraser Trick"—use the rubber end of a pencil to hold fabric down near the needle, saving your fingers.

Piping or No Piping? The Clean-Edge Choice That Changes the Whole Look

Martyn traces the piping detail along the strap edge and shows how it adds contrast; Allison’s bag shows the simpler no-piping finish.

Here’s the experienced take:

• Skip piping if this is your first structured bag or if you’re using thicker fabrics.
• Add piping when you want a more “store-bought” look and you’re comfortable managing bulk.

Piping is less about difficulty and more about bulk management. If your seams are already thick (webbing + folded patchwork + lining), piping can push you into “too much for one seam” territory. If your machine's presser foot height isn't adjustable, skipping piping is the safer bet to avoid skipped stitches.

Fabric Styling That Sells: Bright Scraps vs “Shades of Grey” and Masculine Options

They show two aesthetics:

• A bright, colorful scrap build with no repeated colors.
• A more neutral “Shades of Grey” fabric collection.

Allison also points out something smart for anyone making gifts or selling: you can “masculine this up” with different fabric choices and end up with a sports bag. You can also add personalization—names, initials, school colors.

If you’re thinking beyond one bag, this is where the project becomes commercially interesting: the same construction can serve multiple audiences just by changing fabric and trim.

“I Don’t Do Facebook”—Still Want the Sew-Along Benefits? Here’s the Practical Alternative

One comment is blunt and common: someone is excited for the design but doesn’t do Facebook.

That’s fair. You can still treat this like a sew-along by creating your own mini workflow:

• Watch the assembly video(s) once without sewing.
• Make a written checklist for your own cutting/hooping order.
• Do one test panel with “practice scraps” (muslin or old sheets) before you commit your favorite fabrics.

If you’re the type who likes community troubleshooting but not social platforms, consider building a small local maker circle or even a shared text thread with two or three embroidery friends—bag projects go smoother when you can sanity-check a step before you stitch it permanently.

The Upgrade Path: When Tools Pay You Back (Hooping Speed, Consistency, and Scaling)

This project is positioned as beginner-friendly, but it also has a clear “upgrade runway” if you start making multiples.

If hooping feels like the bottleneck

When you’re repeatedly aligning fabric and keeping it stable, the hooping process becomes the time sink. That’s where a dedicated magnetic hooping station can turn “fiddly” into repeatable.

If you already own a hoopmaster hooping station, the same mindset applies: consistency beats improvisation, especially when you want panels that match.

If you want to produce more than one bag a week

Once you’re making gifts, taking orders, or batching panels, you start thinking like a small production line. At that point, upgrading from basic machine embroidery hoops to a more repeatable system (including magnetic options) is less about gadgets and more about reducing rework and wrist strain.

And if you’re moving into true batch work (50+ items), a single-needle machine will require constant thread changes for a colorful scrappy bag. A multi-needle machine (like our SEWTECH multi-needle embroidery machines) becomes a practical step up for productivity. It handles the color stops automatically and offers a free-arm that makes assembling tubular bag parts infinitely easier. The right time to consider it is when your order volume is steady enough that "time saved per bag" equals "profit."

Operation Checklist (The "Finish Clean" Habits)

• Placement Logic: Keep scrap placements calm and flat—don’t stretch pieces to “make them fit” or they will shrink back later.
• Finger Pressing: After each fold, smooth the seam with your nail or a seam roller before stitching the next placement.
• Bulk Management: Be aware: webbing + pockets + optional zipper + optional piping can stack to over 4mm thick.
• Audio Check: If the machine sound changes at thick transitions, slow down to 400 SPM and re-check the layer stack.
• Commitment: Decide your customization level (piping/zipper/personalization) before you start, not halfway through.

The Result You’re After: A Scrappy Bag That Packs Small, Carries Big, and Doesn’t Look Homemade

Allison and Martyn point out a detail that matters for real use: you can scrunch the bag down for travel, then load it up when you need an extra bag. That’s the sweet spot—soft enough to pack, structured enough to carry.

If you build it with stable hooping, sensible scrap sizing, and a realistic feature set (mesh pockets + patch pocket first; zipper/piping later), you’ll end up with a tote that looks intentional—not like a pile of scraps that barely survived the hoop.

FAQ

• Q: Why do flip-and-fold ITH scrappy tote bag panels get “mystery wrinkles” even when the fabric looks flat before stitching on a Brother single-needle embroidery machine?
  A: Use firmer stabilizer support and re-hoop so the foundation stays evenly tensioned through repeated folds—this is common in flip-and-fold panels.
  • Re-hoop the foundation layer so it is held evenly and neutrally (do not stretch the fabric).
  • Match stabilizer to the fabric: quilting cotton often works with medium tearaway (50–60g) or poly-mesh cutaway; lightweight/slippery fabric often needs no-show mesh cutaway plus fusible woven interfacing on the scrap back; heavy-use bags often hold up better with medium cutaway (2.5oz).
  • Slow the embroidery speed if batting is involved (a safe range is 500–800 SPM, and slow further at thick transitions).
  • Success check: Tap the hooped stabilizer— it should sound like a tight drum (“thrum-thrum”), not dull or loose.
  • If it still fails: Reduce bulk features (skip piping/zipper pocket first) and confirm the base layer is not being pulled unevenly during each fold.
• Q: What scrap fabric size should be used for the Sweet Pea flip-and-fold ITH scrappy duffle tote bag so seam allowances do not get exposed after folding?
  A: Use “decent-sized” scraps with extra margin beyond the placement lines so the fold covers cleanly without raw edges showing.
  • Cut scraps at least 1 inch larger than the placement lines on all sides before stitching.
  • Avoid “puny” scraps that barely reach the stitch line; they tend to shift and uncover edges during flip-and-fold.
  • Add temporary spray adhesive or embroidery tape when scraps feel slippery to prevent creep during stitching.
  • Success check: After the first flip, the folded piece fully covers the seam line with no raw edge peeking at the corners.
  • If it still fails: Switch to more stable quilting cotton scraps or add fusible woven interfacing to the back of slippery scraps.
• Q: How can embroidery shifting be prevented during flip-and-fold ITH bag panels when using temporary spray adhesive (like KK100) instead of pins?
  A: Use light, controlled adhesive placement and press scraps flat before stitching—pins are risky in ITH and often cause more problems than they solve.
  • Spray lightly (or use embroidery tape) so the piece is tacky, not wet or gummy.
  • Place the scrap calmly and flat; finger-press or use a seam roller after every fold before the next placement stitch.
  • Keep repeated placements consistent by building a simple checklist and following the same order each panel.
  • Success check: The scrap does not “walk” during stitching and the placement line stays covered edge-to-edge after folding.
  • If it still fails: Re-check hoop tension and slow the machine down; high speed can let the presser foot push folded fabric into a wave.
• Q: What needle size should be installed for a flip-and-fold ITH scrappy duffle tote bag panel that stitches through cotton, batting, and webbing on a home embroidery machine?
  A: Start with a fresh 75/11 for lighter layers, and move up to a 90/14 when stitching through cotton + batting + webbing to reduce needle struggle.
  • Install a new needle before starting the first panel (dull needles worsen skipped stitches in bulky areas).
  • Use 90/14 when the panel includes webbing straps or other thick stacks.
  • Slow down when approaching thick transitions so the needle penetrates cleanly.
  • Success check: The machine sound stays rhythmic (“click-click”), not heavy or laboring (“thump-thump”) as it crosses bulky areas.
  • If it still fails: Reduce bulk choices (skip piping or zipper pocket first) and check you are not stitching directly on a seam allowance stack.
• Q: Why does a flip-and-fold ITH scrappy tote bag panel “wave” or ripple when embroidering with batting, and what embroidery speed should be used to keep it flat?
  A: Slow the machine down—batting plus repeated folds can let the presser foot push fabric into a wave at higher speeds.
  • Run in a controlled range (often 600–800 SPM for experienced users; 500–600 SPM is a safer beginner starting point).
  • Drop to about 400 SPM at thick transitions (webbing, pocket edges, piping areas) if the panel starts to ripple.
  • Smooth each fold (finger press or seam roller) before stitching the next step so thickness stays even.
  • Success check: The panel stays visually flat after each placement line, with no “ocean wave” forming along the stitched edge.
  • If it still fails: Re-hoop for firmer stabilizer tension and consider skipping piping, which can add significant bulk.
• Q: What safety steps should be followed to avoid finger injuries when guiding bulky flip-and-fold ITH bag layers near the needle on a home embroidery machine?
  A: Keep fingers away from the needle path and use a tool to hold fabric down—never try to “help” the hoop move.
  • Stop immediately if the machine begins to labor or if fabric bunches near the needle area.
  • Use the “Eraser Trick” (rubber end of a pencil) to press fabric near the needle instead of using fingertips.
  • Keep hands on the table area, not gripping the hoop, so you don’t knock registration out of alignment.
  • Success check: You can control the fabric edge without bringing fingers within the needle strike zone.
  • If it still fails: Simplify the layer stack (remove optional zipper pocket/piping) and re-run the step at a slower speed.
• Q: What magnetic embroidery hoop safety rules should be followed when using neodymium magnetic hoops for thick flip-and-fold ITH bag panels?
  A: Treat magnetic hoops as pinch hazards—slide magnets off, keep them away from sensitive items, and never let children handle them.
  • Slide magnets off sideways instead of prying straight up to reduce sudden snap-back pinches.
  • Keep magnetic hoops away from pacemakers, credit cards, and children.
  • Seat magnets fully before stitching so the stack stays stable through repeated folding.
  • Success check: Magnets sit flush and the fabric stack does not lift or drift during placement stitches.
  • If it still fails: Reduce thickness at the hoop edge (avoid stacking webbing/piping right under a magnet) or switch to a different hooping method for that step.
• Q: When flip-and-fold ITH scrappy bag production feels too slow on a single-needle embroidery machine, when should a maker upgrade to magnetic hoops or a SEWTECH multi-needle embroidery machine?
  A: Upgrade in layers: first optimize technique, then improve hooping repeatability with magnetic hoops, then consider a multi-needle machine when order volume makes thread changes the bottleneck.
  • Level 1 (Technique): Build a checklist, use correct stabilizer for fabric type, slow down for batting, and avoid adding piping/zipper until the base bag is clean.
  • Level 2 (Tooling): Move to magnetic hoops if hoop tightening causes hoop burn, wrist strain, or inconsistent holding on thick layers.
  • Level 3 (Capacity): Consider a SEWTECH multi-needle embroidery machine when you are batching multiple bags and frequent color changes are slowing output.
  • Success check: Panel alignment becomes repeatable from bag to bag, and rework (re-hooping, restitching) drops noticeably.
  • If it still fails: Identify the true bottleneck (hooping accuracy vs. color-change time vs. bulk handling) before investing, and follow the machine manual for setup limits.