The Peony Clutch ITH Build (6x10 Hoop): Trapunto on PU Leather, Magnetic Clasp Placement, and a Clean Flip-and-Fold Finish

If you have ever “breezed through the front” of an In-The-Hoop (ITH) bag project only to hit that panic-inducing moment where the clutch transforms into a thick, hardware-laden sandwich—take a breath. We have all been there. The presser foot is high, the layers are resisting, and the fear of a broken needle is real.

This Peony Clutch build is absolutely achievable, but it rewards a calm, engineering mindset over speed. Martyn’s method is technically brilliant: he employs double batting to achieve a true trapunto loft on PU (polyurethane/faux leather), installs the magnetic clasp in two distinct stages (flap first, then body), and utilizes a back-of-hoop lining technique that keeps the interior pristine without fighting bulk.

However, moving from "following steps" to "mastering the craft" requires understanding the physics of your materials. Below, we break this down with specific parameters, sensory checks, and safety protocols to ensure your machine—and your fingers—stay safe.

The calm-before-you-stitch moment: 6x10 hoop planning for the Peony Clutch ITH bag

This project is engineered around a 6x10 hoop (approx. 160mm x 260mm). While the finished object fits this space, the video’s cutting reference suggests 8x12 for your lining and stabilizer. That size choice isn't just about waste; it is about leverage. You need that extra margin to tape, baste, and manipulate the fabric without your fingers entering the "danger zone" near the needle bar.

A lot of mid-project frustration comes from one of two structural failures:

1. Lack of "Handling Room": You didn't leave enough excess stabilizer to grip when floating layers.
2. Thickness Ambush: You didn't account for the stack height (Double Batting + PU + Cork + Hardware + Lining + Stabilizer).

If you are setting up a repeatable workflow—perhaps for an Etsy shop update or holiday gifts—environmental stability is key. Skewed hooping is the silent killer of geometric bags. Many makers eventually incorporate a hooping station for machine embroidery into their studio. This isn't just a luxury; it anchors your outer hoop, allowing you to use both hands to smooth that stubborn PU leather, ensuring the grain remains perfectly straight before you even approach the machine.

The “hidden” prep Martyn is really relying on: stabilizer, batting, and clean trimming habits

Martyn notes that you can use cutaway or tearaway early on, but he makes a "seasoned call" to use cutaway for the flap stage. Here is the technical "Why" behind that choice:

Trapunto requires the fabric to dome upwards. If you use tearaway, the dense straight stitches and backstitches defining the loft can perforate the stabilizer, causing the design to separate from the hoop before you are finished. Cutaway provides the permanent suspension bridge your heavy PU needs.

He also uses two pieces of batting on the stabilized hoop, then trims one layer at a time after the outline stitch. That “single-layer trimming” is not fussy; it is architectural.

Why the one-layer-at-a-time trim matters (the trapunto edge doesn’t forgive)

If you attempt to shear through both layers of batting at once with your curved scissors, two things happen: you get a "stepped" cliff edge that looks chunky under the vinyl, or you accidentally nip the stabilizer.

Trimming one layer, then the second slightly further back, creates a gradient edge. Martyn calls it a “feathered cut.”

• Sensory Check: Run your finger over the trimmed batting edge. It should feel like a gentle ramp, not a cliff. This ramp allows the PU leather to drape smoothly, creating that expensive, embossed look rather than looking like a lumpy quilt.

**Phase 1: Prep Checklist (Do this BEFORE turning on the machine)**

• Hoop Check: Ensure your hoop screw is tightened with a screwdriver (finger tight isn't enough for thick PU).
• Material Sizing: Cut stabilizer and batting to 8x12 so you aren't wrestling oversized rolls.
• Weaponry: Have double-curved embroidery scissors (duckbill style is better for batting) on the table.
• Hardware Audit: Verify you have the "Outie" (Male) and "Innie" (Female) magnetic clasp parts separated.
• Iron Setup: If using cork or PU, set iron to Low/Synthetic and have a pressing cloth ready. Direct heat will melt PU instantly.
• Consumables: Fresh needle installed (size 90/14 Topstitch or Jeans recommended for this thickness).

Getting real trapunto on PU leather: double batting + lighter top tension (and what “lighter” really means)

Martyn floats the PU fabric over the batting. The machine will execute straight stitches and backstitches to compress the background, forcing the unstitched areas to pop.

He mentions the need for a specific "recipe": thread, needle, foot height, and tension. Let's quantify "a little bit of fiddling" so you don't have to guess.

• Speed: Do not run this at 800+ SPM. For thick layers, dial your machine down to the Beginner Sweet Spot: 400-600 SPM. This creates cleaner stitch definition and reduces friction heat.
• Tension: The "lighter" tension Martyn suggests is crucial. Thick assemblies eat up top thread.
  • Standard: Usually ~3.0 - 4.0 (or 140g).
  • Adjustment: Drop it by 1.0 to 1.5 (or down to ~100-110g).
  • The "Why": If tension is too tight, the bobbin thread will be pulled to the top (looking like white dots), or the PU will pucker. You want the stitch to lay flat.

Pro tip pulled from the comments (the confidence gap is normal)

Readers often comment that they "breezed through the front" but hit a wall later. This is the ITH Cognitive Shift.

• Job 1 (Flap): This is pure Embroidery. It is visual and artistic.
• Job 2 (Body/Assembly): This is Construction. It is mechanical and structural.

Treat them as separate disciplines. Pause between them. clear your workspace of embroidery thread scraps and bring out the "construction tools": tape, seam rippers, and clips.

The lining-on-cutaway trick: spray-baste the lining to stabilizer before it ever touches the hoop

Martyn cuts lining for the flap using the 6x10 hoop reference and an 8x12 cut. Then he employs a smart stabilization tactic: Spray-basting the lining fabric to a separate sheet of cutaway stabilizer.

He places that lining/stabilizer combo right sides together on the flap while it’s still in the hoop.

Why this works (and why it prevents a lot of puckers)

Satin or cotton lining is slippery. When you place it face-down on a moving hoop, the presser foot's drag can ripple it, creating pleats that dictate ruin. By adhering it to a rigid stabilizer first, you turn flimsy fabric into a structurally sound board.

• Application Tip: Hold your spray adhesive (like KK100 or 505) 10-12 inches away from the stabilizer. You want a "mist," not a "puddle." Too much glue gums up your needle (listen for a distinct slap-slap sound if the needle is sticky—that means stop and clean it with alcohol).

Warning: Physical Safety
Seam rippers and curved scissors are precision instruments, but when force is applied, they become dangerous. When cutting clasp slots through thick PU/Cork, the material often resists and then "gives" suddenly.
* Rule: Always cut away from your body.
* Technique: Place the hoop on a flat, non-slip mat. Do not hold it in the air while cutting slots.

The magnetic clasp on the flap: 1.5 inches up, centered, and cut from the lining side

After turning the flap right side out, Martyn uses an embossing tool (or a chopstick) to push out edges.

He measures 1.5 inches up from the tip, centers the clasp, marks prongs, and cuts slots with a seam ripper through the lining side to insert the “outie” (male) clasp.

Expert habit that prevents crooked clasps

Before you cut those slots, perform a Physical Simulation.

1. Fold the flap gently as if closing the bag.
2. Visualize where it lands.
3. Sanity Check: Does the 1.5-inch mark actually look centered relative to the curve? Embroidery shrinks fabric; sometimes the "design center" shifts slightly. Trust your eyes and your ruler over the pattern blindness.

Building the clutch body in the hoop: tearaway + batting trimmed to 2 mm + flip-and-fold discipline

For the body, Martyn switches to tearaway stabilizer. Why? Because you want to rip this out later to reduce bulk in the final seams. He places batting and trims it to a precise 2 mm margin inside the stitch line.

He uses the Flip-and-Fold method for the front fabric: Place face down -> Stitch -> Fold over -> Smooth.

This is the "Ripple Danger Zone."

The physics you’re fighting (and how to win without brute force)

Batting is a sponge. Under the presser foot, it compresses. When you fold the vinyl over it, if you pull the vinyl tight like a drum skin, the batting will eventually push back, creating a wave or a bowed bag.

The Fix: Smooth the fabric firmly but do not stretch it. Use the side of your hand to press it down. Tape the edges securely.

If you struggle with holding stiff materials like Cork or PU flat without "hoop burn" (the ring marks left by standard hoops), this is a scenario where Tool Choice matters. Traditional inner hoops rely on friction and pressure, which crushes PU grain. Professionals utilizing magnetic embroidery hoops bypass this because the magnets clamp the fabric vertically without the friction-drag mechanism, leaving your expensive vegan leather unmarked.

The back-of-hoop lining move: tape it firmly, roll it up, and keep it out of the stitch path

Martyn removes the hoop and tapes the lining fabric right-side down onto the back of the hoop.

He emphasizes securing it. Gravity is your enemy here.

Watch out (The "Droop" Loop)

If your tape is weak (or if you use cheap office tape instead of Painter's tape), the center of the lining will sag due to gravity.

• The Risk: As the machine arm moves, the lower bed can catch that sagging fabric.
• The Sound: You will hear a sudden thud followed by the machine grinding.
• The Fix: Pull the lining "taut like a bedsheet" (but not warped) and tape all four corners. If the lining is large, roll the excess and tape the roll to the outer hoop frame.

**Phase 2: Setup Checklist (Right before Body Stitching)**

• Stabilizer Swap: Confirmed you switched to Tearaway for the body?
• Batting Trim: Trimmed to exactly 2mm? (Too much = bulk; Too little = gap).
• Security: Back-of-hoop lining acts like a drum skin? No sagging?
• Clearance: Check that your taped "rolled" fabric is outside the sewing field.
• Tape Test: Use fresh tape. If you re-used a piece 3 times, throw it away.

The second half of the magnetic clasp: mark an X, cut clean slots, and seat the washer correctly

Martyn marks an X on the cork front for the female clasp. He aligns the washer, marks the lines, cuts slots, and bends prongs.

Comment question answered: “Would trapunto work on cork?”

The community asked: "Does trapunto work on cork?"

• The Expert Answer: Yes, but cork has a "memory." Unlike fabric which heals around a needle hole, every perforation in cork is permanent.
• Strategy: If doing Trapunto on cork, use a Sharp needle (Microtex) rather than a Ballpoint. This punches a clean hole rather than tearing the cork substrate.

If you find that re-hooping these thick, stiff cork "sandwiches" is physically difficult or hurts your wrists, a magnetic frame for embroidery machine changes the ergonomics completely. You simply lift the upper magnet set rather than unscrewing and prying apart rings.

Attaching the finished flap and D-rings: placement lines, even spacing, and “foot path” awareness

Martyn stitches a placement line for the flap actions. This is critical: Alignment. He aligns the flap and tapes D-ring tabs.

Crucial Safety Check: The D-Rings are metal. Your needle is metal. They cannot occupy the same space and time.

• Action: Tape the D-rings down so they cannot flip up.
• Check: Manually turn the handwheel (or use the "Trace" function) to ensure the foot does not graze the D-ring. A collision here will knock your machine's timing out, requiring a service call.

Warning: Machine Safety
Keep all hardware (D-rings, zippers, clasps) strictly out of the presser foot's travel path. Increase your Presser Foot Height (if your machine allows) to the maximum safe setting (often 2.0mm - 2.5mm for ITH bags) to glide over the added bulk of the flap attachment points.

The final sandwich: back fabric on top, lining on the back of the hoop, then a perimeter stitch with an opening for turning

Martyn places back fabric face down on top and final lining face down on bottom. He runs the final perimeter stitch (usually a triple strength stitch).

Decision Tree: Stabilizer Strategy

Use this logic flow to choose your stabilizer for future projects:

• IF stitching heavy Trapunto/PU Flaps → Use Cutaway (Support is priority).
• IF stitching the Body/Assembly → Use Tearaway (Clean removal/Less bulk is priority).
• IF using Washaway → Only for woven/washable fabrics (Bad for PU/Cork as you can't submerge them to dissolve the stabilizer).

Turning, trimming, and the “step at the opening”: the finishing details that decide whether it looks handmade or professional

Martyn removes the project, tears away standard stabilizer, and trims seam allowances to 1/4 inch (6mm).

The Secret Sauce: At the turning opening, do not trim the fabric back. Leave a "Step." Keep the full allowance here.

• Why: When you tuck the raw edges in to hand-sew it closed, you need that extra fabric to fold inward. If you trim it short, you will fight to keep it closed and it will fray.

The "Squash and Squeeze": Before turning, massage the corners. Break the stiffness of the stabilizer with your hands. This softens the bag structure, making the turn through the small hole less traumatic for the stitches.

The upgrade path that actually matches this workflow: faster hooping, less hoop burn, and safer handling of thick stacks

This project involves intense "Hoop Management": removing the hoop, taping the back, flipping, re-attaching, and floating layers.

If you are a hobbyist making one bag, standard hoops are adequate. However, if you are producing inventory:

1. Hoop Burn: Traditional hoops leave marks on PU that heat cannot remove.
2. Slippage: Thick layers tend to "creep" inward as you tighten the screw.

This is the operational threshold where professionals invest in magnetic hoops for embroidery machines. The direct vertical clamping force holds the "sandwich" tight without distorting the material, and the speed of removing/attaching the hoop for those back-lining steps is doubled.

Warning: Magnet Safety
Magnetic hoops use industrial-grade neodymium magnets.
* Pinch Hazard: They snap together with extreme force. Keep fingers clear of the contact zone.
* Health: Keep them away from pacemakers, insulin pumps, and credit cards.
* Handling: Never let the top and bottom magnets sustain a "free fall" snap—they can shatter.

For those producing volumes (10+ bags), adding a magnetic hooping station ensures that every D-ring and placement line lands in exactly the same spot, reducing the "reject rate" to near zero.

Quick fixes for the two problems that scare people most: skipped stitches and presser foot drag

Martyn calls out two classic issues. Here is how to fix them efficiently.

Symptom 1: Skipped Stitches on Trapunto

• The Sound: A "thump-thump" but no stitch forms, or you see the bobbin thread lying straight on the back.
• Likely Cause: The double batting is pushing the needle away, creating "Flagging" (fabric bouncing up and down).
• The Fix:
  1. Needle: Switch to a Size 90/14. A thicker needle creates a larger hole for the thread to penetrate.
  2. Tension: Lower top tension.
  3. Speed: Slow down to give the loop time to form.

Symptom 2: Presser Foot Drag (stalling near D-rings)

• The Sound: A grinding noise or the fabric bunching up in front of the foot.
• Likely Cause: The foot is too low for the stack height.
• The Fix: Go into your machine settings and Increase Embroidery Foot Height. If your machine is mechanical, pause and manually help the fabric (very gently) glide past the hump—but keep fingers away from the needle!

**Phase 3: Final Operation Checklist**

• D-Ring Safety: Taped down and checked for clearance?
• Sandwich Order: Back Fabric Face Down (Top) + Lining Face Down (Bottom)?
• Turning Gap: Identified where the opening is? (Don't stitch it closed!).
• Speed: Machine dialed down to 500 SPM for the final triple-stitch run?

If you follow Martyn’s rigorous order—double batting trapunto, stabilized lining, two-stage clasp, and back-of-hoop control—you will end up with a clutch that closes with a satisfying snap, feels substantial in the hand, and looks intentionally engineered rather than "just survived the hoop."

FAQ

• Q: What needle size and needle type should be used for trapunto ITH stitching on PU (polyurethane/faux leather) with double batting in a 6x10 hoop project like the Peony Clutch?
  A: Start with a fresh Size 90/14 needle (Topstitch or Jeans) to penetrate the thick PU + double batting stack more reliably.
  • Install: Replace the needle before starting the flap (don’t “push one more project” on a dull needle).
  • Match: Use that 90/14 when the project includes hardware and multiple layers that increase stack height.
  • Success check: Stitches form consistently without “thump-thump” impacts and without long straight bobbin lines showing on the back.
  • If it still fails: Slow the machine to 400–600 SPM and lower top tension by about 1.0–1.5 from your usual setting (use the machine manual as the final reference).
• Q: How can top tension be adjusted for trapunto on PU leather to prevent bobbin thread dots on the top or puckering during ITH clutch flap stitching?
  A: Lower the top tension slightly so the stitch lays flat instead of pulling bobbin thread to the surface.
  • Adjust: Drop top tension by about 1.0–1.5 from your normal range (the blog’s example references moving from ~3.0–4.0 down toward ~100–110g).
  • Run: Stitch at 400–600 SPM to reduce drag and heat on thick stacks.
  • Success check: The top looks clean (no “white dot” bobbin peeking) and the PU surface stays smooth without tunneling or puckers.
  • If it still fails: Re-check needle freshness/size (90/14) and confirm the project is properly supported with cutaway during the flap stage.
• Q: Why should cutaway stabilizer be used for the trapunto flap stage of an ITH PU clutch instead of tearaway stabilizer?
  A: Use cutaway on the flap because trapunto’s dense stitches can perforate tearaway and let the design lose suspension mid-process.
  • Choose: Cutaway for the flap when double batting + PU needs “permanent support” during loft-forming stitches.
  • Save: Switch to tearaway later for the body/assembly when clean removal and reduced bulk matter.
  • Success check: The hoop stays stable through dense outline/backstitch work without the stabilizer shredding or separating.
  • If it still fails: Increase hoop security (tighten the hoop screw with a screwdriver) and make sure you left enough stabilizer margin to handle floating layers safely.
• Q: How do you trim double batting for trapunto in an ITH clutch flap so the PU leather edge looks smooth instead of chunky?
  A: Trim one batting layer at a time to create a feathered “gradient edge,” not a hard cliff.
  • Trim: After the outline stitch, cut the first batting layer, then trim the second slightly farther back.
  • Use: Double-curved embroidery scissors (duckbill style works especially well on batting).
  • Success check: The trimmed edge feels like a gentle ramp when you run a finger over it, and the PU drapes smoothly without a visible step.
  • If it still fails: Slow down and avoid trying to cut both layers at once (that’s when stepped edges and stabilizer nicks happen).
• Q: How can spray-basting the lining to a separate cutaway stabilizer sheet prevent lining pleats and puckers in an ITH clutch flap?
  A: Spray-baste the lining to cutaway first so the lining behaves like a firm board instead of rippling under the presser foot.
  • Spray: Mist adhesive from about 10–12 inches away (avoid heavy puddles of glue).
  • Place: Put the lining/stabilizer combo right-sides-together onto the flap while it remains hooped.
  • Success check: The lining stitches down flat with no ripples/pleats forming as the hoop moves.
  • If it still fails: Stop if you hear a sticky “slap-slap” needle sound, then clean adhesive residue and re-apply spray more lightly.
• Q: What is the safest way to cut magnetic clasp slots through thick PU or cork during an ITH clutch build to avoid injuries?
  A: Cut clasp slots on a flat, non-slip surface and always cut away from the body because thick materials can “give” suddenly.
  • Set down: Place the hoop/project on a stable mat (do not hold it in the air while cutting).
  • Cut: Use a seam ripper carefully from the lining side when instructed, keeping hands out of the cut path.
  • Success check: Slots are clean and controlled with no sudden slips, and the prongs pass through without tearing the material.
  • If it still fails: Re-mark the prong positions and make smaller controlled cuts rather than forcing the tool through resistance.
• Q: How do you prevent the back-of-hoop lining from sagging and getting caught under the machine bed during ITH clutch body stitching?
  A: Tape the lining firmly on the back of the hoop and roll/tape excess so nothing can droop into the stitch path.
  • Tape: Secure all four corners with fresh painter’s tape and pull the lining taut like a bedsheet (taut, not warped).
  • Manage: Roll extra lining fabric and tape the roll to the outer hoop frame outside the sewing field.
  • Success check: No sagging “droop loop,” and the machine runs without a sudden thud/grind that indicates fabric got caught.
  • If it still fails: Replace weak/reused tape and re-check clearance by moving the hoop through its travel range before restarting.
• Q: When thick ITH PU/cork “sandwich” projects cause hoop burn, slippage, or slow re-hooping, what is a practical upgrade path from technique fixes to magnetic hoops to higher-capacity production?
  A: Start by optimizing handling and settings first, then move to magnetic clamping for repeatability, and only then consider a production machine if volume demands it.
  • Level 1 (Technique): Slow to 400–600 SPM, lower top tension for trapunto, tighten hoop screw with a screwdriver, and leave enough stabilizer margin for safe handling.
  • Level 2 (Tool): Use a magnetic embroidery hoop when standard hoops leave ring marks on PU or thick stacks creep inward during tightening.
  • Level 3 (Capacity): If producing 10+ bags and hoop management is the bottleneck, consider a multi-needle workflow and a consistent hooping setup for placement repeatability.
  • Success check: Materials stay unmarked, layers stop creeping, and repeated placements (like D-ring and flap alignment lines) land consistently with fewer rejects.
  • If it still fails: Add a dedicated hooping station for better alignment control and review hardware clearance checks (trace/handwheel) to prevent metal collisions.