Table of Contents
Video reference: “Hatch Digitizing for Applique & SVG Cutting with a Brother Scan N Cut - Machine Embroidery” by Gentleman Crafter
A fashion illustration brought to life: you’ll digitize clean appliqué shapes, cut fabric precisely on a Scan N Cut, and embroider a lively, sketch-style finish on a Brother machine. This guide follows the exact moves and stitch choices so you can replicate the look with confidence.
What you’ll learn
- How to trace appliqué shapes in Hatch using click-for-corner/curve controls.
- When to use single run, backstitch, and sculpture run stitches for a sketchy aesthetic.
- How to export SVG cutting files from Hatch for a Brother Scan N Cut.
- How to sequence the embroidery: light placement, gray detail, then black sketch lines.
- How to avoid unnecessary jump stitches and keep sketch lines inside appliqué areas.
Primer (What & When) Appliqué plus sketch-style embroidery gives you crisp fabric fill with expressive stitch lines. In this project, the dress and hat are cut from fabric, then stitched with sketched outlines and details for a free-motion look created entirely by the machine.
Where this shines
- When you want precise fabric shapes that drop perfectly into your embroidery.
- When you’re aiming for a hand-sketched look using automated stitches.
- When you want a fast, repeatable workflow for gifts, decor, or even embroidered cards (a reader praised this application).
Prerequisites
- You’re comfortable navigating Hatch Embroidery.
- You know the basics of operating a Brother Scan N Cut and a Brother embroidery machine.
Constraints and scope
- The workflow shown uses Hatch Embroidery, exports SVGs for Scan N Cut, and stitches on a Brother embroidery machine.
- The on-screen hoop was configured to 700×300 mm during setup; use the hoop that fits your actual machine and project.
Pro tip Keep each element in its own layer and lock it after digitizing. It prevents accidental edits as you add more parts.
Prep Tools and software
- Hatch Embroidery software.
- Brother Scan N Cut with rotary cutting blade and fabric mat.
- Brother embroidery machine.
Materials
- Fabric for appliqué pieces (dress and hat).
- Linen base fabric.
- Stabilizer.
- Threads: one light for placement, dark gray for outlines, black for the final sketch.
- Fabric glue and scissors.
Files
- Reference artwork image (PNG/JPG) to trace.
- Hatch design file (.EMB) for editable work-in-progress.
- SVG cutting files for appliqué.
- Embroidery stitch file (PES) for the Brother machine.
Workspace
- Clear desk space for your computer and cutting/embroidery stations.
Watch out Make sure your machine, hoop, and measurements are set in Hatch before you digitize—this prevents scale surprises later.
Quick check Open Hatch and confirm your hoop configuration before importing artwork.
Checklist — Prep
- Hatch installed and opens with your hoop configured.
- Reference artwork ready to import.
- Scan N Cut with rotary blade and fabric mat.
- Base fabric, appliqué fabric, stabilizer, threads, glue.
Setup 1) Import reference artwork and lock it
- Import your fashion illustration (PNG/JPG) into Hatch.
- Center/scale as needed for your hoop.
- Lock the artwork layer to prevent accidental shifts as you trace.
Outcome: The art is visible but immovable; you can digitize on top with confidence.
2) Color strategy
- Assign distinct colors as you build elements to keep layers visually separate.
Outcome: Each element is easy to select, edit, and lock independently.
Pro tip Zoom in tight when placing points; zoom out periodically to evaluate the whole silhouette against the reference.
Checklist — Setup
- Artwork imported, centered, and locked.
- Hoop size confirmed in Hatch.
- Color plan in mind (placement, sketch outlines, final detailing).
Operation / Steps Step 1 — Digitize the dress appliqué shape
- Select Digitize Closed Shape.
- Left-click for straight corners; right-click for curved corners.
- Trace the dress outline carefully. Use Backspace to remove a prior point when needed.
- Set stitch type to Single Run Stitch for a clean cutting and placement outline.
- Assign a specific color to distinguish it.
- Lock the dress layer when finished.
Expected result: A smooth, accurate dress outline following the reference art.
Watch out Over-clicking on straight sections causes bumps. Space points on long straights; cluster more points around tight curves.
Step 2 — Digitize the hat appliqué shape
- Use Digitize Closed Shape again to trace the hat.
- If Hatch defaults to a fill, switch it to a single run outline—this will become the cutting/placement shape.
- Lock the hat layer.
Expected result: A hat outline that mirrors the reference and stays separate from the dress layer.
Quick check Toggle the artwork visibility off to ensure both appliqué outlines are closed and clean.
Step 3 — Sketch the arms and head with Backstitch
- Use a freehand open shape tool with Backstitch.
- Click once, then drag to sketch an organic line for arms and head.
- Use the Reshape tool to add nodes or correct curves after drawing.
- Lock this layer once you’re happy.
Expected result: A loose, hand-drawn outline that suggests anatomy without heavy fills.
Pro tip Use extra nodes only where control is needed—fewer points make smoother curves.
Step 4 — Add hair and shoulder details with Sculpture Run Stitch
- Switch to a Sculpture Run Stitch for free-motion style lines.
- Sketch hair, shoulder lines, and selective dress details in short, manageable segments.
- Backtrack on top of your line when you want added density without creating a new run.
- Be mindful of jump stitches: finish one segment where the next segment starts to minimize jumps.
- Keep key stitch lines inside the appliqué area so these lines help tack the fabric when stitched later.
Expected result: Flowing lines that feel hand-sketched, with minimized and well-placed jumps.
Watch out If a line wanders outside the planned appliqué area, trim and redraw so the fabric will be tacked down by those runs rather than floating.
Step 5 — Finish sketch details and save the EMB
- Complete perimeter accents and small touches (e.g., a tiny flower detail on the hat in this project).
- Save your work as a .EMB file to preserve full editability of nodes and stitch types.
Expected result: A complete, layered, editable design that captures the sketch aesthetic and respects appliqué boundaries.
Checklist — Operation
- Dress and hat outlines traced as single run, closed shapes.
- Arms/head sketched with Backstitch; details with Sculpture Run.
- Jump stitches planned to be short and uncrossed where possible.
- .EMB saved before export.
Pro tip Name files consistently so cutting and stitch files sort together in your folder.
Seamless export and cutting Export appliqué shapes as SVGs
- Unlock and select only the appliqué layers (dress and hat).
- File > Export Cutting.
- Choose SVG for Brother Scan N Cut.
- Save to a known folder.
Expected result: SVG files that match your stitched outlines precisely.
Export your embroidery stitch file (PES)
- File > Export Design.
- Choose PES for Brother machines; save with the same base name.
Expected result: A PES file ready for transfer to your Brother embroidery machine.
Cut the appliqué fabric on the Scan N Cut
- Place fabric on the fabric mat and run the rotary cutting blade.
- Cut the dress and hat pieces guided by your SVGs.
Expected result: Clean, accurate appliqué pieces with edges true to your digitized outlines.
Quick check Dry-fit your fabric pieces on the hooped base to confirm scale and placement alignment.
Embroidery: stitching it all together Hoop and stitch order
- Hoop linen with stabilizer.
- Stitch the light placement outline for the dress.
- Stitch the dark gray outlines for arms and facial features.
- Lightly glue the cut fabric pieces (dress—and the hat if included) onto the placement area.
- Stitch the final sketchy lines in black to complete the look.
Expected result: Fabric appliqué crisply fills the dress (and hat), with layered sketch lines adding personality and depth.
Watch out Don’t forget to adhere every appliqué piece before the final black passes—missing a piece (like the hat) means it won’t be caught by those sketch lines.
Pro tip Place sketchy line segments so they don’t cross other jumps—the crossed bits may get locked under subsequent stitching and become harder to trim.
Quality Checks At the digitizing stage
- Outlines are fully closed and don’t wobble on long straights.
- Backstitch and Sculpture Run lines have a natural cadence without jittery over-pointing.
- Jumps are short and placed logically from end to start.
Before export
- Only intended appliqué shapes are selected for SVG export.
- .EMB saved with all layers locked as needed; PES naming matches your SVGs.
After cutting
- Fabric shapes match the placement outlines when dry-fitted.
- Edges are smooth with no fraying from the cut pass.
On the machine
- Placement line is visible but light.
- Appliqué is adhered neatly within the placement boundary.
- Final black passes neatly overlap edges where needed for a finished look.
Quick check If the sketch lines look “off,” compare them to your .EMB: were lines placed inside the appliqué area so they help tack fabric? If not, adjust and re-export.
Results & Handoff Deliverables from this workflow
- .EMB master file for future edits.
- SVGs for each appliqué shape (dress and hat here).
- .PES embroidery file that runs cleanly on the Brother machine.
Creative applications
- Great for artful garments, bags, frameable panels, or small gifts.
- A reader noted it’s a lovely approach for an embroidered card—this sketch aesthetic reads beautifully at small scale.
File management tip Use a common base name across EMB, SVG, and PES, plus a date stamp, for quick retrieval later.
Troubleshooting & Recovery Symptom: The hat or dress doesn’t fit the placement line.
- Likely cause: Artwork moved during digitizing, or hoop size mismatch during setup.
- Fix: Lock artwork immediately after import; confirm hoop settings before tracing; re-export SVGs and PES after corrections.
Symptom: Excessive jump stitches that are hard to clean.
- Likely cause: Line segments start/end far apart or crisscross.
- Fix: End a segment where the next begins; avoid crossing jumps so trimming stays clean; backtrack to add density without new jumps.
Symptom: Lines look shaky or uneven.
- Likely cause: Too many nodes or inconsistent curve control.
- Fix: Use fewer points on straights; add a node only where curvature changes; reshape nodes after sketching rather than redrawing whole lines.
Symptom: Fabric shifts during cutting on the Scan N Cut.
- Likely cause: Fabric not well adhered to the fabric mat.
- Fix: Re-press the fabric to the mat and ensure the fabric mat is used with the rotary blade as shown.
Symptom: Appliqué lifts during final stitching.
- Likely cause: Too little glue before the black passes.
- Fix: Add a light, even layer of fabric glue and let it set just enough so pieces stay put; then proceed to stitching.
Quick isolation tests
- Toggle visibility of your artwork and outlines in Hatch to validate closure and alignment.
- Dry-fit cut pieces in the hoop before gluing to confirm scale.
From the comments
- “Great design approach for an embroidered card!” Many readers loved the light, sketched finish for paper-friendly projects—keep stitch density modest and placement lines light for card applications.
- “Awesome make” and “Gorgeous creation” echoed the value of combining simple appliqué shapes with expressive, sketchy runs.
Optional gear notes (reader interest)
- Some readers explore accessories that simplify placement. If you already use a hoop master embroidery hooping station, it can streamline repeat placements across multiples.
- Working with magnetic frames is a preference for some stitchers. If you own an embroidery magnetic hoops setup or a brother magnetic embroidery frame, align carefully so the placement line still registers with your cut pieces.
- Snap-style frames are another route if you have them on hand—e.g., a dime snap hoop—just ensure fabric and stabilizer stay flat to preserve sketch line accuracy.
- If you prefer broader compatibility and already use magnetic hoops for embroidery, test stability with your chosen stabilizer before committing to a long sketch run.
- Owners of specific machines sometimes ask about compatibility. If you stitch on a Brother Stellaire and already have a magnetic hoop for brother stellaire, confirm your hoop in Hatch matches the physical hoop before tracing.
- For repeat placements, some people shorthand the brand name to hoopmaster. Regardless of fixture, the principle remains: keep your baseline placement pass visible and square.