Digitizing a Namaste Mandala in Hatch (Part 2): Satin Borders, Tatami Center, and Flawless Sequencing

Primer: What this part achieves (and when to use it)

Part 2 focuses on finishing the Namaste Mandala by: 1) adding satin-stitched borders around the motif, and 2) digitizing the central Namaste symbol with a dense fill for smooth coverage. It also covers how to arrange stitch order so the final embroidery is tidy, with minimal trailing threads and a reduced risk of puckering.

Why this matters: Borders define geometry and catch the eye first—sloppy border stitching will show. And the center symbol is a large, complex shape; using the right fill delivers even texture without dips or breaks.

If you completed Part 1’s background and line work, you’re ready for border refinement and the focal symbol. If you’re stitching on a variety of hoops or frames, the digitized result here is software-agnostic—you’ll export to your machine’s format later. If hoop space is snug, consider stable hooping options; some embroiderers prefer magnet-assisted frames for convenience, such as embroidery magnetic hoops, while others stick with traditional clamps.

Prep: Files, tools, and smart checks

• Software: Hatch Embroidery installed and functional

• File: Your Namaste Mandala from Part 1 (background + line work in place)

• Workspace: Clear view of the Objects/Sequence tab and Object Properties panels

Pre-flight checks

• Open the mandala file and verify layer visibility (you’ll be adding borders and a filled symbol).

• Confirm you can access open and closed shape digitize tools, layout tools, and stitch type settings.

• Keep Object Properties visible; you’ll adjust width, stitch type, and radial fill from there.

Pro tip

• Before any large edits, save a copy of your file. This gives you a reversible “branch” when trying alternative fills or outlines.

Checklist — Prep

• Hatch open and responsive

• Part 1 file loaded

• Sequence and Object Properties panels visible

• Recent backup copy saved

Setup: Stitch types, widths, and replication strategy

You’ll create border segments as open shapes, set them to a crisp satin stitch, and replicate them around the mandala. Then you’ll digitize the Namaste symbol using closed shapes and ultimately switch its fill to tatami for better coverage.

Key settings for borders

• Stitch type: Satin

• Width: 1.5 mm (fine and neat)

• Layout plan: Digitize one section cleanly, then replicate around the circle and weld

Why 1.5 mm? It’s narrow enough to read sharply along the mandala and still cover evenly. Wider satin might look bulky; thinner satin risks gaps.

Quick check - After digitizing a single border section, toggle between stitch views and node views to confirm in/out points are intentional and corners are smooth.

Replication strategy - Use the layout tools to radial-copy your single border segment around the design. After replication, weld the segments so they perform like a single border run where appropriate.

Corner coverage - If corners look “stretched” or sparse, open Object Properties and use radial fill so the stitch direction follows the arc better. This change can tighten spacing visually and reduce the look of gaps.

Checklist — Setup

• Satin set to 1.5 mm for borders

• One clean border segment digitized

• Radial copy planned/complete

• Welding decided/applied

• Radial fill ready for corner refinement

Operation: Digitize borders, then the Namaste symbol

Step 1 — Borders with fine satin

1) Select the digitize open-shape tool and plot a single border section with satin = 1.5 mm. Ensure entry and exit points are logical for joining segments. 2) Replicate using the radial layout tool. Confirm spacing around the circle. 3) Choose to weld segments so they behave cohesively. 4) Inspect corners; if satin looks spaced out, apply radial fill to improve coverage.

Expected result: Crisp, uniform satin borders arranged around the mandala, with corners that don’t “thin out.”

Watch out

• Sloppy in/out points can force unnecessary jumps later. Fix them now while the segment is still isolated.

Decision point

• If a corner still looks sparse after radial fill, consider subtle node adjustments before changing stitch width. Over-widening can undermine the fine-line look you established.

Step 2 — The Namaste symbol: switch satin to tatami for smooth coverage

You’ll start by digitizing closed shapes and testing satin fill. For this complex symbol, satin can break or produce dips. Changing to tatami fill provides denser, smoother coverage with fewer abrupt breaks.

1) Choose a color and digitize the symbol’s sections with the Closed Shape tool. Start with simpler sections to confirm proportion.

2) Preview satin fill; if you see breaks or unevenness, select the object(s) and switch the stitch type to tatami fill. It’s a one-click change—no need to re-plot.

3) While plotting complex curves, use backspace to undo the last point and re-plot until the edge reads cleanly. This keeps your contours precise.

4) Check jumps between sections. Tweak in/out points or minor sequence order to avoid long, trailing threads. 5) Test the Florentine effect if you’re curious—but it’s optional here. In practice, it wasn’t needed for this symbol’s look and was left off. 6) Add outlines and offsets to give the symbol a subtle lift from the background. Adjust until the edges read clearly without crowding.

Expected result: A dense, even tatami-filled Namaste symbol with clean contours and minimal jump threads, optionally enhanced by tasteful outlines/offsets.

Pro tip

• Tatami fills add visual calm to complex shapes. If a satin area “breaks” or “roses” at curves, switching to tatami often solves the problem in one move.

Checklist — Operation

• Borders: satin 1.5 mm, replicated and welded

• Corners: radial fill applied if needed

• Symbol: closed shapes plotted cleanly

• Stitch type switched to tatami where satin misbehaved

• Outlines/offsets applied

• Jumps minimized

Quality checks: Jumps, order, corners, and coverage

Sequence defines tidiness. Review the Objects/Sequence tab: it stitches top-to-bottom in the list. Position elements so the run naturally progresses with minimal backtracking.

What to verify

• Jumps: Are entry/exit points close to the next object? If not, reorder or adjust.

• Corners: Does radial fill in the border resolve spaced-out areas?

• Coverage: Does the tatami fill look uniform, with no obvious dips?

Virtual stitch-out Use the built-in player to “stitch” the entire design virtually. Because it’s fast (you can set the slider to speed up), it’s perfect for validating that the order looks logical and clean.

Quick check

• As the simulation plays, watch for any long travel between objects. If you spot one, pause, adjust order or in/out points, and replay.

Note on puckering

• Fabric behavior can be influenced by stitch order. Consider whether your plan stitches outside-in or inside-out; adjusting that sequence can help mitigate puckering. This is worth testing in simulation and confirming in real stitch-outs.

From workflow to hooping

• Your digitized file will export to your machine’s format. If your hooping area is tight, selecting a stable frame can make alignment easier. Many users like magnet-assisted options (for convenience) next to classic clamp-style frames; for example, some opt for magnetic hoops for embroidery to reduce re-hooping fuss on dense projects.

Results & handoff: Save, export, and colorway ideas

Save your refined file, then export in your machine’s format. Before committing to a physical stitch-out, run one more simulation pass to confirm order and jump minimization. On real fabric, you can explore thread changes—variations in color can dramatically shift the mood of the mandala.

Expect these outcomes

• Satin borders that read as precise rings with improved corner coverage

• A center symbol that’s evenly filled with tatami, resisting dips or break lines

• A sequence that runs top-down logically in the Objects list, avoiding long jumps

Creative variations

• Try alternate outlines/offsets for the center symbol. Changing their thickness or spacing can add subtle dimensionality.

• The final sample in this walkthrough used “funky” colors for personality; test several to discover the palette that suits your project best.

If you’re planning to stitch this on multiple machines or frames, it helps to keep backup exports ready for various setups. For workflow flexibility, some embroiderers keep both standard frames and magnet-assisted ones at hand, including options like dime snap hoop or brand-specific choices such as a brother 5x7 magnetic hoop for compact designs.

Troubleshooting & recovery: Sequence, corners, and fills

Symptom → Likely cause → Fix

• Spaced-out corners on the border

→ Satin angle isn’t following the arc → Apply radial fill in Object Properties; tweak angles or nodes if needed

• Dips/“rose” lines in the symbol fill

→ Satin over a wide/complex shape → Switch the object to tatami fill for even coverage

• Excessive jump threads

→ Inefficient in/out points or object order → Reorder in the Sequence tab and reassign entry/exit points where practical

• Puckering in final stitch-out

→ Sequence may be pulling fabric toward the center or edge → Test outside-in vs. inside-out order; adopt the calmer option in simulation

• Uneven symbol edges after plotting

→ Over-plotted nodes or wobbly curves → Use backspace during plotting to undo the last point; reduce points and smooth

Pro tip

• If you’re on a tight hoop or working near the edge of your field, stabilize the hooping workflow you prefer. Some embroiderers rely on alignment stations for consistent placement, such as a hoop master embroidery hooping station, while others lean on magnet-assisted frames like mighty hoops for brother or a magnetic hoop for janome 500e for convenience—pick the method that keeps your fabric reliably flat.

Watch out

• Over-widening the satin width to “fix” corners is a trap. The 1.5 mm line is part of the mandala’s refinement. Solve coverage with radial fill and direction control first.

Quick check

• After every re-ordering in the Sequence tab, run a short section of the virtual stitch-out where the change occurs, rather than replaying the entire file. It’s faster and focuses your review.

From the comments

The community feedback on this process highlights clarity and ease of following along. That’s consistent with the approach here: small, deliberate adjustments—like switching the symbol to tatami and using radial fill on corners—pay off in a much tidier stitch-out.

Side note for hooping variety: When you’re iterating colorways and doing multiple samples, convenient frames can speed setup. Some stitchers like magnet-assisted options such as embroidery magnetic hoops in addition to standard rings, depending on fabric and project size. Others prefer brand-labeled options for their specific machines (e.g., mighty hoops for brother or compact frames like a brother 5x7 magnetic hoop). Choose the approach that keeps fabric stable and your workflow calm.