Table of Contents
What is 3D Puff Embroidery and Why Use It?
3D puff embroidery adds dimension by stitching directly over foam to create a raised effect. Manny begins by showing two caps side-by-side: one with a flat logo and one with a puffed logo, so you can see the visual difference instantly. The result is depth that pops on structured caps and a finish that feels premium.
Beyond looks, Manny notes a practical win: decorators can typically charge a bit more for 3D puff while using a relatively inexpensive extra material—foam. He emphasizes that you can source foam affordably and locally.
Pro tip
- If you’re building an add-on menu for clients, list 3D puff as a premium finish and specify that the foam is included (no need to itemize every supply).
Quick check
- Does your design have a bold section that would benefit from height? Lettering and logos with solid fills often make the best candidates for 3D puff.
Essential Materials for 3D Puff Embroidery
Manny keeps the materials list short, practical, and budget-friendly.
- Foam: This is the core material that creates the raised effect. You’ll stitch over it to build height. Manny points out you can find foam at arts and crafts stores; the team picked some up at Walmart.
- Scissors: To cut foam to size.
- Tape: To hold the foam in place during stitching.
The Role of Foam in 3D Designs
Foam acts like a temporary spacer. Once stitched over, the foam under the stitches remains and everything outside the stitch lines can be torn away. That’s how you end up with a clean, raised surface and minimal cleanup beyond the edges.
Choosing the Right Foam Color
This is crucial. Manny intentionally demonstrates with contrasting foam to show why color choice matters. If your foam color is different from your top thread, tiny bits can peek out at the edges or around tight corners. The fix is more cleanup work with heat and careful tucking. Matching foam color to your top thread minimizes those touch-ups.
From the comments
- Viewers asked about foam thickness. Brand replies noted that 3 mm foam is a solid option, and that 1.5–3 mm can work depending on the effect you want. If using thicker foam, they suggested considering a presser-foot adjustment; this detail was not shown in the video but appears in the comment thread.
- Several commenters also confirmed that standard craft foam can be used, and links to commercial “3D foam” were shared by the brand.
Other Handy Tools: Scissors and Tape
A few pieces of tape can be the difference between a clean, even puff and a misaligned mess. Tape the foam along its edges—away from the path of the needle—to keep it steady while stitching. Manny also shows why cutting the foam slightly oversized can make placement easier: you get more tapeable area without risking the needle hitting the tape.
Watch out
- Keep tape out of the stitch path. If the needle catches adhesive, it can cause thread breaks or buildup.
Machine Setup and Design Digitization for Success
Before running any stitches, Manny confirms the cap is properly hooped on the machine. He emphasizes two setup essentials: a design digitized specifically for 3D puff and the correct machine mode.
The Importance of Digitized Designs
For 3D puff to work, the design must be digitized with an order that supports foam placement: underlay first, border (outline) second, and the puff pass last. The video notes that properly digitized 3D puff designs also include small “stitch points” at the start of the puff pass—these tack the foam in place so the main fill can cover it cleanly.
Switching to Automatic/Manual Mode
Manny changes the machine from fully automatic to automatic/manual. This creates deliberate pause points: one after the underlay, and one after the border. When the machine stops before the final puff pass, that’s your window to place and tape the foam.
Quick check
- Is your design loaded and traced? Is the cap firmly hooped? Is the machine set to automatic/manual mode? Confirm these before you press start.
From the comments
- A viewer asked if you can use any design; the brand replied that 3D puff needs a specially digitized file. The video reinforces this by showing the staged order and mentioning stitch points.
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Step-by-Step: Embroidering Your 3D Puff Design
Stitching the Underlay and Border
Press start and let the machine stitch the underlay directly on the cap. Then it will stitch the border or outline. Because the machine is in automatic/manual mode, it pauses after these passes. At this point, you should see a clean outline on the cap, but no foam yet.
Watch out
- If the machine doesn’t pause, stop immediately and verify the mode is set correctly. You do not want to stitch the puff pass before placing foam.
Precisely Placing and Taping the Foam
While the machine is paused, place the foam over the area to be puffed, ensuring full coverage beyond the outer stitch lines. Tape the foam’s edges to the cap so it won’t shift. Manny demonstrates taping the sides and reminds you to keep tape clear of the stitch path. Oversizing the foam helps—just make sure the needle won’t hit the tape.
Pro tip
- If you’re unsure whether your foam fully covers the area, err on the side of slightly larger. You’ll tear away the excess later.
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Executing the 3D Puff Stitch Points
Press start to resume. You’ll see brief tack-downs—stitch points—that help lock the foam before the machine begins the full puff stitch. After those points, it continues with the 3D pass, stitching over the foam and creating that signature dome. Watch to ensure the foam stays flat and the stitches lay cleanly.
Quick check
- Are stitches uniform and covering the foam?
- Is the foam staying in place without lifting or wrinkling?
From the comments
- Time estimates vary by design. One brand reply suggested about 30 minutes per hat, depending on size and complexity.
Post-Embroidery Cleanup: Achieving a Flawless Finish
You’ve stitched the puff—now it’s time to reveal it.
Removing Excess Foam Effortlessly
Remove the cap from the machine and gently tear away the foam from around the perimeter of the design. Manny notes it behaves much like tear-away stabilizer. Don’t forget to peel out any interior voids (like inside letters). Pull slowly and carefully around tight curves.
Pro tip
- If a small piece won’t release, angle your pull parallel to the stitch edge rather than yanking straight up.
Refining Edges with Heat and Tools
The video shows a simple, effective method for dealing with tiny foam specks peeking out: heat. Manny uses a lighter (a heat gun also works) to apply heat above the surface—never letting the flame touch the fabric. Gentle passes shrink exposed foam and help it retreat under the stitches. Then, with fine snips, he tucks any persistent edges to finish the perimeter neatly.
Watch out
- Do not place the flame directly on the design or cap. Hover and move; heat does the work. Direct flame risks burn marks.
From the comments
- Some viewers suggested applying heat from inside the cap to reduce risk of scorching the front; brand replies acknowledged that different methods can work and depend on materials and preference.
- Needle guidance varied in the comments. Multiple brand replies recommended a 75/11; others mentioned 80/12 depending on the cap and details. The video itself doesn’t specify needle sizes.
The Impact of Foam Color on Final Look
Manny purposefully used orange foam under red thread to show why matching matters. After tearing away excess, tiny hints of orange remained in a few spots. With heat and a bit of edge-tucking, he cleaned it up nicely—but this extra step is often unnecessary when foam and thread colors are closely matched.
Quick check
- After cleanup, do you see any visible foam at typical viewing distance? If yes, repeat brief heat passes and tuck with snips.
Conclusion: Elevate Your Embroidery Skills
You don’t need special gadgets or a long supply list to produce standout puff embroidery. With a design digitized specifically for 3D puff, the right machine setting to pause at the crucial moment, and careful foam placement, you can create clean, professional domed lettering and logos on caps. Finish with mindful tear-away and safe heat cleanup, and you’ll have a premium result you can confidently price as an upgrade.
Recap of Key Takeaways
- Digitize for 3D: underlay, border, then puff—with stitch points to secure foam.
- Switch to automatic/manual mode to pause before the puff pass.
- Color-match foam to top thread to minimize cleanup.
- Tape foam at the edges, clear of the stitch path.
- Tear away excess, then use indirect heat and snips to refine edges.
From the comments
- Foam thickness guidance (often 3 mm) and needle suggestions (commonly 75/11) came up frequently. Presser-foot height adjustments for thicker foam were mentioned by the brand in comments, though not shown in this video.
Join Our Community for More Tips
- The video invites embroiderers to join the Embroidery & Custom Apparel Mastery Facebook group to ask questions, share progress, and learn from others.
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Additional notes for brand and machine users
- This tutorial uses a Ricoma machine; the exact model is not specified in the video. The process shown—design digitization for puff, machine pause for foam, careful cleanup—applies broadly to cap embroidery setups. If you work on another platform and prefer accessory aids, explore whether your brand supports hat frames and stabilizing options. Users of various brands often discuss accessories like magnetic frames and cap hoops in community groups. magnetic hoops for brother