Table of Contents
Introduction to Shirring
Shirring uses elastic thread in the bobbin and regular thread on top to gently gather fabric across multiple parallel rows. As you sew, the fabric starts to draw up; by the final row, you get that iconic, springy grid that’s perfect for comfortable bodices, waistlines, and cuffs.
Shirring is surprisingly simple once your prep is right. The video keeps things straightforward: clear marks, a hand-wound elastic bobbin, a long straight stitch, and a steady pace. Do a small test first to tune settings to your machine and fabric.
Pro tip: Think in panels. It’s easier to shirr flat pieces first and then join them into garments, so the elastic can pull fabric freely without distortion.
Essential Supplies for Shirring
You don’t need special attachments—just the right threads and a few everyday tools.
Fabric Choices
The tutorial uses a light-to-medium-weight woven. Lighter fabrics gather more dramatically; heavier ones gather less. If you want a strong, springy finish, start with something that’s easy to handle and won’t fight the elastic.
Quick check: More rows = more elastic thread used = more elasticity. Plan the number of lines for the amount of stretch you want.
Elastic Thread Essentials
Use narrow elastic thread for the bobbin. The video shows a slim elastic (0.5 mm is mentioned in the product packaging shown) that’s commonly available. There’s nothing fancy about it—just make sure it’s fresh and springy.
Watch out: Elastic is plastic-based. It can melt under direct heat. Keep this in mind when you steam at the end.
Other Tools
- Regular (non-elastic) sewing thread for the top thread
- A fabric marker (the tutorial uses a heat-erasable friction pen)
- A clear ruler for spacing lines evenly
- A standard presser foot and straight stitch plate are sufficient
- An iron with strong steam output
From the bench: If you also customize your finished shirred garments with machine embroidery, plan embellishment before assembly so the fabric stays flat while you stitch. If you embroider, you might already use magnetic embroidery frames, which can help on flat panels—but embroider before you shirr to avoid distorting the elastic panel.
Preparing Your Fabric and Machine
Smooth prep pays off in straighter lines and more even stretch.
Marking Your Shirring Lines
Use a ruler and a heat-erasable pen to draw parallel lines. In the tutorial, lines are spaced about 1 cm apart. The more lines you add, the more the fabric gathers—so if you’re chasing that classic, highly elastic smock, commit to several rows.
Quick check: Are the lines straight and evenly spaced? Fix now; it’s much harder later.
Use a flat, well-lit surface so your ruler doesn’t rock on ripples.
Hand-Winding the Bobbin
This is the make-or-break step. Take an empty bobbin and hand-wind the elastic thread with a gentle touch. Don’t pull it tight—over-tension here kills the stretch. This is why you skip the machine’s bobbin winder; it winds too tightly for elastic. Also, don’t overfill the bobbin—leave space so it turns freely in the case.
If you’re unsure about feel, wind a small sample and test-stitch on a scrap. You can always unwind and redo if it looks too tight or too packed.
Threading Your Machine
Thread the top path with regular sewing thread as you normally would. Insert the hand-wound elastic bobbin and pull the bobbin thread up through the needle plate. The top thread should be non-elastic; the bobbin thread should be elastic.
Watch out: If the bobbin doesn’t feed smoothly, reinsert it or reduce how much you wound on. A balky bobbin leads to skipped stitches and uneven gathers.
Sewing the Shirring
With good prep, the actual stitching is refreshingly straightforward.
Machine Settings for Success
Use a regular straight stitch and lengthen it to a long setting. In the tutorial, the stitch length is set around 4 on the machine’s scale. Settings vary widely, so test on your fabric and adjust if needed.
Pro tip: A longer stitch helps the elastic do its job across the fabric, gathering more smoothly.
Step-by-Step Sewing
Start at the first line. Do a backstitch at the very beginning to lock the elastic. Then sew down the line steadily. At the end of the line, sew off the fabric, lift the presser foot, pivot, and place the fabric at the next line. Start stitching immediately—no backstitch for the intermediate rows. Repeat for each marked line.
When you reach the final line, finish with a backstitch to secure the elastic, then trim your threads neatly. This approach—locking only the first and last rows—keeps the in-between rows smooth and prevents extra bulk.
As you add rows, you’ll see the fabric draw up and become springy. That’s your sign things are working. Keep your spacing consistent and your pace even for tidy, parallel channels.
Watch out: If the elastic thread breaks mid-row, don’t panic. Re-thread, back up slightly into the previous stitches, and overlap by a few stitches so the row remains secure.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
- Not enough gather: The elastic bobbin may have been wound too tight. Rewind with a gentler touch and test again. You can also try a longer stitch.
- Uneven gathering: Check that your rows are straight and evenly spaced. Also confirm the bobbin is feeding freely and that the upper thread is threaded correctly.
- Tension questions: The creator suggests starting with your normal tension and then loosening or tightening slightly only if needed for your particular machine.
- Sewing order on garments: Shirr panels first, then sew side seams to lock the shirring into those seams for a clean finish and to help prevent unraveling over time.
- Replacing worn shirring: Remove the shirred panel from the garment and re-shirr it while flat; trying to re-shirr while it’s still attached is very difficult due to the pulling force of the elastic.
From the comments: A reader asked about whether a special gathering foot is required. The creator notes a standard presser foot works fine. When hand-winding, give the elastic only a gentle tug—never tight.
If you’re dabbling in embroidery on flat panels before you shirr, some crafters like tools such as snap hoop monster or dime magnetic hoop to stabilize layers on compatible embroidery machines. Keep embroidery and shirring as separate steps: embroider first while it’s flat, then return to your sewing machine to shirr.
Finishing Touches
When all rows are stitched, the final step refines the texture and cleans up markings.
Steaming for the Perfect Shirr
Set your iron to maximum steam. Hover above the fabric—don’t press down. The steam relaxes and evens the shirring and, if you used a heat-erasable pen, it removes your markings. Keep the iron moving and elevated to protect the plastic elastic thread from direct heat.
You’ll see the channels settle and the gathers look more uniform. The right side shows your top stitches neatly aligned; the wrong side reveals the elastic bobbin thread doing the heavy lifting.
Watch out: Direct contact can melt the elastic and ruin your work. Hover only.
Advanced Tips & Tricks
- Planning stretch: The tutorial and creator’s comment thread note there’s no single “magic” measurement for adding width. Fabrics can shrink about 40–50% through shirring, but your exact result depends on fabric weight and how many rows you sew. A test swatch is the best guide.
- Garment construction: It’s easier to shirr flat panels, then insert zippers or sew seams. The creator points to a separate tutorial demonstrating an invisible zipper added to a shirred section and mentions an upcoming method for inserting a zipper between two layers of shirring.
- Pivot like a pro: Sewing off the fabric, then pivoting to the next row, keeps corners crisp and rows aligned without extra thread tails.
- Maintainable habits: Trim threads only after you’ve locked the first and last rows with backstitches.
If your sewing space also doubles as an embroidery station, plan the sequence. Embroider first on a flat panel using the supports your machine prefers. Some users rely on magnetic hoops for embroidery machines or compact frames; others prefer traditional clamps. Keep the shirring step for last so the elastic gathers aren’t stressed by hooping.
From the studio: If you’re a Bernina fan, you might recognize the classic vibe in the video setup. For embroidery on compatible models, crafters sometimes seek out bernina magnetic hoops or a single versatile magnetic embroidery hoop to simplify hooping on flat panels. Keep in mind that hoop accessories vary by brand and model; always check compatibility.
From the comments
Questions from the community often reveal the real sticking points—and the creator weighs in with helpful, practical answers.
- Zippers and shirring: A reader asked how to attach a back zipper to a shirred section. The creator references a dedicated tutorial showing an invisible zipper installation on a shirred panel and notes another video is planned for a zipper sandwiched between two shirred layers. If you need a zipper, plan it during the pattern stage so you can keep the panel flat for precise placement.
- Panel order: For a shirred skirt top or bodice, shirr the panels first, then sew side seams. This both elevates the finish and helps prevent the elastic rows from unraveling.
- Tension: There isn’t a one-size-fits-all number. Start with your usual tension and tweak only if your test swatch suggests it.
- Right side vs. wrong side: Stitch on the right side of the fabric so the elastic bobbin thread ends up on the wrong side, where it can do its gathering work discreetly.
- Replacing old shirring: Remove the panel from the garment, re-shirr it flat following the same method, and then sew it back in. Trying to re-shirr in place is rarely successful because the fabric can’t move freely.
FAQ
What is shirring? Shirring is a technique that uses elastic in the bobbin and regular thread on top to create rows that gather the fabric into a stretchy, comfortable panel.
Can I use any sewing machine for shirring? Most domestic machines can do it. The keys are hand-winding the elastic bobbin, choosing a long straight stitch, and testing settings on a scrap first.
How do I choose the right elastic thread? Use narrow elastic thread for the bobbin and avoid winding it tightly. Gentle, hand-wound tension preserves the stretch.
How far apart should my lines be? In this tutorial, lines are spaced about 1 cm apart. More lines mean more elasticity. Test on your fabric to find the look and stretch you want.
What about machine embroidery on shirred garments? Do any embellishment first—on flat panels—before you shirr. Some embroiderers like tools such as mighty hoop or brand-specific options like bernina magnetic hoops for hooping flat fabric. After embroidery, return to the sewing machine to add shirring.
Pro tip: If you frequently embroider before sewing, you may already know products marketed as magnetic hoops for embroidery machines. Choose what’s compatible with your model, and keep the shirring step last so elastic rows aren’t compressed by hooping.
Wrap-up With precise marking, a gently hand-wound bobbin, a long straight stitch, and a careful steam-hover to finish, shirring becomes an accessible, reliable technique. Practice on a test swatch, let your fabric guide your final settings, and build from small panels to full garments. If you also decorate your pieces with embroidery, plan the order of operations carefully—embroider first, then shirr—and consider accessories like magnetic hoop or magnetic hoops for embroidery machines that suit your specific setup. Keep your sewing path smooth and your elastic relaxed, and your shirring will bounce back beautifully every time.
From the toolbox: Many machine embroiderers talk about supportive hardware like mighty hoop or brand-agnostic options such as magnetic hoops for embroidery machines when working on flat panels. Match any accessory to your exact machine model, test on scraps, and move to shirring only after embroidery is complete.