In-the-Hoop Felt Pumpkin Treat Bag: A Clean, Reversible Finish (Without Unhooping)

Project Overview: Material Requirements

This project is a masterclass in one of the most essential skills in machine embroidery: The Float Technique. You will create a reversible Halloween treat bag made from felt, entirely In-the-Hoop (ITH). This means the machine acts as your sewing needle, assembler, and finisher—all in one go.

The critical skill you will acquire here isn't just making a pumpkin; it is learning how to create a pocket by floating a second material layer on the back of the hoop without unhooping the front. This is the secret to perfect registration (alignment) that professional embroiderers use daily.

We will also focus on the "Clean Finish" principle. Most beginners leave the bobbin thread white, resulting in a messy, obviously "homemade" look on the inside. You will learn why winding a matching bobbin (same color and weight as the top thread) is non-negotiable for professional-grade reversible items.

What you’ll learn (and what usually goes wrong)

By the end of this guide, you will be able to:

• Master Digital Logistics: Import an ITH design from USB and verify orientation directly on the interface.
• Execute the "Clean Back" Protocol: Prep a matching bobbin to ensure the project is reversible.
• Control Tension: Hoop thick felt with firm tearaway without creating "hoop burn" or distortion.
• Perform the Float: Secure the backing layer using friction and tape rather than clamping, preventing alignment drift.
• Precision Trimming: Use rotary mechanics to cut smooth curves without severing the structural seam.

Common Beginner Pitfalls (The "Why did this happen?" list):

• The "Drift": The backing felt slides 2mm during re-attachment, causing the final seam to miss the edge.
• The "Needle Strike": Placing tape in the stitch path, gumming up the needle and causing thread shreds.
• The "Structural Fail": Cutting closer than 1/8 inch to the seam, causing the pocket to burst open when filled with candy.
• The "Warp": Over-tightening the felt in the hoop (creating a trampoline effect) which causes the final pumpkin to look oval instead of round once released.

Step 1: Setting Up the Machine and Design

The visual reference for this guide is the Baby Lock Destiny II, but the principles apply to any single-needle or multi-needle machine. The interface may look different, but the physics remain the same.

1) Import the design from USB

1. Port Safety: Insert the USB stick into the machine’s side port. Sensory Check: Ensure it seats fully; do not force it.
2. Navigation: On the touchscreen, select the USB icon.
3. Selection: Locate your specific pumpkin file.
4. Load: Press Set to transfer it to the active embroidery screen.

Checkpoint: Visually confirm the design orientation. Does the stem point up? If not, rotate it now. It is much easier to rotate on screen than to mentally rotate your hoop later.

2) Plan for a reversible-looking ITH finish

In standard embroidery, the back is hidden against the skin or inside a garment. In this ITH project, the back of the hoop becomes the inside of the treat pocket. If you use standard white bobbin thread, every stitch will scream "wrong side."

The Professional Standard: Wind a bobbin with the exact same thread you are using on top (e.g., Orange Rayon or Polyester 40wt).

Step 2: Hooping Felt and Outline Stitching

This phase is where 80% of ITH failures occur. If the foundation (hooping) is weak, the house (the final stitch) will collapse.

Prep: materials shown in the video

• Black Felt (Front): Acrylic craft felt is fine, but wool blend felt offers better longevity.
• Orange Felt (Back/Pocket): Contrast colors make the design pop.
• Stabilizer: Firm/Crisp Tearaway. Crucial Distinction: Do not use soft, fibrous tearaway; it is too weak to support the satin stitches of the face details. You need the "paper-like" crisp variety.
• Thread: 40wt Embroidery Thread (Orange/Red).
• Adhesion: Scotch Magic Tape (Matte finish—less likely to gum up needles than glossy tape).
• Needle: Size 75/11 Sharp or Embroidery. Ballpoint needles may struggle to pierce the stabilizer cleanly.
• Cutting Tools: 45mm or 28mm Rotary cutter + Curved embroidery scissors.

Why felt works well here

Felt is a non-woven textile. It has no grain line to distort, and crucially, it does not fray. This allows us to use a "raw edge" finish without needing a satin stitch to seal the edges. It is forgiving, hiding minor tension issues within its fuzzy texture.

Hooping: felt + firm tearaway

1. The Sandwich: Place the Firm Tearaway stitch-side up, and the Black Felt on top.
2. The Seat: Loosen your outer hoop screw significantly. Felt is thick. Place the inner hoop.
3. The Tension Check: Press the inner hoop down. Tighten the screw.
4. The Mount: Attach the hoop to the pantograph (embroidery arm).
5. The Start: Lower the presser foot and hit the "Start/Stop" button to stitch the placement line and face details.

Checkpoint: Run your fingers over the stitched outline. Is it bubbling? If so, your hoop wasn't tight enough. Is the felt pulled into an oval shape? It was too tight. The felt should be flat and neutral.

Expert note: hoop tension and distortion (why “drum tight” can backfire)

There is a myth that embroidery fabric must be "tight as a drum." For felt, this is dangerous. Felt has elasticity. If you stretch it tight like a drum skin, you are storing "potential energy" in the fabric. When you remove it from the hoop, that energy releases, the fabric shrinks back, and your perfect circle puckers into a raisin.

The "Goldilocks" Zone:

• Too Loose: The fabric pushes ahead of the needle (flagging).
• Too Tight: The fabric retracts later (puckering).
• Just Right: The fabric is taut but the grain is not distorted. You should be able to pinch the fabric in the center and pull it up slightly, but it should snap back immediately.

If you frequently fight hoop marks ("hoop burn") or inconsistent tension on thicker materials like felt, magnetic embroidery hoops are the industry solution. Unlike screw-tension hoops that rely on friction and brute force, magnetic hoops clamp straight down. This provides even pressure on all sides without forcing you to distort the fabric to get it into the ring. While not required for a single project, they are a game-changer for production reliability.

Step 3: The Float Technique: Adding the Back Pocket

This is the "Magic Trick." We need to attach the back of the pocket, but we cannot unhoop the front because we would lose our X/Y coordinates. We must Float.

Step-by-step: float the backing felt (without unhooping)

1. The Pause: The machine will stop before the final color block (usually a single run stitch or bean stitch). Do not touch the screen yet.
2. The Removal: Remove the hoop from the machine arm. Do not remove the fabric from the hoop.
3. The Flip: Turn the hoop over. You are now looking at the stabilizers side (the "ugly" side).
4. The Placement: Lay your Orange Felt over the design area. It must cover the outline completely with at least 1/2 inch of margin on all sides.
5. The Anchor: Secure the four corners with Scotch Magic Tape.

Expected outcome: The orange felt acts like a patch covering the hole on the back of the hoop. It should be taught enough not to sag, but not stretched.

Tape vs spray adhesive (what the video says)

The host suggests tape, and for felt, this is wise.

• Tape: Secure, leaves no residue on the felt (if placed outside the stitch line).
• Spray Adhesive (KK 2000): Great for large areas, but felt absorbs spray. You would need a heavy coat, which can gum up your needle and hook assembly. Stick to tape for this project.

Expert note: why floating works (and why it sometimes fails)

Floating is essentially "Friction-Based Stabilization." You are relying on the friction between the hoop bed and the machine arm to keep the fabric flat until the needle penetrates it.

Failure Mode: The "Under-Fold" When you slide the hoop back onto the machine, the bottom hanging felt can catch on the feed dogs or the edge of the throat plate, folding under itself. If you stitch over a folded backing, the project is ruined.

Solution: If you execute many floating steps, a magnetic hooping station or a simple flat table surface is vital. It creates a stable platform to tape your backing without juggling the hoop in mid-air. The stability ensures your tape is applied flat, reducing the risk of the "Under-Fold."

Warning: Safety Alert. When reattaching the hoop with a floating back, your fingers will be underneath the hoop to smooth the felt. Ensure the machine is stopped and your foot is away from the pedal (or start button) before your hands go near the needle zone.

Step 4: Finishing Touches and Trimming

The backing is taped. The hoop is heavy. It's time for the final structural seam.

Reattach the hoop and stitch the final color

1. The Slide: Slide the hoop carefully onto the embroidery arm. Tactile Check: Put your hand under the hoop as you slide it to ensure the orange felt enters the throat space smoothly and hasn't curled up.
2. The Speed: Lower your machine speed. If your machine runs at 1000 SPM (Stitches Per Minute), reduce it to 600 SPM. High speed can cause the floating backing to drag or flutter.
3. The Lock: Stitch the final color block. This stitch seals the front to the back.

Checkpoint: Look at the back. Is the line continuous? If the thread nested or broke, do not unhoop. Back up 10 stitches and re-stitch immediately.

Unhoop and remove tape

1. Release: Open the hoop mechanism.
2. Peel: Remove the tearaway stabilizer from the outside of the stitching. It should tear cleanly like a stamp.
3. Clean: Remove the tape.

Trim with a consistent seam allowance

This is where the artistry happens. A jagged cut looks cheap. A smooth cut looks professional.

1. Margin: Aim for a 1/4 inch (6mm) border. Less than 1/8" risks the seam popping; more than 3/8" looks bulky.
2. Tools:
   • Rotary Cutter: Use this for the long outer curves. Why? Continuous pressure creates a flawless edge without the "faceted" look of scissor snips.
   • Scissors: Use sharp embroidery scissors for tight indents (like the stem).
3. Technique: Move the fabric, not the scissors. Turn the pumpkin into the blades.

Expected outcome: A smooth pumpkin silhouette. The edge should feel firm, not floppy.

Expert note: why 1/4 inch is a smart target

This measurement allows for the natural thickness of two layers of felt + stabilizer. It provides enough physical material to "hold" the stitch lock. If you trim too close, the felt fibers (which are just pressed together, not woven) can separate, allowing the thread to pull right through the edge.

Tips for Working with Felt and Stabilizers

Felt behaves differently than woven cotton or stretchy knits. Use this logic gate for future projects.

Stabilizer choice: a quick decision tree

Decision Tree (Felt + ITH Projects):

1. Is the design mostly outline stitches (like this pumpkin)?
   • YES → Use Firm/Crisp Tearaway. It supports the needle but tears away cleanly for a soft edge.
   • NO (It has dense fillings/tatami stitches) → Use Cutaway. Tearaway will perforate and the design will fall out.
2. Is the felt thin/floppy (craft store acrylic)?
   • YES → Use two layers of tearaway or switch to Cutaway to prevent warping.
   • NO (It's stiff wool felt) → One layer of Tearaway is sufficient.
3. Is the design dense AND the felt stretchy?
   • YES → Adhere the felt to the stabilizer with Spray Adhesive or iron-on fusible backing to prevent shifting.

Matching bobbin thread: when it matters most

If you are just learning, white bobbin thread is fine. But for ITH items (keyfobs, tags, bags), the back is the product. If you are debating floating embroidery hoop techniques for commercial items, the matching bobbin is the #1 indicator of quality.

Tool upgrade path (when hooping becomes the bottleneck)

In a production environment (e.g., making 50 pumpkin bags for a class party), hooping is your bottleneck. It takes 2 minutes to hoop and 4 minutes to stitch.

The Solution Hierarchy:

1. Level 1 (Technique): Use pre-cut stabilizer sheets to save measuring time.
2. Level 2 (Consistency): If you struggle with hand strength or achieving consistent tension on thick felt stacks, baby lock magnetic embroidery hoops eliminate the screw-tightening variable. You simply float and snap.
3. Level 3 (Scale): If alignment is killing your speed, a hooping station for embroidery machine ensures every piece of felt lands in the exact same spot on the stabilizer, every single time.

Warning: Magnetic Hoop Safety. These are not fridge magnets. They use industrial neodymium magnets. They can pinch skin severely (blood blisters) and can interfere with pacemakers or insulin pumps. Keep them at least 12 inches away from medical devices and magnet-sensitive media (credit cards, hard drives).

Prep

Professional embroiderers don't stop mid-stitch to find scissors. Set your "Cockpit" before you fly.

Hidden consumables & prep checks (the stuff beginners forget)

1. Lint Roller: Black felt is a dust magnet. Clean it before you stitch.
2. Sharp Needle: Felt dulls needles faster than cotton. A fresh 75/11 ensures clean perforations without pushing the felt down into the bobbin case.
3. Contrast Light: Good lighting helps you see black thread on black felt when trimming.

Pro Tip: If you are engaging in high-volume production using babylock magnetic hoops, check your machine's clearance. Ensure the added height of the magnet doesn't hit the presser foot during travel.

Prep Checklist (Do not press "Start" until responsible)

• Design: File loaded, oriented correctly (stem up).
• Needle: Fresh 75/11 installed. One broken needle ruins the project.
• Bobbin: Wound with MATCHING color thread.
• Thread Path: Re-threaded top thread to ensure no tension disc snags.
• Hoop: Black felt + Firm Tearaway hooped taut (not stretched).
• Backing: Orange felt cut to size (Design Size + 1" margin).
• Adhesion: 4 strips of tape pre-cut and stuck to table edge.

Setup

This is the physical interface between you and the machine.

Machine setup checkpoints

• Bobbin Check: Open the cover. Is the tail cut short? Long tails can poke through to the top.
• Hoop Check: Slide the hoop on. Listen for the "Click" of the locking mechanism. Wiggle it. It should have zero play.
• Foot Height: If your machine allows (like the Destiny II), set the embroidery foot height to roughly 1.5mm - 2.0mm to clear the thickness of the felt.

Hooping setup: what “good” looks like

• The Drum Test: Tap the felt. It should sound dull, not like a high-pitched snare drum (too tight) and not flabby (too loose).
• The Flatness: Place the hoop on a flat table. The inner ring should not pop out.

If you find yourself dreading the physical act of hooping, consider magnetic embroidery hoops for babylock. They are largely designed to reduce operator fatigue and joint strain, making the "setup" phase of embroidery feel much less like a wrestling match.

Operation

The flight plan. Follow this sequence exactly.

Step-by-step with checkpoints and expected outcomes

1) The Face & Outline

• Action: Press Start. Watch the first 100 stitches.
• Sensory Check: Listen for rhythmic stitching. A loud "clunk" means the needle is hitting the needle plate or hoop—STOP immediately.
• Outcome: A crisp outline on the black felt. No looping threads.

2) The Pause & Pivot

• Action: Machine stops for the final color. Pull hoop off.
• Checkpoint: Do NOT pop the inner ring out.

3) The Float (The Critical Step)

• Action: Flip hoop. Tape Orange Felt over the back.
• Checkpoint: Hold the hoop vertical. Does the felt sag? If yes, re-tape tighter.
• Outcome: Backing is secure and flat.

4) The Final Seam

• Action: Re-mount hoop. Reduce speed to 600 SPM. Stitch final color.
• Checkpoint: Watch the front edge as the hoop moves back. Ensure the hanging felt doesn't catch the machine bed.
• Outcome: A sealed pocket.

5) The Release

• Action: Remove from machine. Un-hoop. Peel stabilizer.
• Outcome: A raw, messy-looking sandwich (this is normal).

Operation Checklist (End-of-Run Quality Gate)

• Seam Integrity: Pull gently on the pocket. Stitches should not gap.
• Registration: The back pocket felt covers the entire outline (no missed edges).
• Cleanliness: No tape trapped under the stitches.
• Texture: Felt remains smooth, not buckled or "waved."

Quality Checks

Before you gift this, inspect it like a pro.

Front-side checks

• Thread Trims: Use curved scissors to snip jump stitches flush with the felt.
• Face Definition: Ensure the eyes/mouth are distinct and not buried in the felt proper.

Back-side / pocket checks

• The Bobbin Line: Because you matched the thread, the back stitch line should blend in. If you see white dots (from the bobbin), your top tension was too loose or your bobbin wasn't seated correctly.

Edge and trimming checks

• The Smooth Curve: Run your finger along the cut edge. If you feel a "point" or a "jag," sand it lightly with an emery board or trim carefully with scissors.

Workflow Tip: If you are scaling up, a hoop master embroidery hooping station allows you to prep 5 hoops in the time it takes to prep 1 manually, ensuring identical placement for every single pumpkin.

Troubleshooting

When things go wrong, use this diagnostic table.

Results

You now have a finished felt pumpkin treat bag. You have successfully navigated the challenges of ITH construction: accurate placement, floating layers, and tension management.

Deliverable standard (what “ready to gift” looks like)

• Structural: The pocket holds weight without straining seams.
• Aesthetic: The trim is uniform (1/4") and the bobbin thread is invisible against the felt.
• Clean: No stabilizer fuzz, no tape gum, no loose threads.

If you find that your hands ache after making three of these, or if you had to discard two due to "hoop slippage," recall the criteria for upgrading:

• Pain/Fatigue? Look at magnetic hoops.
• Alignment/Speed Issues? Look at a hooping station for embroidery machine.

Mastery of the "Float" technique opens the door to thousands of projects—from zipper pouches to keyfobs—all using your machine as the ultimate assembly tool.