Crafting Delicate Machine‑Embroidered Butterflies on Soluble Paper

Video reference: “Machine Embroidered Butterflies on Soluble Paper” by Stitch And Create

Delicate, floaty, and made almost entirely from scraps—these machine-embroidered butterflies deliver maximum poetry with minimal materials. They’re airy enough to sway on nylon cords and sturdy enough to keep their shape because of one secret ingredient: soluble paper.

What you’ll learn

• How to layer lace or other sheer fabrics with soluble paper for free-motion embroidery

• The exact machine setup Emma uses (feed dogs, foot, stitch length, tension)

• Why outlines and swirls matter for structure once the paper dissolves

• Safe handling of soluble paper (and how to prevent marks from carrying through)

• Simple finishing ideas using fusible web for the body strip

Unveiling the Beauty of Machine Embroidered Butterflies A Symbol of Hope and Transformation Butterflies are a natural fit for this technique: summery, translucent, and symbolic of hope and transformation. Emma demonstrates a mix of lace and sheer fabrics stitched on soluble paper to create an ethereal look that reads as textile art rather than a literal specimen. She even shows another piece from her studio—a felt poppy vase—to highlight how different surface techniques can shift the mood of a display.

Why this method works: soluble paper provides crisp structure while you stitch, then vanishes in water to reveal only the fabric and thread. A trace of residue may cling to stitches, softening the texture in an appealing, slightly worn way.

Pro tip: If you typically stabilize with hoops, remember this is pure free-motion play. You’ll guide the fabric by hand and build strength with layered stitches, not by tensioned hooping. If your normal setup includes embroidery magnetic hoops, set them aside for this project.

What You’ll Need: Materials and Tools Materials

• Soluble paper (Emma prefers it over soluble fabric so she can trap bits for disposal)

• Lace or other sheer fabrics (Emma shows pink floral lace, yellow lace, organza in pink and orange, and a lacy purple)

• Embroidery thread (Emma stitches in orange)

• Paper butterfly template (pinned rather than traced)

• Optional hanging: nylon cords or fishing wire for display

• For the body: a strip of orange fabric with bondaweb (fusible web) on the back

Tools

• Sewing machine set up for free-motion

• Darning/embroidery foot

• Pins and pincushion

• Scissors

• Pencil (for the body shape on the fusible-backed strip)

• Iron (to fuse the body; referenced when discussing bondaweb)

Quick check

• Do you have enough lace to cover your template?

• Do you have pins to secure layers? (You won’t be drawing on the soluble paper.)

• Is your soluble paper kept dry and stored?

Why Soluble Paper Over Fabric? Emma favors soluble paper for environmental reasons—she can trap the dissolved fragments more easily. It feels like soft photo paper and, once wet, much of it disappears while some residue can cling around stitched areas. That residue can actually be an aesthetic asset, knocking back overly busy lace and helping the butterfly read as a unified design.

Watch out: Pencil marks drawn on soluble paper may show after dissolving. Instead, pin your paper template on top and stitch around it.

Getting Started: Preparing Your Workspace and Materials Cutting Your Butterfly Template Use a simple paper butterfly template. Emma’s is well loved and full of pinholes—proof that you don’t need to redraw each time. Place it on top of your layered stack (fabric over soluble paper) and pin thoroughly.

Pro tip: Commenters suggested heat-erasable pens and color-matched soluble pencils. The creator acknowledged both ideas. If you try a heat-erasable pen, test first on scraps; if you experiment with a colored, water-soluble pencil, choose a hue that blends with your lace in case a tint remains.

Selecting and Layering Fabrics Emma’s palette includes pink floral lace for the demo, plus samples in yellow lace, organza (pink and orange), and a slightly lacy purple fabric. The goal is a translucent finish that lets light play through. Lay your chosen fabric on top of the soluble paper, then pin the paper template on the very top.

Quick check: Make sure your fabric piece extends past the template edge in all directions. You’ll be stitching right on that paper edge, so coverage matters.

From the comments: Sourcing special fabrics

• Recycled shopping wins: A commenter noted plans for recycled shopping; the creator recommended thrift/charity shops for interesting finds.

- Structure preview: Emma shows a completed yellow butterfly and explains how water washes out the soluble paper, leaving lace and stitches—an excellent mindset check before you sew.

Storing Soluble Paper Safely Soluble paper loves to soften if exposed to humidity. Emma’s “hot tip”: keep it sealed in a plastic bag so it stays dry until you’re ready.

Watch out: Wet hands can start the dissolution process. Dry your hands before handling the paper and before pinning.

Mastering Free-Motion Embroidery on Soluble Paper Machine Settings for Success Before stitching, set up for free-motion embroidery:

• Lower the feed dog teeth

• Attach a darning/embroidery foot

• Set stitch length to zero

• Slightly lower the top tension

Lower the presser foot and test a few stitches at the very edge on scrap, if you can, to feel the glide.

Quick check (Setup)

• Feed dogs down? Darning foot on?

• Stitch length at 0? Tension slightly reduced?

• Presser foot lowered?

Pro tip: If your usual machine workflow involves frames—like magnetic hoops for embroidery or standard rings—free-motion on soluble paper is a different dance. You’re not constrained by hoop borders; your hands and stitch density provide control.

Stitching the Butterfly Outline With the paper template pinned on top, start at the outer edge and sew along the template outline. Aim for a smooth, unhurried pass. Remove each pin before the needle reaches it, and keep your hands guiding the fabric evenly.

Expect a little wobble here and there. Emma embraces slightly “wonky” lines as part of the charm and proof of the handmade process. After completing the outline, clip thread tails close for a clean edge. Flip the work; the stitched contour should be visible on the back of the soluble paper.

Watch out: Don’t rush. Running too slow while moving the fabric unevenly can create little jagged bites along curves. It’s better to nudge your machine speed a bit faster while keeping your hand movement calm and controlled.

Quick check (Outline)

• Did you remove all pins?

• Is the outline closed with no gaps?

• Are thread tails trimmed?

Adding Decorative Swirls and Body Details Turn the piece over so you can see the thread lines clearly against the back of the soluble paper. Emma freehand-stitches a simple body and then fills the wings with swirls and curving paths. This is where the design gains strength: the added internal stitching helps the structure hold together after washing.

Pro tip: Emma varies machine speed to improve smoothness. A slightly higher needle speed with slower fabric movement often yields cleaner curves.

“Good enough” symmetry Aim for rough symmetry between wings, not clones. Emma mirrors her swirls loosely—balanced but not identical—and the overall effect feels lively and intentional. When both wings are filled, clip any jump threads.

Quick check (Interior)

• Are there enough swirls to connect islands of lace?

• Do both wings feel balanced at a glance?

• Are any long thread jumps trimmed?

Note on needles: Emma does not switch to a special needle for soluble paper in this project; she stitches successfully with her usual setup.

The Magic of Dissolving: Revealing Your Delicate Art Washing Away the Soluble Paper The reveal is as satisfying as the stitch work itself. Gently run water over the piece. Much of the soluble paper dissolves away—especially in open areas—while some residue can remain close to dense stitching and within lace voids. That trace can soften busy prints and harmonize the palette. Emma shows a yellow sample with that ephemeral “worn” aesthetic.

Quick check

• Is the outline continuous and firm when damp?

• Do the wings hold together when you lift the piece? (They should if you added adequate interior stitching.)

Tips for Maintaining Structure

• Dense lines near edges improve stability, especially around any narrow wing tips.

• The more internal swirls you add, the more continuous thread pathways support the fabric once the paper is gone.

• Let the piece dry flat to preserve shape.

Pro tip: If you typically float fabric in a hoop, remember this butterfly is designed to be freestanding after washing. Hoop aids like magnetic hoop embroidery are not needed here; structural integrity comes from your outline and fill swirls.

Adding the Body with Fusible Web For a clean finish, Emma introduces a strip of orange fabric prepared with bondaweb (fusible web) on the back. Draw the body shape on the paper side, cut, peel, position over the stitched center, and fuse with an iron to adhere. The demo pauses just as she reaches for a pencil, but the sequence is clear: draw, cut, position, fuse.

Quick check (Body)

• Is the fusible fully adhered to the body fabric before cutting?

• Does the body sit centered over your stitched midline?

Creative Applications for Your Embroidered Butterflies

• Hanging displays: Emma mentions using nylon cords so butterflies can float in a breeze—perfect for windows, studio corners, or seasonal decor.

• Scrap-friendly art: Lace offcuts, organza strips, and other sheer remnants all shine here. You can treat these as mini studies in color and translucency.

- Companion pieces: Emma’s felt poppy vase reminds us that small freestanding textiles pair beautifully with other fiber artworks.

Pro tip: If you usually standardize your hooping with a station—say, a hooping station for embroidery—this project is a freeing counterpoint. Prepare a few pinned stacks at once to batch your creative momentum.

Quality Checks: How to Know You Nailed It

• Outline integrity: The edge seam is continuous, with no gaps large enough to unravel after dissolving.

• Internal support: Swirls crisscross and link lace motifs so every area is tethered to the whole.

• Dissolve test: After rinsing, the wings remain intact and read as one unit; any residue looks intentional, not patchy.

• Finish: Body adheres smoothly with no lifting corners.

Results & Handoff Outputs you can expect

• A delicate, translucent butterfly with a slightly stiff hand that eases as residue dries.

• Clean outline and expressive internal stitching that holds structure without a stabilizer.

• A display-ready piece you can hang with nylon cord or fishing wire—no extra backing required.

Storage and sharing

• Keep future sheets of soluble paper in a plastic bag to guard against humidity.

• Save small lace offcuts; they make great test tiles for color and stitch density.

Troubleshooting & Recovery Symptom → Likely cause → Fix

• Edges fray or separate after washing → Outline too sparse or gaps in seam → Add a second outline pass before dissolving; reinforce tight curves.

• Wings feel floppy → Not enough internal swirls → Stitch additional curvy lines across open sections to create continuous paths.

• Jagged curves → Moving fabric too unevenly at a low needle speed → Increase machine speed slightly and keep hand movement steady.

• Pencil marks visible after rinse → Marked the soluble paper directly → Next time, pin the paper template on top instead of drawing. If marking is essential, test heat-erasable ink on scraps first.

• Paper dissolves too soon while handling → Moisture exposure before stitching → Dry hands; store paper in a sealed bag; handle on a dry surface.

Quick tests to isolate issues

• Stitch density test: On a small scrap stack (fabric + paper), stitch a spiral, rinse, and note how much residue remains and how sturdy it feels.

• Curve smoothness test: Sew three circles at different machine speeds; pick the speed that gives the roundest edges.

From the comments Q: Can I use a soluble colored pencil to mark the outline so any transfer blends with the fabric? A: The creator thought it’s worth trying; it may bleed slightly, but matching color could disguise it. Always test first.

Q: Are heat-erasable pens helpful? A: Yes. The creator appreciated the tip—being able to see your stitching path helps. Test on scraps before committing.

Q: Where do you find special fabrics? A: Thrift or charity shops often yield interesting lace and sheers.

Q: I love the wonky lines—do they work with soluble paper? A: Absolutely. The creator notes soluble paper can produce a worn, papery look that suits freehand lines beautifully.

Wrap-up Machine-embroidered butterflies are a joyful blend of process and reveal: pin, stitch, rinse, and admire. Keep your setup simple, embrace a little asymmetry, and let soluble paper do the disappearing act.

Checklists at a glance Prep

• Soluble paper dry and bagged

• Lace/sheers cut larger than the template

• Paper template ready; pins and scissors on hand

• Optional body fabric prepped with bondaweb

Setup

• Feed dogs lowered, darning foot attached

• Stitch length at 0; top tension slightly lowered

• Presser foot down; test a few stitches

Operation

• Outline stitched smoothly, pins removed

• Interior swirls added for structure

• Paper rinsed gently; piece dried flat

• Body fused in place

Side note for gear-minded stitchers: If you’re used to large frames or embroidery machine hoops, this is a satisfying departure. Free-motion on soluble paper relies on hand guidance and stitch pathways—not on framed tension. If your studio is full of gadgets like magnetic hoops or a magnetic embroidery hoop, you won’t need them here; save them for your next framed project. And if you experiment later with framed swatches, a light-touch setup (even something like magnetic hoops for embroidery machines) can help manage more fragile sheers during practice, but the butterfly workflow itself is wonderfully frame-free.