Tajima Writer PLUS - Embroidery Design & Digitizing Software

What is Tajima Writer Plus?

Tajima Writer Plus is an embroidery design & digitizing software that comes standard with the Tajima SAI compact embroidery machine. In the video, Tajima positions it as beginner-friendly while still usable for experienced digitizers—because it offers three different ways to create embroidery data depending on what you start with: a paper sketch, a touchscreen drawing, or a mouse-driven manual workflow.

If you watched the video and thought “Looks easy, but I’m not sure what to do first,” you’re not alone. One viewer even asked for spoken explanation (“Please speak, explain”). So this article does what the video can’t: it turns the on-screen steps into a practical, do-this-next checklist, adds the missing prep details (the stuff that causes most failures), and gives you decision rules so you don’t waste time digitizing something that won’t stitch cleanly.

The "Experience-First" Perspective: As someone who has spent two decades on the shop floor, I can tell you that software is only 20% of the battle. The rest is physics: needle penetration, thread tension, and stabilization. This guide bridges that gap.

You’ll learn:

• The three creation methods shown in the video (Auto Digitizer, Touch Pen/SketchBook, Mouse/Punch Tools)
• The exact workflow order (what to decide before you click “generate”)
• The quality checkpoints that prevent distorted outlines, ugly fills, and cap failures
• A simple way to think about hobby mode (1 piece) vs production mode (repeatable orders)

Who this is for (so you pick the right method)

The video targets beginners and small business owners making custom embroidery on items like totes, shirts, and caps. That means your real goal usually isn’t “make any stitches”—it’s:

• Make stitches that look intentional (clean edges, consistent texture)
• Make files that run reliably (fewer thread breaks, fewer restarts)
• Make a workflow you can repeat for orders (logos, team caps, small-batch merch)

That’s why the “best” method is the one that matches your input and your tolerance for editing.

Quick decision: which creation method should you use?

Use this decision tree before you start. Do not guess; follow the logic of the source material.

Decision Tree (Input → Best Method → Why)

1) Do you already have a paper sketch you like?

• Yes → Method 1: Auto Digitizer from scan → fastest path from sketch to stitches. Best for simple, high-contrast logos.
• No → go to 2

2) Do you want a hand-drawn, artistic look and you have a touchscreen + stylus?

• Yes → Method 2: Touch Pen / SketchBook → draw naturally; converts immediately. Best for "signature" styles or organic art.
• No → go to 3

3) Do you need clean, controlled shapes (letters, logos, fills) and you can work with a mouse?

• Yes → Method 3: Mouse / Punch Tools → most control over outlines, fills, and direction. Best for commercial orders and caps.

If you’re planning to sell caps or repeat a logo across many items, you’ll usually end up in Method 3 sooner than you think—because repeatability and stitch-direction control matter more than speed.

Method 1: Auto-Digitizing from Sketches

Auto-digitizing is the “fastest to stitches” workflow shown in the video: you draw on paper with a dark marker, scan it, run the Auto Digitizer Wizard in Writer Plus, decide the number of colors, map threads, review the automatic segmentation (Run / Steil / Satin), then generate data and stitch it on the SAI.

This is where beginners win time—and also where beginners lose quality if the input art isn’t prepared correctly.

Step-by-step: from paper sketch to stitch file

Step 1 — Draw for the scanner (not for Instagram)

In the video, the sketch is drawn on paper using a dark marker.

Checkpoint: High contrast is critical. The video explicitly notes that high contrast improves auto-conversion. Use a crisp Sharpie or ink pen. Avoid pencil, as the graphite shine and fuzzy edges confuse the software.

Expected outcome: Your lines scan as solid, deep black shapes, not distinct fuzzy gray edges.

Warning: Scissors/needle risk is real even during “software work.” Keep a dedicated sharp pair of embroidery scissors for thread only, and store needles in a closed case. A dropped needle can end up in fabric, on the floor, or in a hooping area—treat it like a shop hazard.

Step 2 — Scan the drawing

Scan the hand-drawn picture into your computer (as shown).

Checkpoint: If your scan looks washed out, fix that now (re-scan darker or adjust contrast in basic photo software) rather than “hoping the wizard will figure it out.” Auto tools can’t invent contrast; they only read pixels.

Expected outcome: A clean image file (JPG or BMP) ready to import.

Step 3 — Open Writer Plus and start the Auto Digitizer Wizard

In the video workflow, you start the picture in Writer Plus, decide the number of colors, and generate embroidery data.

Checkpoint: Decide the number of colors based on what you actually want to stitch, not what the scan contains. A sketch can have accidental shading; your thread plan should be intentional. If you want a 3-color logo, force the software to see only 3 colors.

Expected outcome: A preview that separates your design into distinct color regions without "speckles."

Step 4 — Match threads using the palette

The video shows a color matching step using a thread palette (Thread Palette: RGB) in the wizard.

Checkpoint: If the palette mapping looks “close but wrong,” don’t ignore it. Color mapping is one of the easiest places to catch problems before you stitch. Assigning the specific thread brand (e.g., Madeira, embroidery thread) here saves confusion at the machine.

Expected outcome: Each region is assigned a specific thread color code.

Step 5 — Review the automatic segmentation (Run / Steil / Satin)

The video shows the Auto Digitizer settings window with segment controls. This is the safety logic of the software.

The settings shown include:

• Max width for run: 0.5 mm
• Max width for steil: 1.5 mm
• Max width for satin column: 7 mm

Expert Insight: Why these numbers?

• 0.5 mm Run: Anything thinner than this is practically invisible as a column.
• 7 mm Satin: This is your safety limit. A satin stitch wider than 7mm is prone to snagging on zippers or jewelry (called "picking"). The software will automatically convert wider areas to Tatami fills to prevent this.

Checkpoint: The video warns that weak lines may not pick up as satin columns.

Expected outcome: Thin lines become run stitches; wider columns become satin; largely filled areas become Tatami fills.

Why auto-digitizing sometimes “looks bad” (and how to avoid the trap)

Generally, auto-digitizers are making best guesses from pixels. That means your results depend heavily on:

• Line thickness consistency (a marker line that fades mid-stroke may digitize as broken stitches)
• Closed shapes (open gaps can confuse region detection, causing fills to spill out)
• Simplified art (too much detail becomes tiny stitch fragments which cause thread nests)

If you want to sell the result, treat auto-digitizing as a draft generator: it gets you 70–90% of the way, then you refine. If you only need a one-off personal tote, you can accept more “handmade character.”

Step 6 — Generate data and stitch on the SAI

The video shows the SAI stitching the auto-digitized design on fabric.

Checkpoint: Do a quick “sanity scan” before you stitch: are there any ultra-thin details that will disappear? Any huge satin columns that might snag? (If yes, simplify.)

Expected outcome: A stitched design like the “Coffee Take Away” example shown.

Method 2: Freehand Drawing with Touch Pen

This method uses SketchBook integration: you draw directly on the touchscreen with a stylus, and the software converts it to embroidery data immediately after drawing. The video also shows you can change the embroidery expression by selecting a line pattern.

This is the fastest way to create “handwritten” or sketch-style embroidery—great for personal gifts, kids’ projects, or quick custom text.

Step-by-step: draw → convert → style → stitch

Step 1 — Draw directly on the canvas with a stylus

In the video, you draw pictures directly on the touchscreen of the computer.

Checkpoint: Keep strokes deliberate. Generally, shaky micro-movements become stitch jitter. Imagine you are drawing with a thick marker, not a fine pencil.

Expected outcome: Your drawing appears as strokes ready for conversion.

Step 2 — Let Writer Plus convert strokes to stitches

The video states that immediately after drawing, it is converted to embroidery data.

Checkpoint: Watch for overly dense overlaps where you retrace lines. Generally, retracing can stack stitches and create stiffness or thread stress ("bulletproof embroidery").

Expected outcome: A stitch preview that follows your strokes.

Step 3 — Change the “expression” by selecting line patterns

The video shows changing line properties and selecting different line patterns.

Checkpoint: Pick a line style that matches the fabric and the purpose. Generally, decorative line styles can look amazing on stable woven fabric but may distort on stretchy or unstable items. Complex motif lines need heavy stabilizer.

Expected outcome: The same drawing looks different (e.g., squiggly vs straight) without redrawing.

Step 4 — Send to the machine and stitch

The video shows the SAI stitching the freehand anniversary text.

Checkpoint: If you’re stitching on a tote or shirt, stabilize appropriately. The video doesn’t specify stabilizer, but in practice, insufficient stabilization is the #1 reason freehand text looks wobbly.

Expected outcome: A stitched “Happy Anniversary” style result like the demo.

Pro tip from shop reality: freehand is fast—finishing is what makes it look professional

Generally, the difference between “cute” and “sellable” is finishing:

• Trim jump threads cleanly (use curved snips to avoid cutting the knot).
• Remove stabilizer neatly (don’t tear and distort the stitches—cut close if using Cutaway).
• Press/shape the item so the design sits flat.

If you’re producing gifts or small-batch items, build finishing time into your workflow so you don’t underprice your labor.

Method 3: Precision Manual Digitizing

This is the mouse-driven Punch Tools workflow shown in the video: you create an outline, select the type of embroidery pattern, decide direction, and stitch on a cap after installing the cap driver.

This method is slower at first, but it’s the most repeatable and the most controllable—especially for logos, lettering, and cap work.

Step-by-step: outline → fill type → direction → cap stitch

Step 1 — Create outlines with Punch Tools

The video shows using a mouse to create vector outlines for letters or shapes.

Checkpoint: Keep outlines smooth. Generally, too many points create bumpy stitch edges (the "sawtooth effect"). Use the minimum number of nodes to define a curve.

Expected outcome: Clean shapes ready for stitch assignment.

Step 2 — Choose embroidery pattern types for regions

The video shows selecting fill types (example shown: tatami).

Checkpoint: Match fill type to shape size.

• Satin: Great for text and borders (narrower than 7mm). Gives a shiny, raised look.
• Tatami (Fill): Essential for large areas. It cuts the long threads into smaller steps, creating a flat, mat-like texture.

Expected outcome: Each region has an assigned stitch style.

Step 3 — Set stitch direction (angles)

The video explicitly shows deciding direction and setting stitch direction angles.

Checkpoint (video-based): Verify fill direction aligns with fabric grain or design needs.

• Sensory Tip: Stitch direction changes how light hits the thread. If you have two adjacent Tatami segments of the same color, change the angle by 45 or 90 degrees to make them visually distinct.

Expected outcome: Texture and light reflection change based on direction, and the design looks intentional.

Why stitch direction is a “profit lever” (not just an art choice)

Generally, direction control reduces problems that cost money:

• Fewer distortions (less push/pull fighting the fabric).
• Cleaner edges (less need to re-run samples).
• More consistent results across different items.

If you’re a small shop, consistency is what turns a one-off success into a repeatable product.

Step 4 — Install the cap driver and stitch on a cap

The video shows installing the cap driver and stitching the design on a baseball cap.

Checkpoint: Caps amplify every setup mistake. If your design is too close to seams or the cap isn’t mounted consistently, you’ll see misalignment immediately.

• The "Flagging" Risk: If the cap isn't tight on the frame, the fabric bounces up and down (flagging), causing birdnesting or needle breaks.

Expected outcome: A finished cap like the “Juicy fruit” example shown.

Watch out: cap workflow is where hooping efficiency becomes your bottleneck

Even though the video focuses on software, cap production is often limited by mounting/hooping speed and repeatability.

• If you’re doing occasional caps, your standard cap setup may be fine.
• If you’re doing batches, consider a workflow upgrade path:
  • Scene trigger: You’re spending more time mounting than stitching, or your wrists hurt from wrestling stiff caps.
  • Judgment standard: If mounting time per cap is approaching (or exceeding) stitch time, you have an efficiency problem.
  • Options: A dedicated hooping station (commonly discussed in the industry as a hoop master embroidery hooping station) can improve consistency; for multi-needle production environments, magnetic frame systems may reduce handling time on flat goods.

Versatile Applications

The video demonstrates real stitching results on multiple items: tote bags, fabric (white woven), and a cap. It also shows that the interface is intuitive enough for kids to use for simple designs.

Application 1: Totes and flat goods (fast personalization)

Totes are forgiving and great for learning because they’re typically stable woven fabric. That makes them ideal for:

• Auto-digitized sketch art.
• Freehand “handwriting” designs.
• Simple fills and lettering.

If you’re running a small business, totes are also a strong entry product because sampling is cheaper than caps.

Application 2: Caps (high value, high sensitivity)

Caps are where customers pay more—and where your process must be tighter.

If you’re searching for cap-specific setup terms, you’ll see people talk about a cap hoop for embroidery machine and different mounting systems. In Tajima’s ecosystem, the video shows using a cap driver for stitching.

Practical note: Cap success is a combination of (1) digitizing choices like direction and density (usually run simpler designs on caps), and (2) consistent mounting. If either is off, the result looks “cheap” even if the artwork is good.

Application 3: Kids, hobbyists, and quick prototypes

The video’s “kid using the stylus” moment is more than cute—it highlights a real workflow advantage: rapid prototyping.

• Use Method 2 to sketch ideas quickly.
• If the idea sells, rebuild it in Method 3 for repeatable production quality.

That’s a realistic path from hobby to business.

Why Choose Tajima SAI?

The video emphasizes that a version of Tajima Writer Plus comes standard with the Tajima SAI, and that even beginners can quickly get familiar with the operation and create one-of-a-kind personal embroidery designs.

From a shop-owner perspective, the “why” usually comes down to synergy:

• Software workflow (Writer Plus) → faster design creation.
• Machine execution (SAI) → immediate stitch validation on real products.

Prep: hidden consumables & prep checks (the stuff the video doesn’t say out loud)

Even though the video focuses on software screens and stitching demos, your real-world success depends on prep. These are the common “silent failure points” that cause thread breaks, messy backs, or distorted results—especially when you jump from a tote to a cap.

Work through this before you stitch any new file:

• Needle condition: A 75/11 needle is standard, but if it hits a hard cap seam, it can burr. Tactile check: Run your fingernail down the needle tip; if it catches, replace it immediately.
• Thread path cleanliness: Lint buildup increases friction. Blow it out regularly.
• Bobbin consistency: Uneven winding can create tension swings.
• Tools: Cutting tools ready (clean trims prevent pull-outs).
• Test fabric: Always test on scrap fabric first (don't test on a customer item).

Also, if you’re doing a lot of hooping/mounting, your hands and wrists become a limiting factor. Generally, repetitive hooping is a fatigue trap in small shops.

If you’re currently using a standard tajima hoop and you notice hoop burn or slow mounting, that’s a signal to evaluate alternatives.

Warning: If you use magnetic hoops/frames in your workflow, treat magnets as a safety item. Keep them away from pacemakers/implanted medical devices, keep fingers clear of pinch points (they snap shut with immense force), and store magnets so they can’t snap together unexpectedly.

Tool upgrade path (natural, not salesy)

• Scene trigger: You’re hooping slowly, leaving marks (hoop burn) on sensitive fabrics like velvet or performance wear, or struggling to keep fabric evenly tensioned.
• Judgment standard: If you can't mount consistently, your digitizing improvements won't show up in the stitch. The fabric must be "drum-tight."
• Options: Many shops move from standard hoops to magnetic hoops/frames for faster mounting and reduced hoop marks. For production scaling, multi-needle machines (like our SEWTECH multi-needle embroidery machines) are often considered when you’re running frequent color changes and want higher throughput.

To keep terminology straight, people may search for tajima embroidery hoops or tajima embroidery frame when comparing mounting options.

Prep Checklist (end of Prep)

• Tajima Writer Plus installed and opens correctly.
• Input ready: scanned sketch (Method 1) OR touchscreen + stylus (Method 2) OR mouse (Method 3).
• Machine ready: threaded, bobbin inserted, area cleaned of lint.
• Bobbin Drop Test: Pull the bobbin thread; it should feed smoothly with slight resistance, not free-fall.
• Correct needle installed for the fabric you plan to stitch (confirm with your machine manual).
• Stabilizer/backing selected and test fabric prepared (especially for text).
• Scissors/snips, tweezers, and cleaning brush within reach.

Setup: make your workflow repeatable (hobby vs production)

The video shows stitching on totes and caps, which implies two very different setups.

• Hobby mode (1 piece): You can tolerate extra time adjusting, re-hooping, and experimenting.
• Production mode (10–100 pieces): You need consistent mounting, consistent file behavior, and predictable finishing time.

If you’re aiming for production mode, standardize:

• One “default” thread set for sampling.
• One stabilizer choice per product category (e.g., Cutaway for knits, Tearaway for wovens).
• A naming system for files (method + date + size).

If you’re working with Tajima cap systems, you’ll also see searches like tajima cap frame and tajima hat hoops—the key is to pick one mounting approach and master it before you add variations.

Setup Checklist (end of Setup)

• Choose the creation method (Auto / Touch Pen / Punch Tools) based on the decision tree.
• Confirm design size and target product (tote vs cap) before digitizing details.
• For Auto Digitizer: confirm high-contrast scan and planned color count.
• For Touch Pen: confirm line style choice matches the look you want.
• For Punch Tools: confirm fill type and stitch direction decisions are intentional.
• If stitching a cap: cap driver installed and cap mounted consistently (check for "flagging" bubbles).

Operation: stitch, check, and adjust (without guessing)

The video shows successful stitching results, but in real use you should build a quick inspection loop. Your eyes and ears are your best diagnostic tools.

Checkpoints during stitching

• First 30 seconds (Auditory Check): Listen for the sound. A rhythmic "hum-thump-hum" is good. A harsh "clack-clack" or "slapping" sound usually means loose hooping or a dry machine.
• During fills (Visual Check): Is the fabric tunneling or puckering? Generally, that points to stabilization issues or the density is too high (too many stitches in one spot).
• Thread behavior: If you hear frequent snapping or see fraying, slow down and re-check thread path and needle.

Expected outcomes by method

• Method 1 (Auto Digitizer): Recognizable sketch converted cleanly; thin lines appear as runs; wider areas become satin/fill as segmented.
• Method 2 (Touch Pen): Strokes look like intentional handwriting; line style changes are visible.
• Method 3 (Punch Tools): Clean edges, consistent fills, and visible texture from direction choices.

Operation Checklist (end of Operation)

• Run a test stitch on similar fabric before stitching a final product.
• Confirm color order and thread mapping before starting.
• Watch the first outline/placement stitches and stop if alignment is off.
• Trim jump threads as you go if needed (especially on text) to prevent the foot from catching them.
• After stitching, inspect front and back before removing stabilizer (white bobbin thread should be visible as a ~1/3 strip in the center of the satin column on the back).
• Record what worked (method, settings used, fabric, stabilizer) for repeat orders.

Troubleshooting (symptom → likely cause → fix)

Because the video is short and mostly on-screen text, it doesn’t list troubleshooting. Here are the most common issues tied directly to the three workflows shown. Follow this order: Physical fix first, Software fix second.

1) Symptom: Auto-digitized lines look broken or missing

• Likely cause: The original drawing had weak/faint lines (the video notes weak lines may not pick up as satin columns).

2) Symptom: Freehand text looks shaky or uneven

• Likely cause: Hand jitter in the original stroke; or fabric movement during stitching.

3) Symptom: Filled areas look “flat” or messy on caps

• Likely cause: Stitch direction not planned for the cap’s curvature; mounting inconsistency.

4) Symptom: Thread breaks increase when switching from tote to cap

• Likely cause: Higher friction and tighter curves in cap stitching; needle/thread mismatch; lint buildup.

Results: what you can deliver after this workflow

After following the video’s three methods with the prep and checkpoints above, you should be able to:

• Convert a scanned sketch into a stitch file using the Auto Digitizer Wizard.
• Draw directly on a touchscreen with a stylus and convert strokes immediately.
• Manually digitize shapes with Punch Tools, choose fill types like tatami, and set stitch direction intentionally.
• Stitch results on flat goods and caps using the SAI (including cap driver use as shown).

If your goal is to sell embroidery, your next step is to standardize one product (for example: a tote design series or a cap logo style), document your successful settings, and then invest in workflow upgrades only when your time data proves the bottleneck.

For readers comparing mounting options, you may also encounter terms like tajima frames and hooping for embroidery machine—use them as research anchors, but keep your own process simple: one method, one product, one repeatable setup, then scale.