ITH Teddy Bear on a HOLIAUMA Multi-Needle Machine: Faux Fur Torso & Legs, DAHAO Error 13 Fix, and the “Pliers Click” Joint Hack

Mastering Faux Fur ITH: A Production Guide to Teddy Bear Assembly

If you are currently staring at an In-The-Hoop (ITH) project covered in fuzz, with a machine that sounds like it’s chewing through a carpet, relax. You are at the most critical stage of plush toy production. Working with long-pile faux fur is a physical skill that sits somewhere between sewing and sculpting.

Most beginners fail here because they treat fur like cotton. They trust the hoop tension too much, run the machine too fast, or trim too aggressively.

This guide reconstructs the workflow for the "Part 3" assembly of an ITH teddy bear—focusing on the head cleanup, torso stitching, leg construction, and the specific quirks of DAHAO-panel multi-needle machines (like the Holiauma). We will move beyond basic instructions into production-grade habits that prevent ruined materials and wasted hours.

1. The Psychology of "The Shed": Managing Faux Fur Mess

First, a sensory reality check: Faux fur sheds. When you trim it, it will look like a disaster. In the video, the presenter trims the head and fur flies everywhere. This is not a mistake; it is mechanics.

The "Messy" Baseline

• Visual Anchor: If you see raw fabric edges fraying, that is bad. If you just see loose fluff (pile) coming off while the backing stays intact, that is normal.
• Tactile Check: Run your fingers over the cut edge. It should feel stable, not unraveling.

The challenge with a holiauma machine or any industrial unit is that the presser foot is powerful. It can push thick pile around, causing layer shifting. Your job is to manage that bulk.

2. Pre-Flight: Stabilizer, Tools, and Machine Calibration

Before you press start on the torso or legs, you need to establish a "Safe Zone" for your machine settings. Faux fur is thick and creates high drag.

Manufacturer’s Sweet Spot (Calibration)

• Speed (SPM): Do not run at 1000 SPM. Drop your speed to 600–700 SPM.
  • Why? High speed creates heat (melting synthetic fur) and increases the chance of the foot getting tangled in the pile.
• Needle Choice: Use a 90/14 Titanium or Heavy Duty needle. Standard 75/11 needles may deflect, causing needle breaks or skipped stitches on the thick seams.
• Foot Height: If your machine allows, raise the presser foot height slightly (to roughly 2mm-2.5mm) so it glides over the fur rather than plowing through it.

Your Toolkit

1. Curved Embroidery Scissors: For getting under the presser foot.
2. Appliqué Scissors (Duckbill): Essential for trimming fur without cutting the base fabric.
3. Vacuum/Lint Roller: Keep the bobbin area clean. Fur dust kills rotary hooks.
   

Warning: The Finger Zone
Never put your fingers inside the moving pantograph area while the machine is running. When trimming appliqué or fur inside the hoop while it is attached to the machine, keep your non-cutting hand strictly on the frame of the hoop, not on the fabric near the needle bar. A DAHAO machine does not stop instantly.

3. Head Cleanup & The "Joint Gap"

The video begins with the completed head. The cleanup process here dictates whether the head will wobble later.

• Tear Away vs. Cut Away: For dense ITH animals, Cut Away stabilizer is the professional standard. It supports the seams during stuffing.
• The Trim: Cut close to the stitching, but leave 2–3mm of margin.
• The Joint Port: Locate the small opening left in the stitching (usually at the neck base). Do not stitch this shut.
  

4. Torso Construction: The "Cover the Line" Rule

This is the area where most alignment errors happen. The logic is: Placement Stitch → Tack Down → Final Seam.

The Physics of "Creep"

When the presser foot hits thick fur, it pushes the top layer properly. If your fabric is cut exactly to size, it will slide off the placement line.

• The Fix: Cut your fur pieces 0.5 to 1 inch larger than the placement line on all sides.
• Visual Check: When you place the backing fabric (Right Sides Together), you should not see any placement stitches. If you see stitches, the fabric will slip.
  

The Equipment Factor

If you are struggling to keep thick fur taut without "hoop burn" (the permanent ring left by standard hoops), this is a hardware limitation. Standard clamping rings struggle with varying thickness. This is where professional machine embroidery hoops—specifically magnetic ones—become a production asset. They clamp vertically, securing the fur without crushing the pile unevenly.

5. The "Stay Hooped" Trimming Protocol

After stitching the torso contour, the video demonstrates a critical habit: The hoop comes off the machine, but the fabric stays in the hoop.

1. Remove the hoop from the pantograph arm.
2. Place it flat on a table.
3. Trim the excess backing fabric close to the seam.
4. Do NOT pop the fabric out.

Why? The moment you unhoop, the stabilizer relaxes. You will never get it back into perfect registration for any final details or reinforcement stitches.

Warning: Magnetic Field Safety
If you upgrade to magnetic hoops to handle this thick fur, be aware: these magnets are industrial strength (often rated N52).
* Pinch Hazard: They can snap together with enough force to break a finger. Handle by the edges.
* Medical Devices: Keep them at least 6 inches away from pacemakers.
* Electronics: Do not place the magnetic brackets directly on the machine's control screen.

6. Diagnosis: DAHAO Error 13 ("Frame Beyond Limit")

The video highlights a common panic moment: Error 13.

• The Scenario: You press start, and the machine beeps, showing "Frame Beyond Limit."
• The Reality: The design is trying to travel outside the physical soft limits you set, or the hoop is too close to the edge of the pantograph's range.
• The Fix:
  1. Press EXIT (ESQ) to clear the alarm.
  2. Check your "Design Start Point" (usually center).
  3. Physically move the frame to the center of the hoop area using the manual arrows.
  4. Double-check that the design size actually fits inside the selected hoop.
     

7. Leg Construction: Rhythm and Batching

The leg process mirrors the torso: Placement → Top Fabric → Joint Reinforcement → Back Fabric → Final Seam.

The "No Tape" Friction Trick

Faux fur has high friction. The video notes you often don't need tape to hold the top later in place because the fur "grips" the stabilizer.

• Test Method: Place the fabric. Gently try to slide it side-to-side. If it resists, you can likely skip the tape (which saves time and gummed-up needles).
  
  
  

Production Checklist: Leg Phase

• Pile Direction: Ensure the fur "hair" runs down the leg. (Pet the fabric; smooth is down, rough is up).
• Fabric Orientation: If using patterned cotton for pads, ensure print is right-side up.
• Hoop Check: Ensure the hoop is locked tight.
• Bobbin: Check bobbin supply. Running out mid-leg seam is a nightmare to patch on ITH projects.

If you are batching 50 teddy bears, manual screw hoops will wreck your wrists. This is the volume triggering point where shops switch to magnetic embroidery hoops. The "snap-and-go" workflow reduces hooping time by ~40% and eliminates the wrist strain of tightening screws on thick layers.

8. Joint Surgery: Anatomy of the Snap

Hardware installation is permanent. Getting this wrong ruins the shell.

1. The Incision: Use a sharp seam ripper to open the Reinforcement Stitch holes.
2. Insertion Logic: The Stem goes through the fabric from the Inside (Right Side) to the Outside (Wrong Side/Stabilizer side).
3. The Stack: Fabric -> Stem protruding -> Washer.
   

9. The "Pliers Hack" for Safety Joints

Safety joints (plastic doll joints) are designed to be impossible for a child to remove. This means they are incredibly hard for you to install. Your thumbs are not enough.

The Tool Assisted Method

• The Problem: You push the washer, but it won't go down the ridges of the stem.
• The Solution: Use Rivet Pliers or a Nut Driver.
• The Auditory Cue: You must hear a sharp "CLICK".
  • No Click? It’s not seated. The limb will fall off later.
  • Mushy feeling? Fabric is caught in the washer. Remove and clear the path.
    
    
    

10. Turning & Stuffing: The Gap Strategy

The trim radius matters. Leave 0.5 inches (12mm) of fabric overlap at the "Turning Gap." If you trim this too short, the hole will fray when you try to close it with a ladder stitch later.

Stuffing Protocol

1. Turn: Turn the limb right side out. Use a chopstick or turning tool to push the seams fully open.
2. Stuff: Stuff firmly.
3. Check: Squeeze the limb. Does it dent easily? Stuff more.
4. Seal: Ladder stitch the opening.

Operational Checklist (The Stitch Cycle)

• Placement Step: Did it stitch completely?
• Material Placement: Did you cover the line by at least 0.5 inches?
• Speed: Is machine running <700 SPM?
• Sound Check: Listen for rhythmic "thump-thump." A sharp "clack" usually means the needle is hitting the needle plate or hook—STOP immediately.

If you use a snap hoop system, ensure the magnet force is sufficient for only one layer of fur plus stabilizer. If using very thick "Shaggy" fur, test a scrap first to ensure the magnets don't slide.

11. Decision Tree: Fabric vs. Hooping Strategy

Use this logical flow to determine your setup for future projects.

• Scenario A: Short Pile Minky / Fleece
  • Stabilizer: Medium Tear-Away is acceptable (if not stuffing rock-hard).
  • Hoop: Standard Screw Hoop or Magnetic Hoop.
  • Needle: 75/11 Ballpoint.
• Scenario B: Long Pile Faux Fur (The "Beast")
  • Stabilizer: Heavy Cut-Away (Must support the stretch).
  • Hoop: Magnetic Hoop highly recommended (Prevents "hoop burn" rings that ruin the fur texture).
  • Needle: 90/14 Titanium Sharp/Universal.
• Scenario C: Batting + Fabric (Quilted Bear)
  • Stabilizer: Mesh Cut-Away (to reduce bulk).
  • Hoop: Magnetic (Thickness varies).
  • Needle: 90/14.
    
    
    

12. Troubleshooting: The Quick-Fix Table

13. The Production Upgrade Path

If you successfully finished this bear, you’ve conquered one of the hardest materials in embroidery. But if you felt like you were fighting the machine, your tools might be the bottleneck.

• Level 1 (Technique): Use the right needles and speed limits (<700 SPM).
• Level 2 (Consistency): If you are tired of battling screw hoops that crush your fur or fail to hold tension, Magnetic Hoops are the industry solution. They treat delicate and thick piles gently while providing a "drum-tight" hold essential for ITH precision.
• Level 3 (Scale): If you are consistently making 20+ units, manual placement becomes slow. Tools like the hoop master embroidery hooping station help align shirts or standard backings, but for ITH toys, a consistent magnetic frame on a multi-needle machine is your best friend for speed.

Stuff that bear firmly, click those joints until they snap, and enjoy the result. You built this.

FAQ

• Q: What machine settings are a safe starting point for long-pile faux fur ITH teddy bear assembly on a DAHAO control multi-needle machine (such as Holiauma)?
  A: Use a slow speed, a stronger needle, and slightly more presser-foot clearance to prevent melting, tangles, and needle deflection.
  • Set speed to 600–700 SPM (avoid 1000 SPM on faux fur).
  • Install a 90/14 Titanium or Heavy Duty needle for thick seams and joint areas.
  • Raise presser foot height slightly (about 2.0–2.5 mm) if the machine allows.
  • Success check: The stitch cycle sounds rhythmic (“thump-thump”) without sharp “clack,” and the fur is not getting dragged into the needle path.
  • If it still fails… Stop and re-check for fur packed under the foot and lint in the hook/bobbin area before restarting.
• Q: How can an ITH faux fur project be trimmed and cleaned up without cutting base fabric when using duckbill appliqué scissors?
  A: Trim close to the seam while protecting the backing by using duckbill scissors and leaving a small seam margin.
  • Keep the duckbill “shoe” flat against the base fabric so the pile lifts while the backing stays protected.
  • Leave 2–3 mm margin outside the stitching when trimming around the head and seams.
  • Use a vacuum or lint roller to remove fur dust before it migrates into the bobbin/hook area.
  • Success check: The backing fabric edge feels stable (not unraveling), and only loose fluff comes off—not threads from the base.
  • If it still fails… Switch to curved embroidery scissors for tight areas under the presser foot and trim in smaller passes.
• Q: What is the correct fabric oversize rule to prevent placement-line creep on long-pile faux fur ITH torso construction?
  A: Cut faux fur pieces larger than the placement line so the fabric fully covers the stitches during tack-down and final seam.
  • Cut each fur piece 0.5–1 inch larger than the placement line on all sides.
  • Place fabric Right Sides Together and intentionally “cover the line” before stitching.
  • Reposition before the tack-down step if any placement stitches remain visible.
  • Success check: No placement stitches can be seen once the fabric is laid down; the piece does not slide off the line during stitching.
  • If it still fails… Slow the machine to the 600–700 SPM range and check for layer shifting caused by thick pile under the presser foot.
• Q: Why should an ITH teddy bear torso or leg piece stay hooped during trimming, instead of removing fabric from the hoop between steps?
  A: Keep the fabric in the hoop so stabilizer tension and registration do not relax and shift before later stitches.
  • Remove the hoop from the pantograph arm and place it flat on a table for trimming.
  • Trim the excess backing fabric close to the seam without popping the project out of the hoop.
  • Resume stitching only after re-mounting the same hooped piece back on the machine.
  • Success check: The next reinforcement/detail stitches land cleanly on top of the previous seam path with no offset.
  • If it still fails… Inspect whether the fabric was unhooped earlier; once registration is lost, re-aligning perfectly is often not repeatable.
• Q: How do you clear DAHAO Error 13 “Frame Beyond Limit” on a Holiauma-style multi-needle embroidery machine during ITH stitching?
  A: Clear the alarm, re-center the frame and start point, and confirm the design fits the selected hoop limits.
  • Press EXIT (ESQ) to clear the alarm.
  • Check the design start point (commonly center) and correct it if needed.
  • Use the manual arrows to physically move the frame to the center of the hoop travel area.
  • Verify the design size fits inside the hoop selected in the machine settings.
  • Success check: The machine starts without beeping and the frame travels without hitting a soft limit immediately.
  • If it still fails… Re-check that the correct hoop is selected and that the physical hoop position is not too close to the pantograph’s edge.
• Q: What does a sharp “clack” sound mean during faux fur ITH stitching on a DAHAO multi-needle machine, and what should the operator do immediately?
  A: Stop immediately—sharp “clack” often indicates needle contact with the needle plate or hook and can lead to breaks or damage.
  • Hit stop as soon as the sound changes from rhythmic “thump-thump” to a sharp impact noise.
  • Inspect the needle for bending/damage and replace with a 90/14 Titanium if stitching thick joints.
  • Confirm the project is not being pulled while stitching; let the hoop and feed motion do the work.
  • Success check: After correction, the machine runs with a steady rhythm and no impact sound during needle penetration.
  • If it still fails… Reduce speed to below 700 SPM and check presser-foot clearance so the foot glides over the pile instead of plowing into it.
• Q: What magnetic hoop safety rules should be followed when using industrial-strength magnetic embroidery hoops for thick faux fur ITH projects?
  A: Treat magnetic hoops as pinch-hazard tools and keep them away from medical devices and sensitive electronics.
  • Handle magnets by the edges and control the snap to prevent finger pinching.
  • Keep magnetic hoops at least 6 inches away from pacemakers.
  • Avoid placing magnetic brackets directly on the embroidery machine control screen.
  • Success check: The hoop clamps securely without sudden uncontrolled snapping, and the operator’s hands stay clear during closure.
  • If it still fails… Pause the workflow and reposition using a flat table surface; do not fight misaligned magnets near the needle area.