Table of Contents
Watch the video: “TROUBLESHOOTING BROTHER PE570” by the channel (not specified).
If your Brother PE570 suddenly starts showing bobbin thread on top, snaps a needle, or tangles mid-design, don’t panic. The fixes are quicker than you think—and they start with tension and a tidy bobbin. In this breakdown, we follow the exact steps from the tutorial to get your stitches back on track.
What you’ll learn
- How to recognize a top-thread tension problem before it ruins a motif
- How to seat the top spool with the correct end cap so thread feeds straight
- How to clean lint and fragments from the tension discs, the right way
- How to wind a tight, even bobbin using a simple netting sleeve trick
- When to stop bobbin winding manually to prevent loosening and staggering
Understanding Common Brother PE570 Embroidery Machine Issues The video opens with a clear tension example: the top thread is pink, the bobbin thread is white—and the white is peeking through on the top side. That means the top tension is too tight, so the bobbin thread is being pulled upward. It’s a classic symptom and a reliable clue to start your troubleshooting.
Quick check
- If you see bobbin color on top, your top tension is likely too tight.
- If you see top color on the underside, top tension may be too loose (not shown in the video; inference is not specified in the tutorial, so focus on the top-too-tight case demonstrated).
Pro tip Before touching the dial, trace your thread path. Many issues start with the spool itself: a mismatched end cap, a snag behind the spool pin, or a wrap around a nearby handle can impersonate a tension problem.
From the comments A viewer shared they broke a needle because the thread was set on the spool incorrectly—and switching to the setup shown in the video solved it. Another was surprised that a “spongy” bobbin was the culprit; after tightening their winding, they reported smooth results.
Optimizing Top Thread Setup for Smooth Operation Diagnosing Top Thread Tension Problems In the example, the upper tension is too tight. But rather than immediately dialing back tension, the creator zooms in on the top thread supply. A small, tapered spool paired with the smallest end cap can let thread jump backward, catching between the spool and pin or wrapping a nearby handle. That hidden drag behaves like over-tension.
Why Needles Break and Thread Snaps Unexpected drag at the spool can yank the top thread suddenly, leading to breakage—or, if the needle meets extra resistance repeatedly, it can snap. The fix: make the path from spool to first guide perfectly straight and unobstructed. The end cap should match the widest part of the spool, not the narrow tail end.
Choosing the Right Spool End Cap
- Remove any end cap that’s too small for the spool’s full diameter.
- Select the larger cap that matches the spool’s widest point.
- Seat the cap and spool together so the thread feeds directly to the first guide without rubbing the pin, rim, or a handle.
- Tug the thread gently—feed should be smooth, steady, and straight.
Preventing Thread from Getting Caught After reseating, the thread should release straight off the spool. In the tutorial, the creator pushes the cap and spool down together to “capture” the thread line, then checks that the path runs cleanly to the first guide. That single tweak prevents the hidden snags that masquerade as tension trouble.
Watch out Tiny, tapered spools make it easy to lose the thread tail. Keep it secured under the cap edge while you set the spool, then thread the guide.
Maintaining Your Machine's Tension System Cleaning the Tension Discs Effectively If you’ve matched the end cap and your thread path is straight but nothing changes, shift your focus to the tension discs and presser foot. When the presser foot is up, the discs are open; when the foot is down, they engage and apply tension. Lint or a fragment of broken thread can wedge in the groove and lock in more tension than the dial setting.
Here’s how the tutorial handles it:
- Lift the presser foot: the discs open.
- Use canned/compressed air with the fine nozzle to blow out the groove.
- Lower the presser foot: the discs engage—and blow it out again.
- Repeat once more with the foot raised to clear both positions.
Why this matters: On an embroidery machine, thread feeds fast for long stretches, and tiny debris accumulates quickly. Even a clean-looking path can hide lint in the disc. Clearing it often brings the tension dial “back to life,” so your adjustments actually take effect.
Quick check Raise and lower the presser foot while watching the discs. You should see movement as they open and close. If the thread still feels clamped with the foot up, debris may be lodged inside.
Mastering Bobbin Winding for Perfect Stitches Identifying a Poorly Wound Bobbin The video compares two bobbins: one compresses when poked with scissors—it’s spongy. The other won’t budge: it’s tight. Sponginess is subtle to the eye but obvious to the touch, and it’s a prime trigger for tension complaints once the machine runs at speed.
Other visual clues shown in the tutorial:
- Small ripples or dents on the bobbin surface
- Occasional loops sticking out
- Lumps that make the profile look uneven rather than a tidy column
All of these increase the chance the thread snags on itself or gets pulled into the bobbin’s center as it unwinds.
The Netting Trick for Tight Bobbins On some spools, thread “falls off” too easily during winding. The creator solves this by sliding a small mesh/net sleeve over the spool. The net gently hugs the thread, keeping feed consistent so the winding tension stays firm.
Step-by-Step Bobbin Winding Follow the exact sequence demonstrated in the video: 1) Add netting if the thread falls off the spool too freely. 2) Thread the machine along the dotted-line path for bobbin winding. Snap the thread securely into the winding tension disc—you should feel it “catch.”
3) Prep the bobbin from the center: pull the thread from the middle of the bobbin up through the top hole (the creator prefers this over simply wrapping the bobbin, which they say does not wind as well). Seat the bobbin on the winder pin and click it over to engage. The start/stop button turns orange to indicate winding mode.
4) Hold the thread up and out while you start the winder for 3–4 seconds. This locks in a tight base layer. Then stop briefly and snip the tail as close to the bobbin as possible to secure it.
5) Resume winding and watch the fill. The winder stops spinning the bobbin when it’s full, but the machine motor keeps running. As soon as the winding begins to stagger, stop the machine manually. This prevents loosening and preserves that tight, even pack.
The result is unmistakable: the finished bobbin is firm, smooth, and won’t compress when pressed with scissors. That’s your green light to embroider.
Pro tip If you ever doubt a bobbin, test it. Lightly tap with scissors—if it springs or dents, rewind it. That 10-second test can save a design.
Watch out Do not leave the bobbin winding unattended. Even though the winder disengages when full, the machine doesn’t stop by itself. The moment you see stagger in the wind, press stop.
Quick Fixes for Common Embroidery Malfunctions
- Bobbin thread visible on top: Re-seat the top spool with the correct cap, clear the path, clean tension discs, then fine-tune the tension dial as needed (the tutorial demonstrates loosening top tension when bobbin thread pulls up).
- Needle breaking or thread snapping: Check for hidden snags at the spool and path first; then clear the tension discs. Only after those checks should you adjust the dial, since debris can “lock in” tension regardless of the setting.
- Thread jam mid-design: Inspect bobbin winding quality. Spongy or lumpy winds are frequent causes of sudden tightness.
From the comments
- A viewer reported breaking a needle due to incorrect spool setup; following the tutorial’s end-cap and path guidance fixed it.
- Another thanked the creator for showing the “spongy bobbin” test—recognizing and fixing it “changed everything.”
- Someone asked for a part 4; the creator confirmed more is coming and welcomed questions.
- A separate thread discussed machine choice: one reply emphasized that an embroidery machine is a specialty tool, recommending regular sewing on a separate unit.
When to Seek Professional Service The creator notes that new machines rarely have deep debris issues, but time and use add up. A yearly professional service for cleaning and oiling can keep things smooth—especially if you bought used or embroider frequently. Between services, clearing the tension discs and minding spool setup and bobbin quality will address the majority of day-to-day issues.
FAQ highlights (from the video) Q: Why is my machine breaking needles or thread? A: Often it’s tension or path related. Confirm the spool is capped correctly and the thread path is clear. Clean the tension discs; then make small dial adjustments if needed.
Q: How can I prevent bobbin thread from appearing on top? A: That’s a sign the top tension is too tight in the demonstrated case. Ensure the spool feeds straight (correct end cap), clean the tension discs, and use a tightly wound bobbin.
Q: What’s the best way to wind a tight bobbin? A: Use a net on slippery spools, snap into the bobbin winding tension disc, pull thread from the bobbin center through the top hole, hold slight upward tension for a few seconds at start, cut the tail close, then monitor and stop at the first sign of staggering.
Further exploration If you’re building out your toolkit, you might research hoop options and accessories for your setup. While this video focuses on tension and bobbins rather than accessories, many readers compare frame choices when dialing in their machines. For example, some sewists eventually explore magnetic embroidery hoops for brother or a specific brother magnetic hoop when stabilizing tricky fabrics, though the tutorial does not cover hooping. Others keep notes on which brother embroidery hoops pair best with stabilizers for a given project size. If you’re running a compact design, you may be considering a standard frame like a brother 5x7 hoop; for larger motifs, size up accordingly. The broader family of the brother embroidery machine ecosystem also spans combo units; if you do both crafts regularly, you might evaluate a brother sewing and embroidery machine—though as one commenter discussion suggested, many prefer separate units for longevity. If you shop accessories by name, you’ll sometimes see shorthand like a brother hoop referenced in supply lists; match your specific model before purchasing.
Watch out The video does not cover hooping techniques, stabilizer selection, or specific hoop models. If you’re evaluating accessories, verify compatibility with your exact machine model before buying.
Wrap-up Most “mystery” stitch issues boil down to three habits shown here:
- Seat the top spool correctly with the right end cap so thread feeds straight.
- Keep the tension discs clean—and verify they open with the presser foot up.
- Wind a firm, even bobbin and stop the winder as soon as it staggers.
Do those, and your PE570 will sound smoother, stitch cleaner, and leave you free to focus on thread color and design choices—not emergency unpicks.