Table of Contents
Watch the video: “Make an Embroidery Holder for Ballcaps” by Dennis (implied)
If you’ve ever tried to embroider a baseball cap on a standard machine, you know the struggle: the bill won’t sit flat, the sweatband is in the way, and your hoop doesn’t quite secure the curve. This DIY plywood holder solves that problem by creating a snug, hoop-fitting platform with adjustable clamps for the bill and sides—so your design can sit exactly where you want it.
What you’ll learn
- How to trace, cut, and sand a plywood insert that fits tightly inside your embroidery hoop
- How to mark and cut a central opening to give the needle unobstructed access
- How to make an adjustable bill clamp from the inner cutout and a pivoting side clamp from scrap
- How to drill, countersink, and assemble screws and wing nuts so clamps are secure but easy to adjust
Introduction: Elevate Your Cap Embroidery Game A standard hoop alone isn’t enough for clean cap embroidery. This project adds a custom plywood “holder” that drops into your hoop, flattens the bill, and keeps the cap stable while you stitch. The result is a practical jig that adapts your current setup without specialty attachments.
Why a Custom Cap Holder? Baseball caps are three-dimensional and resist the flat sandwich a hoop needs. A fitted wood insert gives you the stability and geometry a hat demands: the bill is clamped flat, the crown has clearance, and the sides can be secured with a secondary clamp for side placements. If you’re using a common home machine, this jig is a smart bridge between everyday tools and cap-ready control. In contexts where folks use aftermarket cap frames or specialty hoops, this handmade option can be a budget-friendly alternative to a purpose-built hat hoop for brother embroidery machine.
What You'll Learn to Build In about the time it takes to set up your saws and sanders, you’ll shape a snug plywood base that nests into your hoop, then cut a large inner opening for needle clearance. You’ll repurpose the inner cutout into an adjustable bill clamp and add a small pivotable side clamp for side embroidery. The only hardware you need: 8x3/4" oval head machine screws and 8-32 wing nuts.
Gathering Your Tools & Materials Essential Woodworking Tools
- Scroll saw for tight control on curves and inside cuts
- Belt sander for smoothing and adjusting fit
- Drill and countersink bit for clean, flush hardware installation
- Tape measure and pencil for precise layout
- A fender washer to radius the corners of the inner opening
Plywood and Hardware You'll Need
- 1/4" plywood for the holder and clamps
- 8x3/4" oval head machine screws and 8-32 wing nuts
- Optional epoxy to secure screw heads from the underside
Safety note: Wear safety glasses and use power tools with care. The video cautions to exercise caution with the scroll saw, belt sander, and drill.
Step-by-Step Construction of the Base Tracing and Cutting the Outer Shape Start by tracing the inside of your embroidery hoop onto a piece of 1/4" plywood. Cut slightly outside your pencil line on the scroll saw so you can sand to a snug fit.
Follow the line carefully on the scroll saw. Keep hands clear and let the blade do the work; smooth, continuous motion helps prevent chatter and keeps your edge square.
For tight curves, slow down and pivot in place as needed to maintain the exact profile. Precision here makes fitting easier later.
Achieving the Perfect Fit Move to the belt sander to refine the shape. Sand evenly along the edge until the plywood slips into the hoop with light pressure.
Test-fit often. The goal is tight in both orientations without wobble. If it’s too tight in one corner, mark the high spot with pencil, sand that zone, and try again.
Repeat small passes and checks until the base sits fully and doesn’t slip or chatter. Don’t rush—one or two extra test-fits beat re-cutting an entire base.
Quick check: The base should fit tightly in the hoop both horizontally and vertically, with no gaps or rocking.
Creating the Embroidery Opening Marking and Drilling for Precision With the base seated perfectly, lay out the inner opening. In the video, the maker measures 1.5" from one end, 1" in from each side, and 6.25" from the other end—resulting in an opening roughly 4.75" long within the frame, leaving strong margins for the clamps.
To keep corners smooth and fabric-friendly, trace a fender washer to radius each corner. This prevents sharp inside corners that can snag or weaken the frame.
Drill a pilot hole within the marked rectangle. This hole is your entry point for the scroll saw blade so you can cut the inside without breaking the outer frame.
Scroll Saw Techniques for Inner Cuts Thread the blade through the pilot hole and cut the inner opening along your lines, taking special care in the radiused corners. A deliberate, steady feed helps preserve a clean edge.
Watch out: Over-cutting the inner opening can weaken the frame. If you overshoot, you may need to remake the base for structural integrity.
Pro tip: Keep the inner offcut—you’ll turn it into your bill clamp next. Its curvature and thickness will already match the base.
Crafting and Installing the Clamps Designing the Bill and Side Clamps Take the saved inner piece and cut it down to form the bill clamp. Square up edges and round over any corners that touch fabric. Sand it smooth so it won’t mark or catch the cap.
Next, shape a smaller, rounded clamp from scrap plywood for side placements. This piece will mount with a single screw so it can pivot and adapt to different cap shapes.
From the comments: Several viewers asked to see a cap installed on the finished jig. The creator plans a follow-up video showing the holder in use and additional reference photos.
Drilling, Countersinking, and Assembly With the bill clamp positioned, mark two screw locations about 1" from the end and 1" from each side to distribute clamping pressure. Lay out a single pivot hole for the side clamp.
Drill pilot holes through the base at your marks. On the backside of the base, countersink these holes so the screw heads sit flush and won’t scratch your machine bed or catch fabric.
Insert 8x3/4" oval head machine screws from the back through the countersunk holes. The flush fit is important for a smooth underside.
Place the bill clamp over the protruding screws and secure it with 8-32 wing nuts. For the side clamp, install a single screw and wing nut so the small clamp can pivot. Both clamps should move freely when loosened and lock firmly when tightened.
Quick check: When tightened, the bill clamp should hold the cap’s bill flat, and the side clamp should pivot to secure side panels without crushing seams.
Final Touches and Customization Securing Your Hardware for Longevity To keep screws from falling out when you remove the wing nuts, add a small dab of epoxy to the screw heads on the underside of the base. Apply sparingly and avoid the threads. This small step makes assembly and adjustments easier down the road.
Using Your New Cap Embroidery Holder Mount the plywood base in your hoop, position the cap bill under the clamp, and snug the wing nuts until the bill lies flat. Pivot the side clamp as needed for side placements. The video does not show the holder in use on a machine, but the creator notes a follow-up video is planned to demonstrate mounting and stitching.
Watch out: If tightening the bill clamp pulls the sweatband into the stitch area, loosen, reposition the bill further under the clamp, and retighten gradually—balance the placement so the design area clears the frame.
From the comments: Answers and tips
- “Is there a video of how to use it?” The creator is working on an updated video to show the jig in action.
- “Did it actually work?” Yes—according to the creator, it works very well. He plans to show usage in the revised video for clarity.
- “Do you have photos with a hat in the hoop?” Not in the original video; the creator plans to add photos and a usage demo.
- “Do you sell the hat hoop for a specific machine?” The creator says he doesn’t sell a hat hoop for the Brother PE 770.
- “We made one but it won’t tighten enough on our caps.” The creator suggests a larger center opening may help—more clearance can let the cap sit better and keep the sweatband out of the stitch field.
Troubleshooting: Fit and Clamping Pressure
- Base too loose in the hoop: The video advises starting over with a fresh base; once you’ve over-sanded, it’s hard to restore tightness.
- Edges snag fabric: Sand more thoroughly—especially around the inner opening and clamp faces.
- Bill clamp doesn’t hold: Revisit screw spacing and clamp size. Even, well-spaced screws (about 1" from the edges) help distribute force.
- Side clamp awkward: Reshape the small clamp so its curve matches your cap better. A single pivot screw lets you tune the angle.
Customization Ideas (within project scope)
- Slightly larger inner window: As suggested in the comments, opening up the center can help with thicker caps and keeping the sweatband clear. Keep margins strong so the frame stays rigid.
- Mark centerlines: Pencil marks on the base can help you align designs consistently. These aren’t shown in the video, but simple layout lines are easy to add without altering the jig.
Compatibility notes and expectations This project is designed to work with a standard hoop and a typical home embroidery setup. The video mentions a Brother machine generally but doesn’t specify a model. If you normally rely on brand-specific accessories (like commercial cap frames or add-on hoops), this jig offers a handmade alternative and a way to practice placements before investing in dedicated gear for your brother embroidery machine.
If you already use commercial cap frames or magnet-based systems, this jig can complement your workflow. Some readers exploring cap options compare DIY solutions like this with branded accessories such as a brother cap hoop or third-party frames. Choose the route that suits your machine and project volume; the video’s jig focuses on straightforward materials and accessible tools.
Skill and time The build is intermediate: you’ll need basic scroll saw, sanding, and drilling skills. The video runs about 10 minutes and does not break down exact build time, but most of the effort is in careful fitting and clean inside cuts. Take your time on the layout and sanding—the snug fit and smooth edges are what make the jig shine.
Care and maintenance
- Check the epoxy bond on screw heads occasionally; reapply sparingly if needed.
- If a clamp face roughens with use, a quick pass on the sander keeps fabric-safe contact.
- Keep the underside free of protrusions—flush screw heads protect your machine bed.
Alternatives and when to consider them Some crafters use purpose-built cap frames or upgrade to brand-specific hat hoops. If you often embroider hats and want brand-native tooling, you may explore options marketed for caps, such as a brother embroidery hoops set that includes cap-friendly frames or a dedicated brother magnetic hoop for flat projects. The video doesn’t compare performance; it simply demonstrates an effective DIY path with plywood, screws, and wing nuts.
If you’re researching add-ons beyond DIY, keep in mind that commenters referenced commercial frames (for example, someone mentioned Durkee products) as a potential investment for frequent cap jobs. This guide, however, stays with the DIY holder shown in the video.
Watch out: The video doesn’t specify machine clearances beyond the inner opening. Always verify that your presser foot, needle bar, and hoop arm have unobstructed movement with your cap installed.
Workflow recap (at a glance) 1) Trace the inner hoop shape on 1/4" plywood. 2) Cut slightly outside the line on the scroll saw. 3) Sand to a snug, two-way fit. 4) Mark the inner window (1.5" from one end, 1" from sides, 6.25" from the other end), round the corners with a fender washer. 5) Drill a pilot hole and scroll-saw the inner opening. 6) Turn the inner offcut into the bill clamp; make a separate small side clamp from scrap; sand both smooth. 7) Lay out and drill pilot holes for the bill clamp; countersink from the back; add a pivot hole for the side clamp. 8) Assemble with 8x3/4" screws and 8-32 wing nuts. 9) Optional: epoxy dab on screw heads underneath to keep them from dropping out.
FAQ (based on the video and what’s shown)
- What plywood thickness works? The video uses 1/4" plywood for a balance of strength and easy cutting.
- Can I adapt for different caps? Yes—wing nuts and the pivoting side clamp allow flexibility for various styles and sizes.
- Do I need a scroll saw? It’s ideal for the internal cut and curves. A jigsaw might work but would likely need more sanding.
- Why epoxy the screw heads? To keep screws from falling out when you remove wing nuts during setup.
- Can I embroider the side of a cap? Yes—the design includes a pivotable side clamp specifically for that.
Where this fits in your toolkit This jig is a reliable partner for occasional cap jobs and learning runs. It gives you a stable, repeatable way to position hats and test designs without purchasing specialized brand frames. If you later move to dedicated cap attachments, the skills and layout habits you build here will transfer. For those exploring magnetic options on various brands, start by understanding your machine’s hoop field and clearances—DIY holders like this can help you evaluate placements before shopping for magnetic hoops for brother embroidery machines.
If your workflow expands, you might explore branded cap frames or magnet-based solutions for higher throughput. Even then, a compact plywood jig earns its keep as a setup aid or backup tool—especially when you need custom pressure points or a slightly different window size to accommodate a tricky crown seam.
Conclusion: Personalize Your Headwear With a single sheet of 1/4" plywood, a scroll saw, and a few wing nuts, you can build a cap embroidery holder that plays nicely with the hoops you already own. It’s adjustable, fabric-safe when sanded smooth, and purpose-built for flat, stable stitching across the bill and sides. The maker plans to show the jig in use on a machine in a follow-up—until then, your build steps here mirror the video closely so you can make one with confidence and start dialing in your cap placements on a brother embroidery machine.
From the comments: A final note of encouragement Viewers praised the cross-over of woodworking and needlecraft and asked for a usage demo with a cap installed. The creator acknowledges this and plans to remake the video with in-use footage and photos. One viewer mentioned difficulty clamping; the suggested tweak is a slightly larger inner window to give the crown and sweatband more room. If your caps are especially stiff or thick, that small change can be the difference between fighting the sweatband and stitching with a clean, open field. For those considering commercial options down the road, you can also research cap accessories such as a brother cap hoop or broader categories like embroidery machine hoops to compare approaches.